Kingtech presents the all new T1 sports jet
#429
20mm on Ailerons, watch your expo's as it can get pretty quick on the roll if you're not careful.
25mm on Elevators
35mm Rudder
CG 240MM from the leading edge where the wing meets the Fuselage root.
At 240mm the T-1 is more for advanced pilots, can get a little tip stalling if you get it to slow.
220-230mm is more for the everyday flyer with no bad tendencies.
Send me pictures!!!
[email protected]
#431
My Feedback: (11)
Got the rudder linkage redone using a ball link and a HD clevis on the 1" servo arm.
You have to trim about 1/8" off the bottom of the servo slot so the clevis will pass without binding.
For the redder I do not center the servo arm 90degrees from the servo as you normally do, instead I center it so it is a right angle to the link rod as it goes into the wing at an angle. This gives a better setup and you don't have to trim the length of the slot.
You have to install the clevis to the arm and move it so it will fit threw the opening to mount the servo, once mounted you just grab the clevis and pull the arm threw the slot.
With the clevis the servo arm will dip into the wing and this is needed to get the full travel of the servo.
With this setup I am getting 100% travel from the servo, no need to dial it down. The max deflection the rudder will go before it binds and stops is 37mm, this is what I have with the servo arm and linkage this way!
At the control horn I put the ball link on the bottom outside of the double horn. A ball is used as a spacer to lock it all in and a 4-40 bolt, washer and nylon nut, no flex at all. The alignment is perfect.
Heatshrink goes over the threaded rod and another over the clevis to lock it in.
I will do the elevator next.
TB
You have to trim about 1/8" off the bottom of the servo slot so the clevis will pass without binding.
For the redder I do not center the servo arm 90degrees from the servo as you normally do, instead I center it so it is a right angle to the link rod as it goes into the wing at an angle. This gives a better setup and you don't have to trim the length of the slot.
You have to install the clevis to the arm and move it so it will fit threw the opening to mount the servo, once mounted you just grab the clevis and pull the arm threw the slot.
With the clevis the servo arm will dip into the wing and this is needed to get the full travel of the servo.
With this setup I am getting 100% travel from the servo, no need to dial it down. The max deflection the rudder will go before it binds and stops is 37mm, this is what I have with the servo arm and linkage this way!
At the control horn I put the ball link on the bottom outside of the double horn. A ball is used as a spacer to lock it all in and a 4-40 bolt, washer and nylon nut, no flex at all. The alignment is perfect.
Heatshrink goes over the threaded rod and another over the clevis to lock it in.
I will do the elevator next.
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 09-03-2016 at 04:39 AM.
#432
My Feedback: (4)
Tony I always try to do that same as you in terms of using 100 percent of the servo movement available. I adjust the geometry of the horn and arm as appropriate to get the mechanical advantage favoring the servo and it also maximizes servo resolution.
Last edited by Eddie P; 09-11-2016 at 10:03 AM.
#434
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: sunshine coast, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 109
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Hi there, i know it say power range from 100-160n, but i have a k170 that needs a home and can't afford a new engine at this time, will it fly and land ok with with this engine from a grass field? Or is it too much?
cheers Brad
cheers Brad
#436
bjnginge,
The engine cone diameter is only 50mm on a K-160. The cone diameter on a K-170 is 78mm. The amount of gasses flowing from a 170, even if you tune it down, will damage the pipe. You could have Tam build you a pipe for a 170 and to length if you need to use that turbine. Make sure you lower the max RPM as those early 170's were power houses!!!
Dirk
#437
My Feedback: (11)
Progress
I'm chipping away on the control surface linkages. Got the elevators done.
I re did the right wing linkages and I am getting a much better setup on flaps and ailerons.
Only had to shave about 1/16" off the hatch slot and a little at the back end on the aileron as I went deeper into the wing to get better resolution.
All and all I am pleased with the setup and linkages. One thing they could do to improve this is to move the horns centered on the servo slot and that would solve the linkage issues.
I cut a templet for the gear door and will do that before I move to the left wing.
TB
I re did the right wing linkages and I am getting a much better setup on flaps and ailerons.
Only had to shave about 1/16" off the hatch slot and a little at the back end on the aileron as I went deeper into the wing to get better resolution.
All and all I am pleased with the setup and linkages. One thing they could do to improve this is to move the horns centered on the servo slot and that would solve the linkage issues.
I cut a templet for the gear door and will do that before I move to the left wing.
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 09-04-2016 at 09:28 AM.
#438
My Feedback: (11)
Right wing gear door is ready to fit and install.
I first cut a piece of 1/8" micro ply from the templet. Then I sanded it a little smaller then the templet and beveled the edge until it fit into the wheel well.
Then I cut the door from some CF laminate.
I glued the CF door to the ply.
I will trim it next and work on how I will mount it.
TB
I first cut a piece of 1/8" micro ply from the templet. Then I sanded it a little smaller then the templet and beveled the edge until it fit into the wheel well.
Then I cut the door from some CF laminate.
I glued the CF door to the ply.
I will trim it next and work on how I will mount it.
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 09-04-2016 at 02:36 PM.
#439
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: ogden, UT
Posts: 49
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The throws set up on our prototype demo plane was as follows:
20mm on Ailerons, watch your expo's as it can get pretty quick on the roll if you're not careful.
25mm on Elevators
35mm Rudder
CG 240MM from the leading edge where the wing meets the Fuselage root.
At 240mm the T-1 is more for advanced pilots, can get a little tip stalling if you get it to slow.
220-230mm is more for the everyday flyer with no bad tendencies.
Send me pictures!!!
[email protected]
20mm on Ailerons, watch your expo's as it can get pretty quick on the roll if you're not careful.
25mm on Elevators
35mm Rudder
CG 240MM from the leading edge where the wing meets the Fuselage root.
At 240mm the T-1 is more for advanced pilots, can get a little tip stalling if you get it to slow.
220-230mm is more for the everyday flyer with no bad tendencies.
Send me pictures!!!
[email protected]
is that CG with full UAT and empty tank
#447
My Feedback: (11)
Strut cover
Got the first gear door (strut cover) done last night.
Setup is fairly simple as I used the supplied collars to attach the mount.
The mount is aluminum angle cut down to size.
Some trimming and adjustments to fallow. I will paint them rattle can enamel once they are both done.
Two 2/56 button head screws taped into the aluminum plate, may add two more.
The gear cover is G-10, the four holes that are pre drill are over air and the gear bolts so not usful, would be best if they did not pre drill them as I drilled one hole in the center on both sides to secure it.
Right wing is pretty much done!
Today I am bench testing the K120
TB
Setup is fairly simple as I used the supplied collars to attach the mount.
The mount is aluminum angle cut down to size.
Some trimming and adjustments to fallow. I will paint them rattle can enamel once they are both done.
Two 2/56 button head screws taped into the aluminum plate, may add two more.
The gear cover is G-10, the four holes that are pre drill are over air and the gear bolts so not usful, would be best if they did not pre drill them as I drilled one hole in the center on both sides to secure it.
Right wing is pretty much done!
Today I am bench testing the K120
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 09-05-2016 at 04:51 AM.