Ultra flash dreamworks nose gear install help
#1
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Ultra flash dreamworks nose gear install help
I have been using the ultra flash build thread and its been awesome in helping me put my flash together.
This is the first jet I ever put together as I had my friend build them for me or I bought them used.
With all that being said I decided to tackle putting it together and have been building it as per the instructions
and so far pretty smooth until trying to install nose gear.
I opened the space to fit retract in and finally got it in and decided to put nose gear strut in and well it seem to be to long
and steering arm is above fuse. It looks like even if I dremel gear to firewall looks like nose wheel will not clear when retracted.
I looked at all the pictures on the thread but could not find any with dreamworks nose gear in detail for install.
Any info would be much appreciated.
Thank You
Last edited by CASEY4919; 12-01-2015 at 07:20 PM.
#2
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I put mine together last year, and installed the dreamworks gear, it was NOT an easy drop in and took some modification,, however I will tell you this, I am at almost 200 flights on this plane, and my gear has worked flawlessly from day one, I have had some screws come loose, but not fall out, blue Loctite solved it, and had to replace the tires but no issues. Im at work till midnight, but will try and take a good close up pic of my nose gear setup. You will have to narrow the rails in spots. Also if you have not installed he mains, get ready, they take some work too..
#3
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I'm in the same boat. Used dreamworks gear. Front took some time with the Deamel. Great when done though. Need to lengthen the opening in the Fuse. Do some sanding on the formers.
I will also see if I have a pic. Jet is packed away hanging from the ceiling right now so not easy to get too.
I will also see if I have a pic. Jet is packed away hanging from the ceiling right now so not easy to get too.
#4
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From memory.
1. Enlarge opening. Length and I also did some sanding on the sides of the opening to follow profile of strut so no hang ups occur.
2. Flip over your steering cable attachment on the pin.
3. I almost sanded through the top of the gear former U opening to get retract to sit flush. Hysoled a piece of carbon across the top to re strengthen.
4. Silicone blobs of the strut cable attachment point. When retracted it pulls cables out of way nicely.
Jonathan
1. Enlarge opening. Length and I also did some sanding on the sides of the opening to follow profile of strut so no hang ups occur.
2. Flip over your steering cable attachment on the pin.
3. I almost sanded through the top of the gear former U opening to get retract to sit flush. Hysoled a piece of carbon across the top to re strengthen.
4. Silicone blobs of the strut cable attachment point. When retracted it pulls cables out of way nicely.
Jonathan
#5
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Also try posting your question on the UF main thread. Many other guys may be able to help you with similar gear.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-j...video-198.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-j...video-198.html
#8
Even with the stock 140mm nose leg and 65mm wheel you have to lengthen the wheel opening 5-8mm
The Behotec C-36-2 set was the most reliable retract (air) ever made, I have over 600 flights on the original red cheque instruction manual aeroplane and a friend over 1000 flights with no gear issues.
The CARF set has now changed to Airtech complete set, time will tell if its as good.
The Behotec C-36-2 set was the most reliable retract (air) ever made, I have over 600 flights on the original red cheque instruction manual aeroplane and a friend over 1000 flights with no gear issues.
The CARF set has now changed to Airtech complete set, time will tell if its as good.
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Thanks for all the good info guys it is helping.
I counter sunk the gear frame into the mounting blocks and dremeled almost to bulkhead.
after all of that I realized that the steering arm doesn't clear the mounting frame when retracted so
am in process of setting gear so it will not hit then I will mount.
But first I put wood on the top of gear mount and used hysol to reinforce area. Dosen't look like it needs it but
peace of mind I guess. Gives me another day for more intel till hysol dries. lol thanks again
I counter sunk the gear frame into the mounting blocks and dremeled almost to bulkhead.
after all of that I realized that the steering arm doesn't clear the mounting frame when retracted so
am in process of setting gear so it will not hit then I will mount.
But first I put wood on the top of gear mount and used hysol to reinforce area. Dosen't look like it needs it but
peace of mind I guess. Gives me another day for more intel till hysol dries. lol thanks again
#11
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Lenn, I assure you that I meant to do that, it was not a mere oversight on my part, theres a long detailed reason for that, due to precision, location, advanced mathematics, the lunar cycle, and the atmospheric pressure at my sea level on earth.
Last edited by raron455; 12-02-2015 at 02:15 PM.
#13
Ronnie, for the nose gear, did you have to dremel the gear mount so that the steering arm sits inside the fuse?
#14
I have the same gear and link setup on my Sprint's Nose Gear. When the gear folds up into the fuse, the links are re-positioned perpendicular to the cables. This causes the cables to either be left sloppy when the gear is down or there is a significant side force on the links with the cables pulling when the gear is up. The end result was the steering on the ground was a little sloppy.
Seems like someone would have a better way of setting this up. Maybe go direct to the horns with the cables. ?? Next time I replace the links I may try this approach.
Seems like these connections would work better if the control horns were just round rods welded to the strut or the existing collar. The rods could have threads from the end of the rods thru the center of the rods. Then we would just bolt some swiveled links to the end of the rods. ? Seems like that would be a lot less froggin' around.
Seems like I flipped the control horn on the strut to get the horn further inside the Sprint's airframe. But, I think that caused me to shorten the mounting rail a bit. Can't recall if I left it flipped or not.
For the U.F., did the manufacturer provide a desired height for the gear or a differential in heights between the main and nose gear. If yes, this may help determine how much to cut the mounting rails, given the rather fixed length of the struts.
Seems like someone would have a better way of setting this up. Maybe go direct to the horns with the cables. ?? Next time I replace the links I may try this approach.
Seems like these connections would work better if the control horns were just round rods welded to the strut or the existing collar. The rods could have threads from the end of the rods thru the center of the rods. Then we would just bolt some swiveled links to the end of the rods. ? Seems like that would be a lot less froggin' around.
Seems like I flipped the control horn on the strut to get the horn further inside the Sprint's airframe. But, I think that caused me to shorten the mounting rail a bit. Can't recall if I left it flipped or not.
For the U.F., did the manufacturer provide a desired height for the gear or a differential in heights between the main and nose gear. If yes, this may help determine how much to cut the mounting rails, given the rather fixed length of the struts.
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Seems like someone would have a better way of setting this up. Maybe go direct to the horns with the cables. ?? Next time I replace the links I may try this approach.
Last edited by dbsonic; 12-03-2015 at 02:24 PM.
#16
Not thinking you have the correct nose gear
I cut the steering tiller down a little, and it fit mostly
the narrow part had to be cut and rounded some and the slot deeper. I sure hope the gear mount in the jet is in the right spot.. that would be bad..
I cut the steering tiller down a little, and it fit mostly
the narrow part had to be cut and rounded some and the slot deeper. I sure hope the gear mount in the jet is in the right spot.. that would be bad..
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That is what I thought also, gear was wrong. Called dreamworks and was told it is correct. The mains look hugh but haven't gotten to wing yet but from what you guys are saying a little this and that and they will fit. LOL
After working on it for quite a while I think I made some progress.I will post a couple of pictures.
thanks for all you guys help.
After working on it for quite a while I think I made some progress.I will post a couple of pictures.
thanks for all you guys help.