FEJ 1/6 F-16 NON- Honeycomb. Any issues?
03-07-2015, 08:08 AM
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FEJ 1/6 F-16 NON- Honeycomb. Any issues?
I'm fully aware of the issues with FEJ in general and the Honeycomb airframe debacle in particular, so no need to beat a dead horse on those issues.
I have an FEJ 1/6 F-16 NON-HONEYCOMB that I bough new four years ago, before FEJ started using Honeycomb in their planes. I have searched and cannot find any instance of a failure on this traditional Non-Honeycomb airframe, so I believe it should be good to go. Does anyone know of any problems with this particular airframe that make it non-airworthy?
Again, I don't want to start an FEJ bashing thread, I just want to know if anyone has had problems with this specific airframe.
I have an FEJ 1/6 F-16 NON-HONEYCOMB that I bough new four years ago, before FEJ started using Honeycomb in their planes. I have searched and cannot find any instance of a failure on this traditional Non-Honeycomb airframe, so I believe it should be good to go. Does anyone know of any problems with this particular airframe that make it non-airworthy?
Again, I don't want to start an FEJ bashing thread, I just want to know if anyone has had problems with this specific airframe.
03-07-2015, 08:52 AM
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Jack, My f-16 was like this the only issues I had were minor. I beefed up the aft bulkhead where the gear mounts and the one just before it. Its very thin and supports the wing loads, it will break on the bottom. I laminated mine one both sides with some aluminum that a friend cut on his cnc machine. Check the nose gear, it has some threaded pieces that rotate and mine snapped at GA jets because it on had about 1/8 of an inch screwed in on one side and 1/2 inch on the other side. I converted my gear to electric but if you run air, I recommend once valve for the nose and one for the mains.
03-07-2015, 02:22 PM
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Hey Keith,
Thanks for the tips! I think we both bought our F-16's at about the same time, and I followed your thread as you built yours. I am just now getting around to finishing mine. With all of the problems FEJ has had with their honeycomb airframes, I mostly wanted to make sure that the wings and tail would stay on this one. As far as I have been able to discern, the non-honeycomb airframes are safe to fly.
Thanks for the tips! I think we both bought our F-16's at about the same time, and I followed your thread as you built yours. I am just now getting around to finishing mine. With all of the problems FEJ has had with their honeycomb airframes, I mostly wanted to make sure that the wings and tail would stay on this one. As far as I have been able to discern, the non-honeycomb airframes are safe to fly.
03-07-2015, 08:50 PM
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I would do some calculations on the horizontal stab pivot position. It seems that most of the issues have been with full flying stabs. Pivot seems to be a little aft of where it should be. And make sure the rudder setup is solid.
03-07-2015, 08:52 PM
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Hey Randy hows it going? im not sure if his is the same as mine but the one I had was the updated rudder that fixed the flutter problem.
Last edited by FenderBean; 03-07-2015 at 08:54 PM.
03-08-2015, 03:53 AM
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Hi,
I have 55 flights on my honeycomb F16 , as someone mentioned 80% of the problems i have is related to leaks on landing gears, i had recently Fej sending me 3 new pistons but still got a leak whatever i do with the seals.
my other problem are the 2 bolts securing the wings main rod, i am now to 8mm threads from 4mm, .
Other than that the model flies very well !
I have 55 flights on my honeycomb F16 , as someone mentioned 80% of the problems i have is related to leaks on landing gears, i had recently Fej sending me 3 new pistons but still got a leak whatever i do with the seals.
my other problem are the 2 bolts securing the wings main rod, i am now to 8mm threads from 4mm, .
Other than that the model flies very well !
03-08-2015, 04:05 AM
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Fender- If I recall correctly, the bulkhead on your F-16 was Honeycomb. The bulkheads on mine are plywood, but I will take another look and see if it needs beefing up. The rudder linkage is internal. I may change it to an external setup such as the one used on the Skymaster F-16. When I tested the retracts, they held air overnight. I did open up the cylinders and make sure the O-rings were lubed. I use one of Tams fail safes on the gear.
Rudder linkage. Not adjusted yet, just mocked up at this point
03-08-2015, 07:41 AM
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I did have a couple in the front that you mount the equipment trays to but the gear bulkhead, and all aft bulkheads where the stabs mounted where ply. The ply they used was pretty thin and the landing gear itself started crushing the ply.
03-08-2015, 12:39 PM
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Thanks for the feedback guys! If all I have to worry about are leaky landing gear and beefing up the bulkheads, I will be happy! I just wanted to make sure that this airframe didn't have a problem shedding flying surfaces like the FEJ Hawks, F-14s, etc. that had the honeycomb construction.
03-08-2015, 05:39 PM
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I wouldn't assume the stabs are ok on pre-honeycomb versions. I built one for a friend when they first came out and the stab failed. Rolled in and burned. Nothing left of the plane. Do yourself a favor, absorb the loss on the airframe and dont put the rest of your equipment at risk. You should think about your own personal financial liability if someone gets hurt and ask yourself if it is worth the risk. Someone could get seriously injured and you could be sued. Is it really worth it?
Last edited by Gary Jefferson; 03-08-2015 at 05:44 PM.
03-08-2015, 06:16 PM
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Gary, any idea of what failed? Stab mounts, linkage, servo stripped or failed? This seems to be the only failure I have heard of or found so far on this airframe.
03-08-2015, 08:18 PM
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IMO you should boroscope that thing. x-ray it if you can. That would be ideal.
Todd at Dreamworks sells a nice little USB boroscope.
One of the other benefits of mass balancing stabs, the hole you make in the root of the stab for the lead can be used to stick the boroscope in and give a look inside to see what sort of structure exists.
Todd at Dreamworks sells a nice little USB boroscope.
One of the other benefits of mass balancing stabs, the hole you make in the root of the stab for the lead can be used to stick the boroscope in and give a look inside to see what sort of structure exists.
Last edited by dbsonic; 03-09-2015 at 11:40 AM.
03-09-2015, 06:26 AM
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I'll make sure and inspect the horizontal stabilizers and the mounts. I was planning on static balancing the stabs anyway, so I will see what I can discern of the interior.
03-09-2015, 06:59 AM
#17
Personally, there's no way I would fly that jet without removing the bottom skin over the stab pivot to see how it was mounted and do the necessary reinforcements. I'd do the same for the wing spars too...
Bob
03-09-2015, 09:43 AM
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I think that is very wise. I had one of the first ten 1/5 F-15's and opened up the stabs, re-boxed the stab pivot with AC Ply and CF cloth, Hysol. Also, re-established connection and increased load disbursement on the formers that held the servos in place AND the Stab Pivot Bearing, making a stronger connection with the rear Fuse former. Last thing I did was run a X pattern of 5 oz. CF cloth where the Vertical Fin/rudder structure was to give greater strength there...since that is typically a weak spot on the F-16 airframes in general. That Vertical Fin is a tall "weather vane" and will take some load too.
Once flight ready, took the plane through a very thorough AMA Inspection process. The plane was at flight #130 when I sold it four years ago...I understand the airframe is still flying today.
Access the stab pivot shaft with 3" x 4" square, saving the top skin to replace once you secure the shaft. also, access the Bearings through the Fuse Fairings underneath, cut carefully with a Dremell diamond cutting wheel, creating a hatch, which you can re-glue with Hysol once you reinforce what needs to be done. The main goal I had was to build a box that would create a solid anchor and transfer energy too.
NEVER assume FEJ stuff is ok out of the box. Bob Klenke is right on!
Rex
Once flight ready, took the plane through a very thorough AMA Inspection process. The plane was at flight #130 when I sold it four years ago...I understand the airframe is still flying today.
Access the stab pivot shaft with 3" x 4" square, saving the top skin to replace once you secure the shaft. also, access the Bearings through the Fuse Fairings underneath, cut carefully with a Dremell diamond cutting wheel, creating a hatch, which you can re-glue with Hysol once you reinforce what needs to be done. The main goal I had was to build a box that would create a solid anchor and transfer energy too.
NEVER assume FEJ stuff is ok out of the box. Bob Klenke is right on!
Rex
Last edited by rbxbear44; 03-09-2015 at 09:49 AM.
03-09-2015, 10:26 AM
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I'm just curious, does anybody have the new FE Large Hawk version, which has the new material with fiber glass and wood formers?
Last edited by osvaldopv; 03-09-2015 at 10:52 AM.
03-09-2015, 01:34 PM
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[QUOTE=rbxbear44;11998917]I think that is very wise. I had one of the first ten 1/5 F-15's and opened up the stabs, re-boxed the stab pivot with AC Ply and CF cloth, Hysol. Also, re-established connection and increased load disbursement on the formers that held the servos in place AND the Stab Pivot Bearing, making a stronger connection with the rear Fuse former. Last thing I did was run a X pattern of 5 oz. CF cloth where the Vertical Fin/rudder structure was to give greater strength there...since that is typically a weak spot on the F-16 airframes in general. That Vertical Fin is a tall "weather vane" and will take some load too.
Once flight ready, took the plane through a very thorough AMA Inspection process. The plane was at flight #130 when I sold it four years ago...I understand the airframe is still flying today.
Access the stab pivot shaft with 3" x 4" square, saving the top skin to replace once you secure the shaft. also, access the Bearings through the Fuse Fairings underneath, cut carefully with a Dremell diamond cutting wheel, creating a hatch, which you can re-glue with Hysol once you reinforce what needs to be done. The main goal I had was to build a box that would create a solid anchor and transfer energy too.
NEVER assume FEJ stuff is ok out of the box. Bob Klenke is right on!
Rex[/QUOTE. Hey Rex. I think that's the one I have now? Do you know for sure? This was the one that Lawrence had at KY and busted out the nose gear. It's got the Matrix. Thanks Scott.
Once flight ready, took the plane through a very thorough AMA Inspection process. The plane was at flight #130 when I sold it four years ago...I understand the airframe is still flying today.
Access the stab pivot shaft with 3" x 4" square, saving the top skin to replace once you secure the shaft. also, access the Bearings through the Fuse Fairings underneath, cut carefully with a Dremell diamond cutting wheel, creating a hatch, which you can re-glue with Hysol once you reinforce what needs to be done. The main goal I had was to build a box that would create a solid anchor and transfer energy too.
NEVER assume FEJ stuff is ok out of the box. Bob Klenke is right on!
Rex[/QUOTE. Hey Rex. I think that's the one I have now? Do you know for sure? This was the one that Lawrence had at KY and busted out the nose gear. It's got the Matrix. Thanks Scott.
03-09-2015, 03:37 PM
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Well, opened up one of the stabs. Glue is touching one side, but not the other, small surface area for the attachment. Should be pretty easy to reinforce the area. Suggestions?
03-09-2015, 03:48 PM
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good job pulling that open. But oh man. They drilled right through the rod at the root... sigh That compromises the load bearing capacity of that rod (i.e cross sectional area is greatly diminished in that section right there at the root). I would replace the entire rod.
03-09-2015, 04:13 PM
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The rod is not drilled as close to the root as the pics make it seem. The rod is 10mm steel and the bolts are 2.6 mm bolts, so I don't think that is going to be a terribly weak point, although steel rod is cheap from McMaster-Carr. The small surface area of the attachment point to the skins is definitely the main problem! Looking up along the main front spar toward the tip, it is actually glued to both skins, but not the part showing in the picture back to the root.