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Official Chief Aircraft/Skymaster USA New 1/3.75 Hawk Build. Flightwerkz

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Old 01-09-2016, 05:38 AM
  #101  
PowerBoxDanny
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Originally Posted by warblood
I think they fixed the door issue if you check my hawk the control arm or control surface i don't know what you guys call it :P its now longer and made of fiberglass not sure if Danny did cut them but they look shorter then the one i have .
I cut mine a lot because the geometry is totally different then with the air cylinders.
Old 01-09-2016, 07:00 AM
  #102  
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Nice, thanks Warblood
Jay
Old 01-10-2016, 08:09 AM
  #103  
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Originally Posted by BlueBus320
Nice, thanks Warblood
Jay
Welcome , for people interested to paint Landing Gear the color code of real hawk is RAL 7044 i will paint mine and and i will put some decals to make it more scale .
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Old 01-13-2016, 04:11 AM
  #104  
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Hi,

Just a quick response to some questions regarding flaps.

It is very important to note that full flaps (80mm) will override the elevator just after take of speed. You will need to reduce flaps as soon as wheels lift the ground - or take off with less flaps. We have found that big flap movement not really needed on a model this size.

Secondly it is very important to make sure the main tanks are on the cg. The hawk is very well balanced around the cg. Any more aft weight will make hawk unstable.

Full fuel and full flaps together must be avoided at all times.

Rgds
Old 01-13-2016, 04:15 AM
  #105  
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Take of flaps 30 mm for landing its 80mm
Old 01-15-2016, 07:05 AM
  #106  
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Been a few days, have quite a few things going on here at home but have had a few days to get some work in. The smaller tank is the smoke tank. I made a small base so that it sits snug up against the intake tubes. The cross bar is glued to the smoke tank but screwed into the bases on the ends so that it is easily removable. This is just my design, any other way should be fine as long as the tank does not move. The Main tank is mounted with the rear slot towards the top. It slides up over the smoke tank and butt's up against the fuselage. From there I made the attachements so it is easily removable again with a few screws.

This is not complete, all the tanks will be painted. Because of the weight of the tank, I scuffed, and hysoled the cross bar, which is basswood, to the tank and then added carbon fiber to disperse the load to the tank from the weight. Tank will be painted for finished look.

It is extremely important that the tank go in this position as was stated before, it is the closest point to the CG for BOTH tanks and any other position may cause issues with the flight characteristics of this aircraft!

Both of the intake tubes were reinforced.
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Old 01-15-2016, 07:21 AM
  #107  
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The rudder setup is very simple. I actually stopped because I am waiting on some linkages. You basically slide the rudder torque tube through the already installed sleeve. on the inside there are several parts and you can look at the sequence pictures to see how it goes together. At the end of the small blue arms will be two 2-56 ball links that attach to push rods. As soon as I get this completed I will post more pictures!
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Old 01-15-2016, 07:26 AM
  #108  
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I got a chance to mess around with the bypass and turbine. I will post pics of how I installed mine. The turbine is a P200SX and it looks right at home! This is a perfect sized engine. On another note, if you have a 200 pipe and the bell mouth you received is too small, please send a NICE email to John and ask for a 200 sized bell mouth. After speaking with Anton, it seems some might have received the wrong bell mouth on accident!
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Old 01-20-2016, 09:17 AM
  #109  
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Good morning all, I have finally started on the Hawk and things are coming along nicely. My wings are done, and I'm now in the process of installing the tanks in the fuse. Work on the wings was very straight forward. I'm using JR MPH83T's on all the control surfaces, and JR's aluminum servo arms with Secraft ball links. Im using the stock Skymaster lights for my Hawk and they are very good quality and work great. The wingtip lights on a Hawk are always a little tricky so take your time and make sure all the cut lines are nice and straight. I used the supplied plywood plates for the LED mount. It does require some careful trimming to make um fit just right. Make sure to leave a 1/32 gap all around for the tinted cover. I used some strips of Aluminum tape to finish off the edges. This thing is so much fun to build! Everything is so big and its very easy to get your hands in anywhere!

More to come

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Old 01-20-2016, 09:25 AM
  #110  
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Just like Danny, I have decided to replace my air powered gear doors with servos. I have roughed in the mount for the main doors which will also serve as the UAT mount. The servos lock the doors in the up position with a over center arm placement. No worries about the doors opening in flight! I made this out of lite ply and lightened the structure with with some forstner drill bits. Ill reinforce all the joints with a small bead of hysol, then sand and paint.
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Old 01-20-2016, 10:11 AM
  #111  
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Looking awesome Craig! Looking forward to Florida Jets to fly these Hawks!

I am currently painting the interior for final install of the pipe and turbine so pics on that coming soon. Tanks have been mounted but removed for painting later on. So the rudder mechanism is very simple. All materials are supplied. I exchanged the linkages for titanium non-turnbuckle. Also, I removed the elevator see-saw mechanism and installed a 1/8" 6061 plate underneath so now the bolts will go through this plate as to reinforce the area. I will post some additional pictures later on of it drilled and final.
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Old 01-20-2016, 10:29 AM
  #112  
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Old 01-20-2016, 02:56 PM
  #113  
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Hello Craig

Did you replace all gold clevis in the wings with Secraft ball links?
Old 01-21-2016, 02:29 PM
  #114  
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Originally Posted by vespino67
Hello Craig

Did you replace all gold clevis in the wings with Secraft ball links?

Hi there, I used the secraft ball link on the servo side and the gold clevis on the control surface. Very smooth with zero slop.
Old 01-21-2016, 04:17 PM
  #115  
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Got some work done on the Hawk. Fuel tanks and cockpit floor, and nose gear servos are all in. Like Danny said the fuel tank locations are critical to a good flying airframe and keeping them directly over the CG. The cockpit floor was made from a piece of G10 with some basswood supports underneath to strengthen it. Ill remove all once everything is complete to paint the inside of the fuse and all the parts.

I have also converted the nose doors to servo driven. I used 2 MKS 747 servos with the stock servo arms. Make sure to mount the ball links forward on the door hinge, if you mount them on the back side the gear will hit and not retract.

Lots more to come.

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Old 01-21-2016, 04:40 PM
  #116  
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Thanks guys for paving the way for us. All's looking really good!
Old 01-22-2016, 07:26 AM
  #117  
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Guys, I am really confused. Does the JR sponsoring work so well that you can afford to use $200 servos to actuate a gear door ?????????????
Old 01-22-2016, 09:09 AM
  #118  
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Yes quite crazy spending so much on gear door servos, if you need the torque to hold the door closed why not go with an actuator that uses a jackscrew:
http://store.firgelli.com/category_s/1821.htm once locked into position you would need to rip the threads for it to release, sky master uses these for their F-14 gear swing wings
Old 01-22-2016, 01:27 PM
  #119  
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Originally Posted by bluelevel
Guys, I am really confused. Does the JR sponsoring work so well that you can afford to use $200 servos to actuate a gear door ?????????????
Well, I'm the Jr Team member and I used 8611A's for the gear doors but being a Team JR member doesn't help enough to make my decision. I would have gladly spent the cost of two servos to have the doors open the way I wanted them to. The air system work just fine, I just wanted the scale look and since Skymaster showed adding a servo to lock the doors closed in a post, I figured just use one servo to do both. My Air brake is also servo driven and that may require two 6421's even though the air cylinder also works fine. I am looking to achieve scale closing and opening.

Originally Posted by Alkaline
Yes quite crazy spending so much on gear door servos, if you need the torque to hold the door closed why not go with an actuator that uses a jackscrew:
http://store.firgelli.com/category_s/1821.htm once locked into position you would need to rip the threads for it to release, sky master uses these for their F-14 gear swing wings
Everyone on here is free to customize their airframe the way you'd like! The Figerlli actuator may just work! IF you do decide to go that route, post it on here!
Old 01-22-2016, 02:26 PM
  #120  
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You just wanted to copy me LOL!!

I used 8711 NANANANA ....
Old 01-22-2016, 07:58 PM
  #121  
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Originally Posted by MNModels
Hi,

Just a quick response to some questions regarding flaps.

It is very important to note that full flaps (80mm) will override the elevator just after take of speed. You will need to reduce flaps as soon as wheels lift the ground - or take off with less flaps. We have found that big flap movement not really needed on a model this size.

Secondly it is very important to make sure the main tanks are on the cg. The hawk is very well balanced around the cg. Any more aft weight will make hawk unstable.

Full fuel and full flaps together must be avoided at all times.

Rgds
Hi All, this is very true. I lost a Skygate Hawk on landing due to having too much flap. It is fortunate that someone is pointing this out early for this Hawk.

Behzad
Old 01-27-2016, 07:29 AM
  #122  
flytmates
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Originally Posted by Alkaline
Yes quite crazy spending so much on gear door servos, if you need the torque to hold the door closed why not go with an actuator that uses a jackscrew:
http://store.firgelli.com/category_s/1821.htm once locked into position you would need to rip the threads for it to release, sky master uses these for their F-14 gear swing wings
I too used servos to actuate my gear doors, Mine are 8711HV's. Its not crazy to do this, especially when you look at the size of the doors and the problems these large airframes have with pressurization inside the fuse. Everyone has their own opinion and ways of doing things.
Old 01-27-2016, 09:13 AM
  #123  
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What I really like about servos on the doors is that when the power is off you can move them by hand. I have used screw type before and they do work well. The only problem is moving the doors after the power is off.
Old 02-03-2016, 06:06 PM
  #124  
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Danny ... have you stopped with the build thread or just taking a break?

JS
Old 02-03-2016, 06:28 PM
  #125  
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Originally Posted by jsnipes
Danny ... have you stopped with the build thread or just taking a break?

JS
Hey Jamie, sorry been super busy with unrelated fun stuff. I have been able to finish a few things. I will post them here in a sec.


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