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Old 09-09-2016, 10:56 PM
  #26  
JoeJr1485
 
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Originally Posted by Carsten Groen
Then you need to check with Unilight, the ones I have/is using, only had 1 extra resistor to use if running on 3S !!
lol Yeah I am going to check. Thank you so much for all your help.
Old 09-10-2016, 07:03 AM
  #27  
siclick33
 
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I think you may have heard back from Ulrich already but just in case:

The dual lights contain 2 LEDs. They have a common supply wire (red) and each LED has its own ground (black) wire. The separate black wires allow each of the LEDs (e.g. nav light and strobe) to be controlled independently.

You need one resistor in each of the black wires for 3s.

However, unless you are tapping off from a 3s battery that you already have installed then 2s is the preferred option.

Last edited by siclick33; 09-10-2016 at 07:06 AM.
Old 09-10-2016, 07:22 AM
  #28  
Carsten Groen
 
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Originally Posted by siclick33
I think you may have heard back from Ulrich already but just in case:

The dual lights contain 2 LEDs. They have a common supply wire (red) and each LED has its own ground (black) wire. The separate black wires allow each of the LEDs (e.g. nav light and strobe) to be controlled independently.

You need one resistor in each of the black wires for 3s.

However, unless you are tapping off from a 3s battery that you already have installed then 2s is the preferred option.
Ahhh, I did not catch it was a combined light (with two LED's), sorry for that
siclick is absolutely correct, one resistor in each black wire then!
Old 09-10-2016, 12:39 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by siclick33
I think you may have heard back from Ulrich already but just in case:

The dual lights contain 2 LEDs. They have a common supply wire (red) and each LED has its own ground (black) wire. The separate black wires allow each of the LEDs (e.g. nav light and strobe) to be controlled independently.

You need one resistor in each of the black wires for 3s.

However, unless you are tapping off from a 3s battery that you already have installed then 2s is the preferred option.
Originally Posted by Carsten Groen
Ahhh, I did not catch it was a combined light (with two LED's), sorry for that
siclick is absolutely correct, one resistor in each black wire then!

Thanks Fella's. lol Unilight did get back with me. And both of you are correct. Dual lights come with two Resistors and both are to be used on both Black wires. The single black wire that already has one in line will be added with a second in line. I will work on them today Once again thank you all for your help.
Old 09-12-2016, 07:03 PM
  #30  
txshan130
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Ok so I bought a 4w unilight strobe from dreamworks and it arrived today. I powered it up via 2s lipo, but it does not strobe, it's just solid white. Am I missing something?
Old 09-12-2016, 08:27 PM
  #31  
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You need one of their controllers, the light does not blink/strobe by itself
Old 09-13-2016, 09:22 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Carsten Groen
You need one of their controllers, the light does not blink/strobe by itself
Darn! I was under the impression that the light would strobe by itself w/o the unilight controller. I really wish Dreamworks would specifically state on their site that the controller is needed for the light to strobe. In addition, I thought the unilight controller could make any light you want to strobe so I'm not sure why some are labeled strobes and others are not...The cheapo $3 light I bought from HK strobes by itself!
Old 09-13-2016, 09:34 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by txshan130
Darn! I was under the impression that the light would strobe by itself w/o the unilight controller. I really wish Dreamworks would specifically state on their site that the controller is needed for the light to strobe. In addition, I thought the unilight controller could make any light you want to strobe so I'm not sure why some are labeled strobes and others are not...The cheapo $3 light I bought from HK strobes by itself!
I think that the ones labeled strobes will overheat if burned constantly unless you add additional heat sinks and cooling air.
Old 09-13-2016, 09:55 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by txshan130
Darn! I was under the impression that the light would strobe by itself w/o the unilight controller. I really wish Dreamworks would specifically state on their site that the controller is needed for the light to strobe. In addition, I thought the unilight controller could make any light you want to strobe so I'm not sure why some are labeled strobes and others are not...The cheapo $3 light I bought from HK strobes by itself!
You have to understand how they were designed. The Unilights are designed to run off the board. The reason for this is so that you can choose to between scale light patterns. Also the components used in the light maybe a little different such as to handle more power and are brighter. Could Unilight develop them to what you are looking for? yes but then the pattern that is scale may not be possible. The switching mech. within the HK light can only switch so fast before it burns up. the internals of the light has to be able to handle the load at the rate. That is one of the reasons to use the controller board. Dreamsworks labeled it correctly on their website b/c its the same txt as on the Unilight sight.
Old 09-13-2016, 10:13 AM
  #35  
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Alright I guess I will be getting the controller. I was holding because I was unsure or not if the unilights controller takes up a channel on the receiver? I am maxed out right now on my receiver.
Old 09-13-2016, 10:19 AM
  #36  
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If you are just using the 'strobe' then you can use the single channel uniLight Black 1 controller. This doesn't need to be connected to the receiver but can be set to blink your LED.
Old 10-09-2016, 11:23 AM
  #37  
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Regarding the 4 ch controller , is there anyway to use one without using a channel on the receiver? I plan to have navigation lights and a white beacon light as well
Old 10-09-2016, 11:31 AM
  #38  
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The 4-channel controller needs an RX channel. If you don't have a spare RX channel then the lights will need to be turned on before flight. Presumably you want the nav lights on all the time? If so, you can just power them up without a controller. If you want the white beacon to flash then use the Black 1 controller which doesn't need an RX input. Make sure that the lights are sufficiently cooled so that they don't overheat whilst starting/taxiing etc.
Old 11-10-2016, 10:44 PM
  #39  
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Well...Finally got my unilights installed and I must say I'm very happy!! In about 2 hours, I had everything installed on the jet and setup through the TX. Would have gone quicker, but I needed to Y the two nav/strobe lights because I'm using the 4ch controller..didn't realize unilights sells the Y cables, but nevertheless it all worked out. The 4w x2 nav/strobe lights are pretty awesome and I'm sure I'll be putting them on a lot more of my models in the future. And thanks to everyone on this thread who helped answer any unilight related questions. Helped a bunch
Old 11-10-2016, 10:46 PM
  #40  
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Agree, its a nice and easy system to install!
We see a lot of the guys here in Denmark installing lights in most of their jets, a year ago only scale planes had lights, now a lot of sportjets have Unilights installed
Old 01-17-2017, 06:29 PM
  #41  
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Hello? Anyone still around? I bought a few unilights for my Z B25 (strobes, landing lights), and have a few questions regarding mounting... How are you guys attaching these? Is it ok to epoxy in place? Wood mts? Silicone? I email Alex, but he only responded to one of the questions I had.... Any input would help.. Thanks in advance!
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Old 01-19-2017, 06:03 AM
  #42  
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Yes, that vacuum-former is from my neck of the woods..(dentistry) They last forever, I have three of them that are 25-30 years old. The sheets are 4"x4", perfect for making light bezels :-) Ebay may sell them, they have them for $86. Mine are much different than the ones showing there, guessing chinese.... but for the limited time you would use it as a modeler, might be fine. Ours is used every day, not many moving parts.

I made my yak-130 bezels with it :-)



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Old 01-19-2017, 09:28 AM
  #43  
AKB
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HI Mike
Unless you have the 3d printer how do you get the moulds. How's the PC 21?

Thanks Alan
Old 01-19-2017, 09:45 AM
  #44  
DrScoles
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Hey Alan, Kinda have to have a 3D printer, and one SLA type, not filament. Big difference on the accuracy. I would be more than happy to share the files. Haven't flown the PC-21 yet, its balanced, charged and ready to go... just need mother nature to cooperate!
Old 01-19-2017, 11:35 AM
  #45  
ravill
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How are the unilights holding up with time?

Any burnt units out there?
Old 01-19-2017, 12:44 PM
  #46  
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Raf...
Mike and I use the lights and the 4ch controller in our Viperjets when we fly formation. We have over 125 flights with that setup and no problems with either the lights or the controller. We also punish them a little more than average by leaving the landing lights (six of them in each airplane) on for the entire flight.

KennyMac
Old 01-19-2017, 04:17 PM
  #47  
AKB
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Originally Posted by DrScoles
Hey Alan, Kinda have to have a 3D printer, and one SLA type, not filament. Big difference on the accuracy. I would be more than happy to share the files. Haven't flown the PC-21 yet, its balanced, charged and ready to go... just need mother nature to cooperate!
Ya Mike
I am doing the Tucano with Unilights. My first try with this type of lighting. Thanks for the offer on the files. I guess I could see if that is the style and form that I could use. I have a friends parents that has a 3d printer. If talking to him, what software would he need to print it?

Thanks Alan
Old 01-19-2017, 04:35 PM
  #48  
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most of the software is universal. what do you have in mind to have made? I might be able to help you with design. Do you have lights on your A-10? I have started painting and adding nomenclature to my Sky master A-10 :-)
Old 01-19-2017, 07:14 PM
  #49  
AKB
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Mike I have borrowed these pictures from a Tucano build thread on here. I hope you can make these out to give a feel for the type of lens I may need.


Yes my lights on the A-10 came from Mibo. There not too bad and fairly easy to set up.
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Old 01-19-2017, 07:30 PM
  #50  
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You need a vacuum-former for those wing lights, not a 3d printer :-) the landing light I could make for you.


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