Skymaster/Extreme 2m Viper -- Opinions needed
#1
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (7)
Skymaster/Extreme 2m Viper -- Opinions needed
Hi all, I have gotten the bug regarding the S/M/Extreme 2M Viper and was want to get some input. I have done some reading here on RCU, Ali started a very informative thread in 2010 and it has gone a long way.. Seems there have been changes throughout the childhood of this kit. I was talked to a few people and have heard good things, great flying plane, pilot friendly, etc.. I was just wondering if any of you guys that have had and experienced this model can give me so advice. I have had my fill of problem projects over the years, and I just want an airplane that is user friendly and fun to fly. Build it right and gas it and go... Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks for any help !!!
Cheers,
Danno
Cheers,
Danno
#4
I agree it is a great flying jet . I have a Jet cat P100 in mine and has no issues taking off of grass ...Built per the manual and CG I moved back a few MM after a few flights
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u8X_IgWggFQ
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u8X_IgWggFQ
#5
My Feedback: (13)
Danno,
Great plane, but box-stock it is not a daily fuel/fly plane. I say that, but understand that my idea is to put 6-9 flights on a day and a hundred plus a year. It took me a long time to get the 2M Viperjet to that point (and just as I got it there an uncharged tx took it from me (I say that tongue and cheek as it was totally my error)).
I will say the plane has great presence, looks amazing in the air and lands like a million bucks with some crow. Once I got the hang of the landings it looked like an airliner coming down final...just rock steady with no tendency to do anything but soldier on to a nice landing.
The particular areas I had to work on include: the gear door hinges were absolutely trash. I ended up replacing them with BV metal ones...problem solved.
The fuel stoppers that come with the kit are subpar in my mind...I installed Dreamworks threaded inserts and all was well.
The areas around the gear wells flexes enough to create cracks. I'd put some carbon cloth in there and I bet all would be well.
The pin (I think it was 5mm) on the Nosegear is very soft. It doesn't shear, it bends, especially with a long Nosegear like it has. I replaced mine with some hard drill stock bought at a local hardware store and it solved the problem.
The canopy bow flexes enough to cause trouble...I put some carbon tow in there and it stiffened it up nicely. Some guys have added a third pin and it solved the problem as well.
Mine snapped under a heavily loaded pull. I reflexes my ailerons a little bit with greater than 75% elevator and that helped immensely. Bear in mind that my plane was a bit chubby (P120, full cockpit, etc) and I'm sure that contributed to the problem.
I'm sure there's more, but those are the things I can recall years later
I'm not trying to dissuade you even a little, but if you know these issues at the beginning of the project you can build in the fixes and have a fuel and fly plane
Dave
Great plane, but box-stock it is not a daily fuel/fly plane. I say that, but understand that my idea is to put 6-9 flights on a day and a hundred plus a year. It took me a long time to get the 2M Viperjet to that point (and just as I got it there an uncharged tx took it from me (I say that tongue and cheek as it was totally my error)).
I will say the plane has great presence, looks amazing in the air and lands like a million bucks with some crow. Once I got the hang of the landings it looked like an airliner coming down final...just rock steady with no tendency to do anything but soldier on to a nice landing.
The particular areas I had to work on include: the gear door hinges were absolutely trash. I ended up replacing them with BV metal ones...problem solved.
The fuel stoppers that come with the kit are subpar in my mind...I installed Dreamworks threaded inserts and all was well.
The areas around the gear wells flexes enough to create cracks. I'd put some carbon cloth in there and I bet all would be well.
The pin (I think it was 5mm) on the Nosegear is very soft. It doesn't shear, it bends, especially with a long Nosegear like it has. I replaced mine with some hard drill stock bought at a local hardware store and it solved the problem.
The canopy bow flexes enough to cause trouble...I put some carbon tow in there and it stiffened it up nicely. Some guys have added a third pin and it solved the problem as well.
Mine snapped under a heavily loaded pull. I reflexes my ailerons a little bit with greater than 75% elevator and that helped immensely. Bear in mind that my plane was a bit chubby (P120, full cockpit, etc) and I'm sure that contributed to the problem.
I'm sure there's more, but those are the things I can recall years later
I'm not trying to dissuade you even a little, but if you know these issues at the beginning of the project you can build in the fixes and have a fuel and fly plane
Dave
#6
Hey Danno,
I've put 100 flights on mine without laying a spanner on it. I did a few suggested mods like strengthen the fuel tank base and replace the pull pull steering set up with a direct drive servo mounted to the leg. Also I strengthened the gear mounts as suggested but every landing has been like a feather so I haven't tested it out.
U won't b disappointed.
Levi
I've put 100 flights on mine without laying a spanner on it. I did a few suggested mods like strengthen the fuel tank base and replace the pull pull steering set up with a direct drive servo mounted to the leg. Also I strengthened the gear mounts as suggested but every landing has been like a feather so I haven't tested it out.
U won't b disappointed.
Levi
#7
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (7)
Man, I like what I hear !!! I can say I've never heard anything bad at all about the airplane, but I just wanted to get some inside info on any issues you guys have come across over the years. It like everything out there has some subtle issues to deal with. You guy's have given me a good place to begin a overcome anything right off the bat. I really appreciate your time and response. I think I'm going to pursue my ambition on this and go for it !!! Thanks for you help, If you think of anything else, my ears are wide open !!!
Danno
Danno
#8
My Feedback: (11)
Danno,
Great plane, but box-stock it is not a daily fuel/fly plane. I say that, but understand that my idea is to put 6-9 flights on a day and a hundred plus a year. It took me a long time to get the 2M Viperjet to that point (and just as I got it there an uncharged tx took it from me (I say that tongue and cheek as it was totally my error)).
I will say the plane has great presence, looks amazing in the air and lands like a million bucks with some crow. Once I got the hang of the landings it looked like an airliner coming down final...just rock steady with no tendency to do anything but soldier on to a nice landing.
The particular areas I had to work on include: the gear door hinges were absolutely trash. I ended up replacing them with BV metal ones...problem solved.
The fuel stoppers that come with the kit are subpar in my mind...I installed Dreamworks threaded inserts and all was well.
The areas around the gear wells flexes enough to create cracks. I'd put some carbon cloth in there and I bet all would be well.
The pin (I think it was 5mm) on the Nosegear is very soft. It doesn't shear, it bends, especially with a long Nosegear like it has. I replaced mine with some hard drill stock bought at a local hardware store and it solved the problem.
The canopy bow flexes enough to cause trouble...I put some carbon tow in there and it stiffened it up nicely. Some guys have added a third pin and it solved the problem as well.
Mine snapped under a heavily loaded pull. I reflexes my ailerons a little bit with greater than 75% elevator and that helped immensely. Bear in mind that my plane was a bit chubby (P120, full cockpit, etc) and I'm sure that contributed to the problem.
I'm sure there's more, but those are the things I can recall years later
I'm not trying to dissuade you even a little, but if you know these issues at the beginning of the project you can build in the fixes and have a fuel and fly plane
Dave
Great plane, but box-stock it is not a daily fuel/fly plane. I say that, but understand that my idea is to put 6-9 flights on a day and a hundred plus a year. It took me a long time to get the 2M Viperjet to that point (and just as I got it there an uncharged tx took it from me (I say that tongue and cheek as it was totally my error)).
I will say the plane has great presence, looks amazing in the air and lands like a million bucks with some crow. Once I got the hang of the landings it looked like an airliner coming down final...just rock steady with no tendency to do anything but soldier on to a nice landing.
The particular areas I had to work on include: the gear door hinges were absolutely trash. I ended up replacing them with BV metal ones...problem solved.
The fuel stoppers that come with the kit are subpar in my mind...I installed Dreamworks threaded inserts and all was well.
The areas around the gear wells flexes enough to create cracks. I'd put some carbon cloth in there and I bet all would be well.
The pin (I think it was 5mm) on the Nosegear is very soft. It doesn't shear, it bends, especially with a long Nosegear like it has. I replaced mine with some hard drill stock bought at a local hardware store and it solved the problem.
The canopy bow flexes enough to cause trouble...I put some carbon tow in there and it stiffened it up nicely. Some guys have added a third pin and it solved the problem as well.
Mine snapped under a heavily loaded pull. I reflexes my ailerons a little bit with greater than 75% elevator and that helped immensely. Bear in mind that my plane was a bit chubby (P120, full cockpit, etc) and I'm sure that contributed to the problem.
I'm sure there's more, but those are the things I can recall years later
I'm not trying to dissuade you even a little, but if you know these issues at the beginning of the project you can build in the fixes and have a fuel and fly plane
Dave
#9
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (7)
Thanks for all the input !! It has arrived and I will start on it soon. My good buddy Eric Clapp / Jet Central made it a reality for me. If your looking for a great price on the Skymaster/Extreme kit's, give him a call, He'll hook you up !!! Delivered to my door DHL packed so good, they could have drug it behind the truck and it would have been perfect !! Really looking forward to it. I'll see you guy's in Mississippi !!! ( I'll even let you fly it Eric ) Pictures as I go.
Danno
Danno
#12
Senior Member
My Feedback: (36)
Myself and another member of our club are getting this airplane. I have read the online manual but if someone could tell me what elevator/aileron/flap servos they are using they would be great. We could order them now and have everything we need when the plane gets here.
Jack
Jack
#13
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (7)
Myself and another member of our club are getting this airplane. I have read the online manual but if someone could tell me what elevator/aileron/flap servos they are using they would be great. We could order them now and have everything we need when the plane gets here.
Jack
Jack
Jack,
They call for JR 8411's everywhere except elevators. They require a midsize servo.and are calling for the JR 3301. They don't make that one any more and I have decided to use the Spektrum 5060's. They are stronger than the 3301's anyway. The Spektrum 6260 would be my pick for everything else. A lot stronger than the 8411's and a tiny bit cheaper. Reviewing physical dimension's of all these, these should work just fine. Let me know how ya'll come along with the project !!
Dan M.
#15
My Feedback: (61)
i know this is an old thread but i thought i'd jump on and revive it as i just picked up one of these this week. i was wondering what servos you guys are using on the elevators. the servo called for only has like 60 oz. torque ? i jumped over to Xbus last spring and i want to using the xbus servos but they all look to big physically. Also ... can i get some more info on the direct steering setup? thanks guy , WB_1
#19
My Feedback: (61)
wanted to touch on the rudder issues i have been reading. i was warned by a friend to pay extra attention to the rudder hinges as he has witnessed 3 crash because of rudder failure/flutter. some have offered to add balsa blocks to hep support the hinge as it exits the trailing edge of the vertical fin . i got thinking about this ,and having built a few byron air frames i remembered their method of supporting the hinges on everything on the plane. here's a pic of the setup i used on my corsair. in these pics this is what byron said to do. i used a nail set to expand the tubing a bit because the rudder hinges on the viper have a little bigger dia. near the pivot point . what do you think? someone even suggested that they be replace with robarts. i have to wonder if some of the problem comes from exceeding skymasters speed limits of the air frame..
#20
My Feedback: (13)
Warbird,
I was the one that suggested replacing the rudder hinges with Robart. I remember the Byron trick and I think it will work. Mine broke in the shop and thankfully not in flight. I can't remember that particulars of how they broke but I remember being shocked at how brittle they were (vs the slight flex capability the Robarts have). Your idea to use the brass tubing to support the unsupported hinge is a good one, but their brittle nature still remains. To swap them out in the build is no biggie. To lose a great flying plane is of course.
I I redid the flaps on my Bv F-4 and ended up with a lot of unsupported hinge aft of wing (forward of the flap). After looking at it and hem/hawing a ton I ended up mixing up some milled fiber and epoxy and built a little ant hill around the unsupported hinge... MUCH more stable and that could work too as someone suggested above
I hope this helps
Dave
(still mad that I didn't charge my TX that day and lost this plane)
I was the one that suggested replacing the rudder hinges with Robart. I remember the Byron trick and I think it will work. Mine broke in the shop and thankfully not in flight. I can't remember that particulars of how they broke but I remember being shocked at how brittle they were (vs the slight flex capability the Robarts have). Your idea to use the brass tubing to support the unsupported hinge is a good one, but their brittle nature still remains. To swap them out in the build is no biggie. To lose a great flying plane is of course.
I I redid the flaps on my Bv F-4 and ended up with a lot of unsupported hinge aft of wing (forward of the flap). After looking at it and hem/hawing a ton I ended up mixing up some milled fiber and epoxy and built a little ant hill around the unsupported hinge... MUCH more stable and that could work too as someone suggested above
I hope this helps
Dave
(still mad that I didn't charge my TX that day and lost this plane)
#21
My Feedback: (61)
Warbird,
I was the one that suggested replacing the rudder hinges with Robart. I remember the Byron trick and I think it will work. Mine broke in the shop and thankfully not in flight. I can't remember that particulars of how they broke but I remember being shocked at how brittle they were (vs the slight flex capability the Robarts have). Your idea to use the brass tubing to support the unsupported hinge is a good one, but their brittle nature still remains. To swap them out in the build is no biggie. To lose a great flying plane is of course.
I I redid the flaps on my Bv F-4 and ended up with a lot of unsupported hinge aft of wing (forward of the flap). After looking at it and hem/hawing a ton I ended up mixing up some milled fiber and epoxy and built a little ant hill around the unsupported hinge... MUCH more stable and that could work too as someone suggested above
I hope this helps
Dave
(still mad that I didn't charge my TX that day and lost this plane)
I was the one that suggested replacing the rudder hinges with Robart. I remember the Byron trick and I think it will work. Mine broke in the shop and thankfully not in flight. I can't remember that particulars of how they broke but I remember being shocked at how brittle they were (vs the slight flex capability the Robarts have). Your idea to use the brass tubing to support the unsupported hinge is a good one, but their brittle nature still remains. To swap them out in the build is no biggie. To lose a great flying plane is of course.
I I redid the flaps on my Bv F-4 and ended up with a lot of unsupported hinge aft of wing (forward of the flap). After looking at it and hem/hawing a ton I ended up mixing up some milled fiber and epoxy and built a little ant hill around the unsupported hinge... MUCH more stable and that could work too as someone suggested above
I hope this helps
Dave
(still mad that I didn't charge my TX that day and lost this plane)
i haven't done the top one yet as i'm worried about breaking through the side while drilling them. i use a 1/8 bit in my dremal
and run it full bore to get a smooth melt through . then i slowly work my way around to melt the plastic and it works it's way out . generally it works 98 percent of the time. God knows i have drill a lot of them out. so.. good call WB_1
#22
i know this is an old thread but i thought i'd jump on and revive it as i just picked up one of these this week. i was wondering what servos you guys are using on the elevators. the servo called for only has like 60 oz. torque ? i jumped over to Xbus last spring and i want to using the xbus servos but they all look to big physically. Also ... can i get some more info on the direct steering setup? thanks guy , WB_1
Scott
#23
My Feedback: (61)
#24
thanks scott . i won't be flying it this year as i picked up a sprint from paul in vegas . i have been watching a lot of videos on the viper and they really do fly nice. Ali really showed the best of the plane in a video made of him flying one at FJ. Ben got a BD5 which i repainted for him . He'll need help with it when the time comes . i suggested you and him get together for the maiden . From the videos i have watched of them flying , they look like a good flyer as well.I did it up in the James bond colors. it was a lot of work but it turned out nice. i should be at the RCCR auction next week. grizz
See you at the swap meet.
Scott
#25
My Feedback: (61)
i had a couple more questions .... the bell mouth on the pipe is huge . can anyone tell me the proper setup/distance for the turbine to pipe? also ... i have two plastic " what looks to be control surface horns" . i was thinking either they were horns " which i don't really think they look like it" or possibly they would be attached to a servo horn for the pull/pull steering? BTW i have to say i'm really impressed with the quality of the finish. it's some of the nicest i've seen on an ARF . Thanks, WB_1