Skymaster F-18C Purchase from Chief....
#103
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (81)
Great Job!
My build update is as follows:
Elevator servos/linkages and control surfaces installed and working.
Steering servo installed, no pull pull yet.
UP3/UP6/Xicoy valves/UAT/Fuel pump, Filter plumbing installed
Landing gear checkouts finally complete. This was a good 2 weeks of work. Oh my, if I can suggest anything...READ these threads and learn from your peers!!!! For a week they held solid air and I was about to check them off GOOD. I would cycle them in the morning the pressurize the system in the down position and check pressure when I got home. I would cycle the air that was in during the day until they couldn't cycle anymore. Pressure up for the evening in the "up" position and check again in the AM. I have cycled these gear over 100 times to check for leaks and failures. On sign off the neighbor comes by to check the progress and I show off the gear...Left main is getting sticky and wont come down. I hear hissing now and wow...leaks all over the place. Air cylinders are leaking at the O-ring connections. Had to remove a few and tighten them up. Sealed them all now with Hysol!! LMAO
They are working great now!
I am signing off on the LG and Doors and moving on. As I mentioned. My advice was to not move forward on anything until I knew the LG/Doors were working properly. Greatest advice ever.
Updates to follow
My build update is as follows:
Elevator servos/linkages and control surfaces installed and working.
Steering servo installed, no pull pull yet.
UP3/UP6/Xicoy valves/UAT/Fuel pump, Filter plumbing installed
Landing gear checkouts finally complete. This was a good 2 weeks of work. Oh my, if I can suggest anything...READ these threads and learn from your peers!!!! For a week they held solid air and I was about to check them off GOOD. I would cycle them in the morning the pressurize the system in the down position and check pressure when I got home. I would cycle the air that was in during the day until they couldn't cycle anymore. Pressure up for the evening in the "up" position and check again in the AM. I have cycled these gear over 100 times to check for leaks and failures. On sign off the neighbor comes by to check the progress and I show off the gear...Left main is getting sticky and wont come down. I hear hissing now and wow...leaks all over the place. Air cylinders are leaking at the O-ring connections. Had to remove a few and tighten them up. Sealed them all now with Hysol!! LMAO
They are working great now!
I am signing off on the LG and Doors and moving on. As I mentioned. My advice was to not move forward on anything until I knew the LG/Doors were working properly. Greatest advice ever.
Updates to follow
#105
The plane looks fantastic i just got mine, hope to start on it soon. I will keep following this treat. will you make a movie about the relaunch flight with the new color scheme
kind regards Geoffrey
kind regards Geoffrey
#106
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Moss Vale, NSW, AUSTRALIA
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Just a pic of where I put the switch and gauges for air. Ease of access. The Igyro control switch is mounted close to the other switch, I just lift of the rear of the cockpit after the pilot, and can see both the powerbox and gyro screens.
Last edited by mackeyjones; 02-09-2016 at 01:42 AM.
#108
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Location: Moss Vale, NSW, AUSTRALIA
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As far as the Gyro goes, new addition so I will let you know after it is flown again. I plan on fitting one to the large 1/6th when it is out, mainly for when its taking off and landing, and also it saves a lot of mixing for flaps and when the speed brake is deployed. Also be nice to know how fast its going.
#110
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (81)
How is everyone doing?
I was out of town working and now finally getting back to finish up the jet. Since no one replied to my question above, I left the nose gear as is. Moving onto electronic installations and wiring.
Question on the rear electronics near the Heat and thrust tube...
Anything special to share? I plan on running all the wiring alongside the fuse away from the pipe and heat. My plan will be to heat tape it all or fabric insulation protection...
Your thoughts?
I was out of town working and now finally getting back to finish up the jet. Since no one replied to my question above, I left the nose gear as is. Moving onto electronic installations and wiring.
Question on the rear electronics near the Heat and thrust tube...
Anything special to share? I plan on running all the wiring alongside the fuse away from the pipe and heat. My plan will be to heat tape it all or fabric insulation protection...
Your thoughts?
Last edited by Dblex; 02-27-2016 at 11:44 AM.
#111
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Moss Vale, NSW, AUSTRALIA
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I didnt find it was neccessary to put blocks under the front nose wheel. I did reinforce the plate it sits in though as it is prone to crack. Sorry missed your previous post. I just covered my servo wires with cable shielding and zip tied it as far away on the fuse sides as possible. I just finished adding a smoke tank and pump to a center tank that is detachable, fitted single plugs for the servo wires at the wing joint, which I have been meaning to do after its first flight and just not got around to doing it( have lights in the wings as well so that does away with 3 servo plugs). Just waiting for new flight and ecu batteries to turn up, and Im good to fly it again. I also PM'd my email to you as I dont always check here regularly.
Last edited by mackeyjones; 02-28-2016 at 01:39 AM.
#115
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Join Date: Oct 2005
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the paint... that's unlikely to be anything you did so don't feel bad. These things to occasionally come with slight blemishes. From now on I will order matching touch up paints with these kits(ha I means arfs) as you never know when you might need it.
#116
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Moss Vale, NSW, AUSTRALIA
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Ron, I actually bolt the bottom turbine mount in first, then put the tanks in then fit the turbine and top half of the turbine mount, the hardest part is getting the front 2 bolts into the mount, the ply mounting plates for the turbine I recessed slightly to give clearance for the bolts then I just use and long reach allen key on the top and a tube spanner on the bottom.Takes a while but hopefully I don't have to pull either out for a while. Unfortunately with the larger turbine its neccessary to get them as far forward as possible if you don't want the lead in the nose.
#117
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totally agree, most likely a spot where the paint wasn't adhered to the glass properly and when its been flexed its caused it. I had a crack show up in mine near the nose on the original paint. When I repainted it, the glass underneath was fine, the paint just isnt as flexible as the fiberglass.
Last edited by mackeyjones; 03-21-2016 at 02:54 AM.
#121
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Definately correct 145mm is a good start. Taken from the leading edge where the wing meets the fuse. Anything further forward will make your flight a lot more interesting than it should be due to your elevator being very ineffective with the tanks full. As far as setting your travel 15 mm on Aileron Up and Down, 45 mm on elevator, 25-30 mm Flaps first stage, 60 mm minimum on Landing. be careful with both your rudder application and speed brake in flight. Speed brake will push the nose up dramatically with out mixing. Too much rudder also has a tendency to tuck the nose under in flight at speed. Very draggy with the wheels down in flight, you will probably get quite a suprise at the difference wheels up and clean.
Last edited by mackeyjones; 03-22-2016 at 12:15 AM.
#123
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Iain