c_makhija

Is it possible to join the 2 fuse parts on the field without too much effort?
Would need to transport the fuse in 2 parts.

Thanks
Chatty.

PILOTMD11

My Feedback: (19)

You can if built that way with the transportable hardware method stated in the manual and provided the elevator and rudder servo extension wire connections are easy to get to. And the pipe needs to be mounted with forward attachment points in the aft fuse section.
If you do that, then yes it is transportable in two fuselage pieces.

Chris

FenderBean

Chatty it has a simple quick release setup, it has four bolts the lock in a groove then you tighten two screws at top and bottom. To remove you do just the opposite, remove two screws the left up and pull the tail comes off. Just make sure you have a servo lead disconnect at the joining area. The pipe is hard mount to the tail so it stays in place.

mauryr

I just got mine and I'll be building it to be split for transportation, will post pictures in a couple of days if you can wait!

c_makhija

Thanks Guys...
Very tempted to order this jet from Mauro directly as jet power is round the corner.
Keith, so 2 screws is all it takes to assembly the 2 fuse joints?.
around 5-10 min I guess?
just want to be sure as I have a Skygate hawk, which I assemble at the field and it's not fun.

Regards
Chatty.

mauryr

-Put the front of the fuselage on a stand
-Slide the tail onto the front
-2 screws on top
-1 screws on bottom
-connect tail servos (I intend to use sbus and 3 4mm bullet connectors glued in the bulkhead of the tail

Then you still got to put the tail feathers and wings on, obviously

The tail section with feathers on is huge

c_makhija

Sounds easy��.
Are the 2 screws on top and 1 bottom screw easily accessible or are they hidden in the fuse where we need to struggle with the fixing?

Thanks for all the help.
Chatty.

rc4flying

My Feedback: (21)

If I may answer your question.
The screws that securely mount the tail section to the fuse front half are all easily gotten to. One is screwed in from the bottom of the fuse and the other 2 are gotten to from the tail section opening at the back of the top hatch opening.
Hope this helps you to understand the this construction process. Well worth taking the time to do this assembly process. I have well over 100+ flights on mine with no signs of any issues.

mauryr

One thing that really puzzles me from the instructions is there is no mention to use the provided nuts to retain the bolts.
I don't doubt the fiberglass tabs are strong and all, but what's the point of using a M6 bolt when you thread it into fiberglass?
I think I m still going to add the bolts, it can't hurt and it's not that much additional weight...

rc4flying

My Feedback: (21)

The G 10 material that is glued to the fuse inside lip is threaded also. Once you have the bolt set to proper depth for the good fuse fit and easy removal of the tail section, you use thin CA to wick into the bolt threads to help stop the bolt from working loose. Than there are nuts provided to also glue onto the threads to provide the added safety you are concerned about. Don't know why they do not show them. But you are correct to want to add them.

mauryr

Yes, it feels strange the main load of the fuse joint is entrusted to a 3MM G10 thread.
Then again, with this alternate method, we have 3 additional load bearing screws. I am fairly certain these 3 screws would guarantee the integrity of the fuselage in normal flying conditions on their own.
I'll ask Mauro about it, see if it was an omission in the manual or they are really just useless additional weight

FenderBean

It's not it has a nut on the back as well

rc4flying

My Feedback: (21)

It is more than likely an omission in the manual that there are no pics with the nuts installed, but for me, the weight of four nuts for the assembly and safe construction of the plane is a weight penalty I would gladly add.

mauryr

Asked about this earlier and was told the G10 washers have been tested and are considered strong enough to do the job.
He added, though, that adding the nuts doesn't hurt and is certain to increase safety

FenderBean

If I remember correctly mine had the nuts but I can't remember.

rc4flying

My Feedback: (21)

The way that Pirotti is using the G10 glued into the fuse halves to mount them together makes for a very strong fuse connection that can be separated quickly and easily . But even without the nuts being shown in any photos, I would have bought some to install them myself for my own piece of mind. I must say, I really like the way this plane flies. It is solid.

lxfly

Just a picture of my orange Rebel with P220RXi reduced to 200N after the fifth flight. Really awful sports plane.

FenderBean

"Awful sport plane?" Is that a typo did you mean awesome sport plane?

lxfly

quite right, thanks.

mauryr

Anyone having any issues with the canopy fit? The area where the 2 side locking pins are tends to raise a bit from the fuselage body on mine.
On the manual it shows gluing some thickening material below the slits but that didnt help much and I m afraid tension could cause those pieces to break away.
Been shaving off some material from the front near the pin to try and let it sink some more, but still not satisfied with the gap

FenderBean

Hi Mauyr, I had to do some trial fitting on mine, I also added some thin ply to the fuselage side and 1/4 block on the canopy side to stiffen the composite insert mounting areas. That being said I have not seen any issues from this area on any of the two dozen I have seen flying in the last two years....I did see one last year when the canopy blew off in flight, the model landed without any problem, the owner believed it flexed enough in the middle to allow the pin in the front to pull out.
I tell you, I watched Pablo put his through the ringer at GA jets this week it can handle more than any other jet I have seen so far. Simply amazing jet, fast, slow, 3D, precise and engine out like a boss!

mauryr

Adding some wood to stiffen the mounting area of the inserts on the canopy side sounds like a good idea, I'll be taking that advice

FenderBean

I added min to the inside so you essentially lock the bracket to the side wall of the canopy as well as the bottom. Without this block mine was very flimsy, may not be needed but two small 1/2 in 1/4 in ply blocks adds no weight at all.

mauryr

Took the words from my keyboard!

mauryr

Keith, which servo arms have you used and where to get them?
Roughly measuring it looks like I'll need 5x 3cm servos and 2x 2cm ones (flaps)
My 'dealer' only has 2 and 4 cm (double) arms, and the long one comes with a big weight reduction hole which I dont like very much.
The hangar9 ones dreamworks has seem to fail. Not sure about the secraft ones, they also look flimsy...