ECU battery question
#2
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I see no need for a switch.
I disconnect the plug from the ECU when not in use.
I use a LiPo for my ECU, and I never leave the battery in the airframe except between flights. I always recharge and store outside of the airframe.
I disconnect the plug from the ECU when not in use.
I use a LiPo for my ECU, and I never leave the battery in the airframe except between flights. I always recharge and store outside of the airframe.
#5
JetCat says not to use a switch. However, ... I do have a EC3 connector in between the battery and the ECU. They were O.K.with that. The reasons I use the EC3 are:
1. Have EC3 on all my Batteries thus I can use any of my batteries for the jet
2. Cuts down on the wear and tear of the connector to the ECU.
A switch is just another potential failure mechanism, unless you use a failsafe switch.
1. Have EC3 on all my Batteries thus I can use any of my batteries for the jet
2. Cuts down on the wear and tear of the connector to the ECU.
A switch is just another potential failure mechanism, unless you use a failsafe switch.
#6
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A time proven easy method for dealing with your batteries, is to mount them with Velcro®.
Both of my RC system batteries in my Ultra Bandit are mounted on industrial strength Velcro® and the ECU battery is tucked into the nose cone and is wrapped with foam rubber.
All three batteries in my new KIngCat are mounted with Velcro®, and will not loosen in flight. Same is true with my Super Bandit, and FA-18F.
I lengthen the battery cables as required for the installation, and make sure the cable is routed as to not interfere with any moving parts of the installation. (NG steering, brake servo, etc.).
Both of my RC system batteries in my Ultra Bandit are mounted on industrial strength Velcro® and the ECU battery is tucked into the nose cone and is wrapped with foam rubber.
All three batteries in my new KIngCat are mounted with Velcro®, and will not loosen in flight. Same is true with my Super Bandit, and FA-18F.
I lengthen the battery cables as required for the installation, and make sure the cable is routed as to not interfere with any moving parts of the installation. (NG steering, brake servo, etc.).
#7
Booma RC have a fail safe switch for this purpose. Not only is it a switch but also let's you turn it of as well via your TX as well.
They have excellent proven products which are tested and are great to deal with.
Ivan
They have excellent proven products which are tested and are great to deal with.
Ivan
#8
A time proven easy method for dealing with your batteries, is to mount them with Velcro®.
Both of my RC system batteries in my Ultra Bandit are mounted on industrial strength Velcro® and the ECU battery is tucked into the nose cone and is wrapped with foam rubber.
All three batteries in my new KIngCat are mounted with Velcro®, and will not loosen in flight. Same is true with my Super Bandit, and FA-18F.
I lengthen the battery cables as required for the installation, and make sure the cable is routed as to not interfere with any moving parts of the installation. (NG steering, brake servo, etc.).
Both of my RC system batteries in my Ultra Bandit are mounted on industrial strength Velcro® and the ECU battery is tucked into the nose cone and is wrapped with foam rubber.
All three batteries in my new KIngCat are mounted with Velcro®, and will not loosen in flight. Same is true with my Super Bandit, and FA-18F.
I lengthen the battery cables as required for the installation, and make sure the cable is routed as to not interfere with any moving parts of the installation. (NG steering, brake servo, etc.).
#9
My Feedback: (7)
I didn't want a switch and I didn't like unplugging the connector from the ECU all the time either. I made an "arming plug" out of a pair of deans connectors, connected them in series with the ECU batteries positive lead and mounted it in my equipment tray. I plug it in at the start of the days flying and remove it at the end of the day. When the plug is removed, it attaches to the equipment tray with a piece of velcro.
#10
I never use a switch between ECU battery and the ECU.. I connect the battery (2100 mah) and change to another one after four flights.... BUT before going home I disconnect the battery... Most ECU's have a little draw which over time can kill the battery, so remember to disconnect at the end of flying day...
#14
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There are three good ones that I use. The best, but somewhat costley is the Emcotec battery backer, you can run two battires just as we do on the receivers. I have two of these and I'm running two Duralite 9.9 volt 2100 Life battires, it has a charge port on the backer, I charge as one battery (4200mah). The secound is a Emcotec DPS failsafe pin switch. The third is a ECU stitch made by Duralite, you can order it with MPX or Deans connectors. I have been using a switch between the turbin and ECU for about ten years with no issues. I run LiFepo or Magnum-ion battires so I can tuck them away in the jet.
#15
I forgot to mention that I use LiPos and never charge them in the plane. So, ... they have to come out and be plugged back in anyway. So, I never really needed a switch on the ECU.
My Powerbox Rxers have the failsafe switch. But, Again, I never leave those batteries in anyway. So I would not even have that switch if the PB did not need it to run.
I did put a Smart-Fly Power Expander in the Checkmate with the optional failsafe pin-switch just to give it a try. But, it is not required as the batteries come out of that plane too.
My Powerbox Rxers have the failsafe switch. But, Again, I never leave those batteries in anyway. So I would not even have that switch if the PB did not need it to run.
I did put a Smart-Fly Power Expander in the Checkmate with the optional failsafe pin-switch just to give it a try. But, it is not required as the batteries come out of that plane too.
#19
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Location: PerthWestern Australia, AUSTRALIA
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ECU Switches that can be turned off in the airframe and remotely by the TX are a requirement in Australia, I think that is where this comment is coming from. The booma RC switches achieve this, and are now being sold overseas which is where people would be seeing them.
This requirement is outdated from the days of manual start and home built turbines and is being reviewed I believe.
This requirement is outdated from the days of manual start and home built turbines and is being reviewed I believe.
#22
I am using these dbl switches that show real time voltage in my T-33. It alternates the voltage reading between the 2 packs every 2 seconds. It is rated up to 13V, 15A. I have the top switch for my 2 receiver packs, the lower switch is for my ECU and Smoke battery. I have not had any issues using the switch between the ECU and battery.
#23
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I am sure the additional information helped someone, even if it didn't help you.
Last edited by Harley Condra; 09-24-2014 at 10:30 AM.