Tip: How to remove Epoxy or CA fingerprint marks from your painted model
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Tip: How to remove Epoxy or CA fingerprint marks from your painted model
Soak some cotton or shop towel in water and place it over the problem area.
Keep it wet for a few hours.
That's it .. !!
Jack
Keep it wet for a few hours.
That's it .. !!
Jack
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Water will not do a good job dissolving CA if it is more than a mere fingerprint.
Debonder is quite inefficient and stains.
For larger amounts of CA the only method is to use "Nitromethane" .
With an artist brush put the nitro over the CA spot. Wait like a couple of minutes and remove "without spreading".
Repeat as necessary .... it will come out completely. It wont attack most paints ... try first though.
During a contest, accidentally I dropped a bottle of CA over my flying glasses. Since there was not pure nitro available, I dipped the lens in a glass full of 30% nitro glow fuel ..... after a few hours the lens was clean as new !!!!!
Jack
Debonder is quite inefficient and stains.
For larger amounts of CA the only method is to use "Nitromethane" .
With an artist brush put the nitro over the CA spot. Wait like a couple of minutes and remove "without spreading".
Repeat as necessary .... it will come out completely. It wont attack most paints ... try first though.
During a contest, accidentally I dropped a bottle of CA over my flying glasses. Since there was not pure nitro available, I dipped the lens in a glass full of 30% nitro glow fuel ..... after a few hours the lens was clean as new !!!!!
Jack
Last edited by Jack Diaz; 06-15-2015 at 05:47 AM.
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While only slightly related but in the name of keeping helpful stuff in one place, I've recently discovered that WD40 pretty much instantly dissolves plastidip!
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[QUOTE=Jack Diaz;12055334]Water will not do a good job dissolving CA if it is more than a mere fingerprint.
Debonder is quite inefficient and stains.
For larger amounts of CA the only method is to use "Nitromethane" .
With an artist brush put the nitro over the CA spot. Wait like a couple of minutes and remove "without spreading".
Repeat as necessary .... it will come out completely. It wont attack most paints ... try first though.
During a contest, accidentally I dropped a bottle of CA over my flying glasses. Since there was not pure nitro available, I dipped the lens in a glass full of 30% nitro glow fuel ..... after a few hours the lens was clean as new !!!!!
Jack[/QUOTE
Didn't know that. Thanks for the tip.
Debonder is quite inefficient and stains.
For larger amounts of CA the only method is to use "Nitromethane" .
With an artist brush put the nitro over the CA spot. Wait like a couple of minutes and remove "without spreading".
Repeat as necessary .... it will come out completely. It wont attack most paints ... try first though.
During a contest, accidentally I dropped a bottle of CA over my flying glasses. Since there was not pure nitro available, I dipped the lens in a glass full of 30% nitro glow fuel ..... after a few hours the lens was clean as new !!!!!
Jack[/QUOTE
Didn't know that. Thanks for the tip.
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Just a word of caution... nitromethane is nasty and explodes easily.
There was a old incident decades ago about a guy that used a small amount of nitro in a seringe to start up a u-control engine.. the seringe exploded while doing this and the guy lost its hand.
There was a old incident decades ago about a guy that used a small amount of nitro in a seringe to start up a u-control engine.. the seringe exploded while doing this and the guy lost its hand.
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Wow, sorry to hear that.. I take it that it doesn't like being compressed even by just a syringe(or reason it works so well in an engine to boost performance). Thanks for that tip.
Last edited by dbsonic; 06-15-2015 at 12:43 PM.
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NOPE! Simply not true. Just an urban legend. Nitro methane burns very slowly. So slowly that in model fuel that has more than 40% nitro, you have add something to make it light off. Many high nitro mixes use propylene oxide to improve ignition....now there's some nasty stuff! I used to mix fuels while working for a manufacturer way back in the day. At first, I was afraid of nitro methane until my boss poured about a quart of it on the parking lot and proceeded to TRY to light it!! I didn't know whether to hit the ground or run! NOTHING HAPPENED! When it finally lit after evaporating for some time, it was a mellow blue flame. Next, we tried the propylene.....oh man! A POOF and it was gone before the flame got near the small puddle on the ground.......Fun times for sure!
There is nothing like the smell of 65% nitro / 10% propylene fuel!
If you don't believe me, just watch a top fuel dragster on the starting line. PURE unburnt nitro is pouring out of the exhaust at idle and no explosion until you compress it a lot along with just the right amount of air and a hot spark. It would be impossible to get enough compression/air/ ignition with a syringe. Now if the guy was using diethyl ether, (starting fluid) now that is a different story!
It it is my understanding that debonder IS nitro methane or nitro ethane.
Tailwinds,
John
Last edited by cactusflyer; 06-15-2015 at 04:26 PM.
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It's interesting nonetheless that workers are recommended not to stack 55 gallon drums of nitromethane(according to Ullmans book of chemicals) due to the adiabatic compression hazard. Fortunately none of us probably need that much CA solvent. : )
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Nope, this is not urban legend.
The official classification of this material is code 4 wich means " Readily capable of detonation or explosive decomposition at normal temperatures and pressures " you can check this info at the U.S. National fire protection association. (NFPA) Also to make things worse nitromethane has a very low flash point.
Take care!.
http://www.mtpulaskiil.com/mtpulaski...Blast_1958.htm
http://cameochemicals.noaa.gov/chemical/1222
The official classification of this material is code 4 wich means " Readily capable of detonation or explosive decomposition at normal temperatures and pressures " you can check this info at the U.S. National fire protection association. (NFPA) Also to make things worse nitromethane has a very low flash point.
Take care!.
http://www.mtpulaskiil.com/mtpulaski...Blast_1958.htm
http://cameochemicals.noaa.gov/chemical/1222
Last edited by erbroens; 06-15-2015 at 07:15 PM.
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And some more safety info on nitromethane...
http://msdssearch.dow.com/PublishedL...romPage=GetDoc
"Nitromethane can be handled safely as long as its hazardous properties are understood and unsafe conditions are avoided during its use.2 Nitromethane can detonate and cause serious harm to people and property under certain conditions. Nitromethane can detonate more easily when contaminated by acids, bases, amines or other “sensitizing” chemicals, or when handled at both increased pressure AND elevated temperatures."
http://msdssearch.dow.com/PublishedL...romPage=GetDoc
"Nitromethane can be handled safely as long as its hazardous properties are understood and unsafe conditions are avoided during its use.2 Nitromethane can detonate and cause serious harm to people and property under certain conditions. Nitromethane can detonate more easily when contaminated by acids, bases, amines or other “sensitizing” chemicals, or when handled at both increased pressure AND elevated temperatures."
Last edited by erbroens; 06-15-2015 at 07:18 PM.
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I guess that I'm just plain lucky!
Flash point is not a big deal. Nitro has a flash point of 95 degrees F......and before you jump on the keyboard........consider this.....Acetone has a flash point of -4 degrees F!!!! The autoignition temp is what will get you.....if you get nitro to 782 F.
The flash point refers to the temp at which the material will vaporizes into a combustible state with oxygen (air).
Anyway, it works great for removing CA.
John
Flash point is not a big deal. Nitro has a flash point of 95 degrees F......and before you jump on the keyboard........consider this.....Acetone has a flash point of -4 degrees F!!!! The autoignition temp is what will get you.....if you get nitro to 782 F.
The flash point refers to the temp at which the material will vaporizes into a combustible state with oxygen (air).
Anyway, it works great for removing CA.
John
Last edited by cactusflyer; 06-15-2015 at 09:02 PM.
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Forgive my ignorance, I never tried hitting flammable liquids with a hammer, but what did you expect to happen? And what flammable liquids would ignite when hit with a hammer (assuming no spark is produced by the metal to metal contact, only percussion without a container)?
By the way, in googling my own answer to this (to no avail), I did come across this wonderfully written book - I particularly loved the last paragraph on page 332 that more than a grain of each 'may produce mischief!' Awesome. What has happened to our beautiful language since those glory days...
By the way, in googling my own answer to this (to no avail), I did come across this wonderfully written book - I particularly loved the last paragraph on page 332 that more than a grain of each 'may produce mischief!' Awesome. What has happened to our beautiful language since those glory days...