New big Ripmax Xcalibur (Xcalibur+)
#126
Thread Starter
Notes
The tank hold plate has a good amount of adhesive under the plate, the tubes for the steering can be moved to suit your steering arm width. Nose sheath and canopy are now M4 screw (one tool)
The tank hold plate has a good amount of adhesive under the plate, the tubes for the steering can be moved to suit your steering arm width. Nose sheath and canopy are now M4 screw (one tool)
#128
Thread Starter
I'm not sure what Mike's plans are, but as things ramp up I'm sure its possible. The factory is in full swing now.
Stayed on in the office to do some of the messy jobs, glued all the hinges in the surfaces (Hysol 9462) Its always worth checking the depth of the hinge holes and whether they are sealed (an air outlet is needed if the hinge is not to be pushed out by pressure.) On this kit the factory have done a great job on the hinge holes, only one needed centring better.
Servo mounts are different to the Xcalibur. The factory have tack glued frames to the hatches, these need moving for JR servos and some others.
Stayed on in the office to do some of the messy jobs, glued all the hinges in the surfaces (Hysol 9462) Its always worth checking the depth of the hinge holes and whether they are sealed (an air outlet is needed if the hinge is not to be pushed out by pressure.) On this kit the factory have done a great job on the hinge holes, only one needed centring better.
Servo mounts are different to the Xcalibur. The factory have tack glued frames to the hatches, these need moving for JR servos and some others.
#129
Thread Starter
Gear looks great.
Dismantled and added loctite to all the screws. neat that the factory added grease to the csk pivot screws. I greased the wheel surface to stop brake locking, the spot you see is all that is needed.
Dismantled and added loctite to all the screws. neat that the factory added grease to the csk pivot screws. I greased the wheel surface to stop brake locking, the spot you see is all that is needed.
#130
My Feedback: (1)
Will Behotec C50 retracts fit this plane? I know there is a bespoke set of landing gear available as an accessory to this plane, but as I have a NIB set of C50's I am wondering if they could be used. I have not been able to find any info on the dimensions of the recommended retract units, that's the reason for asking. If Ripmax had made this info available it would be easier for us potential customers to find out what other types of retracts will fit the plane, a lot of us already have something in hand that might be suitable or simply have our own preferances to what we like to use in our models.
#131
Thread Starter
Pondus
The C-50 could be made to fit. The inner well skin will need removing, but its easy in this case. Most other gear would not have a wide enough mounting pattern.
I was involved with the U/C discussion, there was a lot of thought about how to handle it. In the UK there are quite a few sets of "ropey" (old/bent?buckled) gear and people fitting them in an Xcalibur+ reflects on the model. OK Behotec are fabulous and there are other good sets, but the Ripmax gear is great and was priced at a really keen price to steer people towards using it. My input was that someone can sell their good quality gear for most of what the Ripmax set costs and have a perfect fitting setup.
Dave
The C-50 could be made to fit. The inner well skin will need removing, but its easy in this case. Most other gear would not have a wide enough mounting pattern.
I was involved with the U/C discussion, there was a lot of thought about how to handle it. In the UK there are quite a few sets of "ropey" (old/bent?buckled) gear and people fitting them in an Xcalibur+ reflects on the model. OK Behotec are fabulous and there are other good sets, but the Ripmax gear is great and was priced at a really keen price to steer people towards using it. My input was that someone can sell their good quality gear for most of what the Ripmax set costs and have a perfect fitting setup.
Dave
#133
Thread Starter
I have not had time to unpack one yet, we had a huge number of big deliveries all today and getting kits, JR 28X and some aerobats out took all my time. Soon as I get a moment, I'm still in the office working on my Plus 8.35pm here.
Dave
Dave
#134
Thread Starter
Managed to get some paint on this earlier, coated the boards with ZAP 40 (heating on in the office now!)
Last edited by Dave Wilshere; 05-19-2015 at 11:45 AM.
#135
Thread Starter
Hinging complete (job I hate) Made up the packers too. I use a Wiha PH1 screwdriver to mark the centres, drill 3.2mm and tap M4. While the Hysol was out I have also glued the blocks down. In the am, when its dry, I'll drill through with longer screws into the bearers.
#138
Thread Starter
Si
The wood is coated with ZAP 40, first coat 70% epoxy, 30% meths. Let that dry, rub down and second coat 50:50. Let dry and sand. Then prime. The plates with the Plus are a different wood to the std one I had, close grain and did not need much work to get a good finish. I intend to paint them red...if I have time. Need to get the cut outs done before hand and no where near that stage, still in office at 10.30 and wife's ringing!
Its Rust-oleum Textured Paint. Aged Iron. Used it on an UF build I did last year and liked it. Light coat of grey primer first and then stray the Aged Iron. You can see in the pictures the light area where the flash picks out the primer through the pigment...its all a bit of a rush on this one!
OK, seems Pizza is in oven, so heading home.
Dave
The wood is coated with ZAP 40, first coat 70% epoxy, 30% meths. Let that dry, rub down and second coat 50:50. Let dry and sand. Then prime. The plates with the Plus are a different wood to the std one I had, close grain and did not need much work to get a good finish. I intend to paint them red...if I have time. Need to get the cut outs done before hand and no where near that stage, still in office at 10.30 and wife's ringing!
Its Rust-oleum Textured Paint. Aged Iron. Used it on an UF build I did last year and liked it. Light coat of grey primer first and then stray the Aged Iron. You can see in the pictures the light area where the flash picks out the primer through the pigment...its all a bit of a rush on this one!
OK, seems Pizza is in oven, so heading home.
Dave
#139
Cheers Dave, might try that. I bought an Xcalibur off one of your club mates but not going to get a chance to even look at it before the weekend, so will not be in the air for a few weeks.
Going to be interesting to see what she flies like.
Just out of interest, what paint are you using to spray the red? Is it resistant to the kero?
Enjoy your pizza.
Regards,
Simon
Going to be interesting to see what she flies like.
Just out of interest, what paint are you using to spray the red? Is it resistant to the kero?
Enjoy your pizza.
Regards,
Simon
#140
Thread Starter
Yes, it was Paul, He's collecting his RAF Xcalibur+ tomorrow.
Halfords car spray. Yes used it for years and seems kero proof.
Pizza was good, recharged now.
Halfords car spray. Yes used it for years and seems kero proof.
Pizza was good, recharged now.
#141
My Feedback: (1)
Pondus
The C-50 could be made to fit. The inner well skin will need removing, but its easy in this case. Most other gear would not have a wide enough mounting pattern.
I was involved with the U/C discussion, there was a lot of thought about how to handle it. In the UK there are quite a few sets of "ropey" (old/bent?buckled) gear and people fitting them in an Xcalibur+ reflects on the model. OK Behotec are fabulous and there are other good sets, but the Ripmax gear is great and was priced at a really keen price to steer people towards using it. My input was that someone can sell their good quality gear for most of what the Ripmax set costs and have a perfect fitting setup.
Dave
The C-50 could be made to fit. The inner well skin will need removing, but its easy in this case. Most other gear would not have a wide enough mounting pattern.
I was involved with the U/C discussion, there was a lot of thought about how to handle it. In the UK there are quite a few sets of "ropey" (old/bent?buckled) gear and people fitting them in an Xcalibur+ reflects on the model. OK Behotec are fabulous and there are other good sets, but the Ripmax gear is great and was priced at a really keen price to steer people towards using it. My input was that someone can sell their good quality gear for most of what the Ripmax set costs and have a perfect fitting setup.
Dave
#142
My Feedback: (30)
Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: Norfolk, NE
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Dave, it's great to see you have your hands on one finally. Now I am charged up about getting mine when they hit the US. Hopefully won't be too much longer of a wait. Keep the photos coming and can't wait to see it all finished.
Jason
Jason
#143
Thread Starter
I get your reasoning, and if the Ripmax gear is solid and will hold up to wear and tear it is a very good deal. And it is of course easier to have it all ready to bolt in, with legs, wheels, brakes and air system all in a package. I hope this means spares for the gear will be readily available? Even good quality gear suffers from a bad landing once in a while.
I put my name against the gear and I'm fussy ;-)
Dave
#145
That was the scheme which was tempting me, but decided it was a bit too big for my club jet so went with the baby one. Plus all my gear was a straight swap.
You still hoping to get yours done for the weekend?
Simon
You still hoping to get yours done for the weekend?
Simon
#146
Thread Starter
Simon
Crazy eh! Yes, not sure if it is possible though. I'm here again in office, just painting radio plates-office is 28 degrees ready :-))
Dave
Crazy eh! Yes, not sure if it is possible though. I'm here again in office, just painting radio plates-office is 28 degrees ready :-))
Dave
#150
Thread Starter
Mike
Yep, need to get one fully unboxed, still no time. Maybe tomorrow! Needs some jet motors to up the knots!
It will be worth the wait...
Dave
PS Mig ;-)
Yep, need to get one fully unboxed, still no time. Maybe tomorrow! Needs some jet motors to up the knots!
It will be worth the wait...
Dave
PS Mig ;-)