Carf - Models J-10 build thread
10-30-2014, 03:53 AM
#32
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Just started my J-10 build. Installing the tumble tube . I received two long carbon rods, one short tube and one metal tube. not long enought to reach the tumble tube. ? I'm I missing something here ? Help
10-30-2014, 06:43 AM
#35
The J-10 was designed specifically for the JC P-180. When I looked over CARF's J-10 at BITW the two long carbon rods had the 3mm threaded rods glued to the ends in order to reach the servos and thrust vectoring tube. The threaded rods connecting to the thrust vectoring tube were bent following the profile of the turbine and connecting to the tube via ball links. They added shrink tubing around the glue joint overlapping the two rods and inch or two which was directly over the middle of the turbine to protect from heat. They have a picture of the turbine mounted to the rails and linkages in the latest CARF catalog. I can take a picture of it and post here if that helps. I have the kit and plan to start building it soon. I just received the gear yesterday. Main tires are 4.5 inches in diameter.
10-30-2014, 06:05 PM
#39
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Bob
10-30-2014, 10:09 PM
#41
OK I checked my kit for the rods and this is what I found.
List of Rods:
2X ~39.5" Long
2X ~15.75" Long
1X ~12" Long (metal)
List of Packs:
Fin
Wing
Canard
Engine Mount
Fuselage
Landing Gear
Hatch
Canopy (empty bag, hardware installed already)
Thrust Vector Tube
Nose Gear Pack
See pictures attached.
Looks like the two long and two short need to be connected together and the metal rod is used as a sleeve like Bob mentioned. The thrust vector tube pack has six threaded rods in it, which I believe are used to connect all the rods together to make the two push rods from the servos to thrust tube.
List of Rods:
2X ~39.5" Long
2X ~15.75" Long
1X ~12" Long (metal)
List of Packs:
Fin
Wing
Canard
Engine Mount
Fuselage
Landing Gear
Hatch
Canopy (empty bag, hardware installed already)
Thrust Vector Tube
Nose Gear Pack
See pictures attached.
Looks like the two long and two short need to be connected together and the metal rod is used as a sleeve like Bob mentioned. The thrust vector tube pack has six threaded rods in it, which I believe are used to connect all the rods together to make the two push rods from the servos to thrust tube.
11-02-2014, 02:22 PM
#47
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Hi Airforce7
You have to split the metal one in two parts and use them as connector (long carbon - metal - short carbon). Do you have the unofficial manual?
http://www.elsterjet.de/Downloads/Bauanleitung-J10.zip
Martin
You have to split the metal one in two parts and use them as connector (long carbon - metal - short carbon). Do you have the unofficial manual?
http://www.elsterjet.de/Downloads/Bauanleitung-J10.zip
Martin
11-02-2014, 09:54 PM
#49
Goals for the weekend were to get the canard, fin and gear completed. See photos. Word of caution, when working with the bottom cover off to get the gear installed be careful not to poke your self against the sharp edges. I put some foam on the tips to protect my skin and eyes while I did a trial fit of the main gear.
I need to make some small adjustments to the right main gear. Two or three washers to act as a shim should help get the gear to be in line with the left side when retracted. Also the opening for the nose wheels is a bit to small, I'll Dremel the opening a bit larger next chance I get.
Lastly, I fiddled with the linkage for the rudder quite a bit and ultimately needed to open the slot about a 1/2 inch towards the front to get the push rod to work right. I added a carbon fiber sleeve over the 3mm rod to give it a bit more strength. I also put the link on the top side of the rudder horn, which seemed to be the better option for me.
I need to make some small adjustments to the right main gear. Two or three washers to act as a shim should help get the gear to be in line with the left side when retracted. Also the opening for the nose wheels is a bit to small, I'll Dremel the opening a bit larger next chance I get.
Lastly, I fiddled with the linkage for the rudder quite a bit and ultimately needed to open the slot about a 1/2 inch towards the front to get the push rod to work right. I added a carbon fiber sleeve over the 3mm rod to give it a bit more strength. I also put the link on the top side of the rudder horn, which seemed to be the better option for me.
