rbxbear44

My Feedback: (86)

Was able to maiden my F-16 today. Great flying bird for sure. A bit of "cracking code" to get the DX-18 setup right for flapperons and tailerons, thanks to Joe Rafaloski and Mike Pascoe for a day of getting the programming right. But now all set. Have the CG at 275, which feels pretty good.

Thanks to Craig South for all your help, spending time on initial setup and build intel. Too bad you fly an off brand radio...

I'm very happy with this bird.

Rex

Levi Wags

Nice work Rex. Congrats. I just received mine yesterday. I'm looking forward to getting to the stage you're at.

Levi

NICKELUP

My Feedback: (82)

Hi Rex congratulations on your successful maiden. Any video of it? Frank

bri6672

My Feedback: (6)

Congrats!! I hope to get back on mine soon!

FenderBean

Anyone tried flying this big jet with all the drop tanks and wing ordnance? If so what kind of weights are you looking at?

rbxbear44

My Feedback: (86)

Thanks Frank! Everyone was so intense on watching it fly, no one thought to grab a video of it, LOL! It took ALL DAY for a Team Horizon pilot, Joe Rafalowski and also Mike Pascoe to crack the code on slats/flaperons/tailerons mixing for 3 flight modes on a DX-18...by the time I was taxiing out, no one was thinking video!

But the maiden (trim) and second (maneuvers) flight went well. I'll make sure and get some good video at MS AB Jet event next month.

The goal was getting the two LTMA-1 flights done this weekend with two CD"s to sign off since I was the builder (I am CD but cannot sign off on my own builds). TONS of vertical power with a P-200rx. Flew 7 minutes each flight and landed with about 1/4 tanks remaining. Just over half throttle was my stick position until doing verticals, Half Cubans, etc.

I plumbed this with just the saddle tanks, using the lower center tank for smoke. I did plumb in a center 24oz. "hopper" tank to eliminate possible cavitation issues that typifies two large side tank plumbing schemes.

Thx Bri6672!

Rex

IFLYBVM2

My Feedback: (360)

Question for all you 1/5 SM guys :
I know that the overall height of the servos have to be adjusted to get the bearing to line up properly with the surfaces. Would it be OK to shim the bearing up on the servo arm with washers instead of shimming the servo itself ? Any negatives to doing that way ?
Thanks-Mike O.

rbxbear44

My Feedback: (86)

Mike, are you using the rubber grommets for the servo screws? If so, scrap those and just go direct screws and washer. I just added washers underneath the servo to get the correct alignment.

Also, what Arms are you using? I went with the MPI's and really had no height issues, other than some canting with a thin washer or two to get the correct angle.

Rex

bri6672

My Feedback: (6)

Raise the servo like Rex said not the arms! Is you raise the arm the. Less of the spline is making contact with the arm itself. That could lead to a failure in this high torque scenario...

George

My Feedback: (57)

I haven't built the 1/5, but I think he asking about "shimming" the bearing on the arm, not the servo arm itself. With the bearing moved out on the arm, (depending how much) I would think this would add more 'twisting' force to the arm. I would do what Rex suggest.

bri6672

My Feedback: (6)

Either way that's a bad idea, shims under the servo like Rex said is the proper way. Anything else becomes a weak point...

rbxbear44

My Feedback: (86)

I had no need to stack several washers under the bearings for sure. I think maybe 1 or 2. Now, on the Rudder, come to think of it I did have to use the rubber grommets and brass screw inserts to get the ball link on the arm high enough into the channel for the rudder movement to be secure. I ended up having to cut a slot for the ball link and servo arm to clear the hatch cover.

rbxbear44

My Feedback: (86)

Here is my Taileron setup, showing the bearing stack, arm and servo. Looks like I did use the grommets on these too. I know I didn't on the flapperons and slats.

Hope this helps.

heraldoboldrin

To understand how is the problem with the Front gear door, i use o Gopro... the air cilinder isn't strong anough during high speed

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9f9k...ature=youtu.be

heraldoboldrin

During elevaor i almost crash it.. turbine shutdow

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gVcR...ature=youtu.be

and this is a nice flight with light..

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W4e3dT_xVnc

IFLYBVM2

My Feedback: (360)

Thanks rxbear and others-have the servos shimmed now and all is well.

FenderBean

Hey Rex did you happen to beaf up the servo box for your stabs? If they used the same setup as the f-14 you may want to glue some real hobby ply on the pack with long enough screws to grab the new blocks. It may appear solid but after a little use they may loosen up. If this is that same light ply the tend to use. See you at ms jets!

rbxbear44

My Feedback: (86)

Hey Keith, just back from West Africa and looking forward to MS AB in a few weeks. Thanks for mentioning this. The good news is how accessible this part is for checking. The whole stab setup is pretty strong, along with the locking mechanism for the stabs to be removable. The only issue I had was the stab insert track that holds the bearings from the servo arms...got a bit loose. So that was fixed and checked on the stab too. But that's why i have an extra set of eyes looking over everything I assemble BEFORE I fly. Craig South, who has one of these was helping me with setup and he caught it.

I really like the fact that the stabs have two points of strength...the pivot and also the servo arm. Great design!

Rex

FenderBean

Cool deal, im bringing that flag for sure this time, I should have sent it a long time ago.

Viper1GJ

My Feedback: (20)

Finally getting started after 8 months.




Resting place of jet kit during last 8 months on the top shelf. Finally on table and removed bubble wrap for last time.

First step after unwrapping all the parts was to remove the speed brakes to make it easier to work on table. Check the wood screws. I found them all loose and too small for me. I will replace the screws later.

Viper1GJ

My Feedback: (20)

Second step was to fix the error the Skymaster paint shop made by putting the flag decal on upside down. John at Skymaster sent me replacement decal last year.




I scored around the original vinyl decal with a new blade to cut the clear coat and was able to peel off the old decal. I wet sanded around edge with 400 grit paper to smooth the edge of the clear coat. I was then able to apply the new decal, right side up. I hope to respray there clear with an airbrush later to make the sanded area and decal glossy again.


Later I will try to correct the second paint shop error shown below.



The full scale canopy graphics are on the left. My canopy is on the right. Since the lettering and brackets are painted on I will have to sand them off, repaint the white, re-apply graphics, and re-clear. I will go ahead and personalize the name when doing this.

Viper1GJ

My Feedback: (20)

I removed the nose gear to do some finish work inside the gear well. I found all the mounting bolts loose. I will reinstall the bolts with ND Industries Vibra Tite VC-3 soft reusable thread locker.




I found several of the main gear bolts not tight also. I suggest everyone check and secure all mounting bolts and screws installed by the factory.

Has anyone removed the main gear assembly? If so how did you get it out? It does not seem it will come out after the center wing former is installed at
the factory.

When removing the air lines I found several that pulled off way too easy. After examination it was only on the main and nose gears. The door cylinders and tees were good. It seems that the air nipples were also painted when the gear was painted and the paint filled in behind the air nipple barb and rounded it off making a good grip in the plastic air line impossible. I will have to clean the paint off all the air nipples on both the main and nose gears.

Gary

Viper1GJ

My Feedback: (20)

Rudder servo installed today. The nipple pin was installed 15mm from servo arm hole as per manual. The factory servo mounting hole was in the right place except that the distance from the rudder post to the nipple pin was only 97mm instead of 100mm. The nipple pin was already at the back edge of the rudder slot and if I had moved it to 100mm as per manual it would not fit into the rudder slot. It worked well at 97mm.



The rudder slot was full of paint. I filled it up with gel paint stripper and went to lunch. After returning the paint was easily cleaned out and the rudder worked perfectly with no slop.


My pilot arrived today from Wilson at Tailored Pilots in England. Fantastic pilot figure custom painted with my old Air Force call sign. Thanks Wilson!

rbxbear44

My Feedback: (86)

I have. You need to release the retract cylinder on one side. Then retract the gear on both sides, holding the tires with your hands to clear the first portion of the center of the fuse bridge, while you push it away from the side of the retract you released the cylinder from. Work it slowly. The Gear Plates barely fit through the gear door area. Be careful as you remove or install the gear...you can put stress on the forward door hinge and break it if you aren't careful.

Also, not a bad idea to put fender washers or at least washers on the inside of the screws that hold the gear plates, especially the outer ones on the rear main gear plate. Tightening the screws will embed them into the plywood former, weakening the strength of the screw.

I replaced all factory air lines with my own festo lines...just my way of doing things.

Rex

Viper1GJ

My Feedback: (20)

Rex,

Thanks for the tips. I have the assembly loose in the fuse but could not figure out how to remove it. I will try again tomorrow with your tips.

I also had no washers on any bolts that were contacting the wood and have already planned to add fender washers when reinstalling them. I will replace all the air lines also using my own color coded lines and festos fittings.

Thanks Gary