Kingtech presents the all new T1 sports jet
09-26-2016, 12:56 PM
#651
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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Chicago, IL
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Thanks for reference to http://leisurercmodels.com/adhesives...-products.html
09-27-2016, 03:01 AM
#652
Ok so thanks to you guys that are looking out after me I will be replacing the blue Tygon tubing from the tank to the UTA, and to the pump with clear tubing supplied by KingTech. Don't know why I did not use it in the first place, habit I guess 
I also got a 4mm ball valve for the shut off, I don't like the festo fittings.
When I do nematic gear setups I like to test each section on its own to eliminate leak searching. So I pumped up the main system, and let it sit over night, neddle did not budg. So then when I add the wings and it won't hold air I know it's the wings, I do one wing at a time.
I also tested all servo leads as once this pup is all put together it will be a pain to get to anything. Next I will redo the fuel system and install the tray. That will complete the fuselage
TB
I also got a 4mm ball valve for the shut off, I don't like the festo fittings.
When I do nematic gear setups I like to test each section on its own to eliminate leak searching. So I pumped up the main system, and let it sit over night, neddle did not budg. So then when I add the wings and it won't hold air I know it's the wings, I do one wing at a time.
I also tested all servo leads as once this pup is all put together it will be a pain to get to anything. Next I will redo the fuel system and install the tray. That will complete the fuselage
TB
Hey Tony, if you are taking the time to redo your fuel system then I'd recommend moving your fuel pickup point (UAT) to a different location. Your setup is very clean and tidy but if for some reason you spring a leak at that point it will go straight out and on to your ECU. Enjoying your build pics and keep up the good work
09-27-2016, 03:15 AM
#653
My Feedback: (34)
Tony why the turbo reg, you gonna run lipos?
Getting a bit done this morning. I am working from the noes back.
Noes cone is done with bats, telemitry, ASI (pitot tube).
I chose to put the pitot in the noes for eas of access and installation.
Reciever bats are mounted here and run back to the volt regulator.
The UP3 valve is plumbed and I tested the front gear doors and noes retract before I move on. The door and gear work great, just needs 20-30 lb to slam it down. I slowed down the gear as it was fallowing the gear door almost simultaneous. Smart fly board is under the main tray and I may put some more stuff under there.
I need to install the break valve and the gear failsafe next to complete this section. I will layout the main board next.
TB
Noes cone is done with bats, telemitry, ASI (pitot tube).
I chose to put the pitot in the noes for eas of access and installation.
Reciever bats are mounted here and run back to the volt regulator.
The UP3 valve is plumbed and I tested the front gear doors and noes retract before I move on. The door and gear work great, just needs 20-30 lb to slam it down. I slowed down the gear as it was fallowing the gear door almost simultaneous. Smart fly board is under the main tray and I may put some more stuff under there.
I need to install the break valve and the gear failsafe next to complete this section. I will layout the main board next.
TB
09-27-2016, 03:43 AM
#654
Hey Tony, if you are taking the time to redo your fuel system then I'd recommend moving your fuel pickup point (UAT) to a different location. Your setup is very clean and tidy but if for some reason you spring a leak at that point it will go straight out and on to your ECU. Enjoying your build pics and keep up the good work
But I think I have a solution!
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 09-27-2016 at 04:01 AM.
09-27-2016, 03:50 AM
#655
when I first purchased the T-one I was using (and planed on using) a Futaba GS18 radio. I Would be using dule receivers so I got the turbo reg for the two bateries and the two recievers. But then I converted to spectrum and got the AR12120. I am using 8.4v Lilos! I know I don't need it but being I have it and I like the failsafe pin flag switch. I know I don't need it and there are other switches I can use but I got this so unles there is a reason not to use it (I'm asking?) I will use it!
TB
TB
09-27-2016, 04:49 AM
#656
My Feedback: (34)
Not at all. Some people use it cause they use a non digital simple servo for the retracts and wanna keep the voltage at 5.9 all the way around. I know not needed if using life either. I was just curious. I bought one myself and was thinking of using it but just went ahead and got a retract servo that can handle the life voltage without regulation
09-27-2016, 06:45 AM
#658
So I was told that the board is fiberglass not CF. Its not solid composite as its sandwiched between plywood. I would get my antennas out on the sides, top and bottom to help with signal.
09-27-2016, 07:21 AM
#661
09-27-2016, 03:32 PM
#663
The AR12120 has a switch port and comes with a fail on switch that you can screw down to any solid plate. Another option is put a bind plug in the switch port on the AR12120 to turn it off and attach a 'remove before flight' pin tag to the bind plug. When you're at the field you just pull the plug and assuming you have batts connected everything springs to life
TB
09-27-2016, 03:35 PM
#664
Ok so I redid my fuel tank clunk as per Dirks recommendations! Heavy duty BVM clunk and a section of 5/23" bras tubing to keep it from folding back in the tank. If you all see anything that is not right please comment otherwise I will take it is good to go.
TB
TB
09-27-2016, 04:36 PM
#666
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Granby, QC, CANADA
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09-28-2016, 04:07 AM
#673
Hey Tony, if you are taking the time to redo your fuel system then I'd recommend moving your fuel pickup point (UAT) to a different location. Your setup is very clean and tidy but if for some reason you spring a leak at that point it will go straight out and on to your ECU. Enjoying your build pics and keep up the good work
ECU is going here! Thanks.
TB
09-28-2016, 06:27 AM
#674
Be carefull with positioning equipment too far forward, I set mine at 230 mm C/G with all batteries in the nose with 3 oz lead . After 5 flights I removed all the lead and will probably move a battery back. I need to see were it balances now but my guess is that 235-240 like Gunradd suggested is the sweet spot. I am very happy with this plane{ I love the removable nose} and had no problems except the retract covers need to be longer. this plane has very high quality and great value and flies great!!
Scott
Scott
09-28-2016, 06:53 AM
#675
Be carefull with positioning equipment too far forward, I set mine at 230 mm C/G with all batteries in the nose with 3 oz lead . After 5 flights I removed all the lead and will probably move a battery back. I need to see were it balances now but my guess is that 235-240 like Gunradd suggested is the sweet spot. I am very happy with this plane{ I love the removable nose} and had no problems except the retract covers need to be longer. this plane has very high quality and great value and flies great!!
Scott
Scott
TB