Masking Tape and Painting Help Please!
#51
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So I found some two part clear that come in a can.
The guy behind the counter who sold me this thinks it will react with the regular "CPA" paint. We will see. I'll do some light coats and see what happens.
I also found this:
Notice that it says UV resisting and non-yellowing. I'll have to test it on a piece and leave it in the sun non-stop and see what happens.
When I pulled the yellow masking tape off, this is what happened.
Sigh....
Did I leave on too long? Maybe bad prep underneath? Oh well, back to more testing.
The guy behind the counter who sold me this thinks it will react with the regular "CPA" paint. We will see. I'll do some light coats and see what happens.
I also found this:
Notice that it says UV resisting and non-yellowing. I'll have to test it on a piece and leave it in the sun non-stop and see what happens.
When I pulled the yellow masking tape off, this is what happened.
Sigh....
Did I leave on too long? Maybe bad prep underneath? Oh well, back to more testing.
#52
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http://www.tcpglobal.com/kustomshop/ktape.aspx
Thanks in advance,
Terry
#53
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My post was sarcastic, but this is actually the way I paint. I have plenty of ventialtion (which comes with its own set of requirements as in make sure the area is very clean!). I spray on the upstream side of the ventilation, and you can visually see most of the overspray dissipiating downstream. Then when I take the mask off I do it inside and put it in a plastic bag before storing it. If I ever need to use the very deadly stuff such as Deft.....I give it to an expert to handle it, though I've used it myself in "airbrush" volumes.
Then again, McDonalds and Texas water is killing me at a higher rate than Isocytes.
Then again, McDonalds and Texas water is killing me at a higher rate than Isocytes.
I have a plastic "tent" spray booth setup that hangs (and retracts) from the ceiling of my garage. When spraying I have an exhaust fan that pulls air out of the booth through a filter. Like your setup, you can see the overspray being sucked out, the side of the "booth" are pulled in, and the filter immediately changes color as soon as I start spraying.
This setup, along with a body suit, gloves, and a good fitting, *fresh* cartridge mask I think is OK. Also, as soon as I am done, I clean my gun outside the booth with the mask on and then leave the garage until the paint has cured. I also paint this stuff like maybe once or twice a year...
Bob
#54
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Raf, use the 3M green tape. Just make sure all tape is pressed down well and not put on there lightly and it will work.
Just FYI, the Spraymax 2k in a can has isocyanates according to the MSDS. And it is meant to be shot over urethanes.
Some of the Rustoleum/spray can clears have been tested in a thread a while back. I'll see if I can find it.
Just FYI, the Spraymax 2k in a can has isocyanates according to the MSDS. And it is meant to be shot over urethanes.
Some of the Rustoleum/spray can clears have been tested in a thread a while back. I'll see if I can find it.
#56
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Raf, this is why when I got into painting, I kind of learned to use all of one system of paint. All from one manufacturer. I have deviated slightly and with mixed results and disastrous results......test test test.
Some of that rattle can paint is pretty weak, and a strong clear will just melt it right off so be careful. So after these adhesion tests you will have to test the clear, and that can will be dead in hours if it is the 2 part clear
I hate cleaning guns as well so I know where your head is at. I think what you are doing_can_be done, just needs lost of testing and if possible buy all the paint from one manufacturer (one paint system)
Some of that rattle can paint is pretty weak, and a strong clear will just melt it right off so be careful. So after these adhesion tests you will have to test the clear, and that can will be dead in hours if it is the 2 part clear
I hate cleaning guns as well so I know where your head is at. I think what you are doing_can_be done, just needs lost of testing and if possible buy all the paint from one manufacturer (one paint system)
#57
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Thanks Matt. I hear ya. That's why I'm sticking to all one type of rattle...err...Conventional Paint Applicator!
I anticipate a fair amount of trial and error, and I think I have enough spare pieces lying around to practice, adhesion, coloring compatibility, masking and then clearing.
Then when I'm reasonably satisfied, I'll throw up a quick paint booth and paint away.
Here's my "paint gun"! LOL!
I anticipate a fair amount of trial and error, and I think I have enough spare pieces lying around to practice, adhesion, coloring compatibility, masking and then clearing.
Then when I'm reasonably satisfied, I'll throw up a quick paint booth and paint away.
Here's my "paint gun"! LOL!
#58
I have had excellent results with FrogTape when shooting, rolling, or brushing latex on my gasser projects. Here's the reason why from the vendor's website: "FrogTape® is the only painter's tape treated with PaintBlock® Technology. PaintBlock is a super-absorbent polymer which reacts with latex paint and instantly gels to form a micro-barrier that seals the edges of the tape, preventing paint bleed."
#59
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Hey Raf, I am not aware of any definitive reference on the matter which is mostly an issue with non-catalyzed finishes.
I have some things I avoid like mixing lacquers and enamels. But even enamel over enamel can be an issue if the underlaying coat is not fully dry.
Some enamels can take a week to dry. This is why I use a faster drying urethane primer for almost everything I do.
With catalyzed paints it is like Matt says: Stick with a system sold by the distributors.
But if we have a chemistry guy in the forum that can discuss acrylic enamels, acrylic lacquers, acrylic urethanes, polyurethanes, polyester coatings, husker do's, husker don'ts, cherry bombs, nipsy dazzers (with or without the scooter stick), then I am all ears...
I have some things I avoid like mixing lacquers and enamels. But even enamel over enamel can be an issue if the underlaying coat is not fully dry.
Some enamels can take a week to dry. This is why I use a faster drying urethane primer for almost everything I do.
With catalyzed paints it is like Matt says: Stick with a system sold by the distributors.
But if we have a chemistry guy in the forum that can discuss acrylic enamels, acrylic lacquers, acrylic urethanes, polyurethanes, polyester coatings, husker do's, husker don'ts, cherry bombs, nipsy dazzers (with or without the scooter stick), then I am all ears...
Last edited by dbsonic; 04-17-2014 at 02:37 PM.
#61
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LGM Graphix thank you again for taking the time to really lay it all out for us. As usual, informative and awesome. I am going to look into your recommended guns too. I need something the size of a Sata RP. I have a collection of nice airbrushes for small stuff and one of those cheap "auto trim guns" with an 8 oz can but that gun is messy. Nowhere near airbrush quality. Now I am going top print out and save your how to.