Official Chief Aircraft/Skymaster USA New 1/3.75 Hawk Build. Flightwerkz
12-26-2015, 11:44 AM
#51
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Here is a great discussion about it as well where Ali chimes in about the use of flaps!
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-j...ster-hawk.html
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-j...ster-hawk.html
12-26-2015, 12:37 PM
#52
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Danny,
Please beware of recent losses of Big hawks due too much flap travel. We had a big discussing after losing at least 2 hawks possibly due to too much flap. There is even a bulletin produce by BAE on the real one experiencing elevator issues with more than 50 degrees of flaps. They recommended on the real one not to exceed 50 degrees
You will see in this video on my second hawk I got a lot more travel than the first one and luckily didn't fly it with the extra travel. I have right at 48 degrees of full flaps.
If you read the Skygate thread you will see the discussion and that Bezhard lost his due to that.
https://youtu.be/a_QU5f7nl6k
Please beware of recent losses of Big hawks due too much flap travel. We had a big discussing after losing at least 2 hawks possibly due to too much flap. There is even a bulletin produce by BAE on the real one experiencing elevator issues with more than 50 degrees of flaps. They recommended on the real one not to exceed 50 degrees
You will see in this video on my second hawk I got a lot more travel than the first one and luckily didn't fly it with the extra travel. I have right at 48 degrees of full flaps.
If you read the Skygate thread you will see the discussion and that Bezhard lost his due to that.
https://youtu.be/a_QU5f7nl6k
Jay
Last edited by BlueBus320; 12-26-2015 at 01:48 PM.
12-26-2015, 12:51 PM
#53
Danny that is a great thread and I read it back when I started flying jets and my first Hawk was a SM original 1/5 one and the guy I bought it from warmed me about it. Thank goodness if not I am sure I would have lost it.
If you read this thread starting with around post #1088 you will see good info on the slotted flaps like we have on the larger hawks. You will also see that on the real one the inside slat was cut down to help airflow to the stab.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-j...-house-44.html
I have notice that on both the new SM big Hawk and the Skygate Hawk has a full length slat. I did look at a new Flyeagle (Yes I know) that a friend has and it does have the shorten slat cut off on the out side similar to the real one that was recommended modification and doesn't run the full length. I sure they just copied a picture of the real one
.
The slotted flap do a lot better that the regular flap comparing the 2 different ones but you will notice that both the T-45 and later production Hawks (100) have a fin on the fuse in front of the stab to help improve airflow over the elevator during flap deployment.
If you read this thread starting with around post #1088 you will see good info on the slotted flaps like we have on the larger hawks. You will also see that on the real one the inside slat was cut down to help airflow to the stab.
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/rc-j...-house-44.html
I have notice that on both the new SM big Hawk and the Skygate Hawk has a full length slat. I did look at a new Flyeagle (Yes I know) that a friend has and it does have the shorten slat cut off on the out side similar to the real one that was recommended modification and doesn't run the full length. I sure they just copied a picture of the real one
.The slotted flap do a lot better that the regular flap comparing the 2 different ones but you will notice that both the T-45 and later production Hawks (100) have a fin on the fuse in front of the stab to help improve airflow over the elevator during flap deployment.
12-27-2015, 05:01 PM
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That's a great question! I'm not sure yet and may be a tough call because its not your typical rear end. Most of the time the pipe protrudes a little leaving no real room. I will definitely look into it when I get to that point!
12-27-2015, 05:34 PM
#58
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Thanks guys, I'm usually obsessed with weight in my builds, opting out of scale details for fear of weight gains, but not as worried about that with this one. I plan on figuring out a way to make AB lights work if possible. Even if it's not scale, it'll be really cool.
Jay
Jay
12-29-2015, 10:09 AM
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Its a really cool airframe! Anton has done a great job once again! The removable rear section is a nice option for anyone that needs to shorten the length for transport. Should be easy to manage with it detached
12-30-2015, 12:51 PM
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I was able to get one wing completed. The Covers to the hinges were a bit of figuring out. Glue two small pieces of wood to the actual hinge, remove the screw that pivots the hinge and slide the rear cover over. Slide the cover over the wood pieces that were glued to the hinge itself and either screw it on or glue it. Same for the large front piece. Adjust and trim the pieces as nessesary to have smooth and non-bonding operation.
Please note, on the covers, there are two different sizes including the corresponding small rear cover. Two are shorter and the same size and the MIDDLE one is longer and so is its rear piece. The longer one goes in the middle. See picture.
Please note, on the covers, there are two different sizes including the corresponding small rear cover. Two are shorter and the same size and the MIDDLE one is longer and so is its rear piece. The longer one goes in the middle. See picture.
Last edited by PowerBoxDanny; 01-05-2016 at 04:21 PM.
12-30-2015, 12:59 PM
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For those who have drop tanks, in the wing, there are two dowels that were installed from the top to the bottom of the wing internally. If you look very closely at an angle, you can see where they are. I have used marker on my wing to show. These dowels line up with the holes in the drop tank pylons. Make sure you put some screws through the pylon holes, use them to mark on the wing, over the dowels, and then pre drill so you don't crack the dowel. These Pylons are huuuuuge so, make sure you install these pylons correctly as they will be carrying the large drop tanks.
12-30-2015, 01:45 PM
#67
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Danny, can you give more detail on the location for the horns on the flap and aileron ... in particular the flap. Thanks!! I would like to compare notes before starting to cut holes.
JS
JS
I was able to get one wing completed. The Covers to the hinges were a bit of figuring out. The way they are setup is so the smaller part to tuck into the forward, large part. I didn't like that concept because unless it was a perfect fit. I am afraid of any possible binding during flap retraction. What I did is cut the smaller ones so that in the full up position, they butt up to the larger front cover. I installed two small wood pieces on the inside of the cover that was it squeezes onto the hinge sides and I can glue them on there. Came out pretty good. I will ass some more detailed pics later on.
Please note, on the covers, there are two different sizes including the corresponding small rear cover. Two are shorter and the same size and the MIDDLE one is longer and so is its rear piece. The longer one goes in the middle. See picture.
Please note, on the covers, there are two different sizes including the corresponding small rear cover. Two are shorter and the same size and the MIDDLE one is longer and so is its rear piece. The longer one goes in the middle. See picture.
12-30-2015, 05:39 PM
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I will post those pictures when I get it done on the other wing here next. This was the "figure everything out" wing and the next I will take some more pics.
01-05-2016, 04:30 PM
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Alright I am back at it. So today I was able to finish the other wing. As far as the cover for the aileron, I made a small opening for a screw up front and made a small piece out of wood towards the back that holds the rear section of the cover by the lip on the edge of the cover. Didn't take pics of that as I'm sure its not a huge task for builders to figure out.
To install the horn for the flap, install the servo with the horn towards the front of the wing and horn downwards. I use a standard aluminum JR horn. I used the links provided but I always hysol on a carbon fiber sleeve.
Once set and checked for clearance of full up flaps. tape off the area and used aeropoxy to glue in the horn.
To install the horn for the flap, install the servo with the horn towards the front of the wing and horn downwards. I use a standard aluminum JR horn. I used the links provided but I always hysol on a carbon fiber sleeve.
Once set and checked for clearance of full up flaps. tape off the area and used aeropoxy to glue in the horn.
Last edited by PowerBoxDanny; 01-05-2016 at 04:32 PM.
01-05-2016, 04:41 PM
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Alright, next step is the nose gear and nose gear doors. I will be removing the air cylinders and installing two 8411 servos to actuate the front doors. With the 28X, I have enough outputs to be able to easily manage all doors with servos therefor removing more air components. By the time I am done with the plane, only the landing gear and breaks will be pneumatic. All doors and air brake will be servo actuated.
I also just received a bunch of goodies. In this plane, I wanted to try out this new UAT. It is an awesome looking piece of hardware. Very nice finish and looks great. Also, I am using JMP's high flow tank hardware. It is definitely big and for the P200 I don't think 8mm is nessesary as I have run numerous P200's with 6mm hardware.
I also just received a bunch of goodies. In this plane, I wanted to try out this new UAT. It is an awesome looking piece of hardware. Very nice finish and looks great. Also, I am using JMP's high flow tank hardware. It is definitely big and for the P200 I don't think 8mm is nessesary as I have run numerous P200's with 6mm hardware.
