Official Chief Aircraft/Skymaster USA New 1/3.75 Hawk Build. Flightwerkz
#103
Join Date: Mar 2012
Location: muscat, OMAN
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#104
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Oudtshoorn, SOUTH AFRICA
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Hi,
Just a quick response to some questions regarding flaps.
It is very important to note that full flaps (80mm) will override the elevator just after take of speed. You will need to reduce flaps as soon as wheels lift the ground - or take off with less flaps. We have found that big flap movement not really needed on a model this size.
Secondly it is very important to make sure the main tanks are on the cg. The hawk is very well balanced around the cg. Any more aft weight will make hawk unstable.
Full fuel and full flaps together must be avoided at all times.
Rgds
Just a quick response to some questions regarding flaps.
It is very important to note that full flaps (80mm) will override the elevator just after take of speed. You will need to reduce flaps as soon as wheels lift the ground - or take off with less flaps. We have found that big flap movement not really needed on a model this size.
Secondly it is very important to make sure the main tanks are on the cg. The hawk is very well balanced around the cg. Any more aft weight will make hawk unstable.
Full fuel and full flaps together must be avoided at all times.
Rgds
#106
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Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Saint Johns, Florida
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Been a few days, have quite a few things going on here at home but have had a few days to get some work in. The smaller tank is the smoke tank. I made a small base so that it sits snug up against the intake tubes. The cross bar is glued to the smoke tank but screwed into the bases on the ends so that it is easily removable. This is just my design, any other way should be fine as long as the tank does not move. The Main tank is mounted with the rear slot towards the top. It slides up over the smoke tank and butt's up against the fuselage. From there I made the attachements so it is easily removable again with a few screws.
This is not complete, all the tanks will be painted. Because of the weight of the tank, I scuffed, and hysoled the cross bar, which is basswood, to the tank and then added carbon fiber to disperse the load to the tank from the weight. Tank will be painted for finished look.
It is extremely important that the tank go in this position as was stated before, it is the closest point to the CG for BOTH tanks and any other position may cause issues with the flight characteristics of this aircraft!
Both of the intake tubes were reinforced.
This is not complete, all the tanks will be painted. Because of the weight of the tank, I scuffed, and hysoled the cross bar, which is basswood, to the tank and then added carbon fiber to disperse the load to the tank from the weight. Tank will be painted for finished look.
It is extremely important that the tank go in this position as was stated before, it is the closest point to the CG for BOTH tanks and any other position may cause issues with the flight characteristics of this aircraft!
Both of the intake tubes were reinforced.
Last edited by PowerBoxDanny; 01-15-2016 at 07:15 AM.
#107
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The rudder setup is very simple. I actually stopped because I am waiting on some linkages. You basically slide the rudder torque tube through the already installed sleeve. on the inside there are several parts and you can look at the sequence pictures to see how it goes together. At the end of the small blue arms will be two 2-56 ball links that attach to push rods. As soon as I get this completed I will post more pictures!
#108
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I got a chance to mess around with the bypass and turbine. I will post pics of how I installed mine. The turbine is a P200SX and it looks right at home! This is a perfect sized engine. On another note, if you have a 200 pipe and the bell mouth you received is too small, please send a NICE email to John and ask for a 200 sized bell mouth. After speaking with Anton, it seems some might have received the wrong bell mouth on accident!
#109
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Kennesaw ,
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Good morning all, I have finally started on the Hawk and things are coming along nicely. My wings are done, and I'm now in the process of installing the tanks in the fuse. Work on the wings was very straight forward. I'm using JR MPH83T's on all the control surfaces, and JR's aluminum servo arms with Secraft ball links. Im using the stock Skymaster lights for my Hawk and they are very good quality and work great. The wingtip lights on a Hawk are always a little tricky so take your time and make sure all the cut lines are nice and straight. I used the supplied plywood plates for the LED mount. It does require some careful trimming to make um fit just right. Make sure to leave a 1/32 gap all around for the tinted cover. I used some strips of Aluminum tape to finish off the edges. This thing is so much fun to build! Everything is so big and its very easy to get your hands in anywhere!
More to come
More to come
#110
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Just like Danny, I have decided to replace my air powered gear doors with servos. I have roughed in the mount for the main doors which will also serve as the UAT mount. The servos lock the doors in the up position with a over center arm placement. No worries about the doors opening in flight! I made this out of lite ply and lightened the structure with with some forstner drill bits. Ill reinforce all the joints with a small bead of hysol, then sand and paint.
#111
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Looking awesome Craig! Looking forward to Florida Jets to fly these Hawks!
I am currently painting the interior for final install of the pipe and turbine so pics on that coming soon. Tanks have been mounted but removed for painting later on. So the rudder mechanism is very simple. All materials are supplied. I exchanged the linkages for titanium non-turnbuckle. Also, I removed the elevator see-saw mechanism and installed a 1/8" 6061 plate underneath so now the bolts will go through this plate as to reinforce the area. I will post some additional pictures later on of it drilled and final.
I am currently painting the interior for final install of the pipe and turbine so pics on that coming soon. Tanks have been mounted but removed for painting later on. So the rudder mechanism is very simple. All materials are supplied. I exchanged the linkages for titanium non-turnbuckle. Also, I removed the elevator see-saw mechanism and installed a 1/8" 6061 plate underneath so now the bolts will go through this plate as to reinforce the area. I will post some additional pictures later on of it drilled and final.
#115
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Got some work done on the Hawk. Fuel tanks and cockpit floor, and nose gear servos are all in. Like Danny said the fuel tank locations are critical to a good flying airframe and keeping them directly over the CG. The cockpit floor was made from a piece of G10 with some basswood supports underneath to strengthen it. Ill remove all once everything is complete to paint the inside of the fuse and all the parts.
I have also converted the nose doors to servo driven. I used 2 MKS 747 servos with the stock servo arms. Make sure to mount the ball links forward on the door hinge, if you mount them on the back side the gear will hit and not retract.
Lots more to come.
I have also converted the nose doors to servo driven. I used 2 MKS 747 servos with the stock servo arms. Make sure to mount the ball links forward on the door hinge, if you mount them on the back side the gear will hit and not retract.
Lots more to come.
#118
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Yes quite crazy spending so much on gear door servos, if you need the torque to hold the door closed why not go with an actuator that uses a jackscrew:
http://store.firgelli.com/category_s/1821.htm once locked into position you would need to rip the threads for it to release, sky master uses these for their F-14 gear swing wings
http://store.firgelli.com/category_s/1821.htm once locked into position you would need to rip the threads for it to release, sky master uses these for their F-14 gear swing wings
#119
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Yes quite crazy spending so much on gear door servos, if you need the torque to hold the door closed why not go with an actuator that uses a jackscrew:
http://store.firgelli.com/category_s/1821.htm once locked into position you would need to rip the threads for it to release, sky master uses these for their F-14 gear swing wings
http://store.firgelli.com/category_s/1821.htm once locked into position you would need to rip the threads for it to release, sky master uses these for their F-14 gear swing wings
#121
Hi,
Just a quick response to some questions regarding flaps.
It is very important to note that full flaps (80mm) will override the elevator just after take of speed. You will need to reduce flaps as soon as wheels lift the ground - or take off with less flaps. We have found that big flap movement not really needed on a model this size.
Secondly it is very important to make sure the main tanks are on the cg. The hawk is very well balanced around the cg. Any more aft weight will make hawk unstable.
Full fuel and full flaps together must be avoided at all times.
Rgds
Just a quick response to some questions regarding flaps.
It is very important to note that full flaps (80mm) will override the elevator just after take of speed. You will need to reduce flaps as soon as wheels lift the ground - or take off with less flaps. We have found that big flap movement not really needed on a model this size.
Secondly it is very important to make sure the main tanks are on the cg. The hawk is very well balanced around the cg. Any more aft weight will make hawk unstable.
Full fuel and full flaps together must be avoided at all times.
Rgds
Behzad
#122
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Yes quite crazy spending so much on gear door servos, if you need the torque to hold the door closed why not go with an actuator that uses a jackscrew:
http://store.firgelli.com/category_s/1821.htm once locked into position you would need to rip the threads for it to release, sky master uses these for their F-14 gear swing wings
http://store.firgelli.com/category_s/1821.htm once locked into position you would need to rip the threads for it to release, sky master uses these for their F-14 gear swing wings