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FEJ 1/6 F-16 NON- Honeycomb. Any issues?

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FEJ 1/6 F-16 NON- Honeycomb. Any issues?

Old 03-09-2015, 04:19 PM
  #26  
rbxbear44
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Scott, the one I was talking about had the Alaska Camo Scheme, it was a Gen 1. Yours is a Gen 2 I bought that one after selling this one. It was much lighter but pre-HC if I recall.

Rex
Old 03-09-2015, 04:23 PM
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dbsonic
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I'll give you that the direction they drilled leaves the extreme fiber material intact which helps retain some of the area moment of inertia properties but it will have nowhere near the AMOI of a full section. But why did they risk doing that? It's because they have no idea of the most basic structural engineering concepts that a first year engineering student picks up with one course in strengths (young's modulus, stress strain etc). one anti-rotation pin is sufficient at the end of the rod, well mounted, like the way Skymaster does it. I agree what you point out with the 'mount' is also bad. Check that wing also. I suspect you will see something similar.

Last edited by dbsonic; 03-09-2015 at 04:31 PM.
Old 03-09-2015, 04:31 PM
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JackL
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Opened the other stab up a bit more than the first. The skin was attached to the main spar much better, but the other issues are the same, such as the rib not glued to both skins. Also, notice the corrosion on the bolts.
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Old 03-09-2015, 04:31 PM
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never-enuff
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Originally Posted by rbxbear44
Scott, the one I was talking about had the Alaska Camo Scheme, it was a Gen 1. Yours is a Gen 2 I bought that one after selling this one. It was much lighter but pre-HC if I recall.

Rex
Yes it is and is ready to maiden again after almost starting over.
Old 03-09-2015, 04:48 PM
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rhklenke
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Originally Posted by JackL


Opened the other stab up a bit more than the first. The skin was attached to the main spar much better, but the other issues are the same, such as the rib not glued to both skins. Also, notice the corrosion on the bolts.
Those pins (bolts) should not be into plywood spars that run right next to the pivot rod. They should be into hardwood *blocks* that spread the load much further out longitudinally into the stab. With that setup, any *hint* of flutter will twist that structure right out of the stab...

Bob
Old 03-09-2015, 04:52 PM
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BobbyMcGee
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Originally Posted by JackL


Opened the other stab up a bit more than the first. The skin was attached to the main spar much better, but the other issues are the same, such as the rib not glued to both skins. Also, notice the corrosion on the bolts.
For me, those rods don't go far enough into the stab itself. And is all that untouched, beaded white epoxy glue I see on the spars the glue that was actually supposed to glue the spars to the skin?
Old 03-09-2015, 04:54 PM
  #32  
JackL
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Bob, what I was planning to do is exactly what you are saying. Replace the bolts with 2.6mm tool steel rod. Make hardwood blocks that take up the triangular shaped area in front, tying the root rib into the outer rib and front spar. Another hardwood block extending a few inches from the back of the pivot rod, tying the root rib to the outer rib.
Old 03-09-2015, 05:06 PM
  #33  
JackL
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Originally Posted by BobbyMcGee
For me, those rods don't go far enough into the stab itself. And is all that untouched, beaded white epoxy glue I see on the spars the glue that was actually supposed to glue the spars to the skin?
The pivot rod extends three inches into the stab. I believe that should be enough once hardwood blocks are installed to give more surface area, although I could always just replace the 10mm pivot rod with longer stock.
Yes, the beaded glue was supposed to glue the spars to the skin. Interestingly, the skins and spars are glued nicely outboard of the pivot assembly. The crucial area around the pivot assembly is not glued well at all, as the photos show.
Old 03-09-2015, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by rbxbear44
Scott, the one I was talking about had the Alaska Camo Scheme, it was a Gen 1. Yours is a Gen 2 I bought that one after selling this one. It was much lighter but pre-HC if I recall.

Rex
Hey Rex good to see you post again!
Old 03-09-2015, 05:15 PM
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JackL
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I'm not as worried about the wing. Between the cutouts for the servo boxes and holes in the root rib, I was able to see how the anti-rotation pins and main spar were glued. There must have been a more experienced 3rd grader working on the wing, because the glue job is much better.
Old 03-10-2015, 06:16 AM
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After all these years (20+?), Yellow Aircraft F-16 still has the most simple elevator torque rod solution. Pretty incredible.

David
Old 03-10-2015, 06:38 AM
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Originally Posted by JackL
Bob, what I was planning to do is exactly what you are saying. Replace the bolts with 2.6mm tool steel rod. Make hardwood blocks that take up the triangular shaped area in front, tying the root rib into the outer rib and front spar. Another hardwood block extending a few inches from the back of the pivot rod, tying the root rib to the outer rib.
That sounds perfect, please post some pictures of your work before you close them.
Old 03-10-2015, 08:21 AM
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rhklenke
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Originally Posted by JackL
Bob, what I was planning to do is exactly what you are saying. Replace the bolts with 2.6mm tool steel rod. Make hardwood blocks that take up the triangular shaped area in front, tying the root rib into the outer rib and front spar. Another hardwood block extending a few inches from the back of the pivot rod, tying the root rib to the outer rib.
I think if you do that, you should be good.

Bob
Old 03-10-2015, 09:26 AM
  #39  
rbxbear44
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FB, I look in from time to time...just flying now, not building for anyone anymore, only going to the smaller jet meets. Keeping it simple and off the "RCU ledges".

Rex
Old 03-10-2015, 09:46 AM
  #40  
FalconWings
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Since you've already opened it up, I would fill all that pocket with epoxy, so you get an improved load distribution along the lateral spars and not just at the pins.Then the blocks will handle all torsional load.
Old 03-10-2015, 12:02 PM
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JackL
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Originally Posted by FalconWings
Since you've already opened it up, I would fill all that pocket with epoxy, so you get an improved load distribution along the lateral spars and not just at the pins.Then the blocks will handle all torsional load.
I was planning on roughing up the pivot rod for better adhesion and filling that area with hysol or west systems epoxy and fibers.

Last edited by JackL; 03-10-2015 at 04:02 PM.
Old 03-14-2015, 08:40 AM
  #42  
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Wow.

That would just cause me too much anxiety to fly. What you DO see gives great pause about what you CAN'T see. Those guys just have no clue about how to build an airplane.
Old 03-14-2015, 11:34 AM
  #43  
JackL
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Yeah, it is amazing what you find in some of these arfs. Luckily, the structure in the wings is easier to look at and it looks good. The fuselage is good, just needs some beefing up here and there. I opened up the fuse and looked at the stab mounts. They were bolted to some pretty solid bulkheads, but I used Hysol and boxed them in better, just to make sure. The stabs are really the only components that you can't get a good look at, so I went ahead and opened them up. I used tool steel pins and aircraft ply to beef up the attachments. Very strong now.

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