Kingtech presents the all new T1 sports jet
08-11-2016, 02:51 PM
#251
I also did an L bracket I bent from a piece of stainless I had laying around for the mains. Did one solid door on the nose. I wanted a split door on the nose but the steering servo hangs out some so it would have to be a huge front strut door and just went the easy route and did one solid door that is closed with a servo and sequenced in the DX18.
Well I cant load pics because RCU is messing up
I will try agian later
Well I cant load pics because RCU is messing up
I will try agian later
08-12-2016, 05:14 AM
#255
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i got an e-mail from Dirk on monday the 8th with a picture of a shipping invoice, then a text message from DHL on wednesday the 10th saying monday the 15th by the end of the day.
08-12-2016, 05:41 AM
#257
Also for those that are new to turbines building this plane please feel free to ask us questions. Also special care needs to be taken on this plane for the servo wires. The way the elevator servos and rudder servos get installed if you dont use special care the wires can hit the exhaust pipe.
Another tip..... When I got to Kentucky to do my first flight after a long trip some of the wing clapping screws where gone. The vibrations from the long drive caused them to fall out. This is a problem on this plane because the screws are bigger them the holes you use to tighten them. So if they fall out you will need to enlarge the holes to reinstall. I asked the factory to apply some lock tight to the new kits but not sure if they did. On some of my other planes with clamp screws lock tight fixed the issue. Another way to to simply tighten them back after removing the wing or installing dowels in the clamps and then tighten them. All they need it just a little tension so during transport they dont fall out. Do not over tighten them.
On mine I made sure the connections did not have a bunch of loose wire and are secured well. When I get time I plan on going back and making all the servo connections hard point. I already ordered the parts to convert the airports to the BVM ones that you just slide the wing on and your done.
Another tip..... When I got to Kentucky to do my first flight after a long trip some of the wing clapping screws where gone. The vibrations from the long drive caused them to fall out. This is a problem on this plane because the screws are bigger them the holes you use to tighten them. So if they fall out you will need to enlarge the holes to reinstall. I asked the factory to apply some lock tight to the new kits but not sure if they did. On some of my other planes with clamp screws lock tight fixed the issue. Another way to to simply tighten them back after removing the wing or installing dowels in the clamps and then tighten them. All they need it just a little tension so during transport they dont fall out. Do not over tighten them.
On mine I made sure the connections did not have a bunch of loose wire and are secured well. When I get time I plan on going back and making all the servo connections hard point. I already ordered the parts to convert the airports to the BVM ones that you just slide the wing on and your done.
Last edited by gunradd; 08-12-2016 at 05:47 AM.
08-12-2016, 12:45 PM
#258
Also for those that are new to turbines building this plane please feel free to ask us questions. Also special care needs to be taken on this plane for the servo wires. The way the elevator servos and rudder servos get installed if you dont use special care the wires can hit the exhaust pipe.
Another tip..... When I got to Kentucky to do my first flight after a long trip some of the wing clapping screws where gone. The vibrations from the long drive caused them to fall out. This is a problem on this plane because the screws are bigger them the holes you use to tighten them. So if they fall out you will need to enlarge the holes to reinstall. I asked the factory to apply some lock tight to the new kits but not sure if they did. On some of my other planes with clamp screws lock tight fixed the issue. Another way to to simply tighten them back after removing the wing or installing dowels in the clamps and then tighten them. All they need it just a little tension so during transport they dont fall out. Do not over tighten them.
On mine I made sure the connections did not have a bunch of loose wire and are secured well. When I get time I plan on going back and making all the servo connections hard point. I already ordered the parts to convert the airports to the BVM ones that you just slide the wing on and your done.
Another tip..... When I got to Kentucky to do my first flight after a long trip some of the wing clapping screws where gone. The vibrations from the long drive caused them to fall out. This is a problem on this plane because the screws are bigger them the holes you use to tighten them. So if they fall out you will need to enlarge the holes to reinstall. I asked the factory to apply some lock tight to the new kits but not sure if they did. On some of my other planes with clamp screws lock tight fixed the issue. Another way to to simply tighten them back after removing the wing or installing dowels in the clamps and then tighten them. All they need it just a little tension so during transport they dont fall out. Do not over tighten them.
On mine I made sure the connections did not have a bunch of loose wire and are secured well. When I get time I plan on going back and making all the servo connections hard point. I already ordered the parts to convert the airports to the BVM ones that you just slide the wing on and your done.
thanks
TB
08-14-2016, 02:42 PM
#261
To anyone interested,
I have the BY, Black / Yellow scheme here in the California warehouse if you are interested. Local pickup would be great as the shipping to CA was already paid and additional shipping to you would apply. I would guess $100.00 via Greyhound to just about anywhere in the US.
Regards,
Dirk
626-808-6122
I have the BY, Black / Yellow scheme here in the California warehouse if you are interested. Local pickup would be great as the shipping to CA was already paid and additional shipping to you would apply. I would guess $100.00 via Greyhound to just about anywhere in the US.
Regards,
Dirk
626-808-6122
Last edited by flejter1; 08-14-2016 at 02:57 PM.
08-14-2016, 10:57 PM
#266
Also, you may want to lower the humps that the trunnion glides over to lock the gears up, you really want to make sure that they come down. We had a couple of hung gear landings at KY Jets.
Regards,
Barry
Regards,
Barry
08-14-2016, 11:45 PM
#267
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This is not good. Gear like this should be properly tested before it is released. Once again poor product control and testing
08-15-2016, 04:18 AM
#268
Hello Patrick
A gyro is not required for this aircraft. It has no bad tendency's. I would still recommend one because all aircraft benefit from them but its not necessary.
Also I see you live in Sarasota. I am not far from you in Tampa. I fly at Ocala. When you get your bird complete I would be more then happy to help you out however I can. You could even come up to my field for the maiden.
Call me on my cell (727)421-5742
Last edited by gunradd; 08-15-2016 at 04:30 AM.
08-15-2016, 04:39 AM
#271
Had a great weekend with the T1. This weekend I got the buddy cord hooked up and let some people fly it and I also decided to let my son fly it. My son is 14 years old and has never flown a jet. First few flights he was shaky but by then end of the day he could fly it solo with no cord and got his turbine waiver 
Very proud father.
So this proved that this plane will work as a first time jet. I dont recommend installing the main gear doors if you fly off grass. With the trailing link gear they get pretty close to the grass if its not cut good.
Very proud father. So this proved that this plane will work as a first time jet. I dont recommend installing the main gear doors if you fly off grass. With the trailing link gear they get pretty close to the grass if its not cut good.
08-15-2016, 05:10 AM
#272
Yes Tony we did this on both the prototypes. This gear is not made by T1 I dont think. It looks like the same gear that's inside many other ARFs from China. For me I dont really want the gear to have a solid up lock just a down lock and be able to always come down. If you look at Barrys pic the hump that the pin moves through needs to be dremelled smooth to get rid of the point. Dont do anything to the gear down side.
