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BVM Composite Bandit Build Thread. Yes from 1998.

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Old 06-28-2016, 09:16 AM
  #51
essyou35
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The part number for the CF hinges is Rcsb1011

However they are $7.50 per set, and I need 12 sets so that's $90. A bit much for $5 in carbon fiber. I decided to wait until I get to that point in the build before I buy them.
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Old 08-27-2016, 03:35 PM
  #52
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Just finished upy YA-f18 single for as much as I want before maiden. Going to get started on the Bandit, with probably a less eccentric paintjob (maybe).
I picked up a full size set of plans and got my new pipe. The old pipe will be used in a foamy I am going to put a K60 in.

The first order of business will be to see what I got to do to make purple retracts fit. This way if I need to send gear off I can do that soon.

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Old 08-28-2016, 01:46 AM
  #53
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Quote:
Originally Posted by essyou35 View Post
Just finished upy YA-f18 single for as much as I want before maiden. Going to get started on the Bandit, with probably a less eccentric paintjob (maybe).
I picked up a full size set of plans and got my new pipe. The old pipe will be used in a foamy I am going to put a K60 in.

The first order of business will be to see what I got to do to make purple retracts fit. This way if I need to send gear off I can do that soon.

Joey, you did a great job on the Digital Camo scheme brother, ,it must have took forever laying it out and painting it!!
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Old 08-28-2016, 06:43 AM
  #54
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Thanks Ronnie!
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Old 07-12-2017, 02:36 PM
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Hello all, I just purchased a BVM composite classic Bandit. I am missing a couple of things that doesn't look to be available from BVM anymore. Mainly I am looking for a bypass and tail cone. I would be great to find some used fuel cells and hopper tank as well. if anyone has these items and want to get rid of them let me know.

Stephen Byrd
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Old 07-12-2017, 05:28 PM
  #56
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There are tanks for sale here:

BVM FUEL TANKS for BANDIT (ID: 1111742)

And what other part do you need? The very aft tailcone, the fiberglass part?
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Old 07-12-2017, 05:30 PM
  #57
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SByrd View Post
Hello all, I just purchased a BVM composite classic Bandit. I am missing a couple of things that doesn't look to be available from BVM anymore. Mainly I am looking for a bypass and tail cone. I would be great to find some used fuel cells and hopper tank as well. if anyone has these items and want to get rid of them let me know.

Stephen Byrd
I have a set of tanks out of a Super Bandit. PM me for details.
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Old 07-12-2017, 06:11 PM
  #58
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With respect, I dont think that super bandit tanks fit a composite "classic" bandit. FWIW I could be wrong
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Old 07-12-2017, 10:13 PM
  #59
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You'd be right Matt. SByrd says he has a Classic Bandit, which has a slimmer fuse than the SB. He will need these tanks.. Classic Bandit Kevlar Fuel Cells [BVM6080] - $355.00 : ShopBVMJets.com, your one stop jet shop! The SB has more fuel on board than the Classic. It was probably the main reason for the redesign. .

The current BVM Bypasses fit any of the Bandits, so you just need to get the right one for your engine, although an inlet adapter may be required as well.

And I will bet that BVM can also supply a tail cone for a Classic.. They are good with obsolete parts, if a little pricey..

Roger



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Old 07-13-2017, 02:10 AM
  #60
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SByrd View Post
Hello all, I just purchased a BVM composite classic Bandit. I am missing a couple of things that doesn't look to be available from BVM anymore. Mainly I am looking for a bypass and tail cone. I would be great to find some used fuel cells and hopper tank as well. if anyone has these items and want to get rid of them let me know.

Stephen Byrd
Try Tam:-
TamJets R/C Bros
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Old 12-21-2017, 10:03 AM
  #61
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Just catching up this thread.
A couple vids I have been doing, seems not a lot of interest anymore in these old builds. Probably doesn't help I suck at making vids and my shop is damn mess.

All the parts and stuff

Retrofitting purple retracts

Purple retract installed
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Old 12-21-2017, 10:10 AM
  #62
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Ive been working on this off and on, and am no determined to keep at it. I had to obtain some missing parts and that is taken care of until I find something else missing.

Keep in mind I am not a "builder" in the strict sense, so some things may seem obvious but I will still ask.

With that said, I am to the point I am fitting the wings to the fuse. The instructions say to use blocks under the wing root and the wing tips and align the wing with the fuse molding. The blocks are from 1 piece of balsa you cut up per the instructions to the proper lengths.

However I just want to confirm, these blocks are not setting the incidence. With the wings attached to the formers with bolts, and the wings aligned to the fuse, there isn't really much play at all in the incidence. this is because if the former is in the fuse, then the former determines how the wing sets. There is some play in the wing AOA but if you align it to the fuse its pretty much set it seems. The main problem with using the block to force incidence, is that because of where they have you put the blocks, the fuse can "rock" on these blocks back and forth. The instructions say to stabilize the fuse with other blocks, but how high I life the rear up will affect how the jet sits on the blocks. This in turns changes the incidence if I do some sanding or something to change it!

With that said the outside blocks on the wingtip almost lift the fuse off the blocks it sets on. Seems really inaccurate way to do this, so I wanted to confirm the blocks are just there to help you set up the wings. As long as the wings align with the fuse, and they are attached to the formers, then they should be good right?



The main thing I am trying to do is get these formers set, so I can get the bandit up on its legs and ensure the main gear are at the correct angles before I hysol in the mounts I made.
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Old 12-30-2017, 06:31 PM
  #63
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I got everything figured out with the formers. The instructions do say the main former (front) determines the dihedral. However there is some slight variance due to the wing bolts having some minor play in the spade spar holes in the wing. One was worse the the other.

I just finished the spars but have not glued them in yet. Because I have "bashed" this kit to accept the much better purple gear, This is the time now to ensure the gear are at the right angles. I have tacked in the left gear and it looks pretty good. Now I am working on the right gear, which is not tacked at all.

Pics of the left gear, it may be slightly rakes foward and when deployed may have be out a little far.

I know builder types, especially bvm types, are perfectionist but keep in mind I have very little experience. I fully expect to have some variance from where the gear will need to be, and I fully expect some variance between each other on the mains. I do have the ability to do some shimming but Ill try to get a video with a protractor.

After flying a couple of my jets for years, breaking them out here and there, they arent perfect at all. Its never made a difference on those jets once at take off speed. Not sure on this one though, I cant imagine it would. Gear get beat up over time for sure. It can have an effect on slow taxi though.

I realized my jet came with the plastic front gear mounts, I plan to get a set of CF for the balsa bandit.

A couple questions:
If the mains are not absolutely perfect, is it really going to matter (so long as the retract up ok and the doors close)?
Can this jet be done without the splitter plates so it looks more like the super/arf?
My canopy and hatch do not set will, some spring action in them with gaps against the fuse. Whats the best way to get a good fit?
I have more but thats it for now.
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Old 12-31-2017, 11:02 AM
  #64
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I built a few of these back in the day. Here goes.
If the mains are not absolutely perfect, is it really going to matter (so long as the retract up ok and the doors close)?
I doubt this will matter much. of by a little bit shouldn't make a difference as long as everything works fine. Using the original retracts and system would ensure the defined lines on the panel would be perfect. Changing to these retracts was a great idea over the originals.

Can this jet be done without the splitter plates so it looks more like the super/arf?
I don't believe so. The cheek cowls are designed to sit off the fuselage. The main purpose of this back in the day was to get clean air to the intakes.On the DF version the Bandit was very large for its size back in the day and needed the purest form of air into the intakes for performance. Bob was a stickler for that. End result was I know my Bandit DF was a cool 180 in level flight and hit 224 in a dive through the speed traps. Going through my memory I don't think there is any other way with how he designed it.

My canopy and hatch do not set will, some spring action in them with gaps against the fuse. Whats the best way to get a good fit?
It was common to fit the main hatch first and then the canopy hatch. You might need to sand a bit away on the aft side of the main hatch and on the front side of the canopy hatch.You used to be measured by your peers on how well your craftsmanship was by the fit of your hatches. But times have changed so you are probably fine. Today half of the worlds population can't define if they are a man or a woman. Key is take your time. It used to take me around 8 - 10 hours to fit hatches.
I have more but thats it for now.
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Old 12-31-2017, 05:09 PM
  #65
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Great to see people still building traditional kits in this ARF world.. Keep up the good work..
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Old 01-01-2018, 01:17 PM
  #66
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Unfortunately I dont have the original main retracts, just the cylinders. I do have the plans and thats what Im using, Id say Im within 1/8" from stock location, but I am not sure if something is different on the super bandit where the gear can fit a bit better. Anyways Im happy with it so far.
The canopy and hatch when set down on a flat surface do not sit flat as you can see it the pic, it sits on the fuse the same way. (Note the canopy cutout needs to be fine sanded yet so plz ignore).

I will try sand some and may need to use a heat gun to get it flat. Its like the inner/under lip is twisted down. Ill work on it some.

I think I have a small regret in that for the flaps I used the stock nylon hinges. I wish I would of use pin hinges, Im sure they will hold fine.


BTW the measurement of a man is no longer how your hatches fit. Its how big AND new your jet is. Given this is a very old and small jet, Ive lost my manhood simply by building it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by John Redman View Post
I built a few of these back in the day. Here goes.
If the mains are not absolutely perfect, is it really going to matter (so long as the retract up ok and the doors close)?
I doubt this will matter much. of by a little bit shouldn't make a difference as long as everything works fine. Using the original retracts and system would ensure the defined lines on the panel would be perfect. Changing to these retracts was a great idea over the originals.

Can this jet be done without the splitter plates so it looks more like the super/arf?
I don't believe so. The cheek cowls are designed to sit off the fuselage. The main purpose of this back in the day was to get clean air to the intakes.On the DF version the Bandit was very large for its size back in the day and needed the purest form of air into the intakes for performance. Bob was a stickler for that. End result was I know my Bandit DF was a cool 180 in level flight and hit 224 in a dive through the speed traps. Going through my memory I don't think there is any other way with how he designed it.

My canopy and hatch do not set will, some spring action in them with gaps against the fuse. Whats the best way to get a good fit?
It was common to fit the main hatch first and then the canopy hatch. You might need to sand a bit away on the aft side of the main hatch and on the front side of the canopy hatch.You used to be measured by your peers on how well your craftsmanship was by the fit of your hatches. But times have changed so you are probably fine. Today half of the worlds population can't define if they are a man or a woman. Key is take your time. It used to take me around 8 - 10 hours to fit hatches.
I have more but thats it for now.
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Old 01-01-2018, 01:27 PM
  #67
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So that picture shows a real bad warp on the canopy hatch. I am guessing both the front and back edges are lying on the table. You might try to heat the entire hatch with a heat gun and get it to relieve itself back to its original shape. That is probably from the years of sitting and in some warm environment with some weight on it.

So the original used pinned nylon hinges from its conception. And a .055 wire for the pin the length of the flap. It should be shown on the plans and in the manual.
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Old 01-01-2018, 02:31 PM
  #68
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Thanks John, the heat gun is working well. I figured as much.

Im stuck using the stock system for the flaps as I already used it, using the wire as the plans show. Just looking at the super bandit there are many nice upgrades I could apply.

Do you recall also, there is some information out there about the horizontal stab need to be 1/8" down off the molding in the fuse in the front? I guess it was molded wrong?
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Old 01-01-2018, 02:38 PM
  #69
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The hooks on the front hatch will help pull the hatch flat. Make SURE you glue the canopy on AFTER you get the hatch fitting and then let the canopy dry with the front hatch installed.

The gear rake won't matter, just getting them to retract into the wings and clear the doors, AND have the right to. Shoot for 1/2 degree toe in

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Old 01-01-2018, 02:40 PM
  #70
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And yes there is a fuse mold problem. The stab LE edge had to be lowered.
The original Bandit was actually going to be a full flying stabilator.

Long story on that
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Old 01-01-2018, 02:49 PM
  #71
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As Matt stated the original had a full flying stab. All of the kits went out with a stab/elevator system. And yes the leading edge is set 1/8 lower than the molded filet.
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Old 01-01-2018, 10:06 PM
  #72
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My super bandit from brand new kit had the same lousy hatch fit. I made multiple cuts in the flange on the front and back and taped the hatch on tight. Then re fiberglassed it as much as I could from the belly hatch. The canopy hatch was too long as well. I wouldn't allow the main hatch to sit down far enough. Fortunately after I had put new glass in behind the lip I was able to grind the existing lip off to shorten the hatch enough that it all fit.
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Old 01-11-2018, 09:07 AM
  #73
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So for the gear doors, I cut them out on the specified scribe lines. After reading more threads and seeing pics, I noticed that many people cut the gear door out so it it longer and attaches to the wing. I think originally with the way BVM had it, you glue the actuator into fuse? So this is another bolt and connection to make when removing the wings. Then you can glue the actuator into the bay and the door and actuator always stay on the wing when you remove the panel.

I decided to do this mod, I glued the actuator to the panel so it sets in the bay. The difference is that when I remove my door, the door and actuator stay. with the panel. The down side to this is that if I use the BVM quick disconnects in the stock spot for the actuator, the panel will be attached to the wing via the air lines. I already glued my quick disconnect wood in, and I dont care to to modify it. I already cut my doors out too so Id have to extend them with wood to get it to work.

So I will just use airline and robart quick disconnects into the fuse. This means when I remove the panel the airlines and diconnects with come with it.
Nows the time to tell me the error in my ways! It was a work around I came up with before I knew another work around already existed.

The white stuff on there is filler I need to sand off. I filled the spaces with balsa since I used a dremel to cut everything out I lose a bit more material. But I spare 9 hours and $300 in razor saws!
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Old 01-11-2018, 04:55 PM
  #74
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I did something similar, with the door cylinder staying in the wing. In fact the inner door stays with the wing too, when you remove the retract cover panel.

Look how tight that fit is between the inner door and the heavy duty strut. I have to redrill the retract trunnion to move the strut closer to the lower skin to clear the tire
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Old 01-11-2018, 08:19 PM
  #75
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Nice work.. I think your mod will work well. This is the Standard Super Bandit layout.. The SB was supplied with 4 quick connects. :-)
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