Skymaster F-18C Purchase from Chief....
01-16-2016, 05:48 PM
#76
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Moss Vale, NSW, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 181
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Last edited by mackeyjones; 01-16-2016 at 06:01 PM.
01-16-2016, 08:59 PM
#78
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Moss Vale, NSW, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 181
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
01-16-2016, 09:41 PM
#79
Well, They only put 4 brass sleeves in the parts bag. I can assume that this is for the bearing in the fuse and the one on the inside only. It must be a two bearing a side set up now. Otherwise they would have given the brass sleeves for all the bearings. without them the bearings are loose and do nothing rather than act as a "Spacer".
01-16-2016, 09:44 PM
#80
My bearings were not painted to bad and work great.
Attached is a picture of where I drilled my control horn, it worked great. I drilled and tapped for a 6-32 set screw and used plenty of red locktite. It makes me feel much better about the linkage.
Still have some work to do on the servo mounts, but the stab linkage is finished.
Here you can see the set screw.
This is the right side, you can see the pin added to keep the brass bearings and all from coming out.
Attached is a picture of where I drilled my control horn, it worked great. I drilled and tapped for a 6-32 set screw and used plenty of red locktite. It makes me feel much better about the linkage.
Still have some work to do on the servo mounts, but the stab linkage is finished.
Here you can see the set screw.
This is the right side, you can see the pin added to keep the brass bearings and all from coming out.
01-17-2016, 11:18 PM
#83
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Moss Vale, NSW, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 181
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I used the bearings there as they fitted without modification, and there certainly were not enough plastic washers to pack that out. Mind you the only instructions I had were from the SM Website, and even then that was an earlier model, are they PDF or a hardcopy?
01-18-2016, 04:16 AM
#84
What I have learned so far is that these kits are evolving. I think little by little skymaster is listening. They seem to be making small changes here and there. I have been in contact with others who have purchased new kits in the last 3 years and even those have slight changes. There is a difference between the C and F by far. Luke has the F model.
Instructions? Only thing I have is the downloaded version from Skymaster. And there are two posted on their site. F-18 and F-18F. And I can tell you they aren't much. I did hear a rumor that someone at Chief is helping write new versions as they go....Again, just a rumor LOL
Instructions? Only thing I have is the downloaded version from Skymaster. And there are two posted on their site. F-18 and F-18F. And I can tell you they aren't much. I did hear a rumor that someone at Chief is helping write new versions as they go....Again, just a rumor LOL
Last edited by Dblex; 01-19-2016 at 01:47 PM.
01-19-2016, 01:31 PM
#85
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: san jose,
CA
Posts: 880
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Mine looks exactly the same as the way Luke has done it but I have doubled up the elev horn itself. No other reason than just give it a bit more material (but I am not aware they ever fail). The only failure I gathered was the horn slipping on the elev rod, hence the set screw for anti-rotation.
01-21-2016, 06:44 AM
#87
Elevators take the most work on these planes, it has to be right.
I added a strip of 1/4" ply as a cap to the stock elevator servo mounts, then using West Systems epoxy I skinned the whole thing with carbon fiber cloth. Also notice the heat insulation I added to the air ram, time will tell what things are subjected to back here.
Servo now added:
I cut the excess off of the end of the elevator rod, you need all the room you can get when you install the pipe, also the pipe has a top and bottom! I found that it fits better with the slope down built into the pipe is on the top, if that makes any sense!
I added a strip of 1/4" ply as a cap to the stock elevator servo mounts, then using West Systems epoxy I skinned the whole thing with carbon fiber cloth. Also notice the heat insulation I added to the air ram, time will tell what things are subjected to back here.
Servo now added:
I cut the excess off of the end of the elevator rod, you need all the room you can get when you install the pipe, also the pipe has a top and bottom! I found that it fits better with the slope down built into the pipe is on the top, if that makes any sense!
01-21-2016, 07:28 AM
#88
I could use some pics of any of the C model guys component placements. Skymaster sent me 4 air tanks. I plan on using 2 and 2 but are limited on space. Not sure how much heat goes to the back along the fuselage. UAT placement and valves. Things are getting tight!!!
The scale cockpit depth is killing me on spacing. Fun times!
The scale cockpit depth is killing me on spacing. Fun times!
01-21-2016, 11:03 AM
#89
I guess I'm not a C model guy yet, but I have all the component placement already worked out. Easy compared to my Ziroli Panther with ALL options including radio operated sliding canopy.
I'm using two of the larger air tanks from Skymaster, and two smaller Robart tanks.
My air system will have 3 electronic valves and one servo operated brake valve. Air brake and wheel brakes will use the two smaller Robart tanks. Gear doors will have there own valve and it will have it's own larger tank. Then the retracts will have there own electronic valve and larger tank.
The smaller tanks are glued just in front of the elevator servos. The air line goes up to the hole in the next former to clear the wheels. I recommend BVM air line, because of it's superior heat resistance. My turbine is going to have a partial bypass, heat in this area is not an issue. I would build a partial bypass out of aluminum flashing material or buy a fiberglass one. It will also protect all of the air lines below the turbine.
I glued the other larger tanks in the nose and will make a removable battery tray that will sit over the tanks. It will hold my two flight pack batteries and my turbine battery.
I installed my fuel tank, notice the high flow 8mm fuel line. I think to prevent cavitation, I am going to use two overflow nipples from the saddle tanks.
I'm using two of the larger air tanks from Skymaster, and two smaller Robart tanks.
My air system will have 3 electronic valves and one servo operated brake valve. Air brake and wheel brakes will use the two smaller Robart tanks. Gear doors will have there own valve and it will have it's own larger tank. Then the retracts will have there own electronic valve and larger tank.
The smaller tanks are glued just in front of the elevator servos. The air line goes up to the hole in the next former to clear the wheels. I recommend BVM air line, because of it's superior heat resistance. My turbine is going to have a partial bypass, heat in this area is not an issue. I would build a partial bypass out of aluminum flashing material or buy a fiberglass one. It will also protect all of the air lines below the turbine.
I glued the other larger tanks in the nose and will make a removable battery tray that will sit over the tanks. It will hold my two flight pack batteries and my turbine battery.
I installed my fuel tank, notice the high flow 8mm fuel line. I think to prevent cavitation, I am going to use two overflow nipples from the saddle tanks.
01-21-2016, 04:18 PM
#91
My Feedback: (3)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: san jose,
CA
Posts: 880
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
There is room in front of and in back of the lowest part of the cockpit tub. Under the low part of the cockpit tub, there is some room but not much.. enough for low profile items. I put switches and gauges there.
01-21-2016, 08:44 PM
#92
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Moss Vale, NSW, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 181
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
This is at the rear of the cockpit, My batteries and air tanks are right at the front in the nose. The UAT sits in front of the fuel tank on a Ply bracket I made up in the front half of the fuse, My fuel pump sits near my turbine, but there is room near the UAT to mount it. The power switch and also the air fill valves and Gauges I have actually mounted in the cockpit behind the pilot now just for ease of access. I have also added a PB IGYro which sits on a plate in front of the Powerbox Cockpit. Ill take some photos later this afternoon.
01-22-2016, 08:23 AM
#94
Do everything you can to keep the UAT and fuel pump within view and easy to change out when you remove the hatch. I prevented a flame out because my UAT was in view and I had a flame out with an F-15 that had the UAT hidden when the thread tape softened and the cap came loose. Because it was hidden I had no idea until it was time to dead stick it in and then I had to pull everything out to get to the fuel system and find out what was wrong.
01-22-2016, 02:11 PM
#95
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Moss Vale, NSW, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 181
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I can see my UAT, Enough of it to know if there is a problem. The Fuel pump I mounted on a ply plate near the turbine on top of the inlet ducting, in clear view. I also used hard 8mm clear fuel line all the way through so that there was no possibilty of restriction and can see any bubbles easily, that was after originally using Tygon fuel tubing, and ending up with the fuel lines collapsing at sustained full throttle, all the fittings are intairco high flow. While my set up may not be exactly pretty, there is no lead. I can see the panels of both my powerbox and I gyro just by lifting the cockpit out. Unfortunately with the cockpit in place you are limited by what you can place underneath it, and still be able to access when you need it. Ill get some updated photos today for you.
While I think of it. I actually glued hardwood rails to reinforce the front retract ply plate, as mine started cracking after a heavy landing, if you fly off tarmac, I would also consider getting a spare set of wheels to keep in the flight box.
Also make sure when your taxing any turns are done at a slow walk as you can easily scrap a wing tip if done to fast.
While I think of it. I actually glued hardwood rails to reinforce the front retract ply plate, as mine started cracking after a heavy landing, if you fly off tarmac, I would also consider getting a spare set of wheels to keep in the flight box.
Also make sure when your taxing any turns are done at a slow walk as you can easily scrap a wing tip if done to fast.
Last edited by mackeyjones; 01-22-2016 at 02:30 PM.
01-22-2016, 03:42 PM
#96
You can cut the bottom of the cockpit tub out under the seat up to the seat cushion if you really need more room, just glue in a piece of fiberglass or balsa. No one will ever notice the bottom of the ejection seat is gone.
I am almost done with the basic layout, still need to install the UAT just behind the Powerbox. You can see the fuel pump on the right side, this will keep all fuel line clearly visible. I will glass and paint it so it looks pretty.
My wheel brake valve is on the left fuselage side, don't have the servo mounted yet.
I am almost done with the basic layout, still need to install the UAT just behind the Powerbox. You can see the fuel pump on the right side, this will keep all fuel line clearly visible. I will glass and paint it so it looks pretty.
My wheel brake valve is on the left fuselage side, don't have the servo mounted yet.