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Skymaster/Chief Aircraft F-14 assembly

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Old 01-21-2015, 07:03 PM
  #26  
FenderBean
 
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Yeah I wanted to start with the part I hate most. Lol
Old 01-27-2015, 08:22 PM
  #27  
PowerBoxDanny
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Sorry I have not been able to get back on here to post some progress. Myself and the rest of the Chief Aircraft team have been working hard on getting a few birds ready for Florida Jets. We have two of the new Krill Avanti's that we are also building while I build this F-14.

I was able to get the tanks plumbed and installed, front radio tray also in and painted. UAT's in their final positions. Landing gear taken apart and painted white. If you are going to get this kit, ask to have the gear painted. It is a pain to take it out and disassemble it.

I am also installing Dan's light kit from Details4Scale which is bad ass. This kit has molded lenses, and a new slim controller.

This week I plan to do much more.

I had a question for the guys who have already built one, why does the manual say that the main rears and the front doors have to go on separate valves?

Also included a pic of my new Krill Avanti S. Full composite. I will be doing a thread on this one soon.
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Last edited by PowerBoxDanny; 01-27-2015 at 08:27 PM.
Old 01-27-2015, 08:55 PM
  #28  
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Dan the main gear doors cannot close at the same time the front door has to open and close before the aft door. Hey I'm curious what the cost is on the smaller avanti? I have the bigger brother.
Old 01-28-2015, 05:07 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by FenderBean
Dan the main gear doors cannot close at the same time the front door has to open and close before the aft door. Hey I'm curious what the cost is on the smaller avanti? I have the bigger brother.
Thanks for the info fender, I will try a couple of ideas before adding another valve and a sequencer.

This is the Krill Avanti S. Its around $4800. This one is around 88 inches long. We are the exclusive Krill importer and this bird is very nice.

Last edited by PowerBoxDanny; 01-28-2015 at 05:11 AM.
Old 02-02-2015, 06:52 PM
  #30  
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Got a few more things done. As I mentioned earlier, I wont bore any one with redundant pictures of the same thing of other threads. Last few days have been spent adding a few things such as strobes, servos, and control horns to the verticals. Remounted the wing mount and trial fit the turbine rail and turbine. I have also been working on an accessory hatch. Yes the edges will be corrected when it is all done and paint will match.

I also got on one of my graphics program and laid out the electronics setup from JR that is complete DMSS Xbus system and using the new AXIS gyro. This setup has over 20 used outputs, 8 spare outputs, all high voltage flow and uses only 12 channels with the current setup.

One thing I am a bit disappointed is the tail pipe is set up long from the factory. I will have to remove the bell mouth and cut the length of the pipe and reinstall the bell mouth. I like that it is mounted from the rear because it is easier to remove and get to the turbine since the turbine has to come out of the back.
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Old 02-02-2015, 06:55 PM
  #31  
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This is the diagram of the system.
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Old 02-02-2015, 07:44 PM
  #32  
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Skunk your pipes are good you probably did what i did and tried to mount them from the back.... check my thread it shows how to mount them and they line up perfect. The tabs on the back sit flush with the turkey feathers and its a much more secure setup. Also I noticed your using the stock line and fittings, just heads up mine leaked everywhere. I had to pull all the airline and replace the T fittings and airline, plus the stock fittings are very thin and brittle.
Old 02-03-2015, 10:24 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by FenderBean
Skunk your pipes are good you probably did what i did and tried to mount them from the back.... check my thread it shows how to mount them and they line up perfect. The tabs on the back sit flush with the turkey feathers and its a much more secure setup. Also I noticed your using the stock line and fittings, just heads up mine leaked everywhere. I had to pull all the airline and replace the T fittings and airline, plus the stock fittings are very thin and brittle.
Thanks for the pipe info Fender. I will check that out. I was getting ready to remove and cut! As far as the lines and the fittings, I have replaced a couple that had small leaks. I do a 150psi leak test to all lines and T connections. I pulled out the entire line setup in the rear, submerge in water completely with one end capped and pressurize. No leaks. It is a procedure I do with all my jets and builds for customers. The T's are no lesser quality that that or robart T's. I have put them side by side and they have performed the same year after year. I'm not a huge fan of the colors but other than that, it hasn't been an issue.
Old 02-03-2015, 01:52 PM
  #34  
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What ever works, I personally stay away from plastic since it gets brittle but thats just a personal thing. On the pipes I took the bolts off the bell mouth and mounted them to the turbine rails facing forward, this allows me to pull the pipe backwards onto the bolts.
Old 02-04-2015, 05:35 PM
  #35  
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Thanks for the info on the Pipes Keith, that was a time saver for sure. Will post some pics tomorrow. Been super busy.
Old 02-04-2015, 06:23 PM
  #36  
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Any time
Old 02-07-2015, 06:59 PM
  #37  
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Alright, a few things done. I finished the verticals completely. Lights and all. I ran all the wires to the rear section, aluminum taped them and heat blanketed the area to protect them. I also ran pneumatic lines and completed my "Start Up" retractable panel. I also ran the light to the nose gear and installed the UP3 that will control the canopy and locking mechanism. I use this valve on all my canopy's. Its too simple to play with canopy timing and locks. Of course all the panels will be sealed and painted or wrapped.

Some pics!
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Last edited by PowerBoxDanny; 02-07-2015 at 07:01 PM.
Old 02-07-2015, 07:14 PM
  #38  
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Very nice!

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