It's coming! Skymaster F-18 1/6 on 2016
08-20-2018, 10:39 AM
#502
As with flaps set up, if you are like me, looking for those scale heavy draggy flaps that will deploy all the way down, then you definitely need to compromise a bit of the wing trailing edge and run your rod to the top side leading edge of the flap to receive. If you are ok with only a mild 15 degree flaps, then just about anything should work.
As with the jet rolls left and right on its main, it is so true, but one'll get used to it by flying it on the ground, like none stop. Another band aid to this problem offered from SM is to deflate pressure of the oleo and let the jet bottom out, but I'd say don't do it.
One issue I do have is the wing pylons for the tanks, when installed, the tanks looked straight and level when they should have good margin of negative angle of incidence. The stock set up when tanks installed, really impaired how the jet should fly.
I would say that this jet is definitely not an entry level scale jet and does take quite a bit of work to make it work. Once you do, it's all worth it.
Regards,
Barry
As with the jet rolls left and right on its main, it is so true, but one'll get used to it by flying it on the ground, like none stop. Another band aid to this problem offered from SM is to deflate pressure of the oleo and let the jet bottom out, but I'd say don't do it.
One issue I do have is the wing pylons for the tanks, when installed, the tanks looked straight and level when they should have good margin of negative angle of incidence. The stock set up when tanks installed, really impaired how the jet should fly.
I would say that this jet is definitely not an entry level scale jet and does take quite a bit of work to make it work. Once you do, it's all worth it.
Regards,
Barry
Anyone has a picture of this flap setup Barry describes?
Thanks in advance
Gabriel
08-30-2018, 06:51 PM
#503
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So I'm about ready to fly mine, but I wanted to double check some things...
For the guys that have them working nice, I went mid mount K-180s (I'm at 6000ft)
- Is the factory CG about right?
- Are the factory control measurements about right?
- My motors like most are very close together, what do I need to do to be sure that they do not talk to each other? ( I've noticed that some guys are cool with just rotating them and some guy don't seem to bother.) Seems like it would be a little hard to identify on the ground.
- And lastly, for those of you flying them out there is there any other words of advise when dealing with this plane? This will be my first LTMA-1 plane and it will also be my first twin.
Thank in advance, Shaq.
For the guys that have them working nice, I went mid mount K-180s (I'm at 6000ft)
- Is the factory CG about right?
- Are the factory control measurements about right?
- My motors like most are very close together, what do I need to do to be sure that they do not talk to each other? ( I've noticed that some guys are cool with just rotating them and some guy don't seem to bother.) Seems like it would be a little hard to identify on the ground.
- And lastly, for those of you flying them out there is there any other words of advise when dealing with this plane? This will be my first LTMA-1 plane and it will also be my first twin.
Thank in advance, Shaq.
08-31-2018, 12:31 PM
#504
So I'm about ready to fly mine, but I wanted to double check some things...
For the guys that have them working nice, I went mid mount K-180s (I'm at 6000ft)
- Is the factory CG about right?
- Are the factory control measurements about right?
- My motors like most are very close together, what do I need to do to be sure that they do not talk to each other? ( I've noticed that some guys are cool with just rotating them and some guy don't seem to bother.) Seems like it would be a little hard to identify on the ground.
- And lastly, for those of you flying them out there is there any other words of advise when dealing with this plane? This will be my first LTMA-1 plane and it will also be my first twin.
Thank in advance, Shaq.
For the guys that have them working nice, I went mid mount K-180s (I'm at 6000ft)
- Is the factory CG about right?
- Are the factory control measurements about right?
- My motors like most are very close together, what do I need to do to be sure that they do not talk to each other? ( I've noticed that some guys are cool with just rotating them and some guy don't seem to bother.) Seems like it would be a little hard to identify on the ground.
- And lastly, for those of you flying them out there is there any other words of advise when dealing with this plane? This will be my first LTMA-1 plane and it will also be my first twin.
Thank in advance, Shaq.
I have 50 flights with my Hornet (F18C 1/5.75).
My CG is at 140, forward than factory but maiden at 188, it flies but I barely escaped from a flat spin.
I do not lower the ailerons anymore on landing with the flaps, even easier to land now
You can fly with factory control measurements, yes
I have also mid mounted turbines and needed to put a mu-metal plate between to avoid interferences.
To check : Start one engine and check if rpm from the other stays at 0
Arnaud
08-31-2018, 01:06 PM
#505
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Hi Shaq,
I have 50 flights with my Hornet (F18C 1/5.75).
My CG is at 140, forward than factory but maiden at 188, it flies but I barely escaped from a flat spin.
I do not lower the ailerons anymore on landing with the flaps, even easier to land now
You can fly with factory control measurements, yes
I have also mid mounted turbines and needed to put a mu-metal plate between to avoid interferences.
To check : Start one engine and check if rpm from the other stays at 0
Arnaud
Did you counter balance you stabs?
Lastly do you use the LE Flaps on take off??? And the rudders being turned I know helps it rotate but are they also deployed on landing as well.
Any one else with an F model please feel free to give any info.
Thank you its a very complicated plane and the manual does not shed much light on some of this.
08-31-2018, 09:43 PM
#506
Okay thanks for the info, with the full span Flap/Ali set up how did it respond? Also what motors do you have? I think in the pic you posted I saw that they were 200s? Does the residual trust make for any problems on landing?
Did you counter balance you stabs?
Lastly do you use the LE Flaps on take off??? And the rudders being turned I know helps it rotate but are they also deployed on landing as well.
Any one else with an F model please feel free to give any info.
Thank you its a very complicated plane and the manual does not shed much light on some of this.
Did you counter balance you stabs?
Lastly do you use the LE Flaps on take off??? And the rudders being turned I know helps it rotate but are they also deployed on landing as well.
Any one else with an F model please feel free to give any info.
Thank you its a very complicated plane and the manual does not shed much light on some of this.
With ailerons on neutral, I have more room to control the flare, roll stability and control is better and pitch is higher on ground contact. I prefer..
Try both, you will chose.
I have 2 Merlin 200XBL. Perfect power even in hot and high condition.
No problem with the residual thrust on idle.
I did not counter balance the stabs.
However, they stay neutral themself after the elec power down.
Inner rudder deploy : yes I do ! But not too much thow, to keep yaw authority. On take off and landing.
LE slats for take off or not : I didn’t see any difference. Take off is rather smoth in both configuration.
My nose gear strut is fully extended.
It’s a complicated plane, but some of the settings are more dealing with personnal feeling and preference than safety.
Arnaud
09-01-2018, 10:01 AM
#508
09-01-2018, 02:32 PM
#510
09-01-2018, 06:39 PM
#512
09-03-2018, 07:36 AM
#513
Join Date: Jul 2016
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With full span flaps on landing, drag is higher so the flare is shorter and I had sometime tip stalls just before ground contact when applying back stick.
With ailerons on neutral, I have more room to control the flare, roll stability and control is better and pitch is higher on ground contact. I prefer..
Try both, you will chose.
I have 2 Merlin 200XBL. Perfect power even in hot and high condition.
No problem with the residual thrust on idle.
I did not counter balance the stabs.
However, they stay neutral themself after the elec power down.
Inner rudder deploy : yes I do ! But not too much thow, to keep yaw authority. On take off and landing.
LE slats for take off or not : I didn’t see any difference. Take off is rather smoth in both configuration.
My nose gear strut is fully extended.
It’s a complicated plane, but some of the settings are more dealing with personnal feeling and preference than safety.
Arnaud
09-03-2018, 09:44 AM
#514
You can see a view of the motors on post number 270 of this thread.
I made brackets with fiberglass plates. If I remenber, wood slots for the motors are 3mm. Turbine bracket is 1mm, so I made a sandwich with 1mm fiberglass plate on each side of the motor bracket, and slide this in the wood slots.
09-06-2018, 12:46 PM
#517
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F18
honestly after putting a dozen flights on it I think k160’s are perfect and very scale!!!! I think bigger could be more fun but almost too much. With 160’s high alphas are awesome and you can pull out vertically out of the stall!
09-06-2018, 12:50 PM
#518
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I know I've asked before, but I cant remember: What altitude are you at again bro? Im sure Ive asked before...
09-19-2018, 11:12 AM
#520
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Alight guys, it flew. Things you need to know if you are considering this plane or setting one up. (E/F model)
CG : As recommended by the factory is wayyyy to nose heavy. Barry recommend me to balance the plane on the spare, so for the most part I balanced it just a little forward, just to were the plane hung nose down just a little. I'd be a little freaked out to fly the plane that nose heavy as recommended by the factory. Id be worried about take off and landing.
Motors :I'm at 6000 ft in Colorado, with an average density altitude on an 85 degree day at about 8700ft... two 160 size motors push it UNBELIEVABLY well. The plane came out to 59 dry, and it holds 2.3 gal/8.8L.
Things I like: Jets RC told me to not be afraid of it and he was right. The plane rotates great with the rudders turned in and the flaps down and leading edge flaps down. The plane fly's really good at factory recommended control throws. Landing is sweet as well. I did the full span flaps but I didn't go crazy with making them come way down. It slowed down just fine. Also the air line that Skymaster is using now is sweet. The gear is BAD *****. One 1000ml JMP XL air tank is enough 100PSI to operate my gear 7 times before going in to fail safe at 50PSI.
Things I don't like: If you get the operational canopy check ALL of the glue joints...mine blew off do to me not checking that. Now I need a new one. lol. Also (this is a little thing) Skymaster doesn't ship with any kind of mounting plates. If anyone would like I had my friend draw me some in solid works and I'd be happy to send to you so you can have a lazier cutting place cut you some. The company that cut mine have the files in file so if you'd like they can cut them and send them. they came out sweet.
CG : As recommended by the factory is wayyyy to nose heavy. Barry recommend me to balance the plane on the spare, so for the most part I balanced it just a little forward, just to were the plane hung nose down just a little. I'd be a little freaked out to fly the plane that nose heavy as recommended by the factory. Id be worried about take off and landing.
Motors :I'm at 6000 ft in Colorado, with an average density altitude on an 85 degree day at about 8700ft... two 160 size motors push it UNBELIEVABLY well. The plane came out to 59 dry, and it holds 2.3 gal/8.8L.
Things I like: Jets RC told me to not be afraid of it and he was right. The plane rotates great with the rudders turned in and the flaps down and leading edge flaps down. The plane fly's really good at factory recommended control throws. Landing is sweet as well. I did the full span flaps but I didn't go crazy with making them come way down. It slowed down just fine. Also the air line that Skymaster is using now is sweet. The gear is BAD *****. One 1000ml JMP XL air tank is enough 100PSI to operate my gear 7 times before going in to fail safe at 50PSI.
Things I don't like: If you get the operational canopy check ALL of the glue joints...mine blew off do to me not checking that. Now I need a new one. lol. Also (this is a little thing) Skymaster doesn't ship with any kind of mounting plates. If anyone would like I had my friend draw me some in solid works and I'd be happy to send to you so you can have a lazier cutting place cut you some. The company that cut mine have the files in file so if you'd like they can cut them and send them. they came out sweet.
09-19-2018, 03:03 PM
#522
which glue joints are you talking about? The airline in mine is the same stuff they always use so I pull it all out. what kind of mounts, mine came with all the turbine mounts and the equipment tray. I will be starting mine soon, waiting on some servos and one paint color to be mixed.
09-19-2018, 03:15 PM
#523
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There are two tabs on the lock that shifts forward to lock the canopy that failed.
Also so the plastic piece that glues in to the back deck plate that opened and closes the canopy failed during setup due to no restricters yet. If I had to do it over I’d check every glue joint in the canopy assembly, and I will once the new one gets in.
Also so the plastic piece that glues in to the back deck plate that opened and closes the canopy failed during setup due to no restricters yet. If I had to do it over I’d check every glue joint in the canopy assembly, and I will once the new one gets in.
09-19-2018, 03:55 PM
#524
Yeah the two front pins are very small any flex and they pull out, I made new pins that insert a 1/2in into the forward frame. I did away with the air cylinders and went with linear actuators. Not sure what you mean by plastic deck, mine is all ply and G10 material for the mechanics. The lock/aft tilt mechanism is a week point if not properly attached
