Elite Aerosport Rebel Pro Build
#78
FenderBean, would you be so kind to take some measures of the forward and aft sections of the fuselage? max length, max width, max height...
also how hard is it to remove the vertical stab once installed?
Would also be great if you took some time to explain how Mauro designed the fuselage to be split/assembled at the field
Trying to figure out whether I can stuff this monster in my car...
Thanks!
also how hard is it to remove the vertical stab once installed?
Would also be great if you took some time to explain how Mauro designed the fuselage to be split/assembled at the field
Trying to figure out whether I can stuff this monster in my car...
Thanks!
#80
Thread Starter
Randy, just a 3mm threaded rod is all that comes with the kit. The mains will need to have two small holes drilled and tapped, then I will use a 3mm screw/nut to hold the gear door at the height I need. They dont have pre drilled holes for a door.
The the tail section field removable works the same way skymaster does their wing stores, a hole is cut put the head of the bolt in then a thin channel is cut for the bolt to slide down in and then you have a a couple installed plates that locks the tail section on the top and bottom. I will go over these in my next video to help clear up things for people.
Matt I will put a nut on the metal clevises, just didnt do that yet. I think thats what your referring to.
The the tail section field removable works the same way skymaster does their wing stores, a hole is cut put the head of the bolt in then a thin channel is cut for the bolt to slide down in and then you have a a couple installed plates that locks the tail section on the top and bottom. I will go over these in my next video to help clear up things for people.
Matt I will put a nut on the metal clevises, just didnt do that yet. I think thats what your referring to.
#81
Thread Starter
The nose gear mounts are glued in and almost dry, as well as the forward tank mount. I am down to the pipe mount in the tail, thats its for gluing stuff. The bad thing is I don't have enough hysol to finish gluing the front tank mount and the pipe mount, I will go ahead and mount the nose gear and cut the door until I get more glue. I havent decided if im using air or a servo for the nose door, im leaning to a servo like I did on the avanti. I have considered doing two min doors, one on each side of the gear bay.
Hopefully the glue shows u tomorrow but tomorrow is a no build day, Its the wifes Birthday so its her day.
two videos are uploading and I will try to make a third before tomorrow on the above questions.
Hopefully the glue shows u tomorrow but tomorrow is a no build day, Its the wifes Birthday so its her day.
two videos are uploading and I will try to make a third before tomorrow on the above questions.
#85
Thread Starter
Well then mine didnt get pre drilled, because there is one hole on the flat side of the strut and it has a 6mm screw in to hold the top part of the spring.
Okay sorry if im confused, it guess when you buy a shockwave they do this for you since the shockwave has a door on the main like im doing to this one. Simple thing to do, I just bought a drill press so no worries. I just tried it out, I cut the tank fitting barbs of and drilled it to fit my hi-flow brass fitting (MOD ALERT!!) recommend by Elite to do this if your running anything in the 200 range.
Okay sorry if im confused, it guess when you buy a shockwave they do this for you since the shockwave has a door on the main like im doing to this one. Simple thing to do, I just bought a drill press so no worries. I just tried it out, I cut the tank fitting barbs of and drilled it to fit my hi-flow brass fitting (MOD ALERT!!) recommend by Elite to do this if your running anything in the 200 range.
Last edited by FenderBean; 11-13-2015 at 07:26 PM.
#92
Thread Starter
Managed to get some stuff done today while I waited on the mail man. I started to work on the top hatch latch system and started on the tank. I added the cross beam for the hatch and the slide in lock support (MOD ALERT) I added a small ply block to the locks to help support them. I glued the top front tank support on to the tank as well as the new high flow fitting I mounted to the tank cap. Currently I am waiting on glues to dry so I can continue on, I don't have much time left before I head out for a night with my Lady. I have two videos uploading now!
#93
Thread Starter
Okay folk last one for the night, nose gear is in and was super easy to install, after I installed it a question I was ponder was answered. I am going with a single door instead of two small ones, just not big enough for two.
I put the the L brackets on the bell mouth as well, love the rivets!!! I will do this to all future bell mouths!
Video is uploading as well. Cheers cya tomorrow!
I put the the L brackets on the bell mouth as well, love the rivets!!! I will do this to all future bell mouths!
Video is uploading as well. Cheers cya tomorrow!
#94
My Feedback: (7)
Hey Bean,
Make sure you pay attention to orientation when you rivet that bell mouth to the pipe.. Unlike most all other pipes, the Rebel pipe with that angled cut at the rear, your L-bracket's have to be correct in relation to the angle cut on the end of the pipe. Very easy make that mistake...
Danno
Make sure you pay attention to orientation when you rivet that bell mouth to the pipe.. Unlike most all other pipes, the Rebel pipe with that angled cut at the rear, your L-bracket's have to be correct in relation to the angle cut on the end of the pipe. Very easy make that mistake...
Danno
#95
Thread Starter
Hey Bean,
Make sure you pay attention to orientation when you rivet that bell mouth to the pipe.. Unlike most all other pipes, the Rebel pipe with that angled cut at the rear, your L-bracket's have to be correct in relation to the angle cut on the end of the pipe. Very easy make that mistake...
Danno
Make sure you pay attention to orientation when you rivet that bell mouth to the pipe.. Unlike most all other pipes, the Rebel pipe with that angled cut at the rear, your L-bracket's have to be correct in relation to the angle cut on the end of the pipe. Very easy make that mistake...
Danno
#96
Thread Starter
Had a late start due to work on a Sunday but I did manage to finish up the nose gear and cut out the nose door. (MOD ALERT) It turned out pretty good and the offset hinges were easy to deal with once I figured out the method. The hot glue gun is great to tack the hinges down and trial fit. I added a lip around the inside of fuselage to cover the gap around the door. I installed the steering servo as well, used 2.5 mm screws and locknuts to secure it. Since it is such a small control rod I used the 3mm threaded rod supplied with the kit and two dupro HD ball ends. I also installed the hi-flow clunk and in the tank, I had a little face palm moment with my tank so I had to do some repairs. I was planning to add two one inch strips of carbon fiber around the tank anyway. They tank is fiber glass and a little flimsy so this will help.
This leaves the bell mouth mount and the rudder locking pin to install, then I get to fun part! Equipment install and setup!!!
I have three videos uploading as well shows the my first attempt at a gear door. Cheers!
This leaves the bell mouth mount and the rudder locking pin to install, then I get to fun part! Equipment install and setup!!!
I have three videos uploading as well shows the my first attempt at a gear door. Cheers!
Last edited by FenderBean; 11-15-2015 at 07:42 PM.
#97
Thread Starter
I finished up the tank by adding the two vent tubes and wrapping in carbon fiber. I was wondering if I should cut the clunk line and add a brass tube, I see folks do this but the only thin I can think this would help is the clunk line getting stuck in the forward part of the tank. I dont think this will be a problem when the bvm clunk line, I think its suppose to stay flexible in fuel. After the tank I installed the pipe support, I still need to add a support for the front mounts but I need to wait on the hysol to cure. Kinda feeling lazy tonight so I am taking a break till tomorrow, I made a small video showing the work today. Cheers
#98
Hi Kieth.
Thanks for this thread. I dip into RCU every now and then and then, and build threads like yours are the best.. It is great to see models like this close up, and get some appreciation of the techniques and materials used in various models.. Keep posting please..
Regards the BVM flexible tube reversing in the tank.. This does happen!! The cure is as you suggest, using a length of brass tube in the clunk line… I had this happen in a Bobcat tank once.. Flamed out 4 mins into a flight!!!!
Thanks for this thread. I dip into RCU every now and then and then, and build threads like yours are the best.. It is great to see models like this close up, and get some appreciation of the techniques and materials used in various models.. Keep posting please..
Regards the BVM flexible tube reversing in the tank.. This does happen!! The cure is as you suggest, using a length of brass tube in the clunk line… I had this happen in a Bobcat tank once.. Flamed out 4 mins into a flight!!!!
#99
Thread Starter
Roger, thanks for the info and your thoughts. I was pondering the clunk line after the video, I think the tank is large enough to the clunk will be okay. I have had issues like you stated with a long skinny tank. It's popular with the Fuji bottle tanks you see the large 3D planes using. The builds will get better when I get a nice shop with good lighting, but I will keep at it. This has been a fun project, I enjoy building. Jets cost keep me limited to a couple a few years.
#100
My Feedback: (7)
You guy's might want to consider the JMP big heavy clunk. It comes with the Shockwave fuel tank fitting kits that Scott gets from Cook. Dreamworks sells the tank kits but it has all the tank fittings. I called Tom Cook and he will sell just the clunk only. Maybe Todd will start selling the clunk only also.. It's my first choice for the big tubing and heavy iron projects.
http://www.dreamworksrc.com/catalog/...nk-Fitting-Set
Dan
http://www.dreamworksrc.com/catalog/...nk-Fitting-Set
Dan