Rookie Question: Nose Gear Steering Cable
03-15-2015, 12:49 PM
#1
Rookie Question: Nose Gear Steering Cable
Hi Guys, I've done the best I can but it is not working for me. I have retied/cut the cable and replaced it three times now and I get the same results. As I tie the braided cable through the eyelets on the Sierra nose gear and then through the coupler to secure the loop, all is well on both the gear and servo ends. But when I push on the gear to simulate retraction, the cable in the eyelets will not return to the spot where I initially secured it. When I lower the gear, I have to push on the cable at the eyelet to get it to set back into its initial place. If I do not reset the cable positioning, the cable is shorted on one side causing the wheel to be turned to the shorted side. Would hate to land with the nose wheel in that position. Should I just cut to the chase and use Kevlar string or should I drill out and enlarge the holes in the steering arm on the nose gear to allow the braided cable to move about better and settle pointing toward the servo and not to the side or top of the fuse? Need your wisdom and advice guys. Hope I explained my problem clearly. Many thanks for any help. Chic
03-15-2015, 01:53 PM
#2
Chic,
I think I know what you are saying - the cable kind of "flips" up (or down) 90 degrees to where it is when the gear is down, and it won't flip back when the gear drops. Is that right?
This is caused by the cable being tight and friction on the square edges of the hole makes the cable bind and not want to flip back.
I would get a small rat-tail file and round those corners on the inside of the hole in the gear arm off a bit and see if that helps the cable flip back. If the hole in the arm is just too small to accommodate the radius of the cable, you may have to open it up a bit as you suggested.
Personally, I don't like kevlar thread for nose steering - it breaks too often, but sometimes its the only thing that will work.
Bob
I think I know what you are saying - the cable kind of "flips" up (or down) 90 degrees to where it is when the gear is down, and it won't flip back when the gear drops. Is that right?
This is caused by the cable being tight and friction on the square edges of the hole makes the cable bind and not want to flip back.
I would get a small rat-tail file and round those corners on the inside of the hole in the gear arm off a bit and see if that helps the cable flip back. If the hole in the arm is just too small to accommodate the radius of the cable, you may have to open it up a bit as you suggested.
Personally, I don't like kevlar thread for nose steering - it breaks too often, but sometimes its the only thing that will work.
Bob
03-15-2015, 02:00 PM
#3
My Feedback: (1)
I despise pull-pull steering because of the inherent problems like this one, but what I have seen a lot of guys do is attach rubber bands or light springs to the cables between the retract and the servo. This keeps the loops (or clevises, if that is what they attach to) taught in the holes of the steering arm, and prevents them from rotating.
03-15-2015, 03:45 PM
#5
Status Report: The two of you may pick up your A&P Certificate. Putting a bevel on the steering arm hole and synching up the cable worked so very well. I crossed the cables to get the same effect as the rubber bands pulling on them and together, it all worked great. So many thanks guys. Chic
03-16-2015, 07:42 AM
#8
Richard
03-22-2015, 04:23 AM
#11
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: SAO JOSE DO RIO PRETO-SP, BRAZIL
Posts: 791
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Include an gyro on nose gear, and, you can make an easy job on run to take off
Enrique Broens make an setup on our Rookie, and, after that, our rookie change 100%!!!
easy to take off, landing very, very, short, and, maneuvers absolutely amazing.
jose
Enrique Broens make an setup on our Rookie, and, after that, our rookie change 100%!!!
easy to take off, landing very, very, short, and, maneuvers absolutely amazing.
jose
03-22-2015, 05:15 AM
#13
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Curitiba, Parana, BRAZIL
Posts: 4,289
Likes: 0
Received 14 Likes
on
11 Posts
Some pictures of the installation with the gear in the up and down postion would help a lot to us to give suggestions. Usually keeping the cables straight from the servo to the steering arm is the best and simplest way to do it, using steel wire/coils/zip ties or even rubber bands to keep the loose wiring out of trouble.
Jose is very kind! He is having a lot of fun with the rookie in Sao Jose do Rio Preto Imglad the information was useful to him. I will post later the pictures in the visting SJRP thread,
Jose is very kind! He is having a lot of fun with the rookie in Sao Jose do Rio Preto Imglad the information was useful to him. I will post later the pictures in the visting SJRP thread,
03-22-2015, 05:28 AM
#14
My Feedback: (48)
Put a dab of silicone sealant or RTV where the cable attaches to the steering tiller. Do this with the gear down. Now when the gear is retracted the cable always maintains its orientation relative to the holes in the tiller. The silicone is flexible enough that it doesn't interfere with steering. I do this on all mine and it solves the problem along with rubber bands or a cable tie as shown above.
03-22-2015, 05:29 AM
#15
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: SAO JOSE DO RIO PRETO-SP, BRAZIL
Posts: 791
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Enrique
your info about setup of jets, are an amazing upgrade on our flights, and, improves the attitude of airplane!!����
waiting for you on 14 bis asap
jose
your info about setup of jets, are an amazing upgrade on our flights, and, improves the attitude of airplane!!����
waiting for you on 14 bis asap
jose
03-22-2015, 09:17 AM
#18
Wow, what really slick ideas. Will again, add them to my future needs goodie bag. Flexibility of the springs is really clever. Hummm let me see what else I can say to get ideas from ya. Smile. Thanks, keep the ideas coming - on any topic. Chic
03-25-2015, 02:13 AM
#19
Senior Member
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: houston, TX
Posts: 238
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Hi all
I use 2 small 3/8 diameter key rings and fuel tubing for nitro planes instead of rubber bands to keep my cables pulled to the side of the fuselage when the gear is up! The cable runs thru the key rings. So far have never had a problem. 178 flights on a Ultra Lightning
I use 2 small 3/8 diameter key rings and fuel tubing for nitro planes instead of rubber bands to keep my cables pulled to the side of the fuselage when the gear is up! The cable runs thru the key rings. So far have never had a problem. 178 flights on a Ultra Lightning
03-25-2015, 06:52 AM
#21
Some more ideas that work pretty good.
1. Once setup, use Scotch Tape looped around the tightened cables to keep them separated. This will prevent them looping and potentially not returning to their original position when the gear is retracted/extended.
2. I use Berkley steel leader line and Berkley couplings for cables, they are black nylon covered and very thin. You can buy it at the fishing goodies section at any Walmart.
3. I don't loop around the coupling anymore, it was just too difficult. I use the smallest radius available on my crimping tool, and allow about 1" of cable to extend past the coupling. I then put heat shrink tubing between the main line and the excess cable.Super strong, super neat.
Takes me about 10 minutes to do steering setup on my F-16s. I typically do the servo ends first, with the clevis as lose as possible (allows tightening after initial rigging). Just make sure to tighten those clevis jam nuts after you are finished.
I can post some pics tonight if interested.
David
1. Once setup, use Scotch Tape looped around the tightened cables to keep them separated. This will prevent them looping and potentially not returning to their original position when the gear is retracted/extended.
2. I use Berkley steel leader line and Berkley couplings for cables, they are black nylon covered and very thin. You can buy it at the fishing goodies section at any Walmart.
3. I don't loop around the coupling anymore, it was just too difficult. I use the smallest radius available on my crimping tool, and allow about 1" of cable to extend past the coupling. I then put heat shrink tubing between the main line and the excess cable.Super strong, super neat.
Takes me about 10 minutes to do steering setup on my F-16s. I typically do the servo ends first, with the clevis as lose as possible (allows tightening after initial rigging). Just make sure to tighten those clevis jam nuts after you are finished.
I can post some pics tonight if interested.
David
03-25-2015, 06:53 AM
#22
Hey guys, still following this thread. How far do you run your nylon tubing? With regards to the tiller, by creating a slight bevel on the top and bottom of the tiller and then cinching up like Matt stated, the cable is allowed to move but still stay in place. Again, thanks guys. Chic