Skymaster 1/5 Scale F16 Build Thread
11-20-2015, 06:49 AM
#101
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Mike, this didn't come with arms and from what I read on this thread, the MPI's worked great because they had only one hole at the end of the arm, allowing to drill a specific hole for proper length without getting too close to a pre-drilled hole and have strength issues. I ended up using a 1.5" SWB arm for Rudder since the holes don't start till about 10mm past where I needed to drill the 15mm distance from the pivot center. So, it's just more of insight from others, personal preference and discovery during the build.
11-20-2015, 08:19 AM
#102
My Feedback: (360)
OK That makes perfect sense-Hadn't thought the about multiple holes on the SM arm.Thanks
Mike, this didn't come with arms and from what I read on this thread, the MPI's worked great because they had only one hole at the end of the arm, allowing to drill a specific hole for proper length without getting too close to a pre-drilled hole and have strength issues. I ended up using a 1.5" SWB arm for Rudder since the holes don't start till about 10mm past where I needed to drill the 15mm distance from the pivot center. So, it's just more of insight from others, personal preference and discovery during the build.
11-20-2015, 05:05 PM
#103
My Feedback: (20)
rbxbear44,
Thanks for the great pictures. Ive been following this thread since it started. I will start my 1/5 F-16 build in Jan. Trying to finish a scratch built jet by Christmas.
Your stab servo photos were very helpful in understanding how to set it up. Keep them coming on your build.
Here is my motivation photo just out of the box. Cant wait to get started.
Thanks again, Gary Jones
Thanks for the great pictures. Ive been following this thread since it started. I will start my 1/5 F-16 build in Jan. Trying to finish a scratch built jet by Christmas.
Your stab servo photos were very helpful in understanding how to set it up. Keep them coming on your build.
Here is my motivation photo just out of the box. Cant wait to get started.
Thanks again, Gary Jones
11-21-2015, 05:58 AM
#104
My Feedback: (86)
Awesome Gary! Glad the pics are helpful. There has been some discussion but not so many pics on assembly, so i thought this would be a good thing to add to the thread.
I finished up the Rudder set up last night. As others have, I had to adjust the servo box a bit forward about 5mm to get it at 100mm from the Rudder spar and work properly in the rudder channel. Because of the move, I ended up putting a hardwood block under each area where the servo screws go, Hysol'ing them in. I used an 8711 and SWB arm on this one since the hole was only at 15mm from center on the servo. Had to grind the Ball threads once I put the nut on to make sure it cleared the servo surface.
This is a rock solid design too, great travel and strong design!
I also went ahead and ran air lines to the chute pod just in case I decided to rig it to be functional in the future. One thing I wish SM would consider doing...making the Chute Pod removable just past the servo box, maybe an inch. This would have eliminated the shipping damage I had (although it was packed well and I believe this happened when they were packing the plane) and it would allow us to install a nice plunger system. I might end up cutting a side hatch...or make it removable myself. We will see.
I finished up the Rudder set up last night. As others have, I had to adjust the servo box a bit forward about 5mm to get it at 100mm from the Rudder spar and work properly in the rudder channel. Because of the move, I ended up putting a hardwood block under each area where the servo screws go, Hysol'ing them in. I used an 8711 and SWB arm on this one since the hole was only at 15mm from center on the servo. Had to grind the Ball threads once I put the nut on to make sure it cleared the servo surface.
This is a rock solid design too, great travel and strong design!
I also went ahead and ran air lines to the chute pod just in case I decided to rig it to be functional in the future. One thing I wish SM would consider doing...making the Chute Pod removable just past the servo box, maybe an inch. This would have eliminated the shipping damage I had (although it was packed well and I believe this happened when they were packing the plane) and it would allow us to install a nice plunger system. I might end up cutting a side hatch...or make it removable myself. We will see.
11-21-2015, 06:19 PM
#105
My Feedback: (86)
Tried to work on the Flaperons...got frustrated! The servo gear sits too deep, even if I don't use the grommets and brass posts. So I moved onto the Slats. Will fight with the Flaperons tomorrow when I have a fresh look and mindset!
Slats...the first one was a real learning curve and a couple of hours of work. The second one took 30 min! I went with SWB arms again on this because the holes in the arms needed to be 10mm, very close to the center. The MPI arms have a back brace the first 1/2", plus I had 2 arms already cut short and used them.
Heads up: They come with 2 bearings but the bearing screw is only long enough for one bearing. And, the slot in the CF Horn was too small and I had to cautiously sand inside to increase the width, just enough for a very nice fit and able to slide as the slat moves. I had to assemble everything for fitting, trying to find the gap distance from the arm to the CF Slat horn. I ended up with 3 washers against the arm, the bearing, another washer and then the locknut. When I put the wing on, I saw I needed to increase the up side of the slat on the left wing...taking it all apart and cautiously lengthening the slot in the CF horn just a little bit. Worked flawless!
As one other person said in this thread, you do have the grind the servo arm screw a bit and just a hair of the CF Horn at the top, past the slot, or the servo arm screw with rub against the CF horn. I really couldn't move the servo back further and add another washer under the Bearing because I was max'd out on being able to move it any further in the servo box.
Hint to make this all easier to assemble (since it is really tight): Get the servo box to where the servo just drops straight onto the mounting rails. You will need to carefully remove some material, most of which was glue overspill. Once the arm ou figure the geometry for the arm on the servo, start it in the up position and slowly press the arm down as you fit the bearing assembly into the CF Horn slot. It's still tight to do but with the box fitting the servo nicely, you won't be fighting trying to slide the servo in.
Slats...the first one was a real learning curve and a couple of hours of work. The second one took 30 min! I went with SWB arms again on this because the holes in the arms needed to be 10mm, very close to the center. The MPI arms have a back brace the first 1/2", plus I had 2 arms already cut short and used them.
Heads up: They come with 2 bearings but the bearing screw is only long enough for one bearing. And, the slot in the CF Horn was too small and I had to cautiously sand inside to increase the width, just enough for a very nice fit and able to slide as the slat moves. I had to assemble everything for fitting, trying to find the gap distance from the arm to the CF Slat horn. I ended up with 3 washers against the arm, the bearing, another washer and then the locknut. When I put the wing on, I saw I needed to increase the up side of the slat on the left wing...taking it all apart and cautiously lengthening the slot in the CF horn just a little bit. Worked flawless!
As one other person said in this thread, you do have the grind the servo arm screw a bit and just a hair of the CF Horn at the top, past the slot, or the servo arm screw with rub against the CF horn. I really couldn't move the servo back further and add another washer under the Bearing because I was max'd out on being able to move it any further in the servo box.
Hint to make this all easier to assemble (since it is really tight): Get the servo box to where the servo just drops straight onto the mounting rails. You will need to carefully remove some material, most of which was glue overspill. Once the arm ou figure the geometry for the arm on the servo, start it in the up position and slowly press the arm down as you fit the bearing assembly into the CF Horn slot. It's still tight to do but with the box fitting the servo nicely, you won't be fighting trying to slide the servo in.
Last edited by rbxbear44; 11-21-2015 at 06:25 PM.
11-23-2015, 05:45 AM
#108
My Feedback: (86)
Was able to get the Flaperons done yesterday! Using JR T83's on these also, with MPI 1.5" arms. Not that hard after all, once I enlarged the holes in the fuse skin to clean the MPI arms I wanted to use. Didn't have to enlarge them that much but had to make them a bit "egg shaped" since the MPI 1.5" arms have a angled back brace out to about 1". Works like a charm! The servos were a bit hard to mount on the inside as far as reach, but I found the best way was to put the fuse at a 45 degree angle causing the side I was working on to be on the low side...gravity was on my side as I navigated the screws to secure the servo. And, I used a small piece of masking tape to hold the screws on the driver as I guided them into place.
The last 3/4" of the wing spars going into the clamps is a grizzly bear for sure, very tight! Now I know why the SM guys bang the ends of the wings in the videos to get these on!!!
Got the Nose Gear steering set up too. Had to modify the wood cylinder brackets on the factory assembled "sled". Also wanted to make it easy to dis-assemble it if I needed to fix anything on the hydraulic valves....so I used two 2-56 screws and blind nuts on a self made wood bracket.
Mounted the "sled" on the bottom of the intake with Hysol, drilling some "surface holes" with a 1/4" drill bit in the back of the plywood sled to create some "cleating" with he Hysol on these flat surfaces...I always do that to add strength to gluing flat surfaces together.
Per suggestion by Craig, will add some blocking under the intake just behind where I mounted the nose steering "sled" to stiffen things up a bit, once I get the intake extension on and fitted with the Turbine and pipe in place. I understand there were some issues with the intake collapsing at full throttle back near the joint of the two intake sections.
The last 3/4" of the wing spars going into the clamps is a grizzly bear for sure, very tight! Now I know why the SM guys bang the ends of the wings in the videos to get these on!!!
Got the Nose Gear steering set up too. Had to modify the wood cylinder brackets on the factory assembled "sled". Also wanted to make it easy to dis-assemble it if I needed to fix anything on the hydraulic valves....so I used two 2-56 screws and blind nuts on a self made wood bracket.
Mounted the "sled" on the bottom of the intake with Hysol, drilling some "surface holes" with a 1/4" drill bit in the back of the plywood sled to create some "cleating" with he Hysol on these flat surfaces...I always do that to add strength to gluing flat surfaces together.
Per suggestion by Craig, will add some blocking under the intake just behind where I mounted the nose steering "sled" to stiffen things up a bit, once I get the intake extension on and fitted with the Turbine and pipe in place. I understand there were some issues with the intake collapsing at full throttle back near the joint of the two intake sections.
11-23-2015, 04:26 PM
#109
My Feedback: (86)
Pipe issues from the beginning! I now have 4, 4, 4 pipes for this F-16!!! The one that came with the original purchase was damaged. I was afraid it would take several weeks to get a replacement from SM (which I was totally wrong on that one) and hold me back from pressing on with the assembly. So I ordered one from Tam. Got his in 3 days BUT, it was damaged too! In the meantime, got the SM replacement Friday of last week and Tam's replacement came in today! Soooooo, I have two good pipes and two tossers.
What a difference between the Tam pipe and the SM one as far as construction and some dimensional changes too. Diameter is 3/8" less on the outer pipe and and 1/4" less on the inner pipe from Tam.
If anyone needs a SM pipe for their 1/5 F-16 and installing a P-200, I'll sell one for a decent price and I have a great box to ship it in.
What a difference between the Tam pipe and the SM one as far as construction and some dimensional changes too. Diameter is 3/8" less on the outer pipe and and 1/4" less on the inner pipe from Tam.
If anyone needs a SM pipe for their 1/5 F-16 and installing a P-200, I'll sell one for a decent price and I have a great box to ship it in.
11-24-2015, 07:46 PM
#119
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what is the biggest motor that this airframe can handle? Any test done with a B300F or JC300?
The included pipe can handle 300N?
The included pipe can handle 300N?
Last edited by DiscoWings; 11-24-2015 at 08:06 PM.
11-25-2015, 05:11 AM
#120
My Feedback: (86)
Great way to set up the tanks. I am considering just going with the side tanks for fuel and using the center tank for smoke. A couple guys did theirs that way to save on takeoff weight by about 4 lbs! The center tank holds 80 oz. and the Smoke tank holds 84 oz. so no loss of smoke oil capacity. The side tanks hold 104 oz. each, so 208 oz. At full throttle, a P-200rx consumes 24.7 oz. per min. So, that's over 8 min. if I flew at full throttle the whole time!
The other option is to plumb all three tanks, mark the side tanks at 40 oz. less on each side and fill to there as an option to save on weight...that way you have the storage if you want to fly to Alaska!!!
What are some of you other guys doing with this setup? Are you doing 3 tanks or just the sides?
Rex
The other option is to plumb all three tanks, mark the side tanks at 40 oz. less on each side and fill to there as an option to save on weight...that way you have the storage if you want to fly to Alaska!!!
What are some of you other guys doing with this setup? Are you doing 3 tanks or just the sides?
Rex
Last edited by rbxbear44; 11-25-2015 at 05:14 AM.
11-25-2015, 05:25 AM
#121
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rbxbear44,
Thanks for the great pictures. Ive been following this thread since it started. I will start my 1/5 F-16 build in Jan. Trying to finish a scratch built jet by Christmas.
Your stab servo photos were very helpful in understanding how to set it up. Keep them coming on your build.
Here is my motivation photo just out of the box. Cant wait to get started.
Thanks again, Gary Jones
Thanks for the great pictures. Ive been following this thread since it started. I will start my 1/5 F-16 build in Jan. Trying to finish a scratch built jet by Christmas.
Your stab servo photos were very helpful in understanding how to set it up. Keep them coming on your build.
Here is my motivation photo just out of the box. Cant wait to get started.
Thanks again, Gary Jones
is it only on the photo that the liitle flags are not right? Look like that they stand on the head.
Best regards
Felix
11-25-2015, 05:17 PM
#122
My Feedback: (20)
Felix,
You are correct!
My F-16 kit is back in bubble wrap for now. Hope to get started in JAN.
I looked at the photos I took in July when I unpacked it for a first look and your are absolutely correct. Very good eye. I never noticed the right side flag field is upside down.
I am dumbfounded! How could the Skymaster paint shop put the entire flag field upside down on the right side and it be missed before it left the factory?
Further more how do I fix it? It is unacceptable and a gross error to have the flags upside down. Anybody have any ideas. It would take an entire forward fuse section to fix it. Aaarrrgh!!!!
Left side flag field Right side flag field (fuzzy because I had to enlarge it a lot from the photo)
I'm feeling kind of sick about it right now. Anybody have any ideas?
Thanks, Gary
You are correct!
My F-16 kit is back in bubble wrap for now. Hope to get started in JAN.
I looked at the photos I took in July when I unpacked it for a first look and your are absolutely correct. Very good eye. I never noticed the right side flag field is upside down.
I am dumbfounded! How could the Skymaster paint shop put the entire flag field upside down on the right side and it be missed before it left the factory?
Further more how do I fix it? It is unacceptable and a gross error to have the flags upside down. Anybody have any ideas. It would take an entire forward fuse section to fix it. Aaarrrgh!!!!
Left side flag field Right side flag field (fuzzy because I had to enlarge it a lot from the photo)
I'm feeling kind of sick about it right now. Anybody have any ideas?
Thanks, Gary
11-25-2015, 06:46 PM
#125
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That scheme is painted int he mold according to sky master, is that flag a decal or is cleared over? If its a decal should be simple to take off and get a replacement form skymaster. If it is cleared over then you'll need to masking tape off the area around it and sand off with some 400 gritt using a da or hand block, apply new sticker and then re-clear.
