Mini Lathe for Jet Stuff
08-21-2014, 08:45 PM
#27
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Here are a few more.
http://www.varmintal.com/alath.htm#Mini_Lathe
http://www.speedymetals.com
http://www.use-enco.com/
http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_lathe/Start/start.htm
http://www.hobbylinc.com/ --------------- For metal stock.
http://www.lathemaster.com/
http://www.victornet.com/
http://www.ehobbytools.com/
http://www.onlinemetals.com/
http://www.speedymetals.com
Exhuasted my links file I think.
http://www.varmintal.com/alath.htm#Mini_Lathe
http://www.speedymetals.com
http://www.use-enco.com/
http://www.mini-lathe.com/Mini_lathe/Start/start.htm
http://www.hobbylinc.com/ --------------- For metal stock.
http://www.lathemaster.com/
http://www.victornet.com/
http://www.ehobbytools.com/
http://www.onlinemetals.com/
http://www.speedymetals.com
Exhuasted my links file I think.
Last edited by BlazerB52; 08-22-2014 at 08:42 AM.
08-21-2014, 09:50 PM
#29
Hi Raf,
Centre drills are a must, as is a step drill kit. I have one with every size drill bit between 1.0 and 10.mm in 0.1mm increments. Could not do without my lathe/mill and tools. I don't know how people manage in this hobby without one. No more sloppy bushings in landing gears!
Centre drills are a must, as is a step drill kit. I have one with every size drill bit between 1.0 and 10.mm in 0.1mm increments. Could not do without my lathe/mill and tools. I don't know how people manage in this hobby without one. No more sloppy bushings in landing gears!
08-21-2014, 10:51 PM
#30
Boring bar too. Those need a special holder that fit in your quick change.
EDIT: come to think of it I think those quick change holders have a V cut in the bottom so they will probably work as is.
And get good safety glasses (or an pirate eye patch for the first aid kit)
EDIT: come to think of it I think those quick change holders have a V cut in the bottom so they will probably work as is.
And get good safety glasses (or an pirate eye patch for the first aid kit)
Last edited by mr_matt; 08-21-2014 at 11:15 PM.
08-21-2014, 10:56 PM
#31
Picture of the Glanze boring bars which I have found to be very good, available in small size > large
This one shown is 6mm, was not cheap but after you use for first time you think straight away it was well worth the cost!
Alan
This one shown is 6mm, was not cheap but after you use for first time you think straight away it was well worth the cost!
Alan
Last edited by fireblade5437; 08-21-2014 at 10:59 PM.
08-21-2014, 11:42 PM
#32
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I bought a mini-lathe (Sieg C3) about a year ago, my lack of training and experience in machining makes me the limitation, not the lathe!
What I have found is that the tailstock needs a lot of attention to get it centred and aligned, and then constantly checked and adjusted to keep it there, otherwise centre drilling etc is a wasted effort. As delivered, the tailstock is miles off. It comes with one grub screw at the back, and a bolt from underneath, to hold it to its mounting plate. I drilled and tapped two holes from the front and put in bolts so that now 3 bolts hold its alignment, and by adjusting them I can fix the direction it is pointing horizontally. Having the main fixing bolt underneath is no use, you can't get at it to lock it in place without taking the tailstock off the bed thus ruining the alignment so I drilled its hole right through to the top, put in a longer bolt from the top and used a square nut in what had been the bolt head channel in the base, so now I can tighten it from the top without taking the tailstock.off the bed. I had to shim up the stock on its base to get the height and angle right, I found spark plug feeler gauges were perfect for that.
The main chuck is also a very handy vice for round things that need cutting with saws, like wing joiner pipes, piano wire etc.
What I have found is that the tailstock needs a lot of attention to get it centred and aligned, and then constantly checked and adjusted to keep it there, otherwise centre drilling etc is a wasted effort. As delivered, the tailstock is miles off. It comes with one grub screw at the back, and a bolt from underneath, to hold it to its mounting plate. I drilled and tapped two holes from the front and put in bolts so that now 3 bolts hold its alignment, and by adjusting them I can fix the direction it is pointing horizontally. Having the main fixing bolt underneath is no use, you can't get at it to lock it in place without taking the tailstock off the bed thus ruining the alignment so I drilled its hole right through to the top, put in a longer bolt from the top and used a square nut in what had been the bolt head channel in the base, so now I can tighten it from the top without taking the tailstock.off the bed. I had to shim up the stock on its base to get the height and angle right, I found spark plug feeler gauges were perfect for that.
The main chuck is also a very handy vice for round things that need cutting with saws, like wing joiner pipes, piano wire etc.
Last edited by HarryC; 08-21-2014 at 11:57 PM.
08-22-2014, 06:54 AM
#34
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Here's how I started about 15 years ago. Learned everything on my own.... bought some big equipment... and turned it into a living. But, had to give it up to help with the family biz.
08-22-2014, 11:30 AM
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Hi guys,
New member here so take what I say with a grain of salt. But I am a machinist by trade. Ok first off the talk of accuracies. ANY machine is only as accurate as the operator. I learned manual machining on bridgeports and other units older than my grandfather with more slop(backlash) than, well more than you can imagine. And the tolerances we were required to hold for the parts to "pass" were .001. But as long as the gibs hold everything where it should be then backlash is something to just account for.
Tooling, harbor freight has a set of indexable carbide cutters for like 35 bucks and extra inserts are available from amazon. I have found them to be invaluable. Yes learn to grind your own cutter as micro boring bars are crazy expensive for what they are. The quick change toolpost will pay for itself in time saving and in tooling savings, as you can then use almost any surplus tooling you can find, and when you have 15 years of misc tooling piled around, that can be allot.
This little 7x12 is a decent machine, as others have stated the tailstock kinda sucks gonads for many different reasons, but with the right adapters and ingenuity with the quick change post you can eliminate it for most any operation needing it.
comparing it to other machine, the biggest thing is to look at the weight, or mass, of the unit. Mass absorbs vibrations and a more massive machine will be a godsend when wanting nice cuts while making a heavy cut. Remember there is a limit to how small of a cut should be made. It has to do with tool edge and at some point you are not cutting but burnishing.
I also have a 8x12-14 lathe that I will start working on converting to cnc again soon, and I loved it, much more than this 7x12. Mainly due to the sheer size and mass of the machine, 250-300 lbs of metal there.
Another great add-on is a 5c collet chuck, a wee bit spendy but if you are doing a lot of smaller parts it will be invaluable.
ok enough for now I think, hope I could help.
http://youtu.be/CmkY8H791C0 There are a couple other videos for this lathe as well.
New member here so take what I say with a grain of salt. But I am a machinist by trade. Ok first off the talk of accuracies. ANY machine is only as accurate as the operator. I learned manual machining on bridgeports and other units older than my grandfather with more slop(backlash) than, well more than you can imagine. And the tolerances we were required to hold for the parts to "pass" were .001. But as long as the gibs hold everything where it should be then backlash is something to just account for.
Tooling, harbor freight has a set of indexable carbide cutters for like 35 bucks and extra inserts are available from amazon. I have found them to be invaluable. Yes learn to grind your own cutter as micro boring bars are crazy expensive for what they are. The quick change toolpost will pay for itself in time saving and in tooling savings, as you can then use almost any surplus tooling you can find, and when you have 15 years of misc tooling piled around, that can be allot.
This little 7x12 is a decent machine, as others have stated the tailstock kinda sucks gonads for many different reasons, but with the right adapters and ingenuity with the quick change post you can eliminate it for most any operation needing it.
comparing it to other machine, the biggest thing is to look at the weight, or mass, of the unit. Mass absorbs vibrations and a more massive machine will be a godsend when wanting nice cuts while making a heavy cut. Remember there is a limit to how small of a cut should be made. It has to do with tool edge and at some point you are not cutting but burnishing.
I also have a 8x12-14 lathe that I will start working on converting to cnc again soon, and I loved it, much more than this 7x12. Mainly due to the sheer size and mass of the machine, 250-300 lbs of metal there.
Another great add-on is a 5c collet chuck, a wee bit spendy but if you are doing a lot of smaller parts it will be invaluable.
ok enough for now I think, hope I could help.
http://youtu.be/CmkY8H791C0 There are a couple other videos for this lathe as well.
08-22-2014, 12:44 PM
#38
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Well CNCzone used to be my favorite, but it seems that it has gone way to IDK commercial, add orientated, like I was happy with cnc zone and was on it everyday, like 15 years ago, now well, really I'd like to find other forums myself. They all seem to be manual machining orientated or like you said, geared towards the professional.
That being said, doing a cnc conversion, even from scratch, mechanically, is less complicated than most of the RC bits we assemble and play with on a daily basis. LOL, I did the conversion of the mill with a 4 inch grinder and 3-d printer. Just to say I did. 5 thou backlash on z and no discernable on x and y and it will run at 200 inches a minute. But I did start with good models in Solidworks and just made it up as I went.
The 8x14 lathe will be even easier, but it is like 120 degrees out in the shop, so yeah that project is on hold till it cools down sometime in november. The 7x12 I will keep manual.
I am going to redo the z axis ballscrew mount on the mil as I hate the idea of the 5 thou backlash even if it can be mostly eliminated in software.
Let me know if I can ever be of assistance on a cnc project or you need suggestions and such.
That being said, doing a cnc conversion, even from scratch, mechanically, is less complicated than most of the RC bits we assemble and play with on a daily basis. LOL, I did the conversion of the mill with a 4 inch grinder and 3-d printer. Just to say I did. 5 thou backlash on z and no discernable on x and y and it will run at 200 inches a minute. But I did start with good models in Solidworks and just made it up as I went.
The 8x14 lathe will be even easier, but it is like 120 degrees out in the shop, so yeah that project is on hold till it cools down sometime in november. The 7x12 I will keep manual.
I am going to redo the z axis ballscrew mount on the mil as I hate the idea of the 5 thou backlash even if it can be mostly eliminated in software.
Let me know if I can ever be of assistance on a cnc project or you need suggestions and such.
08-23-2014, 11:47 AM
#39
Wow, what a great a thread guys! Thanks for all the info. I'm going to check out those links!
I added the HarborF indexing tools (what can I say, they were so cheap and there they were, looking right at me).
Yay me!!! I cut my first piece of metal last night!! I needed a BVM sized reducer to a robart strut. And I made one myself last night!!! (But I forgot to take a pic!)
The last one I made cost me $50. Not bad, but finding a machine shop to do it (and those guys have ULTIMATE bankers hours) and then getting there before they close, yada, yada, yada...
That quick change tool post is OMMFG necessary. I probably would have stopped right then and there if I had to change out the tools the old way.
Even with my one, first piece made, it is obvious how much there is to learn and I can already sense the limitations such a small machine may have.
I had to try "facing" like 5 times before my center "nipple" was acceptably gone!
I also found it very strange that mini lathe forums are FAR and FEW between.
Maybe this can be a subforum RCU mods?
I added the HarborF indexing tools (what can I say, they were so cheap and there they were, looking right at me).
Yay me!!! I cut my first piece of metal last night!! I needed a BVM sized reducer to a robart strut. And I made one myself last night!!! (But I forgot to take a pic!)
The last one I made cost me $50. Not bad, but finding a machine shop to do it (and those guys have ULTIMATE bankers hours) and then getting there before they close, yada, yada, yada...
That quick change tool post is OMMFG necessary. I probably would have stopped right then and there if I had to change out the tools the old way.
Even with my one, first piece made, it is obvious how much there is to learn and I can already sense the limitations such a small machine may have.
I had to try "facing" like 5 times before my center "nipple" was acceptably gone!
I also found it very strange that mini lathe forums are FAR and FEW between.
Maybe this can be a subforum RCU mods?
08-23-2014, 02:58 PM
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the 9x12 lathe is very popular and has a huge yahoo group and such, but it weighs no more than these little 7x machines, I would be scared to swing a 9 inch piece in it actually.
Ravill. Take a piece of stock and face one side till there is no nipple, making sure to start to low and work you way up. if you start too high you will rub it off not cut it off. when you are "on canter" measure to the flats on the slide. now flip the stock around and mark it and cut it to that length. make it as acurate as you can get but you would rather be a couple thouh under sized than over. There now you have a tool height setting block to make tool change and set-up's even quicker.
Ravill. Take a piece of stock and face one side till there is no nipple, making sure to start to low and work you way up. if you start too high you will rub it off not cut it off. when you are "on canter" measure to the flats on the slide. now flip the stock around and mark it and cut it to that length. make it as acurate as you can get but you would rather be a couple thouh under sized than over. There now you have a tool height setting block to make tool change and set-up's even quicker.
08-23-2014, 04:18 PM
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Stay away from HF and Grizzly is a crap shoot(china crap) Enco and MSC is the best quality of the Tiawan stuff. Check Ebay I've gotten good deals on a lot of tools and equipment. When you can buy older American equipment because an older American iron half wore out is better the anything new from China.
08-23-2014, 06:02 PM
#43
the 9x12 lathe is very popular and has a huge yahoo group and such, but it weighs no more than these little 7x machines, I would be scared to swing a 9 inch piece in it actually.
Ravill. Take a piece of stock and face one side till there is no nipple, making sure to start to low and work you way up. if you start too high you will rub it off not cut it off. when you are "on canter" measure to the flats on the slide. now flip the stock around and mark it and cut it to that length. make it as acurate as you can get but you would rather be a couple thouh under sized than over. There now you have a tool height setting block to make tool change and set-up's even quicker.
Ravill. Take a piece of stock and face one side till there is no nipple, making sure to start to low and work you way up. if you start too high you will rub it off not cut it off. when you are "on canter" measure to the flats on the slide. now flip the stock around and mark it and cut it to that length. make it as acurate as you can get but you would rather be a couple thouh under sized than over. There now you have a tool height setting block to make tool change and set-up's even quicker.
08-23-2014, 06:35 PM
#44
Hey Raffy,
I have some nice systems at home and at work I just got this one for research. I just cut this part for fun.
This part suppose to go to the the moon next year..... but I can't tell you more
http://youtu.be/jcuDFJMwVSo Best,
Gonzalo
I have some nice systems at home and at work I just got this one for research. I just cut this part for fun.
This part suppose to go to the the moon next year..... but I can't tell you more http://youtu.be/jcuDFJMwVSo Best,
Gonzalo
Last edited by gonzalom; 08-23-2014 at 06:38 PM.
08-24-2014, 03:51 AM
#45
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Thanks. I tried.
It was a lot of fun... but business was always "Hot and cold". I could go a couple months with minimal sales... but then I would get hit with orders from everywhere. Overall, the shop made money.
The main reason I shut down was that my Dad wanted to retire, and my brother wanted me to join the family biz.
It was a lot of fun... but business was always "Hot and cold". I could go a couple months with minimal sales... but then I would get hit with orders from everywhere. Overall, the shop made money.
The main reason I shut down was that my Dad wanted to retire, and my brother wanted me to join the family biz.
08-24-2014, 03:57 AM
#46
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Hey Raffy,
I have some nice systems at home and at work I just got this one for research. I just cut this part for fun. This part suppose to go to the the moon next year..... but I can't tell you more
http://youtu.be/jcuDFJMwVSo
Best,
Gonzalo
I have some nice systems at home and at work I just got this one for research. I just cut this part for fun.
This part suppose to go to the the moon next year..... but I can't tell you more http://youtu.be/jcuDFJMwVSo
Best,
Gonzalo
Very cool machine... but the tool changes, and rapids are SLOW !
I'm going to get a small version of that for the garage next year. It may not have the double spindle... but a turning center with mill is on the short list.
08-24-2014, 07:52 PM
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The only issues with toolmakers suggestion about buying an older used US machine, is the fact that MOST(not all) of the people looking for a machine in this budget have little to no experience using a lathe let alone experience rebuilding them and maintaining them, that would help them make a properly informed decision on a used lathe purchase. See unfortunately in most shops thew employees that run the lathes and such are also in charge of its upkeep, so oilers never get oil and gibbs are not adjusted tell there is severe slop, and both of these things will wear the ways unnaturally fast. It is just the way it goes, a guy is worried about getting the job done not worrying about if the part can be made on the machine in 2 years, I have been in countless shops doing machine repairs and maintenance duties where the people running the machines didn't even know they needed oil. Wow that moves nice now, after clean up adjustments and a little lube is applied. LOL. So what you end up with is lathes that move butter smooth right around the chuck but almost impossible to move it 6 inches away cause the ways have been wore so much in the area of the chuck, or the saddle moves fine on the whole machine and is then sloppy and chattery around the head. either way symptoms of the same thing.
I sold my perfect enco 14x40, it was just too big for most of anything I'll ever need, then sold the atlas also. This little 7x12 does just fine. That brings me to the second point. Unless that machine gets used 5 or 6 times a day there is no way I'm putting a huge beast like that back in the shop, nope way too much real estate taken up for me, and prolly by 90% of the people wanting to get into hoby type machining. Otherwise we would all have 4000lb monarch lathes and big bridgeports.
So having sung the virtues of the 7x12, i would still spend the money on the 8x14, even at twice the price, it really is twice the machine. and if your worried about quality control, lathmaster seems excellent.
I think the nxt machines have a less than a sec chip to chip time, seems like rapids are on 10% over ride.
I sold my perfect enco 14x40, it was just too big for most of anything I'll ever need, then sold the atlas also. This little 7x12 does just fine. That brings me to the second point. Unless that machine gets used 5 or 6 times a day there is no way I'm putting a huge beast like that back in the shop, nope way too much real estate taken up for me, and prolly by 90% of the people wanting to get into hoby type machining. Otherwise we would all have 4000lb monarch lathes and big bridgeports.
So having sung the virtues of the 7x12, i would still spend the money on the 8x14, even at twice the price, it really is twice the machine. and if your worried about quality control, lathmaster seems excellent.
I think the nxt machines have a less than a sec chip to chip time, seems like rapids are on 10% over ride.
08-25-2014, 05:26 AM
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joshthepit
I had a complete Shurline shop with all attachments but found that they were very time consuming to use and sold it. I could make the same part in half the time on my " large" (not) Bridgport and 12 X 36 Southbend lathe. There are 1000's of books on machines and machining in most librarys or the internet so any intelegent individual should do research if they don't have the knowledge so they do not buy a piece of scrap as you describe. I can turn a .010 dia.shaft 1" long on my 14 X 40 lathe because I have the knowledge which is in books or the internet. If a person wants to wing it without help so be it.There are 1000's of people on forms(not this one) with all the knowledge you could want to help you machine anything.If I had an apartment I would be happy with a Shurline setup.I will be happy to assist anyone with getting started machining or a machining problem.A good rule is made in China check check check and investigate.I'm not saying all Made in China stuff is bad you just have to be very careful. Check out my web: www.mandmprecision.com
I had a complete Shurline shop with all attachments but found that they were very time consuming to use and sold it. I could make the same part in half the time on my " large" (not) Bridgport and 12 X 36 Southbend lathe. There are 1000's of books on machines and machining in most librarys or the internet so any intelegent individual should do research if they don't have the knowledge so they do not buy a piece of scrap as you describe. I can turn a .010 dia.shaft 1" long on my 14 X 40 lathe because I have the knowledge which is in books or the internet. If a person wants to wing it without help so be it.There are 1000's of people on forms(not this one) with all the knowledge you could want to help you machine anything.If I had an apartment I would be happy with a Shurline setup.I will be happy to assist anyone with getting started machining or a machining problem.A good rule is made in China check check check and investigate.I'm not saying all Made in China stuff is bad you just have to be very careful. Check out my web: www.mandmprecision.com
Last edited by toolmaker7341; 08-25-2014 at 05:50 AM. Reason: spelling
08-25-2014, 09:04 AM
#50
Cool picture Raffy! it brings good memories!!!! You are more than welcome to come to my place and I show you how I do maching at home. Also if you want to stop by one day at my office I can show you some amazing equipment.
Tony the federate and change of tools I did it for the video..... it can go so fast if I want!
Enjoy,
Gonzalo
Tony the federate and change of tools I did it for the video..... it can go so fast if I want
!Enjoy,
Gonzalo