SushiHunter

In regards to this tail cone, not sure how long that will stick back from the EDF unit but you may need to get the EDF unit somewhat in the bird and then attach that cone to the back of the EDF unit. It's a tight fit, especially with a greater powered aftermarket EDF unit.

Pull Up Now!

My Feedback: (3)

Just finished installing the nosegear retract, and made my own retract door. I found it tricky to make an effective gear door closer without using a 2nd servo. I'm trying to keep the weight down. This system is working for about 30 cycles so far, no problem. Here's a video. http://youtu.be/wLiLpM6KzDE

rking3

Very nice. Here is another option for those looking for one, I am installing this on mine.

http://www.effluxrc.com/Habu-32-Nose...or-HABND-1.htm

Pull Up Now!

My Feedback: (3)

The Efflux system looks a bit rough to me. I don't like tying things to the retract. Also, bungees lose their elasticity, especially if you store the plane with the gear closed. My spring will never lose it's tension as long as it's metal is not yielded. Also, the efflux door can flop around and rub on the strut during takeoff and landings because nothing holds it open. On my system, the spring I used holds the door locked open by taking advantage of the spring's natural ability to snap straight once the door is open. It never rubs on the strut once the gear is out. Also, one has to sand smooth and somehow fill the scar left by having their bungee poke thru the hole in the door. I also wonder how securely the door is held shut once the gear is retracted due to the location of that hole in the door. Maybe none of these concerns are going to show up, so let us know how it works.

SushiHunter

I did the one on my Habu pretty much just like you did, However, instead of bungi cord, I used material (wire) that you use to tie house plants to stakes, so it's very small and flexible. I also used a small magnet and piece of metal for a locking assist. because I had seen a very interesting concept on youtube with it. I also got hinges from my local hobby shop which is specifically for such doors on aircraft. Also had to do a little sanding on the four corners of the door itself so it would fit down perfectly. Plus had to bend the plastic door just a tad so it would close all the way, as the factory tire does seem to take up a lot of space. One end of the wire is attached to the gear door while the other end is attached to a very small spring which is then attached to the fuse.

Here's the video of the magnet assist that I saw on youtube some months back. I did mine basically the same way. On mine though, I used metal wire with a spring within the linkage.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZlJXHYaYEs

Pull Up Now!

My Feedback: (3)

Hi SushiHunter,

I watched the video link you provided. It seems to work ok. Reliability is the most important thing. it's simple and doesn't rely on an extra servo, so that's good. What I don't like about it is the door is constantly rubbing on that block, and the door will flap back and forth during steering. I like the spring because the same thing that holds the door shut is also what holds it open. Completely elegant, from a design point of view. On the other hand, if I was as good a pilot as I am a door designer, I'd still have a silver-red Habu instead of a yellow one. ha ha.

SushiHunter

Yeah, been there done that myself, not with a Habu 32 though. Yeah we can laugh now but it wasn't too funny (well for me anyways) right when it happened. I'm not sure what block the gear is rubbing on that you're talking about though. The way I did mine was, I wasn't able to find a spring small enough to fit in the area, yet not too strong for the retract to open/close against such tension. The way mine works is the spring keeps pressure on the door while it's open so it rests against the gear strut when the gear is deployed. Once the gear strut is retracted, the strut pulls the door closed via the wire/spring linkage. The magnet assist. method is nice because it pulls the door closed when the metal that is glued to the inside corner of the door gets close enough to it. But the magnet is small enough so it's not a problem for the bond between the magnet and the small piece of metal to be broken when the gear deploys.

Another very important thing is the hinges used. I got some really cool hinges from my local hobby shop which pulls the gear door completely flush with the outside of the fuse when closed but when opening, pushes the door out and away from the fuse.

The hinges I used are almost like the ones shown below. The actual ones I used are slightly different, but this type is very close:

ACE51

My Feedback: (3)

I played with a nose gear door and final realized it was not worth the hassle as I could not get it to work properly 100% of the time without a servo, it might work fine on the ground but once airborne it would get caught up by turbulence etc. This is just my personal opinion.

David, how do you secure your fuel cell/tank? I have removed the battery tray and fit the tank in that location, but I am uncertain of how to securely mount it, Velcro? Sorry for my ignorance, this is my first turbine build.

I officially started my build last night.

Dave Wilshere

Yes, 2" wide HD velcro is all I used

Dave

husafreak

My Feedback: (3)

Here is a link to the Tamjets landing gear and door setup video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HL-63z6_rBk

Pull Up Now!

My Feedback: (3)

With velcro, the weak link isn't usually the loop and pile but it's the double sticky tape holding to the fiberglass. Especially if it's not a flat surface. if you're not certain, use goop brand glue. It's semi flexible, clear, and sticks especially well to fiberglass even if the fiberglass gets bumped from the outside

ACE51

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks for the advice, I'll epoxy the lower section of velcro to the fiberglass or search for an alternative.

...now, on receiver power. I have been using 800 mAh 2S lipos and a 10A BEC, I have read about a few BEC failures and have considered going to a 1100 mah LIFE pack straight to the receiver however, the A4030 servos that I use are HV and put out their best speed/power at 8.4V, the life would only be putting out 6.6V, I do not think I am experienced enough to notice a difference, but I think it would be best to "use what you paid for." Has anyone here actually ever had a BEC failure?

Edit, just dawned on me, would it be better to plug my lipo straight into the receiver, should be around 8.4V fully charged.

LA jetguy

I'm using MKS HV93 servos and have a 1350 lipo plugged directly into the receiver...

Pull Up Now!

My Feedback: (3)

http://youtu.be/1d-cwZVbm9Q To use a 2S lipo for the receiver, don't forget to check the receiver voltage specs too(as opposed to just the servos). My last Habu used a regulator with a separate 2S battery, but I didn't like the extra weight. This time, I'm using a Castle HV with a 20 amp BEC built in. Lightest setup I can imagine. Weight matters. It's all about the Weight, not the trouble not the trouble.

Here's video of my nosegear door setup. Similar to the Tamjet, but using an off the shelf spring.

ACE51

My Feedback: (3)

Ok, I will probably just stick with my 2S lipo's and 10A BEC. My receiver is rated to handle over 9V.

David, do you use a FOD screen in the Habu?

smaze17

My Feedback: (60)

If you're using HV servos, why use a BEC at all? Just plug your 2S Lipo straight into the receiver. Am I missing something?

ACE51

My Feedback: (3)

I might just do that, the only issue I have is that e-flite retracts are only rated to 7.4V

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

7.4 V rating means a 2S Lipo

LA jetguy

Im using 2S Lipo with MKS HV servos, Tam struts (changed trunion) with eflite retracts on 8S.. Works perfectly...

ACE51

My Feedback: (3)

But isn't a 2S lipo ~8.4V fully charged?

BarracudaHockey

My Feedback: (11)

Its the same as a 4.8 volt rated servo that is for a fully charged 4 cell pack, that has a nominal 4.8v but is 5.5v or so fully charged, or a 6v rating that means a 5 cell pack. 7.4v rating means its good for a 2S pack.

Pull Up Now!

My Feedback: (3)

"If you're using HV servos, why use a BEC at all? Just plug your 2S Lipo straight into the receiver. Am I missing something?"
************************************************** ************************************************** **************************************
Because you can save the weight of an extra battery. Remember, batteries don't get any lighter when they're empty. The BEC is already there anyway, so why not use it?

smaze17

My Feedback: (60)

A valid point

ACE51

My Feedback: (3)

Finished the 32X-T build, the wife was out of town this weekend... I was not able to find pictures of anyone's layout/turbine support mounting so hopefully these pictures will be helpful to anyone wanted to do a conversion, although I'm sure Dave will post pictures of his setup. 128 OZ full fuel AUW. CG is 110 with full tanks and 120 empty, had to add 5 OZ of weight to the nose next to the nose wheel retract.


... now I see that Tam Jet has a Kevlar 32OZ tank for the Habu's

smaze17

My Feedback: (60)

Looks great Ace!!