Kingtech presents the all new T1 sports jet
08-29-2016, 06:23 AM
#376
Hey Tony, Turbine pipes are very sharp on the edges, so it is common for them to stop just inside the tailcone, about 1/4-1/2 inch or so,
as far as spacing, KT states 20-30mm I myself would probably go with 3/4 -7/8 inch for that 120,, from the end of the turbine exhaust cone to the beginning of the pipe, NOT THE BELLMOUTH of the pipe, but the pipe itself,, I put a quick Reference on Digitals Pic (Hope you don't mind) to help understand, the cone needs to be in side the bellmouth.
Keep on chugging at the jet bubba, It looks fantastic.
as far as spacing, KT states 20-30mm I myself would probably go with 3/4 -7/8 inch for that 120,, from the end of the turbine exhaust cone to the beginning of the pipe, NOT THE BELLMOUTH of the pipe, but the pipe itself,, I put a quick Reference on Digitals Pic (Hope you don't mind) to help understand, the cone needs to be in side the bellmouth.
Keep on chugging at the jet bubba, It looks fantastic.
Thanks Ronnie!
TB
08-29-2016, 07:07 AM
#377
Good Day.
Regarding the nose gear door, I like the two peace setup as i can get the cylinder to the front of the side hinged door so it does not open in flight. The forward door is hinged from the front and opens with the strut like most other sport jets.
Regarding the nose gear door, I like the two peace setup as i can get the cylinder to the front of the side hinged door so it does not open in flight. The forward door is hinged from the front and opens with the strut like most other sport jets.
08-29-2016, 07:33 AM
#378
Hey Tony, Turbine pipes are very sharp on the edges, so it is common for them to stop just inside the tailcone, about 1/4-1/2 inch or so,
as far as spacing, KT states 20-30mm I myself would probably go with 3/4 -7/8 inch for that 120,, from the end of the turbine exhaust cone to the beginning of the pipe, NOT THE BELLMOUTH of the pipe, but the pipe itself,, I put a quick Reference on Digitals Pic (Hope you don't mind) to help understand, the cone needs to be in side the bellmouth.
Keep on chugging at the jet bubba, It looks fantastic.
as far as spacing, KT states 20-30mm I myself would probably go with 3/4 -7/8 inch for that 120,, from the end of the turbine exhaust cone to the beginning of the pipe, NOT THE BELLMOUTH of the pipe, but the pipe itself,, I put a quick Reference on Digitals Pic (Hope you don't mind) to help understand, the cone needs to be in side the bellmouth.
Keep on chugging at the jet bubba, It looks fantastic.
08-29-2016, 07:52 AM
#379
HAA,,, I'm surprised you didn't hear it wherever you were, it was just as loud on the taxi way as it was on the backleg of the pattern...
for those that don't Know, earlier this year I maidened my 1/6 lone star gunfighter F16 (ended up losing a few months later lord rest its soul
) at Mississippi. I had the turbine set wrong, I had it set about 1 inch from the edge of the bellmouth instead of the pipe. It made such a loud screech, I bet it could be heard 2 miles away, Horrible. After talking to Dirk,,(ONCE AGAIN EXCELLENT CUSTOMER SUPPORT FROM KINGTECH) He walked through my setup on the phone and told me where I screwed up. I moved the turbine back, set the 1 inch from the end of the pipe, more Power, and most important, the SCREAMING Banshee was gone.
Point of story, when you have a pipe with a large bellmouth, set your measurement from the end of the pipe, NOT the bellmouth. I know I am speaking from experience,,I was lucky I didn't burn my jet up...
for those that don't Know, earlier this year I maidened my 1/6 lone star gunfighter F16 (ended up losing a few months later lord rest its soul
) at Mississippi. I had the turbine set wrong, I had it set about 1 inch from the edge of the bellmouth instead of the pipe. It made such a loud screech, I bet it could be heard 2 miles away, Horrible. After talking to Dirk,,(ONCE AGAIN EXCELLENT CUSTOMER SUPPORT FROM KINGTECH) He walked through my setup on the phone and told me where I screwed up. I moved the turbine back, set the 1 inch from the end of the pipe, more Power, and most important, the SCREAMING Banshee was gone. Point of story, when you have a pipe with a large bellmouth, set your measurement from the end of the pipe, NOT the bellmouth. I know I am speaking from experience,,I was lucky I didn't burn my jet up...
Last edited by raron455; 08-29-2016 at 07:59 AM.
08-29-2016, 05:29 PM
#380
HAA,,, I'm surprised you didn't hear it wherever you were, it was just as loud on the taxi way as it was on the backleg of the pattern...
for those that don't Know, earlier this year I maidened my 1/6 lone star gunfighter F16 (ended up losing a few months later lord rest its soul) at Mississippi. I had the turbine set wrong, I had it set about 1 inch from the edge of the bellmouth instead of the pipe. It made such a loud screech, I bet it could be heard 2 miles away, Horrible. After talking to Dirk,,(ONCE AGAIN EXCELLENT CUSTOMER SUPPORT FROM KINGTECH) He walked through my setup on the phone and told me where I screwed up. I moved the turbine back, set the 1 inch from the end of the pipe, more Power, and most important, the SCREAMING Banshee was gone.
Point of story, when you have a pipe with a large bellmouth, set your measurement from the end of the pipe, NOT the bellmouth. I know I am speaking from experience,,I was lucky I didn't burn my jet up...
for those that don't Know, earlier this year I maidened my 1/6 lone star gunfighter F16 (ended up losing a few months later lord rest its soul
) at Mississippi. I had the turbine set wrong, I had it set about 1 inch from the edge of the bellmouth instead of the pipe. It made such a loud screech, I bet it could be heard 2 miles away, Horrible. After talking to Dirk,,(ONCE AGAIN EXCELLENT CUSTOMER SUPPORT FROM KINGTECH) He walked through my setup on the phone and told me where I screwed up. I moved the turbine back, set the 1 inch from the end of the pipe, more Power, and most important, the SCREAMING Banshee was gone. Point of story, when you have a pipe with a large bellmouth, set your measurement from the end of the pipe, NOT the bellmouth. I know I am speaking from experience,,I was lucky I didn't burn my jet up...
TB
08-30-2016, 11:07 AM
#381
My Feedback: (34)
For those of you on FB I have created a group with a build page dedicated to the T-One for anyone who wants to follow and provide inputs. Always love constructive criticism
https://www.facebook.com/groups/865077050197302/
https://www.facebook.com/groups/865077050197302/
08-30-2016, 04:23 PM
#385
So one thing I noticed with the frame. Normally on my builds I do my own servo setup, tray and mounting so I can control how the linkage is done. I always setup the throws so that hight rate is the full travel of the control surface and the full travel of the servo. On my ailerons with the ball link out side the hatch enough to not hit the hatch and on the furthest home on the horn for the aileron I only get about 50% of the servo travel before it binds so I have to set the servo to only move 25% each way on high rates and about 15% on low rates.
Correct me if I'm wrong but you always want full travel of the servo at the highest rate. In order to achieve this you need to move the linkage attachment point in closer to the servo. To do that you would have to cut the slot in the servo hatch for the ball link. My standard setup for scale or sports planes is to use a 1" or less horn on the servo and then make the horn on the control surface the appropriate length to achieve full travel on the servo, this is around 20 degrees to start with, on elevator I like 25 degrees minimum.
So my first thoughts are the horns on the control surfaces need to be longer. One remedy I will try when I do the elevator is to use a heavy duty clevis like I used on the noes gear steering. This will allow the servo arm to be sorter and the linkage will go into the wing. This is not my preferred linkage methods but really the only option to get full travel from the servo. If this works I will do that on the flaps and the ailerons as I had to dial down the servos to about 30% to get the throws that are needed.
Are any of you guys running into this when setting up your control surfases?
TB
Correct me if I'm wrong but you always want full travel of the servo at the highest rate. In order to achieve this you need to move the linkage attachment point in closer to the servo. To do that you would have to cut the slot in the servo hatch for the ball link. My standard setup for scale or sports planes is to use a 1" or less horn on the servo and then make the horn on the control surface the appropriate length to achieve full travel on the servo, this is around 20 degrees to start with, on elevator I like 25 degrees minimum.
So my first thoughts are the horns on the control surfaces need to be longer. One remedy I will try when I do the elevator is to use a heavy duty clevis like I used on the noes gear steering. This will allow the servo arm to be sorter and the linkage will go into the wing. This is not my preferred linkage methods but really the only option to get full travel from the servo. If this works I will do that on the flaps and the ailerons as I had to dial down the servos to about 30% to get the throws that are needed.
Are any of you guys running into this when setting up your control surfases?
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 08-30-2016 at 04:31 PM.
08-30-2016, 04:33 PM
#386
So one thing I noticed with the frame. Normally on my builds I do my own servo setup, tray and mounting so I can control how the linkage is done. I always setup the throws so that hight rate is the full travel of the control surface and the full travel of the servo. On my ailerons with the ball link out side the hatch enough to not hit the hatch and on the furthest home on the horn for the aileron I only get about 50% of the servo travel before it binds so I have to set the servo to only move 25% each way on high rates and about 15% on low rates.
Correct me if I'm wrong but you always want full travel of the servo at the highest rate. In order to achieve this you need to move the linkage attachment point in closer to the servo. To do that you would have to cut the slot in the servo hatch for the ball link. My standard setup for scale or sports planes is to use a 1" or less horn on the servo and then make the horn on the control surface the appropriate length to achieve full travel on the servo, this is around 20 degrees to start with, on elevator I like 25 degrees minimum.
So my first thoughts are the horns on the control surfaces need to be longer. One remedy I will try when I do the elevator is to use a heavy duty clevis like I used on the noes gear steering. This will allow the servo arm to be sorter and the linkage will go into the wing. This is not my preferred linkage methods but really the only option to get full travel from the servo. If this works I will do that on the flaps and the ailerons as I had to dial down the servos to about 30% to get the throws that are needed.
Are any of you guys running into this when setting up your control surfases?
TB
Correct me if I'm wrong but you always want full travel of the servo at the highest rate. In order to achieve this you need to move the linkage attachment point in closer to the servo. To do that you would have to cut the slot in the servo hatch for the ball link. My standard setup for scale or sports planes is to use a 1" or less horn on the servo and then make the horn on the control surface the appropriate length to achieve full travel on the servo, this is around 20 degrees to start with, on elevator I like 25 degrees minimum.
So my first thoughts are the horns on the control surfaces need to be longer. One remedy I will try when I do the elevator is to use a heavy duty clevis like I used on the noes gear steering. This will allow the servo arm to be sorter and the linkage will go into the wing. This is not my preferred linkage methods but really the only option to get full travel from the servo. If this works I will do that on the flaps and the ailerons as I had to dial down the servos to about 30% to get the throws that are needed.
Are any of you guys running into this when setting up your control surfases?
TB
08-30-2016, 05:53 PM
#392
My Feedback: (34)
Saw your pic gunradd. Your idea works but with the new kits the horns are doubled on the moveable surface. So unless you move the servo itself to a more center position in alignment with the horn, it makes it hard for the pushrod to make that angle to fit right on the horn on the flap or aileron. At least in my plane the way the servo sits and the arm I'm using I have to use the ball links to make a straight shot from the servo arm to the horn
08-31-2016, 06:36 AM
#399
