BVM T-33 Luftwaffe
12-09-2014, 06:10 PM
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BVM T-33 Luftwaffe
Put together BVM T-33 and painted it in Luftwaffe scheme. This is old kit that that still flys great. Was in primer for 10 years!
12-09-2014, 08:31 PM
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Used Krylon rattle can 'dull aluminum' for bottom as almost perfect match for the silverweiss. Used Krylon spray olive Green and Testors Modelmaster spray navy ww2 medium blue grey for top. Used 'Chrysler engine orange 'in spray can for orange stuff. Weathered with pastel chalk
12-10-2014, 12:05 PM
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Hi Vince,
In the 'picture hanger department ' of Home Depot or Lowes there is removeable picture hanger material that comes in a celephane pack that looks and feels like silly putty. It is blue. It comes in squares. It is sticky but no residue. Roll it into long skinny worms about a 1/4 inch thick. Take thin poster paper, cut out camo designs, place on plane, put the sticky blue stuff under it about 1/4 inch from edge, press down then spray. You have soft edge!
In the 'picture hanger department ' of Home Depot or Lowes there is removeable picture hanger material that comes in a celephane pack that looks and feels like silly putty. It is blue. It comes in squares. It is sticky but no residue. Roll it into long skinny worms about a 1/4 inch thick. Take thin poster paper, cut out camo designs, place on plane, put the sticky blue stuff under it about 1/4 inch from edge, press down then spray. You have soft edge!
12-10-2014, 12:07 PM
#9
If its the original BVM T33 don't forget to fill in the undercamber of the wing root section.
The "cusp" of this area makes it VERY prone to tip stalling and spinning. Been there done that !
I am told the fullsize could be quite exciting at the stall !
Filling in the cusp totally eliminates this problem and it becomes a fine flying machine.
David
The "cusp" of this area makes it VERY prone to tip stalling and spinning. Been there done that !
I am told the fullsize could be quite exciting at the stall !
Filling in the cusp totally eliminates this problem and it becomes a fine flying machine.
David
12-10-2014, 03:10 PM
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I don't want to hijack this thread but I used 3M foam tape to get the soft edges. It is the round foam with adhesive
on one side. When painting a car it is used for the door jams. It works great. Mike
12-10-2014, 04:19 PM
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Back in the day after Bob had introduced his P-80 Shooting Star which was a great flyer, us folks who bought his T-33 were expecting the same great flying habits and heard word that the scale undercamber at the root could cause problems for some flyers so the fix helped. It has always been my favorite jet. Easy to see with those huge tip tanks, millions of color schemes to pick from, and as kids growing up in the fifties and sixties they were at every airbase and airshow my dad took me.
12-10-2014, 05:38 PM
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Back in the day after Bob had introduced his P-80 Shooting Star which was a great flyer, us folks who bought his T-33 were expecting the same great flying habits and heard word that the scale undercamber at the root could cause problems for some flyers so the fix helped. It has always been my favorite jet. Easy to see with those huge tip tanks, millions of color schemes to pick from, and as kids growing up in the fifties and sixties they were at every airbase and airshow my dad took me.
12-11-2014, 05:09 AM
#15
Used Krylon rattle can 'dull aluminum' for bottom as almost perfect match for the silverweiss. Used Krylon spray olive Green and Testors Modelmaster spray navy ww2 medium blue grey for top. Used 'Chrysler engine orange 'in spray can for orange stuff. Weathered with pastel chalk
Thx Vin...
12-11-2014, 05:54 AM
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I have about 200 hours in the full scale back in the late 50's and I don't remember landings being any problem. The full scale had an angle aluminum piece on the leading edge near the root of the wing about 2 ft long. I think that helped the root stall slightly before the tips.
Landing my BVM ducted fan model was a different story. Like someone else said it wasn't consistent. I never did the cusp mod.
Landing my BVM ducted fan model was a different story. Like someone else said it wasn't consistent. I never did the cusp mod.
12-11-2014, 09:49 AM
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Hi Vince,
made stencils for for the black and white crosses, had local Sign-0-rama make the numbers for $ 5 dollars and he gave me scrap red, yellow and black to make tail markings. For tail sheild and fuse warning marking I blew-up plastic model decals with MS Paint program and printed out correct size markings on white decal paper. I cleared everything with Krylon's new Matt Clear. It's gas and kero proof, but not hot nitro proof.
made stencils for for the black and white crosses, had local Sign-0-rama make the numbers for $ 5 dollars and he gave me scrap red, yellow and black to make tail markings. For tail sheild and fuse warning marking I blew-up plastic model decals with MS Paint program and printed out correct size markings on white decal paper. I cleared everything with Krylon's new Matt Clear. It's gas and kero proof, but not hot nitro proof.
12-11-2014, 12:43 PM
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Sean,
i saw your video! You inspired me to do the lufwaffe scheme. Thanks so much. BTW, one of my flying buddies in our Detroit area club had on of the first generation Avond F-104. He did it in RCAF silver and orange scheme. Made it on the cover of Jet International. He flew it with a Dynamax and OS 90. Flew great but always had trouble with the door sequencer.
i saw your video! You inspired me to do the lufwaffe scheme. Thanks so much. BTW, one of my flying buddies in our Detroit area club had on of the first generation Avond F-104. He did it in RCAF silver and orange scheme. Made it on the cover of Jet International. He flew it with a Dynamax and OS 90. Flew great but always had trouble with the door sequencer.
