Kingtech presents the all new T1 sports jet
#1951
My Feedback: (53)
No modification’s required, been flying mine for 2 seasons and so far the only weak point are the brakes which I fixed with the Xicoy LG15 and now the Retract which sometime don’t want to work had to replace both trunnions previously .....I will replace the gear with a electron set and be done with all the trouble.
#1952
Thanks for all the replies gentleman. I already checked and replaced the thread lock on the bolts that I could get to before sending it out. It's nice to see this forum getting traffic again. I am really looking forward to the build and getting this in the air. Hopefully will have this completed before the T-1 mini I have on order shows up.
Thanks,
Tone
Thanks,
Tone
#1953
Thread Starter
My Feedback: (9)
Thanks for all the replies gentleman. I already checked and replaced the thread lock on the bolts that I could get to before sending it out. It's nice to see this forum getting traffic again. I am really looking forward to the build and getting this in the air. Hopefully will have this completed before the T-1 mini I have on order shows up.
Thanks,
Tone
Thanks,
Tone
#1954
I have the OEM electric gear. I too replaced the gear controller. I have tried three others before I settled on the LGC 15, which as I understand it the same as Electron's GS-200. The LGC 15 was the first controller that really works for trouble free braking on the OEM electric gear. Then I put one in the Ultra Flash and it cured the "brake dancing" on it. I am an LGC15 believer. I also removed the permanent retraction magnets from the T1's OEM's brake hubs. Those magnets may have minimized wear, but they also cause the disk to snap out onto the electromagnets and then the brakes locked up because all of the pull it took to get the disks off the permanent magnets.
I have not had any problem with the OEM gear, other than getting the brakes to work w/o brake dancing, … Knock on wood, Now for my question: For those of you that have Electron gear, did they drop right in?
I have not had any problem with the OEM gear, other than getting the brakes to work w/o brake dancing, … Knock on wood, Now for my question: For those of you that have Electron gear, did they drop right in?
#1955
I’ve been using the electron gear right from the beginning two years ago with a GS-200. (Same as LG-15). They dropped right in, no dremel needed. They have worked flawlessly. Recently though, the touch svreen on the GS-200 stopped working so I can’t manually retract or extend the gear, but the unit works fine otherwise. I intend to get another GS-200 as soon as I find the time. I’m using the LG-15 on both of my T1 minis and they work great too with the JP gear.
#1956
On my first LGC 15, the screen would not work reliably. But, if you pressed below the pad on the screen, you could get the entry to register. However, that would not work for the exit back to the main screen because the press point was off the screen. I had to shut the unit off to exit back to the main screen. I ended up sending it back to Dirk. He sent me a new one, which worked great. Then, I saw another one out in the field that when left in the sun, it would go to a screen recalibration routine. Once the recalibration was completed, it would work again. Point being, maybe there is a screen recalibration routine??? Maybe a question to Gaspar is in order here.
#1957
I’m pretty sure there is some kind of screen calibration function, but I don’t know how to find it if I cannot get into the setup menu. I agree that some feedback from Gaspar would be helpful. I did send a message to Greg Alderman, the US rep for Electron, if I don’t hear back from him I’ll email Gaspar directly and post my findings here. -Tom
#1958
Senior Member
On my first LGC 15, the screen would not work reliably. But, if you pressed below the pad on the screen, you could get the entry to register. However, that would not work for the exit back to the main screen because the press point was off the screen. I had to shut the unit off to exit back to the main screen. I ended up sending it back to Dirk. He sent me a new one, which worked great. Then, I saw another one out in the field that when left in the sun, it would go to a screen recalibration routine. Once the recalibration was completed, it would work again. Point being, maybe there is a screen recalibration routine??? Maybe a question to Gaspar is in order here.
I am new here. I'm going to build my first Jet. I'm watching it here carefully. Waiting for an offer from a supplier in Europe. I decided for the T-One Fortune. Here is a video by Martin Pickering - setting up the Electron / GS 200. There is also a calibration of the GS 200 display. ***winter***
Youtube Search - Enter an expression - Electron retracts - video manual
"You are not allowed to post URLs until you have at least 10 posts"
#1959
My Feedback: (4)
Winter1.
If you are going with the T1 with electrons why do you need the GS200 controller. The fortune has a wide stance so you dont have to worry about the back and forth dance that narrow gear planes do (no gyro needed) and it only has a nose gear door that you have to worry about. The base controller they offer will operate the three gear and give you proportional braking.
Patrick
If you are going with the T1 with electrons why do you need the GS200 controller. The fortune has a wide stance so you dont have to worry about the back and forth dance that narrow gear planes do (no gyro needed) and it only has a nose gear door that you have to worry about. The base controller they offer will operate the three gear and give you proportional braking.
Patrick
#1960
Senior Member
Winter1.
If you are going with the T1 with electrons why do you need the GS200 controller. The fortune has a wide stance so you dont have to worry about the back and forth dance that narrow gear planes do (no gyro needed) and it only has a nose gear door that you have to worry about. The base controller they offer will operate the three gear and give you proportional braking.
Patrick
If you are going with the T1 with electrons why do you need the GS200 controller. The fortune has a wide stance so you dont have to worry about the back and forth dance that narrow gear planes do (no gyro needed) and it only has a nose gear door that you have to worry about. The base controller they offer will operate the three gear and give you proportional braking.
Patrick
I want to fit the T1 retractable landing gear JP + LGC15 or Electron + GS200. I saw that some guys had problems setting the brakes. The wheels did not brake symmetrically. The plane was like a snake. ***winter***
#1961
My Feedback: (53)
Winter1.
If you are going with the T1 with electrons why do you need the GS200 controller. The fortune has a wide stance so you dont have to worry about the back and forth dance that narrow gear planes do (no gyro needed) and it only has a nose gear door that you have to worry about. The base controller they offer will operate the three gear and give you proportional braking.
Patrick
If you are going with the T1 with electrons why do you need the GS200 controller. The fortune has a wide stance so you dont have to worry about the back and forth dance that narrow gear planes do (no gyro needed) and it only has a nose gear door that you have to worry about. The base controller they offer will operate the three gear and give you proportional braking.
Patrick
#1963
I calibrated my GS-200 and that fixed the screen issues I was having, big thanks to Greg Alderman for letting me know how to initiate the calibration process. For those of you that don't know, you simply hold down pressure on the center of the screen when you power up and it will go into calibration mode.
Whether or not a brake gyro is needed depends a lot on where you fly your jet, if you fly off grass and have a fairly big landing area then the brake gyro is not needed so much. If you fly off of paved surface that requires strong braking then the brake gyro can prevent damage to your wings in that if the brakes cause the aircraft to yaw the wheels will end up 90 degrees to the direction of travel and cause the landing gear mounts in the wing to crack...ask me how I know this I fly off a 300' asphalt strip, I've gotten pretty proficient at spot landings over the years that require only minimal braking, but every once in a while I have to really get on the brakes, and when I do it's really nice to see the jet brake evenly without worrying about damaging anything. Someone mentioned it above, this unit is less than $200 delivered to your house, compared to $1200 for a wing set I think it's a bargain, I use these unit's in both of my T1 minis as well as my T1 and would not consider any other brake controller.
Whether or not a brake gyro is needed depends a lot on where you fly your jet, if you fly off grass and have a fairly big landing area then the brake gyro is not needed so much. If you fly off of paved surface that requires strong braking then the brake gyro can prevent damage to your wings in that if the brakes cause the aircraft to yaw the wheels will end up 90 degrees to the direction of travel and cause the landing gear mounts in the wing to crack...ask me how I know this I fly off a 300' asphalt strip, I've gotten pretty proficient at spot landings over the years that require only minimal braking, but every once in a while I have to really get on the brakes, and when I do it's really nice to see the jet brake evenly without worrying about damaging anything. Someone mentioned it above, this unit is less than $200 delivered to your house, compared to $1200 for a wing set I think it's a bargain, I use these unit's in both of my T1 minis as well as my T1 and would not consider any other brake controller.
#1964
I question for the T-1 veterans. I am in the process of building my T-1 and need to mount the Kevlar fuel tank. I would assume that the goal is to get the tank the furthest back and as close as possible to the turbine and wing tube as possible. Therefore, the smallest cg change possible as the tank empties. Is this the case?
Thanks,
Tone
Thanks,
Tone
#1965
My Feedback: (6)
I question for the T-1 veterans. I am in the process of building my T-1 and need to mount the Kevlar fuel tank. I would assume that the goal is to get the tank the furthest back and as close as possible to the turbine and wing tube as possible. Therefore, the smallest cg change possible as the tank empties. Is this the case?
Thanks,
Tone
Thanks,
Tone
#1966
My Feedback: (53)
I question for the T-1 veterans. I am in the process of building my T-1 and need to mount the Kevlar fuel tank. I would assume that the goal is to get the tank the furthest back and as close as possible to the turbine and wing tube as possible. Therefore, the smallest cg change possible as the tank empties. Is this the case?
Thanks,
Tone
Thanks,
Tone
#1969
Apparently, ... the T-1's CG allowance is fairly wide. I have the back of my tank about 2.5" in front of the K160's starter motor. It flies very well whether it is full or nearly empty on fuel. Due to a full-scale plane coming into the airspace right after I took off, I just landed the T-1 last week with both the fuel and smoke tank full of fuel. All the extra weight did not make a bit of difference. When flying inverted, it does not seem to make a bit of difference whether the tanks are full or nearly empty. So, apparently it does not seem to matter whether the tank is set back close to the turbine or forward a couple inches.
#1972
My Feedback: (102)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Abilene,
TX
Posts: 142
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Smoke nozzle
Hey guys,
I'm trying to set up smoke and need some advise. I bought the 36” nozzle from pacific and followed others suggestions by running the nozzle between the 2 walls of the pipe tunnel.
Does the nozzle just rest in the pipe tunnel? Currently it’s mounted at the turbine but can vibrate around in the tunnel and at the exit.
Do the pics look right?
Thanks,
Craig