Kingtech presents the all new T1 sports jet
09-10-2016, 06:18 PM
#526
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: sunshine coast, AUSTRALIA
Posts: 109
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09-10-2016, 06:24 PM
#527
There are more compact 4.40 rod ends available out there than the ones supplied. I used some i had from a QQ Yak 54 and with SWB 1.25 arms with the rod end set at the 1 inch position, I can get the recommended throws without the rod ends going into the slots. I did have to widen the slots a little because the arms rubbed on one side. Using rod ends{ball links} the push rods line up fine.
Scott
Scott
09-11-2016, 05:11 AM
#528
My Feedback: (34)
I'm using Savox SA-1256TG that has 277oz of torque all the way around except for the flaps which I'm using Savox SA1230SG which has about 400oz of torque. Let's see how she goes. The Savox are noisy little servos.
and I'm using the standard ball link on both ends no clevises
and I'm using the standard ball link on both ends no clevises
Last edited by Johnny9390; 09-11-2016 at 05:13 AM.
09-11-2016, 10:28 AM
#531
Got some progress on the noes wheel gear door.
I am using robart aluminum door hinges.
Threw bolted them with 2/56 button head screws.
I also glued a ply skin to firm up the door, it would not take the twist out as I hoped.
Not sure if I will cut the door even though it won't close 100% at the front.
Air cylinder has more strok then needed so I set it at max open and when it closes its still pulling.
The way I set my hinges is with the door closed I lay the hinges in to where I want them then tack them in with CA. I can always break them loos if I need to adjust. Once I like them I drill holes then bolt them.
The block for the cylinder is tacked in with epoxy and I will hit it with aero poxy later, might even run a couple screws threw.
I still need to adjust the door by shimming the hing as once it closes it locks in and binds.
The he door is removable.
TB
I am using robart aluminum door hinges.
Threw bolted them with 2/56 button head screws.
I also glued a ply skin to firm up the door, it would not take the twist out as I hoped.
Not sure if I will cut the door even though it won't close 100% at the front.
Air cylinder has more strok then needed so I set it at max open and when it closes its still pulling.
The way I set my hinges is with the door closed I lay the hinges in to where I want them then tack them in with CA. I can always break them loos if I need to adjust. Once I like them I drill holes then bolt them.
The block for the cylinder is tacked in with epoxy and I will hit it with aero poxy later, might even run a couple screws threw.
I still need to adjust the door by shimming the hing as once it closes it locks in and binds.
The he door is removable.
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 09-11-2016 at 10:51 AM.
09-11-2016, 10:49 AM
#532
Looks great Tony.
Just an FYI, I setup my door cylinder the same way and got a lot of pull flex in the fuselage where your wood mount is. I recommend putting some hard clear fuel tubing on the shaft to limit the pull from the cylinder when the door is closed.
It work very well..
Just an FYI, I setup my door cylinder the same way and got a lot of pull flex in the fuselage where your wood mount is. I recommend putting some hard clear fuel tubing on the shaft to limit the pull from the cylinder when the door is closed.
It work very well..
