Skymaster 1/5 Scale F16 Build Thread
#451
#452
Levi
if you use the Unilight controller with the skymaster light.. i think you will burn the lights.. i am not sure.. but skymaster sequencer using sequencer light to get the voltage dow to the light.. unilight dont.. all unilight has a eletronic component in each light so you can conect 2s lipo to it...
i am not sure about.. but this happened when i conect the unilight controller on mine.. i burn a lot of lights...
if you use the Unilight controller with the skymaster light.. i think you will burn the lights.. i am not sure.. but skymaster sequencer using sequencer light to get the voltage dow to the light.. unilight dont.. all unilight has a eletronic component in each light so you can conect 2s lipo to it...
i am not sure about.. but this happened when i conect the unilight controller on mine.. i burn a lot of lights...
#453
Thanks Heraldo. I didn't want to put new lights and controller in but sounds like I may have to. Wish I tested the lights earlier as its a pain to access now everything's installed.
#454
My Feedback: (86)
Anton,
Sent you a PM a week or so ago. Been trying to get a scale parts kit for my 1/5 F-16 since April when you announced they were available. Chief Aircraft promised me one...called every times and they said they never got them. Then I spoke with Craig South on several occasions and he said he would order me one...kept telling me it was coming, but never came. How do I get one of these?
Rex
Sent you a PM a week or so ago. Been trying to get a scale parts kit for my 1/5 F-16 since April when you announced they were available. Chief Aircraft promised me one...called every times and they said they never got them. Then I spoke with Craig South on several occasions and he said he would order me one...kept telling me it was coming, but never came. How do I get one of these?
Rex
#455
Please email to John by [email protected] that we will shiping to you diretly ., sorry for this problem,
#456
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Join Date: Nov 2012
Location: Deland, FL
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Sorry Rex
Dana sent two of these to Craig quite awhile ago, one for him and one for you.
The delay was postage was more expensive than the parts and he wanted to consolidate other parts with the detail kit.
It's likely in Craig's inventory somewhere but Good Luck getting it from the wife.
Dana sent two of these to Craig quite awhile ago, one for him and one for you.
The delay was postage was more expensive than the parts and he wanted to consolidate other parts with the detail kit.
It's likely in Craig's inventory somewhere but Good Luck getting it from the wife.
#457
My Feedback: (86)
Ok, thanks. Yea, I'll leave that one alone! Looking at the parts and the cost of them plus shipping...at $109 shipped, I might just fabricate them myself. Doesn't seem very cost effective. Plus, I'll probably be taking the Netherlands scheme down and finishing in Arctic Aggressor over the Winter, which might net me the time to create my own parts as I go.
#458
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Saint Johns, Florida
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Anyone have a picture of the centerline tank pylons and centerline tank installed? Before I go making hard points, I want to make sure the pylon orientation is correct, the location and why the rear stand off on the drop tank itlsef does not make contact with the fuselage. Thanks guys and gals!
#460
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Metairie, LA
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Viper, amazing craftsmanship.
Thats a lot of money, time on one RC airplane.
Many of the pictures I had to look twice to make sure it was a RC and not the real deal.
Good job!
Thats a lot of money, time on one RC airplane.
Many of the pictures I had to look twice to make sure it was a RC and not the real deal.
Good job!
#461
My Feedback: (20)
Update on F-16 Mods for 2017 season.
Jet is disassembled to install new Powerbox Royal SRS and PowerBus servo system. This is to replace the Sbus decoders that I suspect have caused turbine start and gear extend problems last year.
Also the SM smoke tank is removed and new smoke tanks built to fit beside the turbine in the wing strakes to keep the jet from being so nose heavy with smoke fluid in the forward SM tank.
Parts and Powerbox Royal SRS and PowerBus adapters
Pink foam template for saddle smoke tanks, blue foam blocks cut and sanded, test fit in wing strakes
Tank plugs after final sanding, low temp film covering applied, sticks added to make "tank lollipops", layup stand fabricated
Jet is disassembled to install new Powerbox Royal SRS and PowerBus servo system. This is to replace the Sbus decoders that I suspect have caused turbine start and gear extend problems last year.
Also the SM smoke tank is removed and new smoke tanks built to fit beside the turbine in the wing strakes to keep the jet from being so nose heavy with smoke fluid in the forward SM tank.
Parts and Powerbox Royal SRS and PowerBus adapters
Pink foam template for saddle smoke tanks, blue foam blocks cut and sanded, test fit in wing strakes
Tank plugs after final sanding, low temp film covering applied, sticks added to make "tank lollipops", layup stand fabricated
#462
My Feedback: (20)
Making smoke tanks using lost foam method.
Tank plugs waxed, layups started. Layups finished, this part took 4 days between cures and sanding. I had problems with keeping the edges of the glass down on the corners. Just kept sanding and layups with 3 oz cloth. Dowels removed and plug hole drilled, cut lines marked.
Plugs cut in two, foam removed with thinner, covering removed inside shell, shells cleaned up and wax removed from inside.
Tank fittings installed wth hysol inside and out, tanks halves edge glued with hysol and weighted, waiting for center glassing strip.
Tank plugs waxed, layups started. Layups finished, this part took 4 days between cures and sanding. I had problems with keeping the edges of the glass down on the corners. Just kept sanding and layups with 3 oz cloth. Dowels removed and plug hole drilled, cut lines marked.
Plugs cut in two, foam removed with thinner, covering removed inside shell, shells cleaned up and wax removed from inside.
Tank fittings installed wth hysol inside and out, tanks halves edge glued with hysol and weighted, waiting for center glassing strip.
#463
My Feedback: (20)
Smoke tanks completed.
Center glass strip added and tanks complete. Underwater leak test shows no bubbles...Yea! And they fit! Total capacity is 46 oz each for a total of 96 oz. SM OEM tank was 80 oz but way forward of the CG. I hope these will help the take off CG.
Center glass strip added and tanks complete. Underwater leak test shows no bubbles...Yea! And they fit! Total capacity is 46 oz each for a total of 96 oz. SM OEM tank was 80 oz but way forward of the CG. I hope these will help the take off CG.
Last edited by Viper1GJ; 02-08-2017 at 05:58 PM.
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ultibipe (11-03-2022)
#467
My Feedback: (20)
Thanks for the compliments.
Just to be clear I got the idea from Levi, post #386 in this thread. I just copied his great idea. Thanks Levi!
I have never done any tanks before so it was a learning experience for me. I did not want to make a mold for just one set of tanks so I use the lost foam method. Its not hard, just takes time, but was very rewarding when they were finally done and worked. I had real doubts after the first layup layers when the edges would not lay down well but it got better after 4 sessions of layup, cure, and sanding.
Sorry I won't be making any more since the plugs were destroyed in the process.
Gary
Just to be clear I got the idea from Levi, post #386 in this thread. I just copied his great idea. Thanks Levi!
I have never done any tanks before so it was a learning experience for me. I did not want to make a mold for just one set of tanks so I use the lost foam method. Its not hard, just takes time, but was very rewarding when they were finally done and worked. I had real doubts after the first layup layers when the edges would not lay down well but it got better after 4 sessions of layup, cure, and sanding.
Sorry I won't be making any more since the plugs were destroyed in the process.
Gary
#469
My Feedback: (20)
Hi Rex,
I did some pipe maintenance also. My pipe was off center in the tail cone. I found the outer wall was compressed at the rear mounting bracket and it was sagging. I put two wraps of HD aluminum tape under the mounting ring and it is very stiff now.
Gary
I did some pipe maintenance also. My pipe was off center in the tail cone. I found the outer wall was compressed at the rear mounting bracket and it was sagging. I put two wraps of HD aluminum tape under the mounting ring and it is very stiff now.
Gary
#470
Hi Gary,
Frank here, Karen and I checked in with your crew while at the Georgia Jets event.
Im your fellow CRCS member living in Summerville.
Wanting to reach out to the guys, and in need of contacts for the "South Carolina Jet Gang"
Now that we're quite settled, I'm hoping to fly with the gang on your monthly, or quarterly outings we spoke of while in Georgia.
When you come up for air from the awesome smoke-tank assembly, please drop me a note so I can give you a shout and catch up.
Take care, talk soon.
Franko
Frank here, Karen and I checked in with your crew while at the Georgia Jets event.
Im your fellow CRCS member living in Summerville.
Wanting to reach out to the guys, and in need of contacts for the "South Carolina Jet Gang"
Now that we're quite settled, I'm hoping to fly with the gang on your monthly, or quarterly outings we spoke of while in Georgia.
When you come up for air from the awesome smoke-tank assembly, please drop me a note so I can give you a shout and catch up.
Take care, talk soon.
Franko
#471
Good day all. Has anyone had nose gear door issues? Mine barely opens enough for the gear to retract and rubs the door. Also it does not close all the way. Is this common and Any fixes for this issue?
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
#473
My Feedback: (20)
Digital,
I had to grind out some of the inside of the door to get it to completely close. Mine clears when NG is extended but its close.
Some guys have had issues with it opening with high speed but I have not. I don't fly real fast anyway. The fix was to replace the door cylinder.
Gary
I had to grind out some of the inside of the door to get it to completely close. Mine clears when NG is extended but its close.
Some guys have had issues with it opening with high speed but I have not. I don't fly real fast anyway. The fix was to replace the door cylinder.
Gary
#474
My Feedback: (86)
Also, highly suggested before each flight...before turning the plane, turn the wheel to each side several times to get the hydraulic piston moving and less stiff. At least do that first flight of the day.
Rex