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BVM Composite Bandit Build Thread. Yes from 1998.

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Old 01-11-2018, 08:23 PM
  #76
essyou35
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Roger not sure how 4 is enough? Gear up, down, door open and close. Then you need brakes! So it should have 5 right?

I did a bad thing today, I sold the K100g I had for this and ordered a K120g2.
I decided after all this work I wanted the best.
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Old 01-11-2018, 10:03 PM
  #77
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K120 + Comp Bandit.. Sounds a great combo..

Four lines is standard plumbing for the SB. The "door open" line is tee connected into the gear down circuit. The "door close" line is on its own circuit, and switched by a button switch. Both the main slider switch and button switch are controlled with one servo, which is slowed down to achieve sequencing.

It is very simple and very effective, only uses one slider valve, one button valve, one servo, and and reduces your wing plumbing to 4 lines. . Photo is a little blurry, but you should get the idea..
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Old 01-11-2018, 10:34 PM
  #78
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With all due respect I don't like that button door closed system. (Although I do use the over travel button for brakes) When the gear goes up, their is no positive pressure holding the doors open. I prefer to hold them open with full pressure.

I also sequence the doors, I don't like the doors hanging open with the gear down, too easy to damage them
​​​​​​. Just my experience
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Old 01-12-2018, 09:46 AM
  #79
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OH I seen that trip valve in my kit I have not researched how use it yet. I have a spare sequencer and that would allow the doors to close on landing. Have you ever tried the dual electronic valves that don't need servos. That would eliminate the need for two servos.

I do think BVMs setup is creative for sure, especially since the electronic valves did not exist back then.
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Old 01-13-2018, 06:26 PM
  #80
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Ive been working on the wings, main formers/wing strut, cutting ailerons etc. I decided to switch over the the tail section to ensure I have all the parts. At a glance it appears I do.

I know the elevators need 1/8 off the molding, any other tips?
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Old 01-14-2018, 08:10 PM
  #81
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I had a big scare today but I think I am ok, I THINK. Let me know!

I have NO idea how the guy who bought this jet in 1998 didnt have the plans, it would not be possible to build it without the plans unless you've done it before.
Case and point, the elevators come mostly cut out for you, the are cut out horizontally for you across the stab, all you have to do is make a roughly 2" cut to remove the elevator from the stab.

There are two pieces of bass wood, one is 1/8 and the other 1/16 and the serve as end caps on the elevator and the stab respectively. BVM requires the builder to sand off material in order to account for these end caps. So I take my elevator and place it on the plans, do some measuring, marking, leaving some room for error etc and I sand my elevator down. Then I put all the wood in place with tape and have a look, and it appears the elevator is now too small even though it matches perfectly to the plans. I tripled checked, the plans tell you exactly where to trim to, it shows the elevator and the end caps very clearly.

On the stab, I removed the material up to the scribe lines like it says, but it appears I need to remove another 1/4"? I tried to line the stabs up with the plans but its impossible since they are not flat. I only sanded slightly on the elevators, not enough to remove 1/16" of material, I also checked against the other stab which I didnt touch yet, the same result.

So I am assuming the plans are correct, make the elevator match and sand off the end point of the stab to match, sound like a plan? The scribe lines may be wrong?

Also I assume these stabs are symetrical, so there is not a right and a left, but thought I would ask, they do not appear to be marked.

Finally a small thing I noticed, I suck at sanding. I have a 10" great planes alumunium sanding block and I still round things. Ill have to put 1/8" balsa down and flat out that elevator on the end. You can see in the pic I rounded the darn thing a bit, had to fix up my ailerons too. I had same issue with my YA f-18. I think the key may be to change sand paper more often when sanding carbon fiber.

I know some questions I ask are obvious but better safe than sorry, and I highly appreciate the help. I cannot get new parts for this so I am stuck fixing anything a ruin. You're saving me time!

Explanation of pics:
1) stab is trimmed to scribe lines, elevator matches plans, they dont line up.
2) comparing the inside of the stab where the elevators go, the black mark is where the elevator ends, note how the end of the stab goes past 0. (Between the 0 and the black mark is the length the plans have for the elevator + end caps)
3) measure the plans, the small end of the elevator, this measurement takes into account the end caps, the black mark is how long it is in the plans, compare this to #2.
4) A big picture of the plans of the stab, note the "trim to this line" comments.
5) measuring the elevator small end, to show it matches the plans exactly (may like .01 too big)
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Last edited by essyou35; 01-14-2018 at 08:25 PM.
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Old 01-14-2018, 09:10 PM
  #82
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Quote:
Originally Posted by essyou35 View Post
Ive been working on the wings, main formers/wing strut, cutting ailerons etc. I decided to switch over the the tail section to ensure I have all the parts. At a glance it appears I do.

I know the elevators need 1/8 off the molding, any other tips?
I would change the hinging. I like to make everything removable AFTER hinging, surfaces like elevators and ailerons. This is difficult if you mount the elevator horns like BV had on the classic. The super bandit has them removable
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Old 01-14-2018, 09:15 PM
  #83
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You could still switch over to robart pinned hinging. You have to open up a big gap to get them to work, then you cover the gap with very thin plates on top and bottom. You end up with no hinge gaps as a bonus.
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Old 01-15-2018, 04:23 AM
  #84
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I look at this thread and just hit myself. Why did I sell my Classic Bandit kit, oh why!!!
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Old 01-15-2018, 05:16 AM
  #85
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Its not all that bad to build at all, its not perfect though. The written instructions are wrong on some occasions but the plans are perfect.

Im also new to building and this may be my last thing I ever built. Though I was recently told this does not count as building either...

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I look at this thread and just hit myself. Why did I sell my Classic Bandit kit, oh why!!!
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Old 01-16-2018, 08:54 PM
  #86
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Elevators turned out ok so far, the scribe lines for the end of the elevator are wrong, so it freaked me out for no reason.

So far this jets going well, but it is VERY messy. All the sanding on on the CF skin and wood just makes a mess!

My goal is to have the tail ready to install (instructions say must be completed in 1 build session). But before I do that on the the vert stab to ensure I have the needed hardware for that as well, it appears I do but sometimes have to get into it to know for sure.

I need to order my engine mount too.
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Old 01-16-2018, 10:14 PM
  #87
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Make sure you use a bolt on the front of the vertical stab and not just a pin. Check super bandit plans if this is unclear. A lot of classic bandits suffered from fin flutter
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Old 01-17-2018, 08:21 AM
  #88
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You may have to show me if you can, I dont have the SB plans.
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Old 01-18-2018, 07:15 AM
  #89
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Been having fun looking through the original BVM website from 1998. There are other snapshots throughout the year.

Wayback Machine
Click on jet kits and have a look at the bandit and links!

Was this one nuclear powered?
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Old 01-18-2018, 07:25 AM
  #90
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That was the original Bandit "T", designed for a JPX turbine. That is a propane tank, just like on your barbecue. It had a 90 degree rotating nose retract to clear the bottom of the tank.

As for the fin mod, keep the little forward locating pin, but add a 4-40 bolt behind it. You need an access hole in the fin leading edge to get a ball driver in to tighten it. You mount a little plywood plate under the fin in the fuse to hold a 4-40 blind nut. You have got to get the fin on there securely especially if you want to fly fast.
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Old 01-18-2018, 07:47 AM
  #91
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Ok I'll be looking at that next week. Maybe I'll Judy permanently attach the rudder with c.f. rods into the fuse? Then hysol it on.
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Old 01-18-2018, 09:10 AM
  #92
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I am not sure how you would get to the rudder servo if you glued it on. I would not do that
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Old 01-18-2018, 08:11 PM
  #93
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I havent looked at the install for a long time, I was thinking there was a servo access door like on the wings. It looks like it just goes up underneath so I see what you are saying.
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