DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

Surprisingly little info on this jet. There is no manual available, I know a few people have built them and got them in the air. Anyone who has built one, please share your opinion on how things went together!

I traded my Fly Technique Mig-15 kit to a buddy for the Yak with two KT 140's installed. A lot of the work was done, just needs final equipment installed. I LOVE having so much room to put stuff in. Beats the hell out of cutting your hands and having to be a gymnast to get to certain places in the fuse.

I have Gary at Jettech making custom tanks, I didn't have the hardware for the plastic tanks they provide and just feel more comfortable with his tanks.

There is a great place between the fuse halves to plumb things and put equipment. I'm putting all but one of the air valves there, and the two ECU's. The length of cabling on the ECU's works out perfect here, they can reach the turbines, and the pump and power cords reach an easily accessible place by the canopy. They put a place for 5 small air tanks. I am putting three there for the front half of the plane, and two large tanks in the leading edge of the wings for the back half. The smoke pump and will sit in the space where the two tanks would be. The air intakes went about 6-8" past the join point on the fuse. I cut them off flush with the front. They were actually aimed below the turbines, just in the way.

Again, anyone who has built one, please feel free to jump in and post pics/criticize.

cmjets

Hello friends:
4L+4L Yak-130 CMJETS Tanks !
kevlar version availables too !!
Regards from Spain.
Carlos
www.cmjets.com

cmjets

Kevlar Yak-130 tanks

mongo

My Feedback: (15)

nice acquire there doc.
been seeing adds for your return tour coming to odessa/midland on the 30th april at the haciendia events center here.
thought you had forgone the whole "ice ice baby" thing, vanilla<G>.

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

Oh I wish I had saved all of those pics Mongo!

Carlos, I am mounting my two tanks vertically. Are you stacking them horizontally? I'm putting two 3x8.25x9" tanks side by side vertically. I have to cut the former in the back to get them in, but I will just re-attach. Worth not having to plumb four tanks IMO.

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

Got my tanks back from Gary at Jettech. I made an error on measuring things. Those who order from him in the future will not run into the same problem ;-) I didn't factor where the cockpit seat would hit, so the top corner of the tank keeps the cockpit from sliding back far enough. I had to cut the cross brace in the back to get the tanks in regardless, so I just slid the tanks back about 1.5" and all is good. I actually like them in this position better because it is closer to the CG and it allows me to plumb all the vent lines straight down in front of the tanks. If you are not keen on cutting the X brace out, you will might need four tanks to get the capacity I wanted. I've got 3.6L of fuel for each turbine with this tank. Cutting the corner of it off will reduce that slightly. Gary is waiting on these pics, so I will post these now and then a bunch more later. This kit is awesome, so much space to place things, just no manual to guide you...LOL There is room for a half moon tank on top of these as a header or for smoke. I'm choosing smoke.

Stacking the on top of each other like the ones Carlos showed may be the better route to take. Not sure of the capacity you can get doing it that way and have the top tank not run into the cockpit?

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

I wanted to make all the connections from the two halves of the fuse easy to separate. I'm using the Royal SRS, but the back end was pretty much already wired traditionally. I did make the two elevator servos and rudder S-bus. It turned three seven foot extensions into one powerbus cable. Probably should have done the rest, but I ordered 12 4' extensions and wouldn't know what to do with them if I didn't use them. It should be pretty easy to join and split the fuse now.

Placing the ECU's in the middle worked out perfectly. The wiring loom reaches the turbines, and the fuel pump up by the tanks without extending any leads. Only had to lengthen the power wire to get up to the nose.

DUCMOZ

Hey Mike

those braces and cross braces all have a purpose. Is it safe to cut them out?

Behzad

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

Guess we'll find out huh?? ;-) No, Pretty sure it was to keep the tanks in, not much else. Very rigid. I would reinforce the the remaining cross braces if I thought it was critical. You know how I like carbon fiber Behzad :-)

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

More progress on the equipment. JL supplies a board to hold stuff with a lot of pre-cut holes. I filled in most of them. The cutouts are the outline of the BVM style UAT, but way too big. Not sure what the rationale was there. The full depth cockpit sits about an inch away from the UAT's. It would be tough to put everything just on that board. With putting stuff up on the sides, there is plenty of room. I put the powerbox display on a hinge so I can swing it down and clear the cockpit. I'll use this for programming and to glance at it for voltage, debated on keeping it in the plane. I ordered two of the small displays that Lior is making, not sure where they will go yet. I didn't order both of the fuel filters at the same time so the anodizing was not the same color... ;-( Had to order a third, couldn't stomach seeing two different colors in there. I was bummed dreamwork was out of red valve mounts, but odds are they wouldn't have been the same red anyway.

starfire24

My Feedback: (82)

have you figured out how the lighting sys that comes with the YAK works.. Russ

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

I didn't get the lighting kit... this plane was acquired in trade from a buddy. I might have to look into it, I like the landing lights. Just not keen on drilling out to the wing tips...

Did you and Gary figure out tank sizes Russ?

Here are pics of mine before joining the fuse. 32oz nalgene on top for smoke.

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

Thanks to Lee Seabrook, I found the Light Kit that Boom RC sells.

http://www.boomarc.com/en/ils-01-basic-jet-kit

The nose gear steering servo is not the best design. The servo sits too low if you put the bracket below it, if you put the servo through the bracket, it helps, but the servo arm still hits the front gear door. Luckily, you don't need a ton of throw. If you put the servo arm offset about 2 o'clock, everything is fine. Would have been nice to have it farther up into the fuse though.

DUCMOZ

Mike, Z bend and solder the threaded collar to it. it would sit almost flush with the servo arm.

B

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

Its the arm that hits the gear door Behzad, even the smaller stock JR ones do it.

DUCMOZ

maybe you can go cross with slight bend in the middle to clear the strut.

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

LOL, again, its the servo arm hitting the closed gear door. not the linkage. Just had to move it forward and mount servo under the plate. Just posted so that the next hapless fool who starts working on this plane with no manual won't have to fight with it...

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

Talking to Mark Hinton and reading about the main gear doors not staying closed, I have a few ideas to try to prevent it. So the problem is, there is no where for the incoming air to go. Not enough venting around the two pipes. There is a 4x6" access hatch in between the two exhaust exits used to access the servos. I plan on venting the hatch to allow some air to escape. My other idea, and I would like opinions on this, is to put a plate in front of the gear on the main bulkhead. I shaded the area on the left to show where I would like to do it. Hoping that this will deflect air from the gear doors and possibly create a low pressure zone by the gear doors. Tubbing the whole gear area would work, but not sure I can do with with the way the gear are mounted. The potential negative is that it could work too well and keep the doors from dropping. Mark used high quality cylinders and still had the problem.


What do you guys think?

DUCMOZ

Hi Mike

the Skygate hawk has the same issue. It was resolved by blocking some of the inlet from the inside and reducing the air going in. Mine did not show the problem as I redirected the air by adding to the inlet duct and bringing the air to the turbine. Also I made sure I have ample gap around the exhaust pipe.

behzad

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

Shouldn't you be on the beach with a MaiTai in your hand??? ;-) Does the blocked inlet show? Makes sense I'll consider that as well. I had a few air leaks, the speed brake cylinder was leaking badly. lubed both ends and cycled it a ton, it finally stopped. I had a Robart in my hand ready to replace it. Also had one defective xicoy valve. Not bad, I've probably purchased twenty of them.

Everything works, radio is programmed, just need to put all the trays back together and connect all the plumbing. It will be ready soon :-)

DUCMOZ

Getting ready for that. Yep, the more complex they are the more stuff can give us grief. Look for the Carf Skygate Hawk thread and there are pictures there. I can help this weekend if you need it.

Behzad

jetnuno

Hi

I did manage to fit everything up in the front. Plus I have an opening canopy. Hope it helps

here is a video to enjoy. You can see animatronic pilot and opening canopy

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_SKBZuBxAJw

jetnuno

Just put an extra cilinder at the rear part of the main door. No problem then..... I have no extra vents in the rear. No matter how big vents are, the fuse pressure will be high, bacause the fuse is huge and the intakes do allow lots of air inside.

Did you install the intakes in the rear part of the fuse? Any way they can not go all the way to the turbines, cause they will hit the gear

Put an extra cilinder. See the video, no worries

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

Thanks for replying JetJuno... I have watched all your videos... ;-) Have you flown the plane with more ordinance yet? When you say add another cylinder, do you mean two on the back door, or just one on the front door and one on the back? Mine only has one cylinder for both doors. I really thought it was clever the way this is done, but turns out it might not be ideal. I cut the intakes to flush with the back of the front part of the fuse. Didn't see the sense in having them stick that far back when it isn't in a bypass.

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

double post