Skymaster 1/5 Scale F16 Build Thread
04-25-2016, 12:50 PM
#278
About the CG, mine hasn't Smoke, and use Jetcat P300, the light Battery is inside the rudder LIPO2S 1800, and another 3 battey close to copckpit.. (1- LIPO2S 5000 and 2 - LIPO2S 3300) and i still need 1/2 pound of weight inside the tail cone to get the CG at the back position of the manual and my pilot is heavy.. from Tailored pilots.
04-25-2016, 01:17 PM
#279
My Feedback: (86)
I ended up with 3oz. in the tail. I used the Warbirdpilots.com one which is about half the weight of the TaylorMade pilot. All my batteries, except for the Lights ended up in the turbine hatch area, in the fairing openings. Very nice to have a full ByPass and not having to pull the cockpit to get to the batteries. I created a simple "sled" inside the fairings to hold each battery nice a snug.
275 is where my CG is. Had several solid flights at MS with this bird. LOVE it!
Mike, I sent you a email on this.
Rex
275 is where my CG is. Had several solid flights at MS with this bird. LOVE it!
Mike, I sent you a email on this.
Rex
04-25-2016, 03:56 PM
#280
My Feedback: (20)
About the CG, mine hasn't Smoke, and use Jetcat P300, the light Battery is inside the rudder LIPO2S 1800, and another 3 battey close to copckpit.. (1- LIPO2S 5000 and 2 - LIPO2S 3300) and i still need 1/2 pound of weight inside the tail cone to get the CG at the back position of the manual and my pilot is heavy.. from Tailored pilots.
The manual says 250-280mm. Are you flying at 280mm?
Thanks
Gary
05-05-2016, 02:24 PM
#281
My Feedback: (20)
Upper fuse and engine hatch need trimming to fit smoke tank.
Intake wrapped with carbon fiber cloth. Much stiffer now at the joint and should be ok for the big engine.
Intake wrapped with carbon fiber cloth. Much stiffer now at the joint and should be ok for the big engine.
Last edited by Viper1GJ; 05-05-2016 at 04:17 PM.
05-05-2016, 03:40 PM
#282
My Feedback: (20)
I modified the cockpit tub and secured in fuse with 4-40 socket head bolts and blind nuts on bottom side.
I modified the stock seat to look more like the F-16 Aces II ejection seat. I removed the erroneous ejection handles on each side and replaced them with side leg guards and added the seat arming lever on the left. Also moved the emergency manual chute handle from the left to the right side and made it shorter. I shortened the wire simulating the emergency oxygen tube on the left side and extended the center ejection handle so it would show between my pilots legs. Skymaster painted the seat black instead of grey but I did not want to redo it so I left it black. One of the pitot tubes on top was missing so I still have to make a replacement and reattach them to the seat top.
I modified the stock seat to look more like the F-16 Aces II ejection seat. I removed the erroneous ejection handles on each side and replaced them with side leg guards and added the seat arming lever on the left. Also moved the emergency manual chute handle from the left to the right side and made it shorter. I shortened the wire simulating the emergency oxygen tube on the left side and extended the center ejection handle so it would show between my pilots legs. Skymaster painted the seat black instead of grey but I did not want to redo it so I left it black. One of the pitot tubes on top was missing so I still have to make a replacement and reattach them to the seat top.
05-05-2016, 04:04 PM
#283
My Feedback: (20)
Sanded lettering applied in wrong place off the canopy rail and repainted. Will have to apply clear coat on canopy rail and then reapply lettering in correct location.
Strapped the Tailored Pilot Thunderbird pilot into cockpit with velcro seat belt. The pilot is really cool and even has my old call sign on the helmet. It was not cheap or quick but it is really good looking.
Painted inside of the canopy rails and rear of canopy area flat black. Painted inside fuse sides, bottom, and rear of cockpit area grey. View from sides and top shows grey inside like in full scale jet.
Gary
Strapped the Tailored Pilot Thunderbird pilot into cockpit with velcro seat belt. The pilot is really cool and even has my old call sign on the helmet. It was not cheap or quick but it is really good looking.
Painted inside of the canopy rails and rear of canopy area flat black. Painted inside fuse sides, bottom, and rear of cockpit area grey. View from sides and top shows grey inside like in full scale jet.
Gary
Last edited by Viper1GJ; 05-05-2016 at 04:20 PM.
05-05-2016, 04:16 PM
#284
My Feedback: (20)
I am having problems fitting front and rear canopy together. If I put them together where there is no gap the front canopy will not open correctly and scrapes the rear section. To get the front to open I have to have a large gap between the front and rear. Also the rear section is wider than the front and the sides do not line up flush with each other. If you squeeze the rear sides flush it pushes up the center of the rear section and makes the front impossible to open.
This one has me stumped. Has anyone had similar issues and how did you fix it?
Thanks
Gary
This one has me stumped. Has anyone had similar issues and how did you fix it?
Thanks
Gary
Last edited by Viper1GJ; 05-08-2016 at 06:07 AM.
05-08-2016, 06:09 AM
#286
My Feedback: (20)
Hi Mike,
I just put it aside for now. Hope to find out if anybody else has had the canopy issue. It seems like the rear canopy is too large at the front end and if you move it up to close the gap the front canopy will not clear it when opening.
Gary
05-09-2016, 07:46 AM
#287
My Feedback: (86)
Yours looks pretty much like mine did. Fortunately, mine was black and easier to hide!
It's more of an angle issue than anything else. I did do some very light trimming at the top to close the gaps a bit, while also sanding the outside edges of the bottom of the rear frame...being VERY careful to check and fit, check and fit. Once I got it to where the canopy worked well, I used Silicone to glue it in place. Once dried, I worked on the fit.
The gaps I had were about 1/8" on the lower ends of the sides. I then simply filled that gap with a good bead of silicone sealer, making sure the inside edge was cleaned well to get good adhesion to the rear canopy piece. I used tape to keep the outside (visible) side of the silicone bead straight. Once fully set up and dry, I trimmed, fitted and paint matched the gaps...cannot see it all all when closed! Looks literally seamless.
Hope this helps.
Rex
It's more of an angle issue than anything else. I did do some very light trimming at the top to close the gaps a bit, while also sanding the outside edges of the bottom of the rear frame...being VERY careful to check and fit, check and fit. Once I got it to where the canopy worked well, I used Silicone to glue it in place. Once dried, I worked on the fit.
The gaps I had were about 1/8" on the lower ends of the sides. I then simply filled that gap with a good bead of silicone sealer, making sure the inside edge was cleaned well to get good adhesion to the rear canopy piece. I used tape to keep the outside (visible) side of the silicone bead straight. Once fully set up and dry, I trimmed, fitted and paint matched the gaps...cannot see it all all when closed! Looks literally seamless.
Hope this helps.
Rex
Last edited by rbxbear44; 05-09-2016 at 07:53 AM.
05-09-2016, 04:15 PM
#288
My Feedback: (20)
Thanks Rex,
I was thinking about using some kind of fill in. Never thought about silicon adhesive. How did you keep the silicon from sticking to the front canopy and the tape. Did you use some kind of release agent on them? Can you post some photos of your canopy fix?
Thanks.
Gary
I was thinking about using some kind of fill in. Never thought about silicon adhesive. How did you keep the silicon from sticking to the front canopy and the tape. Did you use some kind of release agent on them? Can you post some photos of your canopy fix?
Thanks.
Gary
05-09-2016, 04:18 PM
#289
My Feedback: (20)
I worked on several small items last week.
Laid in carbon fiber on the center bulkhead joint in fuse.
Removed the paint from the air nipples on all gear air cylinders with gel paint remover. The air lines grip very well now.
Prepared a removable bracket for the nose gear steering hydraulic cylinder
Attached wing tip missile rails with socket head wood screws.
Flaperon hinge wire is removable from outside the missile rail.
Used some foam pipe insulation to protect missile rails in wing bags.
Mounted and adjusted ventral fins and tail hook. I made the tail hook removable using 4-40 socket head bolts with rubber sealing washers into blind nuts inside the fuse.
Laid in carbon fiber on the center bulkhead joint in fuse.
Removed the paint from the air nipples on all gear air cylinders with gel paint remover. The air lines grip very well now.
Prepared a removable bracket for the nose gear steering hydraulic cylinder
Attached wing tip missile rails with socket head wood screws.
Flaperon hinge wire is removable from outside the missile rail.
Used some foam pipe insulation to protect missile rails in wing bags.
Mounted and adjusted ventral fins and tail hook. I made the tail hook removable using 4-40 socket head bolts with rubber sealing washers into blind nuts inside the fuse.
Last edited by Viper1GJ; 05-09-2016 at 04:30 PM.
05-09-2016, 04:20 PM
#290
My Feedback: (86)
Gary,
Once I had the rear piece set, I took the canopy off and put a heavy bead from the inside out, towards the tape I put on the outside to keep the seam straight and clean towards the outside. Hope that makes sense. I will go get some pics from my trailer, where the 16 is. I keep it in a covered storage near my house. Will post some in the next day or so.
Rex
Once I had the rear piece set, I took the canopy off and put a heavy bead from the inside out, towards the tape I put on the outside to keep the seam straight and clean towards the outside. Hope that makes sense. I will go get some pics from my trailer, where the 16 is. I keep it in a covered storage near my house. Will post some in the next day or so.
Rex
05-09-2016, 04:50 PM
#292
My Feedback: (20)
I mounted the fuel and smoke tanks and intake extension using a bracket system held in place by 4 bolts. By removing the 4 bolts I can remove all 4 tanks and the intake extension.
I made two "Z" brackets that hold the bottom center tank down, saddle tanks in place, intake extension against the front intake tube, and support the smoke tank. The upper front bracket holds the front of the smoke tank up and is secured with the top two fuse joining bolts.
Bottom center tank held in place by balsa blocks on front and side and on top by the Z bracket feet. Rear of tank will be protected from touching the front landing gear bolts (not in photo). The saddle tanks are held in place in front by balsa blocks and in rear by the center bulkhead.
I made two "Z" brackets that hold the bottom center tank down, saddle tanks in place, intake extension against the front intake tube, and support the smoke tank. The upper front bracket holds the front of the smoke tank up and is secured with the top two fuse joining bolts.
Bottom center tank held in place by balsa blocks on front and side and on top by the Z bracket feet. Rear of tank will be protected from touching the front landing gear bolts (not in photo). The saddle tanks are held in place in front by balsa blocks and in rear by the center bulkhead.
05-09-2016, 05:04 PM
#293
My Feedback: (20)
Front bracket holding smoke tank in place.
Z brackets are bolted to forward main gear bulkhead through mounting tabs on the bulkhead and hold bottom center tank down.
Intake extension has two plywood hooks epoxied to each side.
Intake extension installed first. Z brackets installed behind intake hooks hold the intake in place.
Z brackets are bolted to forward main gear bulkhead with 6-32 socket head bolts.
Brackets installed and ready for smoke tank install.
Smoke tank slides into position and is held up by Z brackets.
Service tray for fuel and smoke valves bolted behind smoke tank holds tank in place.
The whole system comes out for maintenance by removing just the 4 mounting bolts.
Gary
Last edited by Viper1GJ; 05-09-2016 at 05:12 PM.
05-11-2016, 05:04 PM
#295
My Feedback: (86)
Great work Gary! Really nice way to lay things out. I got rid of the top center tank completely since I am running a P-200rxi. After 6 min. of pretty aggressive flight, I land with about 1/3 of fuel in my side tanks. You guys with the 300's might even get better fuel efficiency than I am getting. I plumbed the center lower tank for smoke.
Will try and run by my trailer and get those pics I promised you of the gap filling silicone on the canopy tomorrow.
Rex
Will try and run by my trailer and get those pics I promised you of the gap filling silicone on the canopy tomorrow.
Rex
05-12-2016, 06:38 PM
#298
My Feedback: (86)
Gary,
Sorry but been tied up with...life. Will still get by my trailer tomorrow to get a few pics of the canopy. You just need to get that rear section set in place, getting it as close as you can to the forward canopy section and it still being able to operate. If you need to shave a bit on the inside of the upper frame of the rear section to let it clear the pivot, do it. One thing I forgot I did, was add some "skins" of flexible G10 to give me some "attachment" for the silicone bead. It's pretty easy once you set the rear section. The issue will be paint to use on the small fillet of the silicone.
Rex
Sorry but been tied up with...life. Will still get by my trailer tomorrow to get a few pics of the canopy. You just need to get that rear section set in place, getting it as close as you can to the forward canopy section and it still being able to operate. If you need to shave a bit on the inside of the upper frame of the rear section to let it clear the pivot, do it. One thing I forgot I did, was add some "skins" of flexible G10 to give me some "attachment" for the silicone bead. It's pretty easy once you set the rear section. The issue will be paint to use on the small fillet of the silicone.
Rex
05-13-2016, 02:50 AM
#299
My Feedback: (20)
Hi Rex,
No problem. I'm going into a 3 week F-16 work stop for "life events" also. End of school trip with grandkids, then First In Flight Jets, then another 10 day trip with grandkids in camper. It will be mid June before I get back to work on the F-16.
I was thinking about putting thin G10 on the rear canopy section also. I assume you put it on the inside of the rear section rim so it gives a base for the silicon filler like a small shelf.
Gary
No problem. I'm going into a 3 week F-16 work stop for "life events" also. End of school trip with grandkids, then First In Flight Jets, then another 10 day trip with grandkids in camper. It will be mid June before I get back to work on the F-16.
I was thinking about putting thin G10 on the rear canopy section also. I assume you put it on the inside of the rear section rim so it gives a base for the silicon filler like a small shelf.
Gary
Last edited by Viper1GJ; 05-13-2016 at 03:06 AM.
06-19-2016, 04:16 PM
#300
My Feedback: (20)
Finally back in the shop after about a month of no work on the F-16.
The JMP air trap and Intairco fuel filter arrived while I was out. I chose to mount the fuel system on a service board over the intake just forward of the smoke tank. It was really the only place it would fit.
Two plywood brackets built over the intake and epoxied to the fuse sides and top of intake. The bottom bracket is slotted to accept a tab on the service board. The board in secured on the top bracket with two screws.
JMP extra large air trap with 1/4" ID nibbles and Intairco fuel filter on right side. B300F pump and valves on left side. Angle of air trap keeps bubbles at very top next to input nipples. Plenty of room inside forward fuse section
The JMP air trap and Intairco fuel filter arrived while I was out. I chose to mount the fuel system on a service board over the intake just forward of the smoke tank. It was really the only place it would fit.
Two plywood brackets built over the intake and epoxied to the fuse sides and top of intake. The bottom bracket is slotted to accept a tab on the service board. The board in secured on the top bracket with two screws.
JMP extra large air trap with 1/4" ID nibbles and Intairco fuel filter on right side. B300F pump and valves on left side. Angle of air trap keeps bubbles at very top next to input nipples. Plenty of room inside forward fuse section
