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Maj. Woody's Ultra Flash

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Old 05-15-2018, 02:49 PM
  #676  
MaJ. Woody
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Old 05-15-2018, 02:53 PM
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Having trouble uploading photos
Old 05-15-2018, 02:57 PM
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Old 05-15-2018, 03:03 PM
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Old 05-15-2018, 03:06 PM
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Old 05-15-2018, 03:11 PM
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Old 05-15-2018, 03:28 PM
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Old 05-15-2018, 03:31 PM
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Ready for KY..
Old 05-15-2018, 03:34 PM
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That's nex

t years build in the Box. My Skymaster 1/5 F-86! I am so burned out from building right now I cant even think about it!
Old 05-15-2018, 03:37 PM
  #685  
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The Fly Navy Flash came in 1/2 pound heavier than the Aggressor. Aggressor 25.5 Pounds, Fly Navy 26 Pounds
Old 05-15-2018, 03:40 PM
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When I went to bolt on the stab, I realized the Airex Block was crushed. I had to grind this out and replace it with Good Old Hard Plywood Block.
Old 05-15-2018, 03:42 PM
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I have tons more build and install pics but I am ready to be done with building and build threads! I want to go fly!! See you there!!
Old 05-15-2018, 05:01 PM
  #688  
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Originally Posted by MaJ. Woody
... I have performed multiple testes to pull the 4-40 rod out of the ball link and I cant. I have even began to deform the metal ball link trying....
A little too much talk about pulling rods, balls and testes, Dom .
See you at Titusville.
Old 05-15-2018, 05:24 PM
  #689  
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OMG that is some funny $h1t!
Old 05-17-2018, 03:37 AM
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Did you pose the question to c-arf as to why the finish & completeness was so bad ?
We see QA stickers ???
Old 05-17-2018, 04:40 AM
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The hinges on my elevators were coming apart. So I had to buy a new stab. However, they did a great job on the paint.
Old 05-17-2018, 06:09 AM
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Were the hinges delaminating at the live hinge line ?
Old 05-17-2018, 07:22 AM
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Hi Maj,
I have really screwed up the rudder servo install not knowing how to accurately cut the slot in the fin, ended with big rectangular cutout which is ugly and now need to figure out how to best cover? Also the standard plastic servo arms do not extend out enough, and can't use metal servo arms since screw and nuts will not allow full movement, on top of that no where in the manual it shows the best way to locate and make the slot, and not even a word about how much rudder travel is standard, just says max. Can you provide me some feedback on what rudder setup, servo arms, sulivan links or ???
any ideas on how to fix my big ugly open slot?
Tx
jason
Old 05-17-2018, 10:23 AM
  #694  
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Originally Posted by scoeroo
Were the hinges delaminating at the live hinge line ?
Hinges were cracking along hinge line allowing up and down movement at the hinge line such that the skin on the top of the stab was starting to rip forward. Also, you could see a lamp light thru the hinge lines for a at least an inch on both ends of one elevator and on one end of the other. According to CARF, possibly could use thin CA to stop the tearing. But the thru cracks on the hinge indicated that the stab needed to be replaced.

To much speed involved to risk flutter and a resulting crash. Better to drop $300 on a new stab. Bought two, figuring this may be a recurring problem.
Old 05-17-2018, 11:42 AM
  #695  
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Originally Posted by F4dar
Hi Maj,
I have really screwed up the rudder servo install not knowing how to accurately cut the slot in the fin, ended with big rectangular cutout which is ugly and now need to figure out how to best cover? Also the standard plastic servo arms do not extend out enough, and can't use metal servo arms since screw and nuts will not allow full movement, on top of that no where in the manual it shows the best way to locate and make the slot, and not even a word about how much rudder travel is standard, just says max. Can you provide me some feedback on what rudder setup, servo arms, sulivan links or ???
any ideas on how to fix my big ugly open slot?
Tx
jason
Can you provide a pic of how it looks now?

To get a proper opening takes time and patients with a dremel tool. What I did was test fit the servo with the arm on but parallel with the fuse. Once in place I moved the arm out until it touched the inside wall. I then used and ultra bright light shined on the inside of fuse so I can see from the outside basically where the arm is at and mark on the outside appropriately. Then just take your time with the dremel making the line horizontal with the fuselage as possible.

Theres many ways to fix or hide the accident. There's a cover that came with the kit, is your hole too big for that to hide it?
Old 05-17-2018, 12:19 PM
  #696  
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Default Try using a SWB metal servo arm

They make arms with a nylon insert that allows a clevis to be used with a metal arm . I have them on almost all servos on my ultra flash and have had them on there for hundreds of flights. They work great !

Bob Neal
Old 05-17-2018, 04:51 PM
  #697  
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Thanks Guys,
I could use the cover but i really prefer to fix the slot under it. Which length SWB arm should i order.
tx
jason
Old 05-17-2018, 04:52 PM
  #698  
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Default pictures of my ugly slot


Old 05-19-2018, 01:36 PM
  #699  
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Originally Posted by MaJ. Woody





My aggressor Flash uses JR 8411 servos with JR Heavy Duty Servo Arms. The Fly Navy Flash uses Futaba 9156 Servos with Aluminum Servo Arms. The included Clevises were too sloppy for the thinner Futaba arms and although I could have shimmed them, I chose to use Sullivan 4-40 Golden Clevises. In order to use those, I had to use 4-40 rod instead of the included 3mm Rod. What I did was use Sullivan Stainless Steel 4-40 rod with KS Brass tube Silver soldered over the top. The 4-40 rod was threaded into the plastic ball link and then removed, coated with Epoxy, the ball link hole filled with epoxy and then screwed back together. Then whole assembly is rock solid. My only concern is that the hole in the ball link was a bit large for the 4-40 rod when you consider the pilot hole for a 4-40 thread should be made with a #43 drill. I have performed multiple testes to pull the 4-40 rod out of the ball link and I cant. I have even began to deform the metal ball link trying. The final painted product has a nice finished look.
I finally got my test pushrod to fail. The hole in the CARF ball link is just too big for the 4-40 rod. I am going to switch out the CARF ball links for Dubro Monster Links. This will require maching the right sized stand offs and shiming the 4-40 bolt where is passes throgh the 3mm holes in the control horns. Finally I will need to paint the new ball links. I am guessing I have about 10 or so hours woth of work to retro fit all the ball links. At least I dont need to redo all the pushrods!
Old 05-19-2018, 01:39 PM
  #700  
MaJ. Woody
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Originally Posted by scoeroo
Did you pose the question to c-arf as to why the finish & completeness was so bad ?
We see QA stickers ???
Those QA stickers are a joke! No I did not Contact CARF. I waited so long for the first kit which was smashed by DHL, waited even loger for the replacement and could wait no more. I have to wonder how much better the first kit may have been. Of course it could have been worse. Any way, I have it looking good now.


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