WimB

My Feedback: (1)

Alex, yes, it will be bolted to that former. I will need to reinforce the mounting points. The tray will be supported at the back as well.

Wim

Alex48

Good idea, that plywood is like cheese.

WimB

My Feedback: (1)

It is indeed....... on the tray, the wood is reinforced by a 1mm carbon sheet. I'll probably back the former with proper plywood, and install triangles to tie it into the fuse. Wouldn't want to see the nose come off after a landing, lol!

muzzgail

Hollywood Wim. Loving your build.

WimB

My Feedback: (1)

hey guys, done a lot of work in the meantime, check out my new vids........

http://youtu.be/FRbjKz2HcGM http://youtu.be/FRbjKz2HcGM http://youtu.be/fOGdUfCUixA Enjoy!!

muzzgail

Well done Wim. Sounds like she is coming together nicely buddy.

FenderBean

Man seeing the gear work worries me with hang ups on the up, Wim how do u have your gear and doors setup, 1 valve for all 3 gear and 2 for the doors? Looking good mine is ready for paint!!!!

Chris Nicastro

My Feedback: (3)

Increase the air volume so it has more authority. If theres room for another tank or two its worth it.

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

Looks good Wim. What you gear and doors are doing is exactly why im going hydraulic and custom cylinders on my tomcat.

WimB

My Feedback: (1)

@ Fender: I ordered mine with the 5-in-1 valve. although it doesn't have the right program for the tomcat, it can work if used in conjunction with an extra valve on the powerbox sequencer. this is how i did it on mine.

@ Chris: indeed, I installed two large Robart tanks above the inlets, and joined those for the gear and doors. I then have two of the original tanks under the pumps and UAT's, one for airbrake + brakes, other for canopy and tailhook.

@ thomas: the left main gear did hang up a bit, much better after some careful application of WD40, lol.........

@ Muzz, thx mate!

Chris Nicastro

My Feedback: (3)

Is it better now or does the video show the extra air volume performance?

WimB

My Feedback: (1)

Chris,

this is with the extra tank, but after lubrication, they go up a lot smoother.

W.

mick15

LG action http://youtu.be/_XYx4dqBuFE

FenderBean

man I was really hoping someone converted theirs to hydraulic, I was really hoping to do that to mine!!!
Mick would you send me or post how you did yours? Im here in the states and cannot find anything local so I guesss im going to need to order from overseas. Looks good seems to work really smooth, did you convert everything to hydraulic or just the gear? Thanks

DiscoWings

My Feedback: (76)

you are getting into a world of hurt with hydraulics... better get some 300 psi nylon line as polyureathane can't handle the loads hydraulics need.

invertmast

My Feedback: (23)

Judging by the slapping of the doors, im betting they are still pneumatic

schroedm

My Feedback: (1)

Gear is definitely hydraulic. You can hear the pump. Doors might be air still. Sure Mick will clarify

mick15

Yes Mark is correct, the gear is oil and the doors are air. It would be too complicated to have the doors hyd as they have to be timed requiring two more distribution valves and two more servos.
I may be tempted in the future to have the secondary doors oil operated ie the nose doors, the small and outer main doors because I'm not happy with the transition speed.

The system is basically the UMS (India) kit with the ECU replaced by my own accumulator which controls the pump cycle, there is a picture of this in a previous post.

I have modified 10 or a dozen models now and have not yet come across cylinders that cannot be modified to 4mm operation. The last one I did was my Airworld Hunter.

m

WimB

My Feedback: (1)

Well guys, hardware on mine is about done, still need to adress some minor things, but in all, it's finished!

still have a lot of programming to do though, and doublechecking of course.

I sent in my actuators today for an upgrade, will be changed to full alu version.

I did take the time to check my balance, and it does come out quite well!!!

here she is "hanging in the ropes' so to say....





I'm very happy with the outcome: to balance her per the manual, she only needs 285g of lead in the nose, to balance her just in front of the wing mech, the lead needs to go in the back. so without any lead, she'll balance about 1cm in front of the pivot mechanism. I weighed her as well..... 28kg, dry, with filled UAT's.... oh, if you fit long bolts to balance yours, be sure to fit véry strong M4 bolts.... mine bent, lol!

W.

mick15

Where exactly is the model hanging from, can't quite see?

m

WimB

My Feedback: (1)

Mick, it's suspended from the ceiling, with the orange straps, who are connected with hooks to a strong string (yellow) going to the long bolt.
next pic probably shows it better...

mick15

No I mean at what point on the model? It should hang from a point touching the front carbon cross member.

m

WimB

My Feedback: (1)

Mick,

per the manual, initially it should be balanced about 2cm in front of the CF cross member.

at this location, it needs 285g nose weight. suspended just n front of the CF spar, it needs the same weight in the tail. so without weight, it balances between these two extremes.

Wim

mick15

Having just completed the hours flying for the CAA I can tell you mine would be nose heavy at that setting.

m

WimB

My Feedback: (1)

okay, then I guess I won't bother with adding lead to it, and that would mean I have achieved my goal, NO LEAD!

W.