New big Ripmax Xcalibur (Xcalibur+)
#426
Thread Starter
I have transported the two Xcalibur models like this a while, it uses a modified ASM model stand, with one end trimmed 20mm lower so the nose of the std Xcalibur sits under the Plus tail. Really stable and works well using minimal floor foot print! Just need to decide of the Mini Xcalibur can make it a triple decker (I am joking it would be top heavy) The other half of the van takes various models and equipment
#428
Nice solution, Dave. I made one myself as well for transport, testing and storage,
For transport it is not absolutely necessary, but I don't leave them on their gear during storage, as the springs of the MLG get weak after one or two years, I found out (with another, heavier model).
Plus the stand lets me cycle the gear a few times before the first flight.
For transport it is not absolutely necessary, but I don't leave them on their gear during storage, as the springs of the MLG get weak after one or two years, I found out (with another, heavier model).
Plus the stand lets me cycle the gear a few times before the first flight.
#429
Thread Starter
#430
Thread Starter
I have transported the two Xcalibur models like this a while, it uses a modified ASM model stand, with one end trimmed 20mm lower so the nose of the std Xcalibur sits under the Plus tail. Really stable and works well using minimal floor foot print! Just need to decide of the Mini Xcalibur can make it a triple decker (I am joking it would be top heavy) The other half of the van takes various models and equipment
Both mine sit on their wheels on a shelf and no issue. I do tape my springs though. The plus is coming up to it's 1st Birthday.
#431
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Join Date: Apr 2013
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also problems with left rotation bin
I just finished mine and my balance is at 200mm (5mm back from recommended) with no weight. I am thinking about flying it at 200mm I am sure it will be fine. Wings were tight, it took some work on the tube and the left rotation bin needed some alignment. Temp is 5 deg here now so hope to get it in the air next week.
what didi you do to get the pin ftting (mine is nearly 2mm out of the whole in the wing.
I can force it to fit but the the wing is very hard to get on the tube to the boom
If i mill the pipe the pin might stuck in it ?the pipe is very thin material....
Where did you correct the direction of the pin ??
Greetings Elmar
#433
Thread Starter
At the Nye jets event yesterday Ian Bailey was flying his RAF Plus with an old P-80, I missed getting pictures and there was no video people there, but Ian confirmed it had plenty of performance.
There is a kit review in the next RCJi issue too.
There is a kit review in the next RCJi issue too.
#434
Main Landing Gear Flex
I was checking the Main gear, I noticed that the flexing angle is quite limited.
Can you guys please see if this is what you have as well
Not Compressed
Compressed
No Compressed
Compressed
Is this enough, I checked my other LG on Ultraflash and Jet A1 legs, they have full load on the springs.
But on this one, seems like the corner edge is hitting the U shaped Aluminium section earlier.
Could be resolved by filing the edge of. But Just want to check with the Flying model owners,
How Flexible is your main gear. Nose wheel seams to work fine.
Can you guys please see if this is what you have as well
Not Compressed
Compressed
No Compressed
Compressed
Is this enough, I checked my other LG on Ultraflash and Jet A1 legs, they have full load on the springs.
But on this one, seems like the corner edge is hitting the U shaped Aluminium section earlier.
Could be resolved by filing the edge of. But Just want to check with the Flying model owners,
How Flexible is your main gear. Nose wheel seams to work fine.
Last edited by ons_pk; 06-02-2016 at 04:52 AM.
#435
Is this enough, I checked my other LG on Ultraflash and Jet A1 legs, they have full load on the springs.
But on this one, seems like the corner edge is hitting the U shaped Aluminium section earlier.
Could be resolved by filing the edge of. But Just want to check with the Flying model owners,
How Flexible is your main gear. Nose wheel seams to work fine.
But on this one, seems like the corner edge is hitting the U shaped Aluminium section earlier.
Could be resolved by filing the edge of. But Just want to check with the Flying model owners,
How Flexible is your main gear. Nose wheel seams to work fine.
#436
Dave
I had my Xcal+ swerve off the hard surface into the grass and my nose gear connection pin is bent, I have mailed Ripmax for a replacement, because I don't see a webshop. Did I overlook something?
I had my Xcal+ swerve off the hard surface into the grass and my nose gear connection pin is bent, I have mailed Ripmax for a replacement, because I don't see a webshop. Did I overlook something?
#437
Thread Starter
Omar
Yes the yoke is stopped by the square leg end. This make ground handling better and the leg can only compress so far. A small chamfer on each side would be better.
Rich
Yes, the pin is available, thought it was on my site, will look. I am currently in Scotland at their Helicopter National Championships
Dave
Yes the yoke is stopped by the square leg end. This make ground handling better and the leg can only compress so far. A small chamfer on each side would be better.
Rich
Yes, the pin is available, thought it was on my site, will look. I am currently in Scotland at their Helicopter National Championships
Dave
#438
Thanks Dave
I have done the dry fitting of the plane
seems like the left wing anti rotation tube is not lining up.
As it has been reported before. But how can we resolve it .
there are carbon tubes inside the wing and in the fuselage the anti rotation tube slides into. The tube coming out of Fuslage is not at 90* degrees and is angled forward.
I have done the dry fitting of the plane
seems like the left wing anti rotation tube is not lining up.
As it has been reported before. But how can we resolve it .
there are carbon tubes inside the wing and in the fuselage the anti rotation tube slides into. The tube coming out of Fuslage is not at 90* degrees and is angled forward.
Last edited by ons_pk; 06-03-2016 at 11:26 AM.
#442
Thread Starter
The tube was bonded in place angling the anti rotation tube foward. The right side was perfect.
I cut the tube out and sub former, used a Dremel to clear a new seat. I found a carbon tube with the correct I/D and bonded it in with Hysol, using the wing as a jig.
Made a new 1/8 sub former and Hysol'd that in place.
Factory have been informed to check this carefully.
Dave
I cut the tube out and sub former, used a Dremel to clear a new seat. I found a carbon tube with the correct I/D and bonded it in with Hysol, using the wing as a jig.
Made a new 1/8 sub former and Hysol'd that in place.
Factory have been informed to check this carefully.
Dave
#443
Dave,
Maybe some room for improvement on the main gear legs.
Possible to the event where I swerved off the RWY, the left gear was showing a large play as well. It turned out the alu material which surrounds the 4mm hinge pin on the lower, moving part of the leg, was slightly pushed outwards, creating a massive play, There is not enough material to withstand a rougher landing. A redesign around the hinge pin would be recommendable.
For the time being I drilled all holes and inserted a new 5mm hinge pin.
Maybe some room for improvement on the main gear legs.
Possible to the event where I swerved off the RWY, the left gear was showing a large play as well. It turned out the alu material which surrounds the 4mm hinge pin on the lower, moving part of the leg, was slightly pushed outwards, creating a massive play, There is not enough material to withstand a rougher landing. A redesign around the hinge pin would be recommendable.
For the time being I drilled all holes and inserted a new 5mm hinge pin.
#444
Some more experiences with the gear.
Last weekend both flights were marred by gear problems.
The first one was not related to the design (one brake air tube got chafed leaking by a wheel during T/O) draining the (single) air bottle. Murphy was here too, the brake valve proved not fully closed with the brakes not in use (unmixed from elev by the gear switch), I have mailed to the manufacturer if this is normal behaviour.
After 5 jets I thought I opt for a single air system, as I had never this exact scenario. I have to review that again or use a safety switch that extends the gear below a certain pressure.
The second flight I only got the gear out with G-forces: Yessss, for once it worked this time!
Inspection showed that with just a little pressure by hand (mimicking the airstream) the pressure could not overcome the gear lock system.
I have had this before with other brands, It is caused by the actuator T-pin routeing, which has to pass a "bump" to get in one of the end locks.
With a file I rounded off the sharp bump and greased the lot with ball bearing grease, It now unlocks perfectly, You really have to press hard to keep the gear inside.
There is no need for those sharp edged "bumps".
Last weekend both flights were marred by gear problems.
The first one was not related to the design (one brake air tube got chafed leaking by a wheel during T/O) draining the (single) air bottle. Murphy was here too, the brake valve proved not fully closed with the brakes not in use (unmixed from elev by the gear switch), I have mailed to the manufacturer if this is normal behaviour.
After 5 jets I thought I opt for a single air system, as I had never this exact scenario. I have to review that again or use a safety switch that extends the gear below a certain pressure.
The second flight I only got the gear out with G-forces: Yessss, for once it worked this time!
Inspection showed that with just a little pressure by hand (mimicking the airstream) the pressure could not overcome the gear lock system.
I have had this before with other brands, It is caused by the actuator T-pin routeing, which has to pass a "bump" to get in one of the end locks.
With a file I rounded off the sharp bump and greased the lot with ball bearing grease, It now unlocks perfectly, You really have to press hard to keep the gear inside.
There is no need for those sharp edged "bumps".
Last edited by richbran; 06-20-2016 at 01:07 PM.
#445
Dave,
Don't suppose you remember what colour red you bought from Halford to spray your trays (I know it's nearly a year ago)?
Done a few deals and got an Xcalibur plus in the same colours as yours. Done all the trays today, but still need to paint.
Enjoyed my standard Xcalibur so much I've always wanted the bigger one since it came out (just need to sell it now to fill hole in credit card!!).
Cheers,
Simon
Don't suppose you remember what colour red you bought from Halford to spray your trays (I know it's nearly a year ago)?
Done a few deals and got an Xcalibur plus in the same colours as yours. Done all the trays today, but still need to paint.
Enjoyed my standard Xcalibur so much I've always wanted the bigger one since it came out (just need to sell it now to fill hole in credit card!!).
Cheers,
Simon
#447
No worries, just went for the brightest looking red. Don't think I'm going to bother putting any clear coat on the top as the finish is okay for electronics trays.
Just need to patient and let them dry before fitting all the bits back in place.
Cheers,
Simon
Just need to patient and let them dry before fitting all the bits back in place.
Cheers,
Simon
#448
Been getting back to full health over past couple of weeks so had time to burn. Few little details, but just needs assembling for cg check and turbine run.
Glue is drying on a little plate to hold my fill line. Everything else is plumbed in.
Little bit bit unsure about the Behotec valve. It's a V1 and came out of a model which I sold ages ago. Seems to hold air, but it has dropped over the space of an hour. You can also hear a bit of air escaping from the housing when switching between up/down retracts. Should this be happening?
Simon
Glue is drying on a little plate to hold my fill line. Everything else is plumbed in.
Little bit bit unsure about the Behotec valve. It's a V1 and came out of a model which I sold ages ago. Seems to hold air, but it has dropped over the space of an hour. You can also hear a bit of air escaping from the housing when switching between up/down retracts. Should this be happening?
Simon
#449
Thread Starter
It will vent when going from brake
if the shuttle is dry it could blow past, but check by clamping off the opposite side of each cylinder and see if pressure still drops. Did you pressure check each unit before assembly?
if the shuttle is dry it could blow past, but check by clamping off the opposite side of each cylinder and see if pressure still drops. Did you pressure check each unit before assembly?
#450
Dave,
Do you mean checking each retract? Don't think I've ever done that to be honest, I just assume they work from new. Left it with the wheels down for over two hours and it's not dropped any air and then got multiple cycles. I'm sure it's all good, I'm just used to electronic valves (a recent covert to this very simple set up).
You mentioned that you put a bit of silicon oil in the system, do you have a link to it?
Cant wait to to fly it. Shouldn't take long to fit my Gemini 2 as all the leads are in place.
Simon
Do you mean checking each retract? Don't think I've ever done that to be honest, I just assume they work from new. Left it with the wheels down for over two hours and it's not dropped any air and then got multiple cycles. I'm sure it's all good, I'm just used to electronic valves (a recent covert to this very simple set up).
You mentioned that you put a bit of silicon oil in the system, do you have a link to it?
Cant wait to to fly it. Shouldn't take long to fit my Gemini 2 as all the leads are in place.
Simon