Mibo A-10 Gen 5 build thread.
02-18-2015, 04:17 PM
#201
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LOL
I guess Oli don't have to much faith in JetCat turbines
I put heat blankets on top on my nacelles, just I'm case of a Hot Start.
its light & cheap insurance. I running jetcats. LOL
thanks
robert
I guess Oli don't have to much faith in JetCat turbines
I put heat blankets on top on my nacelles, just I'm case of a Hot Start.
its light & cheap insurance. I running jetcats. LOL
thanks
robert
02-22-2015, 07:56 PM
#203
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Well got a bit work done on the A-10 in the last few days. The raceways are done for the wings and are working very well. Extensions are run in the raceways for the flaps, ailerons, gear, brakes and lighting. Ailerons and flaps are dead headed at the wing roots until the power bus adapters arrive.
Worked on the nose gear and nose gear door as far as installing servos for steering and gear door operations. This was the first time I tried hooking up my gear and the door up to the Powerbox Royal SRS sequencer function. Got to admit that was easiest sequencer I have ever installed. A few brief programing selections and it was done. Timing and durations were perfect just on the default settings. I am not exactly sure which servo was planned for the gear door, but it wasn't for a standard size servo, so I used a 3421 that I think will do the job well.
So I thought that the next things I would work on is getting the nacelles ready to accept the RX 140's. I popped out the sliding motor mount and prepped the exhaust tube and drilled out the bell mouth tabs to mount to the rear portion of the engine exhaust housing. It seemed to line up fairly well. Haven't glued in the support ring inside housing yet. Still trying to make sure the ring lines up the tube to be all centered inside the housing. So next part will be lining up the engine thrust line with that of the exhaust tube.
Any of the fellows that are running the 140's did you have to use extended electrical conductors or could you use stock wiring so that you could place the ECU's in an accessible position on the component deck?
Some more questions about planning ahead for that part of the installation. So on the inboard slat install. How does that work? Do the slats sit on to of the brackets that are included in the slat kit? Also there is a bit of gap on the wing tip side, where I take it is called a wing fence, is mounted. Do you fill that in somewhat from that wing tip side and move the fence in closer to the root side by an 1/8 to 3/16"? Also how much clearance looks best between the root side of the slat and the wing root?
Oh and Dave I did a little dry fitting of the Jet Tech 300 ounce tank today and it fits perfectly in hatch compartment again, so if you want use that one, it is still an option that is open. I will going with this tank.
Alan
Worked on the nose gear and nose gear door as far as installing servos for steering and gear door operations. This was the first time I tried hooking up my gear and the door up to the Powerbox Royal SRS sequencer function. Got to admit that was easiest sequencer I have ever installed. A few brief programing selections and it was done. Timing and durations were perfect just on the default settings. I am not exactly sure which servo was planned for the gear door, but it wasn't for a standard size servo, so I used a 3421 that I think will do the job well.
So I thought that the next things I would work on is getting the nacelles ready to accept the RX 140's. I popped out the sliding motor mount and prepped the exhaust tube and drilled out the bell mouth tabs to mount to the rear portion of the engine exhaust housing. It seemed to line up fairly well. Haven't glued in the support ring inside housing yet. Still trying to make sure the ring lines up the tube to be all centered inside the housing. So next part will be lining up the engine thrust line with that of the exhaust tube.
Any of the fellows that are running the 140's did you have to use extended electrical conductors or could you use stock wiring so that you could place the ECU's in an accessible position on the component deck?
Some more questions about planning ahead for that part of the installation. So on the inboard slat install. How does that work? Do the slats sit on to of the brackets that are included in the slat kit? Also there is a bit of gap on the wing tip side, where I take it is called a wing fence, is mounted. Do you fill that in somewhat from that wing tip side and move the fence in closer to the root side by an 1/8 to 3/16"? Also how much clearance looks best between the root side of the slat and the wing root?
Oh and Dave I did a little dry fitting of the Jet Tech 300 ounce tank today and it fits perfectly in hatch compartment again, so if you want use that one, it is still an option that is open. I will going with this tank.
Alan
Last edited by AKB; 02-22-2015 at 08:44 PM.
02-23-2015, 05:53 AM
#204
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Well got a bit work done on the A-10 in the last few days. The raceways are done for the wings and are working very well. Extensions are run in the raceways for the flaps, ailerons, gear, brakes and lighting. Ailerons and flaps are dead headed at the wing roots until the power bus adapters arrive.
Worked on the nose gear and nose gear door as far as installing servos for steering and gear door operations. This was the first time I tried hooking up my gear and the door up to the Powerbox Royal SRS sequencer function. Got to admit that was easiest sequencer I have ever installed. A few brief programing selections and it was done. Timing and durations were perfect just on the default settings. I am not exactly sure which servo was planned for the gear door, but it wasn't for a standard size servo, so I used a 3421 that I think will do the job well.
So I thought that the next things I would work on is getting the nacelles ready to accept the RX 140's. I popped out the sliding motor mount and prepped the exhaust tube and drilled out the bell mouth tabs to mount to the rear portion of the engine exhaust housing. It seemed to line up fairly well. Haven't glued in the support ring inside housing yet. Still trying to make sure the ring lines up the tube to be all centered inside the housing. So next part will be lining up the engine thrust line with that of the exhaust tube.
Any of the fellows that are running the 140's did you have to use extended electrical conductors or could you use stock wiring so that you could place the ECU's in an accessible position on the component deck?
Some more questions about planning ahead for that part of the installation. So on the inboard slat install. How does that work? Do the slats sit on to of the brackets that are included in the slat kit? Also there is a bit of gap on the wing tip side, where I take it is called a wing fence, is mounted. Do you fill that in somewhat from that wing tip side and move the fence in closer to the root side by an 1/8 to 3/16"? Also how much clearance looks best between the root side of the slat and the wing root?
Alan, I prepped the slat with the two cuts on the back and the two green FRP mounts/side. This will align the slat pretty well. The fence just gets stuck on the inboard side of the slat cutout in the wing.
Oh and Dave I did a little dry fitting of the Jet Tech 300 ounce tank today and it fits perfectly in hatch compartment again, so if you want use that one, it is still an option that is open. I will going with this tank.
Alan
Worked on the nose gear and nose gear door as far as installing servos for steering and gear door operations. This was the first time I tried hooking up my gear and the door up to the Powerbox Royal SRS sequencer function. Got to admit that was easiest sequencer I have ever installed. A few brief programing selections and it was done. Timing and durations were perfect just on the default settings. I am not exactly sure which servo was planned for the gear door, but it wasn't for a standard size servo, so I used a 3421 that I think will do the job well.
So I thought that the next things I would work on is getting the nacelles ready to accept the RX 140's. I popped out the sliding motor mount and prepped the exhaust tube and drilled out the bell mouth tabs to mount to the rear portion of the engine exhaust housing. It seemed to line up fairly well. Haven't glued in the support ring inside housing yet. Still trying to make sure the ring lines up the tube to be all centered inside the housing. So next part will be lining up the engine thrust line with that of the exhaust tube.
Any of the fellows that are running the 140's did you have to use extended electrical conductors or could you use stock wiring so that you could place the ECU's in an accessible position on the component deck?
Some more questions about planning ahead for that part of the installation. So on the inboard slat install. How does that work? Do the slats sit on to of the brackets that are included in the slat kit? Also there is a bit of gap on the wing tip side, where I take it is called a wing fence, is mounted. Do you fill that in somewhat from that wing tip side and move the fence in closer to the root side by an 1/8 to 3/16"? Also how much clearance looks best between the root side of the slat and the wing root?
Alan, I prepped the slat with the two cuts on the back and the two green FRP mounts/side. This will align the slat pretty well. The fence just gets stuck on the inboard side of the slat cutout in the wing.
Oh and Dave I did a little dry fitting of the Jet Tech 300 ounce tank today and it fits perfectly in hatch compartment again, so if you want use that one, it is still an option that is open. I will going with this tank.
Alan
I added to the slat paragraph.
Dave
02-23-2015, 06:14 AM
#205
I had an incident with my A10 with jetcat 140RX. There was a huge fire on start up and I almost lost one nacelle. I would surely recommend using the BVM heat shield in both the nacelle as insurance. The plane has been repaired since this, and Im still running 140RX...but I will surely look to replace them soon. They don't instill confidence anymore...
02-23-2015, 07:46 AM
#206
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I had an incident with my A10 with jetcat 140RX. There was a huge fire on start up and I almost lost one nacelle. I would surely recommend using the BVM heat shield in both the nacelle as insurance. The plane has been repaired since this, and Im still running 140RX...but I will surely look to replace them soon. They don't instill confidence anymore...
Very sorry to see what the fire did. Hot start after effects are never good outcomes. Good reason for heat shielding for sure. I hope your next flights are more successful.
02-24-2015, 05:12 AM
#208
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Ouch,
Sorry to see that, good thing u used the heat blankets.
Especially when your running JetCats.
The Behotec turbines Oli recommend don't seem like a bad idea now.
Hopefully they will get u some parts quickly, lots of big jet rally's coming up soon.
Good luck
Robert
Sorry to see that, good thing u used the heat blankets.
Especially when your running JetCats.
The Behotec turbines Oli recommend don't seem like a bad idea now.
Hopefully they will get u some parts quickly, lots of big jet rally's coming up soon.
Good luck
Robert
02-24-2015, 08:22 AM
#209
Thread Starter
02-24-2015, 10:10 AM
#210
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All day flying at Scobee sounds great.
But will have to pass on Dinner, thanks for the offer.
March 14th, National Steak n BJ night
I look forward to that, with the wify once a year.
Hope to see ya that Saturday. I gave Shannon a heads up. He in also weather permitting.
Thanks
Robert
03-17-2015, 07:48 PM
#214
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HI There fellow Hog Flyers
Haven't got an awful done lately. Managed to glue the fuselage fillets over the wings and the wing cover divot points. (sorry I don't know their proper technical name for it) I have also received the Power Bus adapters and splitter and they work very well. Definitely gets rid of a lot wire extensions with one power cable through out.
So I have question for those that have installed the small former ring that goes into exhaust cone and between the exhaust tube at the back. How well did you find it centered the exhaust tube in the cone? I know that the laser cut out in the ring is graduated to allow for the angle of the tube and the cone. Does the ring center the tube better closer to the back of the cone or more to the middle? Or is the tube not necessarily centered that well and only just make sure that it doesn't touch the side wall of the cone, so it doesn't burn or scorch the cone?
Thanks for your help.
Alan
Haven't got an awful done lately. Managed to glue the fuselage fillets over the wings and the wing cover divot points. (sorry I don't know their proper technical name for it) I have also received the Power Bus adapters and splitter and they work very well. Definitely gets rid of a lot wire extensions with one power cable through out.
So I have question for those that have installed the small former ring that goes into exhaust cone and between the exhaust tube at the back. How well did you find it centered the exhaust tube in the cone? I know that the laser cut out in the ring is graduated to allow for the angle of the tube and the cone. Does the ring center the tube better closer to the back of the cone or more to the middle? Or is the tube not necessarily centered that well and only just make sure that it doesn't touch the side wall of the cone, so it doesn't burn or scorch the cone?
Thanks for your help.
Alan
03-22-2015, 05:27 PM
#215
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Well the last question didn't get anywhere let's try another.
Those that have installed Jetcat 140's where did you install your ECU's. I was talking to John Redman not too long ago and I talked about making up a new longer electrical lead from the engine to the ECU. He didn't sound like this would be very wise and if anything said he rather see making the ribbon conductor longer from the ECU to the new style of I/O board. If this were done the length of the existing twisted conductor will just make it back to about 1/2 way through the back hatch. Even though this new ECU is smaller than the old ones, all you could do is put it beside the large J Tech tank, barely.
How have other's done this? Make a shelf behind the former of the rear of the hatch? What a pain to have to install or to get back to when access is required to the ECU.
Some help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Alan
Those that have installed Jetcat 140's where did you install your ECU's. I was talking to John Redman not too long ago and I talked about making up a new longer electrical lead from the engine to the ECU. He didn't sound like this would be very wise and if anything said he rather see making the ribbon conductor longer from the ECU to the new style of I/O board. If this were done the length of the existing twisted conductor will just make it back to about 1/2 way through the back hatch. Even though this new ECU is smaller than the old ones, all you could do is put it beside the large J Tech tank, barely.
How have other's done this? Make a shelf behind the former of the rear of the hatch? What a pain to have to install or to get back to when access is required to the ECU.
Some help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Alan
03-22-2015, 05:33 PM
#216
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As of last Friday Jetcat has engine harness up to 36 inches. I made 24 inch long pump cables for The rx series without a problem and have them in my A10. I would advise that you do have your pumps checked for the latest version software. Contract Redman for the longer engine harness, these are made in Germany. My ecus are behind the tanks now, with the longer harness they could be in front of the tanks.
Don
Don
03-22-2015, 06:41 PM
#218
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Yes, the yellow plug set is what we are talking about. I tried to find out who makes the connector for the ribbon cables but no luck. Powerbox uses the same brand on there ribbon cables so they must be European. Ask Redman if Marcus at Jetcat has reconsidered and is also making longer ribbon cables as well as the engine harness. I forgot to ask John when I spoke to him last week about the ribbon cables. I used heavier wire and made my own longer cables because its simple enough.
Last edited by Jetkopter; 03-22-2015 at 06:44 PM.
02-14-2016, 12:43 PM
#221
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Hi Oli,
I just trimmed mine on the sander. They fit well but I also notcied they are a bit thick, they are not flush with the wing. So now I can only sand the peel ply/what looks like black cloth/CF?
I am hoping it wont weaken the whole hatch but am not sure how else I can get them flush.
Any other ideas?
Thanks
DD
02-15-2016, 12:45 AM
#222
Thread Starter
Hi Oli,
I just trimmed mine on the sander. They fit well but I also notcied they are a bit thick, they are not flush with the wing. So now I can only sand the peel ply/what looks like black cloth/CF?
I am hoping it wont weaken the whole hatch but am not sure how else I can get them flush.
Any other ideas?
Thanks
DD
I just trimmed mine on the sander. They fit well but I also notcied they are a bit thick, they are not flush with the wing. So now I can only sand the peel ply/what looks like black cloth/CF?
I am hoping it wont weaken the whole hatch but am not sure how else I can get them flush.
Any other ideas?
Thanks
DD
figured it might be best to not touch it. Will work with it the best I can during finishing.
02-21-2016, 07:32 PM
#224
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Hi guys,
Working on mine again. Almost down with the wings, I installed all of Oli's 8711 mounts, they were easy and it was nice to pre drill and screw them to the hatch and then glue them in place with the screw as a clamp. The rudder servo area is tight, I used an Emcotec 8711 wood mount there.
I also added some epoxy with CF tape over the exposed edges of the tank saddles, they seemed frail to support the tanks. They are more rigid now.
I did switch mine all back to 4-40 so had some pushrod work to do.
Anyway, as I went back to consider the main gear, I could not remember ( think it is aft..) but the plywood plate for the gear mount is an AFT shim (goes under the aft end of the gear mount?) right?
Also wondering if anyone has installed the latest light set from OLi/MIBO ? I wanted to see what they look like.
Will be getting the wings on soon for some fuse fitting. Waiting for the pitot tube to go along with my Jeti airspeed module for the right wingtip.
Thanks, Dave
Working on mine again. Almost down with the wings, I installed all of Oli's 8711 mounts, they were easy and it was nice to pre drill and screw them to the hatch and then glue them in place with the screw as a clamp. The rudder servo area is tight, I used an Emcotec 8711 wood mount there.
I also added some epoxy with CF tape over the exposed edges of the tank saddles, they seemed frail to support the tanks. They are more rigid now.
I did switch mine all back to 4-40 so had some pushrod work to do.
Anyway, as I went back to consider the main gear, I could not remember ( think it is aft..) but the plywood plate for the gear mount is an AFT shim (goes under the aft end of the gear mount?) right?
Also wondering if anyone has installed the latest light set from OLi/MIBO ? I wanted to see what they look like.
Will be getting the wings on soon for some fuse fitting. Waiting for the pitot tube to go along with my Jeti airspeed module for the right wingtip.
Thanks, Dave
02-21-2016, 07:51 PM
#225
Thread Starter