Navy F3H Demon
01-01-2015, 06:33 PM
#26
Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (10)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Brighton,
MI
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Started priming, put on "guide coat" to find defects, and finally placed canopy on caused it looked cool. Will take couple of days of sanding and primer to get to point to add panel lines and ready to paint.
01-02-2015, 11:09 AM
#28
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: farnborough, , UNITED KINGDOM
Posts: 3,294
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Hi looks like a nice project to resurrect an old kit, admire your vision 
Only one comment however is the wing 'spar' which looking at the cut out is a 'blade' type - might be worth considering a mod to a tube for better safety margin as blades to have a tendency to cut through wings!
marcs
Only one comment however is the wing 'spar' which looking at the cut out is a 'blade' type - might be worth considering a mod to a tube for better safety margin as blades to have a tendency to cut through wings!
marcs
01-02-2015, 07:38 PM
#29
Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (10)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Brighton,
MI
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Marc, Had to go with blades as wing is very thin. I used Carbon fiber mat on top and bottom under wing skins for exactly your concern.
Attached photos show how I use roller brush to prime wings and most flat surfaces. As I prefer automotive 2 part primer for strength and heavy fill capabilities it's much more convenient with a roller brush as I don't have to get out spray equipment.
Attached photos show how I use roller brush to prime wings and most flat surfaces. As I prefer automotive 2 part primer for strength and heavy fill capabilities it's much more convenient with a roller brush as I don't have to get out spray equipment.
01-25-2015, 05:25 PM
#30
Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (10)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Brighton,
MI
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Work kept me away for awhile . Put 1/32 tape for wing panel lines. Then sprayed on SEM brand primer that you can only buy at automotive paint supply places. (It is very thick, heavy fill, flexible polyurathane primer made specifically for fiberglass.) I removed tape while primer was still wet and left beautiful deep panel lines.
01-27-2015, 06:14 PM
#31
Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (10)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Brighton,
MI
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The nice thing about 'short run' airplanes is that you will have an unique plane. The bad thing is they are a whole lot of work! Started sanding down primer to find high and low spots. Will need about 2 more coats to get it ready for panel lines.
BTW, as I look through the other jets on this forum I get a kick out of the folks who are 'building' a kit like a pre-fab and painted Skymasters. They are 'assembling' not 'building'. Ah, the English language.
BTW, as I look through the other jets on this forum I get a kick out of the folks who are 'building' a kit like a pre-fab and painted Skymasters. They are 'assembling' not 'building'. Ah, the English language.
01-28-2015, 03:40 AM
#32
Hi just to let you know that WARPAINT Books have just released their book on the DEMON. This usually contains lots of color schemes and scale drawings.
http://www.guidelinepublications.co....ONTENT=83&P1=0
http://www.guidelinepublications.co....ONTENT=83&P1=0
01-28-2015, 06:49 AM
#33
Kindle version of Detail and Scale are nice too.
http://www.detailandscale.com/f3h_de...ital_book.html
02-02-2015, 06:51 PM
#34
Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (10)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Brighton,
MI
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Evercoat has come out with a new automotive 2 part glazing putty called (Premium Putty) (Blue Label) that is simply the best I have ever used. Great adhesion, flows great, spreads like warm butter, feathers better than anything I've ever tried, fills pinholes, and sands easier than the old red oxide lacquer putty.
02-26-2015, 07:45 PM
#38
Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (10)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Brighton,
MI
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Nice thing about living in Michigan this year is we will get 10 months of winter instead of our usual 9. So we get an extra month to build....yeah. So...tonight I decided to paint the fuse. I start by wiping down the fuse with Zippo lighter fluid and paper towels. It's cheap and prevents fish eyes in the paint. Then right before I paint, I wipe down with cheese-cloth to remove dust and stuff. I use Krylon brand, spray-can paints, for white, black, and most primary colors. Krylon can be masked 15 minutes after you spray it.
For military colors I use Testors Modelmasters, both in spay can and the small bottles. In this case it is US Navy, Gull Grey FS 36440. The white and black was Krylon spray can. I used 4 Testors spray cans.( I will the small bottle for touch up with my airbrush). About $35 dollars total. As I wanted the soft-edge for paint demarcation, I used 3M edging foam( see photo. Anyway, here are photos of process.
For military colors I use Testors Modelmasters, both in spay can and the small bottles. In this case it is US Navy, Gull Grey FS 36440. The white and black was Krylon spray can. I used 4 Testors spray cans.( I will the small bottle for touch up with my airbrush). About $35 dollars total. As I wanted the soft-edge for paint demarcation, I used 3M edging foam( see photo. Anyway, here are photos of process.
02-26-2015, 08:05 PM
#42
Member
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (10)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Brighton,
MI
Posts: 89
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Next step is paint silver leading edges on flying surfaces and wait for decals. I've decided to do a early F-3B that flew off the USS SHANGRI-LA. This one.
02-28-2015, 08:39 AM
#46
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Beeton, Ontario, CANADA
Posts: 1,337
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
4 Posts
Looks great Jets. Have you considered using Alclade metal paints.? Its real metal dissolved in lacquer. You spray it on and then buff it to what ever sheen you desire. It doesnt have that grainy look that regular paints have. http://alclad2.com/
02-28-2015, 11:32 AM
#49
Join Date: Sep 2007
Location: Beeton, Ontario, CANADA
Posts: 1,337
Likes: 0
Received 5 Likes
on
4 Posts
Its actually a very big issue. If the turbine cant get it air from the front, it will suck air from the back ie. hot exhaust gasses being drawn back in. I was building a small ME-163 when someone posted how his larger one burned in the air cause it couldnt get enough air and did what I mentioned above. Grumania Pipes also mentions that if a turbine does not get enough air that the pipe could over heat and collapse.
Its something that should be addressed before the maiden.
There is some formula out there that tells you the required intake size for your engine depending on what your using... but I dont know where that is now.
Chrigui from Italia has build and flown one. Perhaps he could comment.
Its something that should be addressed before the maiden.
There is some formula out there that tells you the required intake size for your engine depending on what your using... but I dont know where that is now.
Chrigui from Italia has build and flown one. Perhaps he could comment.
Last edited by Vettster; 02-28-2015 at 11:43 AM.