Sebart Mini Avanti w/ K45 build thread
#201
My Feedback: (1)
Hi Stan,
Sorry for the late response but it takes about 24 hours for RCU to send out a "instant email notification" .
Anyway, my arms barely stick out as well. I just checked my throws and I'm not getting close to the high rate throws. I'm getting the mid rate which is about 3/4" and the suggested high rate is an 1" on the other mini Avanti thread on that other site. Sorry for the confusion.
I just checked some old Dubro long arms I had laying around (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXD670&P=ML) and the two long ones that come in that set have the predrilled holes far enough out that you can drill your own hole further in and still be much longer than the stock arms that come with the 5085. I'm sure there are other options out there.
Sorry for the late response but it takes about 24 hours for RCU to send out a "instant email notification" .
Anyway, my arms barely stick out as well. I just checked my throws and I'm not getting close to the high rate throws. I'm getting the mid rate which is about 3/4" and the suggested high rate is an 1" on the other mini Avanti thread on that other site. Sorry for the confusion.
I just checked some old Dubro long arms I had laying around (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXD670&P=ML) and the two long ones that come in that set have the predrilled holes far enough out that you can drill your own hole further in and still be much longer than the stock arms that come with the 5085. I'm sure there are other options out there.
No problem. The picture in the manual shows the servo arms much further out then what we were getting with the arms that come with the servo. That threw me off.
I just did what you did and used the servo arms that came with the servo. It works okay but I have not set the throws yet. I think the mid rate will be fine for my style of flying.
I have found that the 5085 will not work space wise in the rudder hole. So I am doing what DrScoles did with his and glue it to a 1/8 plywood plate. I am undecided as to attach the plywood plate by using either Velcro or glue to the inside of the fin. Velcro sounds better if I have to remove the servo, but how well will it hold without coming loose?
If this fly's as well as my big one I will be a very happy camper.
Regards,
Stan
#206
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I received my pipe from grumania today, and looking at it, the bellmouth is large...very large.
There is no way the bellmouth could go behind the wood former behind the turbine.
Is there a magic trick to get it in there and screw it to the tube in-place?
This is how Grumania show it installed :
http://www.grumania.com/xtcommerce/i...ages/699_2.jpg
There is no way the bellmouth could go behind the wood former behind the turbine.
Is there a magic trick to get it in there and screw it to the tube in-place?
This is how Grumania show it installed :
http://www.grumania.com/xtcommerce/i...ages/699_2.jpg
#207
You have to take the bell mouth off, slide in the pipe, slide in the bell mouth, slide them over each other, and now the hardest part, install the screws again.
I made a small hole in the bottom of the fuselage where I can put the screwdriver in ans use nuts for fastening, this way you can install the pipe.
Also will made some brackets which will hold the pipe on the former.
Grt,
Berto.
I made a small hole in the bottom of the fuselage where I can put the screwdriver in ans use nuts for fastening, this way you can install the pipe.
Also will made some brackets which will hold the pipe on the former.
Grt,
Berto.
#208
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Ok, i can understand the hole in the bottom. In fact that's the only way I could've think of...
Thanks alot for confirmation.
But what about the brackets?
Do you have a picture? Would help alot, and be greatly appreciated...
Thanks in advance...
Marc
Thanks alot for confirmation.
But what about the brackets?
Do you have a picture? Would help alot, and be greatly appreciated...
Thanks in advance...
Marc
#211
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: St. Catharines,
ON, CANADA
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How to mount the pipe.
1. Outside of the airframe assemble and the bell and pipe. Drill 3 holes thru the bell and pipe at 120 degrees from each other.
2. Bolt the bellmouth to the pipe with the bolts on the inside and nuts on the outside of the pipe.
3. JB weld the nuts to the pipe. Do not get any glue on the threads. Let JB weld dry.
4. Disassemble the bell and pipe.
5. Glue a hardwood block to the bottom of the fuse so that the centre of the bell is located to the engine bearers. I don't remember the measurement I used.
6. Install the pipe and push back.
7. Install the bell mouth behind the former.
8. Drill a hole to mount the bell to the hardwood block with a screw.
9. Push the pipe forward and align the holes. Bolt the bell to the pipe using a drive bit twisting between your fingers.
1. Outside of the airframe assemble and the bell and pipe. Drill 3 holes thru the bell and pipe at 120 degrees from each other.
2. Bolt the bellmouth to the pipe with the bolts on the inside and nuts on the outside of the pipe.
3. JB weld the nuts to the pipe. Do not get any glue on the threads. Let JB weld dry.
4. Disassemble the bell and pipe.
5. Glue a hardwood block to the bottom of the fuse so that the centre of the bell is located to the engine bearers. I don't remember the measurement I used.
6. Install the pipe and push back.
7. Install the bell mouth behind the former.
8. Drill a hole to mount the bell to the hardwood block with a screw.
9. Push the pipe forward and align the holes. Bolt the bell to the pipe using a drive bit twisting between your fingers.
#212
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Thanks alot Jeremy!
You make it look easy with your 9 steps, but i guess it's not that easy ;-)
JD Weld nut on the outside, allowing bolt on the inside is genius!
Ok, got to find some JB Weld tommorow...
Thanks again
You make it look easy with your 9 steps, but i guess it's not that easy ;-)
JD Weld nut on the outside, allowing bolt on the inside is genius!
Ok, got to find some JB Weld tommorow...
Thanks again
#213
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (18)
In order to get my turbine a little farther forward, I had to cut the bell mouth. This also necessitated a slightly longer pipe from grumania. I ordered the first one and found it too short. Which worked out great because it was the perfect fit for my JHH A-7 :-) If you look at this pic, you can see a metal strap going back on top of the turbine, the one with no bolt in it right now… LOL. I have one screw going into block in the fuse, throughout he bottom of the bell mouth, and one through the top of this strap. The sides of the bell mouth are tight up against the back of the rails, it doesn't move. Jeremy's ideas are good as well. I forgot how I got the bell mouth on the pipe, I think I used small sheet metal screws so I wouldn't need a bolt on the back side. I do remember it being a pain in the ass…. ;-)
These straps come in the grumania pipe kit.
Love flying this plane, actually like it better than the mid size Avanti. Can't wait for our weather to start clearing up!
These straps come in the grumania pipe kit.
Love flying this plane, actually like it better than the mid size Avanti. Can't wait for our weather to start clearing up!
#217
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While looking for a nice diagram about fuel system plumbing, I found this page:
http://www.ultimate-jets.net/blogs/f...considerations
I tough it would surely be of interest for some :-)
Lengthy, but pretty much complete I think!
http://www.ultimate-jets.net/blogs/f...considerations
I tough it would surely be of interest for some :-)
Lengthy, but pretty much complete I think!
#218
Somewhat worser phone picture :-/
I slightly enlarged the holes in the pipe and the bell mouth so the M3 screws will slide in easy.
I made a small hole in the bottom for the hex key.
Now I slide in the pipe and the bell mouth and slide them together.
With some fiddling I install the screws which will go easily in the pipe/bell mouth and place a M3 lock nut, that 3 times.
Now I can hold the nut and screw the the hex bolt with the hex key through the hole.
When fastened I install the 2 screws of the holders to the airframe bracket.
And ready.
Hope you like it so far Edwin
Grt,
Berto.
I slightly enlarged the holes in the pipe and the bell mouth so the M3 screws will slide in easy.
I made a small hole in the bottom for the hex key.
Now I slide in the pipe and the bell mouth and slide them together.
With some fiddling I install the screws which will go easily in the pipe/bell mouth and place a M3 lock nut, that 3 times.
Now I can hold the nut and screw the the hex bolt with the hex key through the hole.
When fastened I install the 2 screws of the holders to the airframe bracket.
And ready.
Hope you like it so far Edwin
Grt,
Berto.
#220
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Excellent RemoteJets, thanks for all the explanation and pictures :-)
I think I have enough info to start turbine and pipe installation.
Last question (i think...), about wing fastening, i'll have to remove wings for transportation, every times.
Do you all think that the screw thread is going to last? Maybe someone has a better way?
I think I have enough info to start turbine and pipe installation.
Last question (i think...), about wing fastening, i'll have to remove wings for transportation, every times.
Do you all think that the screw thread is going to last? Maybe someone has a better way?
#221
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Aylesbury, UNITED KINGDOM
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Excellent RemoteJets, thanks for all the explanation and pictures :-)
I think I have enough info to start turbine and pipe installation.
Last question (i think...), about wing fastening, i'll have to remove wings for transportation, every times.
Do you all think that the screw thread is going to last? Maybe someone has a better way?
I think I have enough info to start turbine and pipe installation.
Last question (i think...), about wing fastening, i'll have to remove wings for transportation, every times.
Do you all think that the screw thread is going to last? Maybe someone has a better way?
I used an M3 T nut in the wing. 10mm M3 Cap head bolt
#224
My Feedback: (2)
Hi Guys,
Just got a K45 and waiting for the plane to arrive.
Is the stock hardware good enough or do I need to "upgrade"? I'll be ordering the spectrum 4030 servos.
Also if using 2s A123 (6.6VDC nominal) do I need a regulator for the electric retracts, gear door servo and the steering servo?
Thanks
Just got a K45 and waiting for the plane to arrive.
Is the stock hardware good enough or do I need to "upgrade"? I'll be ordering the spectrum 4030 servos.
Also if using 2s A123 (6.6VDC nominal) do I need a regulator for the electric retracts, gear door servo and the steering servo?
Thanks