The new Fei Bao Jets “Dolphin S” build thread by RCISFUN
#77
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Hi
having just finished the wing build it would be good to see the servo hatch covers elongated to allow the servo horn to be centered,at least on the ailerons. The one ended idea will work for the flaps of corse. I ended up sticking mine to the underside of the wing surface with silicone!
also the electric u/ c which I have is a different size to the air version. Whilst the holes for the front wheel assembly were correct to each other one set were 2mm from the edge of the frame!
This meant a reconstruction job with 3mm thick carbon angle to sort it out reliably.
also why cannot manufacturers of u/c units leave the mounting plates u drilled. There is enough clear plate to accommodate the above if this was the case. Impressed with th u/c units and mains damper. I have paid 80 eur each for this facility from a German manufacturer
having just finished the wing build it would be good to see the servo hatch covers elongated to allow the servo horn to be centered,at least on the ailerons. The one ended idea will work for the flaps of corse. I ended up sticking mine to the underside of the wing surface with silicone!
also the electric u/ c which I have is a different size to the air version. Whilst the holes for the front wheel assembly were correct to each other one set were 2mm from the edge of the frame!
This meant a reconstruction job with 3mm thick carbon angle to sort it out reliably.
also why cannot manufacturers of u/c units leave the mounting plates u drilled. There is enough clear plate to accommodate the above if this was the case. Impressed with th u/c units and mains damper. I have paid 80 eur each for this facility from a German manufacturer
#78
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Hi
since there are no gear doors can the main gear and nose be run through a Power Box Royal direct with all three servos to a common rail.
Does the gear control box have reversing capabilities?
Does it need a separate source of power?
Reason is I have no box at present (to arrive soon)
Thank you
David
since there are no gear doors can the main gear and nose be run through a Power Box Royal direct with all three servos to a common rail.
Does the gear control box have reversing capabilities?
Does it need a separate source of power?
Reason is I have no box at present (to arrive soon)
Thank you
David
Last edited by skywarrior; 04-30-2015 at 01:46 AM.
#83
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Hi
since there are no gear doors can the main gear and nose be run through a Power Box Royal direct with all three servos to a common rail.
Does the gear control box have reversing capabilities?
Does it need a separate source of power?
Reason is I have no box at present (to arrive soon)
Thank you
David
since there are no gear doors can the main gear and nose be run through a Power Box Royal direct with all three servos to a common rail.
Does the gear control box have reversing capabilities?
Does it need a separate source of power?
Reason is I have no box at present (to arrive soon)
Thank you
David
I am a bit confused with your question, the Electric retracts are a two wire system, (DC motor), the controller "box" as you described provides the interface to the radio system to decipher which direction (DC polarity of the two wires) to determine motor direction based on your transmitter switch input. The controller also has circuitry to determine when the retracts are at their full travel (i.e. DC current sensing), so when they hit the stop the DC current spikes, the controller sees this spike and turns off the DC voltage to the motor.
This is also the reason for retracts to stop in mid motion if they encounter excessive resistance to movement, i.e. the current spike due to the impeded movement looks like a stop limit.
So I'm not sure what your trying to do with the power box as the decoding is completed in the control module (that you don't have yet), not the individual retracts.
The controller requires its own power source which is separate from the receiver battery.
#85
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Hi
thank you for the reply. You have answered all my questions. I obviously do need a control unit.
The reason I asked was that until now there was no info on how this system works.
for instance I have a CARF VIPERJETS with Airtech e retracts. No controller required. The units are operated via a three position switch connected to the retract channel on the P Box from which it takes it's cc supply. The units themselves sense the current rise and stop accordingly and can be corrected for center via switch. Brakes are separate supply and channel.
i will have to wait now to fly this plane as its near enough ready to go
thank you for the reply. You have answered all my questions. I obviously do need a control unit.
The reason I asked was that until now there was no info on how this system works.
for instance I have a CARF VIPERJETS with Airtech e retracts. No controller required. The units are operated via a three position switch connected to the retract channel on the P Box from which it takes it's cc supply. The units themselves sense the current rise and stop accordingly and can be corrected for center via switch. Brakes are separate supply and channel.
i will have to wait now to fly this plane as its near enough ready to go
#86
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Hi
thank you for the reply. You have answered all my questions. I obviously do need a control unit.
The reason I asked was that until now there was no info on how this system works.
For instance I have a CARF VIPERJET with Airtech e retracts. No controller required. The units are operated via a three position switch connected to the retract channel on the P Box from which it takes it's dc supply. The units themselves sense the current rise and stop accordingly and can be corrected for center via switch. Brakes are separate supply and channel.
I will have to wait now to fly this plane as its near enough ready to go
thank you for the reply. You have answered all my questions. I obviously do need a control unit.
The reason I asked was that until now there was no info on how this system works.
For instance I have a CARF VIPERJET with Airtech e retracts. No controller required. The units are operated via a three position switch connected to the retract channel on the P Box from which it takes it's dc supply. The units themselves sense the current rise and stop accordingly and can be corrected for center via switch. Brakes are separate supply and channel.
I will have to wait now to fly this plane as its near enough ready to go
Last edited by skywarrior; 05-01-2015 at 04:31 PM.
#87
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Eric Clapp just sent the DVD video that was shot by SKS video at the 2015 FL Jets, uploading it to YouTube reduced the resolution quite a bit so it doesn't look as good as the DVD version.
There is a cameo appearance from Catherine of Fei Bao, Thanks Catherine for stepping in and helping hold the plane
A big thank you to Jim Hiller who was the pilot for this Video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zt-d_8jWtQk&feature=youtu.be
There is a cameo appearance from Catherine of Fei Bao, Thanks Catherine for stepping in and helping hold the plane
A big thank you to Jim Hiller who was the pilot for this Video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zt-d_8jWtQk&feature=youtu.be
Last edited by RCISFUN; 05-02-2015 at 09:02 AM.
#88
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Richard,
the recommended servo HS 5645 MG does not fit the framework on the nose gear. The frame int size is 32mm x 16.5 mm .
have I read this wrongly or has there been a change at the factory?
I have two of these servos and one fits the rudder ok but not the nose gear
The servo actually measures 40 x 29 mm
Can you help at all please.
Thank you
David
the recommended servo HS 5645 MG does not fit the framework on the nose gear. The frame int size is 32mm x 16.5 mm .
have I read this wrongly or has there been a change at the factory?
I have two of these servos and one fits the rudder ok but not the nose gear
The servo actually measures 40 x 29 mm
Can you help at all please.
Thank you
David
#91
Thread Starter
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David,
Sorry I guess the servo info would have been helpful
Eric reported that he used a Spektrum A5060, Dimensions: 32.8 x 14.7 x 27.4mm; Stall Torque 87 oz-in (6.3 kg-cm) @ 6.0V; 118 oz-in (8.5 kg-cm) @ 8.4V
I'm sure with some research you could find others to fit, the issue is with the length of the cut out, the width Eric reported that a standard servo would fit. This has been reported to Fei Bao.
As I do not have this in hand can you tell me if there enough material to file the opening to elongate to fit a larger servo?
Note: you need at least a 6V system for this servo.
Sorry I guess the servo info would have been helpful
Eric reported that he used a Spektrum A5060, Dimensions: 32.8 x 14.7 x 27.4mm; Stall Torque 87 oz-in (6.3 kg-cm) @ 6.0V; 118 oz-in (8.5 kg-cm) @ 8.4V
I'm sure with some research you could find others to fit, the issue is with the length of the cut out, the width Eric reported that a standard servo would fit. This has been reported to Fei Bao.
As I do not have this in hand can you tell me if there enough material to file the opening to elongate to fit a larger servo?
Note: you need at least a 6V system for this servo.
Last edited by RCISFUN; 05-04-2015 at 05:02 PM.
#94
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Third part conversion to electric retracts and brakes for FB Dolphin
I wanted to give the group a quick update on the air to electric retract and brake conversion. After looking at the supplied system on my Dolphin and the one on the Dolphin S at FB it was easy to see that these could be converted using European supplied retract motors and InterAir Brakes and controller from Australia. I am posting the conversion for the Dolphin but the S would convert the same. This gives us the ability to use the same hard mounting points for the air unit as the converted electric unit so if air was ever wanted later could easily go back if desired. I am using Lado 666 V2 which I tested in our motor lab in the US for 900 cycles adding 5 lbs of force at 7.4 volts cycling every 10 minutes. I stopped after 900 cycles (It's an automatic system so did not need to watch the entire time) so I am pretty sure these will hold up. The Chinese supplied motors in time (and maybe now) probably will be ok just the risk and economics are not worth it at this point. (I spend about 60% of my time in China and familiar with motor producers there) You can get Lado 666 Black V-2's at ~ 140 USD (Lado uses an internal bearing so support on the shaft end is not needed) each delivered and the electric brakes at ~ 200 USD delivered. FB will reduce the price by about $ 210 USD if you leave off the wheels and air components and of course you will not need to pay the additional 200 USD for electric brakes and wheels from them. Pics attached of the conversion. Does not take any additional material just some machining of parts supplied. Pics attached.
#95
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Hi,
Finished but yet to maiden the Dolphin S
Here is my install with the Jets Munt 140 BXL. / P/Box Royal and electric retract set from kit option.
As seen the CG works out pretty well but using 2700 2S for the Rx power supply and two 2S 2700 either side of main tank tucked away between tank and fuselage.
Be careful because it will work out nose heavy quite easily if you have a similar install.
I have turned my wheels so the spoke or trim faces outwards. The wheels go away slightly more if reversed as my retracts were supplied but you end up looking at the brake drums when its screaming down the runway.
The servo slots I.M.O. are poor. The slots are not offset from centre and this may be fine with the flap as the travel is one way but not the ailerons. Yes its possible to use them as supplied but I think that is incorrect. The nose wheel (elec) mount had to be re configured with carbon angle to accommodate the different hole placement from the air version. Why not leave the holes to the modeller ? If you cannot drill four holes you should not be flying this plane imo. Indeed why retract manufactures don't leave the ali mounting side plate un drilled is a shame as in most cases I have come across you could drill further out from the inside edge and have a stronger mounting.
Make sure if you have an elec ret set you leave enough cable when the wing is withdrawn from the wing. Thi to raise the gear before disconnecting from wing joiner if you are bagging the wings because if you use say an eight way Emotec joiner plug you have no means of raising the wheels back into the wing. Mine now has wing landing lights and wing tip nav lights hence the eight way plugs x 2
I think this kit is real value for money and yes there are a few things a bit out but you get a good product for a very reasonable outlay and I look forward to flying it very soon.
Finished but yet to maiden the Dolphin S
Here is my install with the Jets Munt 140 BXL. / P/Box Royal and electric retract set from kit option.
As seen the CG works out pretty well but using 2700 2S for the Rx power supply and two 2S 2700 either side of main tank tucked away between tank and fuselage.
Be careful because it will work out nose heavy quite easily if you have a similar install.
I have turned my wheels so the spoke or trim faces outwards. The wheels go away slightly more if reversed as my retracts were supplied but you end up looking at the brake drums when its screaming down the runway.
The servo slots I.M.O. are poor. The slots are not offset from centre and this may be fine with the flap as the travel is one way but not the ailerons. Yes its possible to use them as supplied but I think that is incorrect. The nose wheel (elec) mount had to be re configured with carbon angle to accommodate the different hole placement from the air version. Why not leave the holes to the modeller ? If you cannot drill four holes you should not be flying this plane imo. Indeed why retract manufactures don't leave the ali mounting side plate un drilled is a shame as in most cases I have come across you could drill further out from the inside edge and have a stronger mounting.
Make sure if you have an elec ret set you leave enough cable when the wing is withdrawn from the wing. Thi to raise the gear before disconnecting from wing joiner if you are bagging the wings because if you use say an eight way Emotec joiner plug you have no means of raising the wheels back into the wing. Mine now has wing landing lights and wing tip nav lights hence the eight way plugs x 2
I think this kit is real value for money and yes there are a few things a bit out but you get a good product for a very reasonable outlay and I look forward to flying it very soon.
#96
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Hi
One thing I forgot to mention is the "trail angle " of the trailing lower link. This is critical in the wheel fitting into the wheel well and not catching the side and therefore not coming down into the landing position. Once again i.m.o. the wells are too small and could have been large enough to accommodate any twist or change of geometry other than perfect. To this end I found it necessary to have some adjustment for this angle which is achieved by a 4 mm cap head with a small nylon turned cup which has a square profile interior. This is so it sits as low as possible over the base of the bottom link. You can then file off a flat which will give the correct angle to the wheel and link. If it ceases to work then turn the spacer 90 ' and do another one.
Regards
David
One thing I forgot to mention is the "trail angle " of the trailing lower link. This is critical in the wheel fitting into the wheel well and not catching the side and therefore not coming down into the landing position. Once again i.m.o. the wells are too small and could have been large enough to accommodate any twist or change of geometry other than perfect. To this end I found it necessary to have some adjustment for this angle which is achieved by a 4 mm cap head with a small nylon turned cup which has a square profile interior. This is so it sits as low as possible over the base of the bottom link. You can then file off a flat which will give the correct angle to the wheel and link. If it ceases to work then turn the spacer 90 ' and do another one.
Regards
David
#99
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After getting some stick time on my Dolphin S this past weekend at First in Flight I noticed that I wasn't getting enough flap travel to slow it down on the approach.
So I decided to scrap the external linkages for the flap and install an internal linkage.
The internal linkage offer a couple of advantages, the first being you can get the servo arm pointed directly straight back (in line with the linkage) with full flap deployment reducing the holding torque requirements for the servo.
Additionally the control rod placement is much closer to the center line of the servo output shaft, once again helping reduce the torque loads.
The the left photo shown the fiberglass horns I made, right photo shows the servo arm position for full flap deployment, I can get 90 deg's of flap now if I want based on the length of the control rod!
So I decided to scrap the external linkages for the flap and install an internal linkage.
The internal linkage offer a couple of advantages, the first being you can get the servo arm pointed directly straight back (in line with the linkage) with full flap deployment reducing the holding torque requirements for the servo.
Additionally the control rod placement is much closer to the center line of the servo output shaft, once again helping reduce the torque loads.
The the left photo shown the fiberglass horns I made, right photo shows the servo arm position for full flap deployment, I can get 90 deg's of flap now if I want based on the length of the control rod!