Skymaster 1/5 Scale F16 Build Thread
#127
My Feedback: (20)
Hi All,
Regarding the upside down flag field on the Thunderbird scheme, I went out and unwrapped the forward fuse section today and verified again it really is upside down on the right side.
Looks like the flag field is a pre-printed vinyl sticker that was applied and clear coated. The clear coat is pretty bad over the flags with bubbles.
Being a veteran and having flown the Viper for 15 years I will have to correct this problem. We can't leave the flag be upside down.
I will send these photos to Chief and Skymaster to see if we can work out a solution.
Photo in July after initial unpack. I did not see the flag field error.
Photos taken today. Left is ok. Right is upside down.
Felix, Thanks for noticing the error and letting me know.
Gary
Regarding the upside down flag field on the Thunderbird scheme, I went out and unwrapped the forward fuse section today and verified again it really is upside down on the right side.
Looks like the flag field is a pre-printed vinyl sticker that was applied and clear coated. The clear coat is pretty bad over the flags with bubbles.
Being a veteran and having flown the Viper for 15 years I will have to correct this problem. We can't leave the flag be upside down.
I will send these photos to Chief and Skymaster to see if we can work out a solution.
Photo in July after initial unpack. I did not see the flag field error.
Photos taken today. Left is ok. Right is upside down.
Felix, Thanks for noticing the error and letting me know.
Gary
#130
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Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Pembroke Pines, FL
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Viper1GJ The Thunderbird F-16 is not mine, it belongs to a friend and I am building it for him. I personally think that a Behotec 220 is more than enough power however My friend likes to do a lot of High Alpha and he wants to be able to pull straight vertical out of a High Alpha. We are using a Tam pipe for this F-16 and no bypass. The tanks all have JMP high flow fittings and we will be running a smoke tank. My F-16 is the royal netherlands scheme and I have a Behotec 220 for that. I want mine a little lighter and less fuel consumption so I can have longer flights. I'm not into High Alpha's so I do not need a 300. As far as the former on top of the hatch, I had to mill out some of the vertical face to the hatch so it could fit over the smoke tank. I added the G-10 former just to stiffen things in that area.
#132
My Feedback: (86)
Been working on the pipe/turbine/ByPass install the past few days. Going with a Tam Pipe and having JetCat P-200rx has created some work, well worth it...but work! JetCat mounts are not center to the turbine, so shimming and fitting was a bit of a chore. AND, the crazy huge FOD screen for the 200 creates some challenges with the ByPass because of the FOD ring being so wide as it meets the front of the turbine. One more thing, because of the geometry, I needed to add 1/2" to the length of the ByPass.
Plus the Tam Pipe is smaller in diameter and uses a smaller trumpet end.
I am not done with the ByPass work but I have got it to a nice fit. Will get everything nice and tidy and then post pics of the finished product.
Pipe adjustment at the business end!
Fitting the Pipe and ByPass along with the P-200rx
Plus the Tam Pipe is smaller in diameter and uses a smaller trumpet end.
I am not done with the ByPass work but I have got it to a nice fit. Will get everything nice and tidy and then post pics of the finished product.
Pipe adjustment at the business end!
Fitting the Pipe and ByPass along with the P-200rx
#133
My Feedback: (86)
While I'm letting epoxy dry on the ByPass sections, I tackled needing to strengthen the intake. Some of the guys are saying they intake is collapsing at the joint when at full throttle. I put basswood blocks with Hysol underneath, creating a center opening for the center fuel cell plumbing runs. Then I added a vertical brace of 1/8" x 3/4" aluminum from Ace Hardware (plus it gives a somewhat scale look even though it's further back), with ply supports on both ends.
When I am ready to join everything, I wrap both side of the intakes with CF cloth, but still being able to separate them if I need to get access to the fuel cells.
When I am ready to join everything, I wrap both side of the intakes with CF cloth, but still being able to separate them if I need to get access to the fuel cells.
#135
My Feedback: (20)
Regarding the upside down flags...
Skymaster and Chief are going to send me a new flag decal sticker. They told me to score the edge of the existing decal and cut the clear coat. Then peel off the upside down decal. Then replace with a new one.
I hope this works and will see if it looks OK with out clear coat. If I need to clear coat the decal does anybody have suggestions about how to do it with out clearing the whole front fuse part?
Thanks,
Gary
Skymaster and Chief are going to send me a new flag decal sticker. They told me to score the edge of the existing decal and cut the clear coat. Then peel off the upside down decal. Then replace with a new one.
I hope this works and will see if it looks OK with out clear coat. If I need to clear coat the decal does anybody have suggestions about how to do it with out clearing the whole front fuse part?
Thanks,
Gary
#137
Regarding the upside down flags...
Skymaster and Chief are going to send me a new flag decal sticker. They told me to score the edge of the existing decal and cut the clear coat. Then peel off the upside down decal. Then replace with a new one.
I hope this works and will see if it looks OK with out clear coat. If I need to clear coat the decal does anybody have suggestions about how to do it with out clearing the whole front fuse part?
Thanks,
Gary
Skymaster and Chief are going to send me a new flag decal sticker. They told me to score the edge of the existing decal and cut the clear coat. Then peel off the upside down decal. Then replace with a new one.
I hope this works and will see if it looks OK with out clear coat. If I need to clear coat the decal does anybody have suggestions about how to do it with out clearing the whole front fuse part?
Thanks,
Gary
rex love the pipe mount fitting you made, nice simple way to attach the pipe. May have to still that one on my next project
Last edited by FenderBean; 11-30-2015 at 07:17 PM.
#140
Yes sorry thought u may have had the flat clear coat, I think the gloss will work just fine since you are just applying to the decal. Go light on the first couple of coats and build up to a rich clear finish. If you go heavy to fast you will ruin the decal, depending on what the decal is made of. I have used this same method to fuel proof decals I have printed on a semi clear decal paper. Works great!
#141
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Baton Rouge, LA
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2 part eurathane clear will give you the "shell and shine" of the rest of the plane something that will be hard to get with a spray can... I think viperg1 you will need to go to to an auto shop to get it to be perfect it should be quick but I'm thinking pulling the decal is going to pull the white basecoat so it won't be as simple as replacing the decal, more likely, take off decal, sand, re-spray with white base, and then re clear and blend.
#150
My Feedback: (86)
Had some travel last week but back at it. Been a long time since I did a full ByPass but had some items to overcome. First, the Tam Pipe made for a much different install than the stock pipe and required me to add 1/2" to the length of the ByPass. Then, the FOD screen on the P-200 created another fit issue since the ring of the screen protrudes out to the side significantly. So, here is what I did...
Had to create a "ring" that gave me the extra room for the FOD screen...lot's of work! But it came out good! Now I am finishing up the intake reinforcement, got the UniLight AB ring installed and will finish up the fuel cell install...move to the nose!
Had to create a "ring" that gave me the extra room for the FOD screen...lot's of work! But it came out good! Now I am finishing up the intake reinforcement, got the UniLight AB ring installed and will finish up the fuel cell install...move to the nose!