Unilight System
#26
#27
I think you may have heard back from Ulrich already but just in case:
The dual lights contain 2 LEDs. They have a common supply wire (red) and each LED has its own ground (black) wire. The separate black wires allow each of the LEDs (e.g. nav light and strobe) to be controlled independently.
You need one resistor in each of the black wires for 3s.
However, unless you are tapping off from a 3s battery that you already have installed then 2s is the preferred option.
The dual lights contain 2 LEDs. They have a common supply wire (red) and each LED has its own ground (black) wire. The separate black wires allow each of the LEDs (e.g. nav light and strobe) to be controlled independently.
You need one resistor in each of the black wires for 3s.
However, unless you are tapping off from a 3s battery that you already have installed then 2s is the preferred option.
Last edited by siclick33; 09-10-2016 at 07:06 AM.
#28
I think you may have heard back from Ulrich already but just in case:
The dual lights contain 2 LEDs. They have a common supply wire (red) and each LED has its own ground (black) wire. The separate black wires allow each of the LEDs (e.g. nav light and strobe) to be controlled independently.
You need one resistor in each of the black wires for 3s.
However, unless you are tapping off from a 3s battery that you already have installed then 2s is the preferred option.
The dual lights contain 2 LEDs. They have a common supply wire (red) and each LED has its own ground (black) wire. The separate black wires allow each of the LEDs (e.g. nav light and strobe) to be controlled independently.
You need one resistor in each of the black wires for 3s.
However, unless you are tapping off from a 3s battery that you already have installed then 2s is the preferred option.
siclick is absolutely correct, one resistor in each black wire then!
#29
I think you may have heard back from Ulrich already but just in case:
The dual lights contain 2 LEDs. They have a common supply wire (red) and each LED has its own ground (black) wire. The separate black wires allow each of the LEDs (e.g. nav light and strobe) to be controlled independently.
You need one resistor in each of the black wires for 3s.
However, unless you are tapping off from a 3s battery that you already have installed then 2s is the preferred option.
The dual lights contain 2 LEDs. They have a common supply wire (red) and each LED has its own ground (black) wire. The separate black wires allow each of the LEDs (e.g. nav light and strobe) to be controlled independently.
You need one resistor in each of the black wires for 3s.
However, unless you are tapping off from a 3s battery that you already have installed then 2s is the preferred option.
Thanks Fella's. lol Unilight did get back with me. And both of you are correct. Dual lights come with two Resistors and both are to be used on both Black wires. The single black wire that already has one in line will be added with a second in line. I will work on them today Once again thank you all for your help.
#32
My Feedback: (114)
Darn! I was under the impression that the light would strobe by itself w/o the unilight controller. I really wish Dreamworks would specifically state on their site that the controller is needed for the light to strobe. In addition, I thought the unilight controller could make any light you want to strobe so I'm not sure why some are labeled strobes and others are not...The cheapo $3 light I bought from HK strobes by itself!
#33
My Feedback: (3)
Darn! I was under the impression that the light would strobe by itself w/o the unilight controller. I really wish Dreamworks would specifically state on their site that the controller is needed for the light to strobe. In addition, I thought the unilight controller could make any light you want to strobe so I'm not sure why some are labeled strobes and others are not...The cheapo $3 light I bought from HK strobes by itself!
#34
Darn! I was under the impression that the light would strobe by itself w/o the unilight controller. I really wish Dreamworks would specifically state on their site that the controller is needed for the light to strobe. In addition, I thought the unilight controller could make any light you want to strobe so I'm not sure why some are labeled strobes and others are not...The cheapo $3 light I bought from HK strobes by itself!
#36
If you are just using the 'strobe' then you can use the single channel uniLight Black 1 controller. This doesn't need to be connected to the receiver but can be set to blink your LED.
#38
The 4-channel controller needs an RX channel. If you don't have a spare RX channel then the lights will need to be turned on before flight. Presumably you want the nav lights on all the time? If so, you can just power them up without a controller. If you want the white beacon to flash then use the Black 1 controller which doesn't need an RX input. Make sure that the lights are sufficiently cooled so that they don't overheat whilst starting/taxiing etc.
#39
My Feedback: (114)
Well...Finally got my unilights installed and I must say I'm very happy!! In about 2 hours, I had everything installed on the jet and setup through the TX. Would have gone quicker, but I needed to Y the two nav/strobe lights because I'm using the 4ch controller..didn't realize unilights sells the Y cables, but nevertheless it all worked out. The 4w x2 nav/strobe lights are pretty awesome and I'm sure I'll be putting them on a lot more of my models in the future. And thanks to everyone on this thread who helped answer any unilight related questions. Helped a bunch
#40
Agree, its a nice and easy system to install!
We see a lot of the guys here in Denmark installing lights in most of their jets, a year ago only scale planes had lights, now a lot of sportjets have Unilights installed
We see a lot of the guys here in Denmark installing lights in most of their jets, a year ago only scale planes had lights, now a lot of sportjets have Unilights installed
#41
Hello? Anyone still around? I bought a few unilights for my Z B25 (strobes, landing lights), and have a few questions regarding mounting... How are you guys attaching these? Is it ok to epoxy in place? Wood mts? Silicone? I email Alex, but he only responded to one of the questions I had.... Any input would help.. Thanks in advance!
#42
My Feedback: (18)
Yes, that vacuum-former is from my neck of the woods..(dentistry) They last forever, I have three of them that are 25-30 years old. The sheets are 4"x4", perfect for making light bezels :-) Ebay may sell them, they have them for $86. Mine are much different than the ones showing there, guessing chinese.... but for the limited time you would use it as a modeler, might be fine. Ours is used every day, not many moving parts.
I made my yak-130 bezels with it :-)
I made my yak-130 bezels with it :-)
#46
Raf...
Mike and I use the lights and the 4ch controller in our Viperjets when we fly formation. We have over 125 flights with that setup and no problems with either the lights or the controller. We also punish them a little more than average by leaving the landing lights (six of them in each airplane) on for the entire flight.
KennyMac
Mike and I use the lights and the 4ch controller in our Viperjets when we fly formation. We have over 125 flights with that setup and no problems with either the lights or the controller. We also punish them a little more than average by leaving the landing lights (six of them in each airplane) on for the entire flight.
KennyMac
#47
My Feedback: (6)
I am doing the Tucano with Unilights. My first try with this type of lighting. Thanks for the offer on the files. I guess I could see if that is the style and form that I could use. I have a friends parents that has a 3d printer. If talking to him, what software would he need to print it?
Thanks Alan