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Maj. Woody's Ultra Flash

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Old 10-29-2016, 09:11 AM
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Hi Guys!
I have decided to do a build thread on my new CARF Ultra Flash. I know the last thing we need is another thread on this awesome jet. There will be nothing ground breaking here that has not been covered in the many other excellent threads here on RCU. In fact I have combed each of those and asked for advice. Some of those ideas will be incorporated into my build along with my own tried an true ways of doing things. Bottom line......I like building and doing these Build Threads so there
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Old 10-29-2016, 09:13 AM
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Before I get started I want to give a shout out to Dreamworks and Linda who has been so unbelievable in her support and service as I have begun to collect all the bits and pieces for this project. Thank you Linda!
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Old 10-29-2016, 09:18 AM
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Guidance for my Ultra Flash will come from my trusty old Futaba 12Z and R6014 HS receiver. Thanks to my friend Steve Mosely who let me borrow one of his prop jobs to test this receiver in!
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Old 10-29-2016, 09:23 AM
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Here is a look at some of the goodies I bought for this jet. I am excited about my new Jersey Modeler to with variable control fuel pump!
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Old 10-29-2016, 09:33 AM
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I am using JR 8411 servos on every flight surface along with a Hitec 645MG for steering, Hitec 225MG for brakes and Hitec 225BB for retracts.

In an attempt to overcome Infant Mortality, I have put each servo through a series of runs using my servo Xciter Jr. I bough this on line for $24.95 shipped right from the manufacture who offers a discount for AMA Members.

I put a total of 60 minutes on each servo over 6 ten minute runs with a 10 minute cool down between each run. During the test you should be present and actively listening for any odd sounds such as the servo skipping. Also watch the servo wheel closely to verify smooth operation with no skipping or dead spots. Here were my runs:

1. Medium
2. Fast (really heats things up)
3. Slow
4. Medium
5. Medium
6. Slow
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Old 10-29-2016, 09:42 AM
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Here is my power setup. I am using a Duratrax 3S 5000 Lipo for my ECU Battery and two Thunder Power 2S 2800 Prolite RX Lipo packs for the receiver. The two RX packs will be passed through a Powerbox Sensor Switch which is two independent switches in one that regulates the Voltage to 5.9V. This electronic switch has some other really neat features and offers total redundancy.
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Old 10-29-2016, 09:52 AM
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I am very anal about my batteries and always do formation charges (for Nimh) or Cycling of packs and record the readings on my battery log. I believe It is important to establish a base line of a packs capacity and internal resistance so that you can monitor the health of your batteries and spot a problem before you risk losing your model. I also check my voltage before each flight. Additionally I pay attention to how much charge each battery takes and this allows me to understand how many Mah I am using per flight. If you are this intimate with your batteries, you should spot trouble a long way out. Proper storage is important also so based on your batteries chemistry there will be different requirements. To help me understand my batteries Internal resistance (IR) I purchased one of these units shown below. Here is a link to a thread that tells all about what this unit is and what it does. This read was over my head for the most part but I did get help from the experts to understand enough about how to use this for my intended purpose.

https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/show....php?t=1323465
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Old 10-29-2016, 09:56 AM
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Some other details about my build:

Ultra Flash: On order. Should be here by the end of the year. Thunderbird's color scheme.

Landing Gear: Dreamworks Prolinks along with Robart Variable Rate Valve, UP6 Brake Valve, BVM Fill Valves, Tamjets Fail-safe

Turbine: Jet Central Cheetah SE

Fuel Tanks: Jet Tech Kevlar Main and Saddles

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Old 10-29-2016, 10:10 AM
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Ok more about the fuel system. I choose to use Jet Tech Kevlar Tanks. These tanks are incredibly Strong! I opted to use a High Flow Fuel System so all the fittings have a 3/16 ID. I am also running a MAP High Flow UAT. Gary from Jet Tech was great to deal with and had my tanks to me in no time.

My configuration is Main and saddle tanks. I did not like the idea of having to disconnect the fuel lines each time I removed the wing so the saddles were a nice solution for me. I opted for the narrowed saddle tanks since I am planning a full bypass installation.

Capacities are as follows:

Main:76 oz
Saddles: 50 oz (25oz each)
Hopper: I am [planning for a 8-12 ounce hopper tank
UAT: 4 oz

I am estimating that there may be up to 12 ounces of unusable fuel in the main tank so the hopper will compensate for that while protecting me from any air introduced from the main tank. I also wont count the fuel in the UAT so I am realistically looking at a total of 138 oz of fuel with 126 oz usable.

The Tanks will be plumbed as follows: Saddles to Main, Main to Hopper, Hopper to UAT. With those huge 3/16 fittings and two vent lines plumbed in the main tank I will have no restrictions for my thirsty Cheetah! That Strong Kevlar construction, 3/16 fittings and Variable rate Jersey Modeler should guarantee I don't burst a tank during fueling either.

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Old 10-29-2016, 10:14 AM
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Ok Time to assemble the tanks. Here you can see the tanks, Clunks and some SS Tubing.
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Old 10-29-2016, 10:16 AM
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A Note on the clunks. Several modelers here recommended Gary's (Jet Tech) clunks. Boy am I glad I took their advice. These things are huge! They weigh a whopping 1.25 oz each and had no problem moving that massive 3/16 ID Tygon around all corners of the tanks.
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Old 10-29-2016, 10:20 AM
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The first order of business was to loctite the brass fittings to the aluminum stoppers. Tighten these down but don't get carried away and strip the threads.
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Old 10-29-2016, 10:28 AM
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Ok Lets assemble the saddle tanks. Check out that massive 3/16 ID Tygon Tubing! I was worried that the clunks would not move these freely around the tank. Man was I wrong! I measured the lines carefully to achieve a distance of around 1/4" or so from the back of the tank. Be sure to safety wire each connection.
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Old 10-29-2016, 10:32 AM
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I applied a bit of blue loctite to the stopper before screwing it together. Again be careful to tighten the stopper securely but don't get carried away. The last thing you want to do it break the glue joint inside the tank! Once the stopper was secured, I applied a bead of Goop between the stopper and the tank to prevent the stopper from loosening.
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Old 10-29-2016, 10:40 AM
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Now on to the main tank. The main tank has a baffle mid way back to prevent fuel from sloshing around. Because of this a special clunk line must be fashioned that passes through the fiberglass baffle. More learning from the other Flash threads inspired me to use a Stainless Steel Tube in my clunk line.

I decided that the SS Tube should be 2.5" long and cut it accordingly. The wall thickness of this tube was rather thick so I put in my lathe and bored it out with a #23 drill bit. You can see the before and after pictures. While in the lathe I sanded the outside of the tube with 220 grit sand paper in perpetration of the next steps.
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Old 10-29-2016, 10:48 AM
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I needed to create some barbs to help secure the Tygon so I purchased some brass rod. I selected a drill bit smaller in diameter than the 3/16 SS Tube and wound the brass rod around it. This produced a nice coil smaller than the SS Tube. I then cut the coil to length and inserted it on the SS Tube. because I wound the coil with a much smaller drill bit, the coil fit snugly on the 3/16 SS Tube. I used silver solder to solder the brass rod to the SS Tube. The finished product results in a barbed SS Clunk Line Joiner.
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Old 10-29-2016, 10:52 AM
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You will need to measure very carefully when assembling the clunk line. You want the center of the SS Tube directly on the baffle. Once you have your measurements cut the Tygon to length and be sure to safety wire everything.
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Old 10-29-2016, 10:55 AM
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Assemble the stopper with blue Loctite and Goop as described above. Thanks to Gary's awesome clunks, my clunk line can reach all corners of the tank with ease!
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Old 10-29-2016, 11:00 AM
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Here are my completed tanks shown with the MAP High Flow UAT and the Dreamworks High Flow series Startup Overflow Vent System.

http://www.dreamworksrc.com/catalog/...gh-Flow-Series
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Old 10-29-2016, 11:15 AM
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always nice to see build threads, im personally going nuts without having something to build or work on. I like JMP stuff but due to the cost I use BVMs hi-flow stuff same hi-flow but better for my budget.
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Old 10-29-2016, 11:40 AM
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I agree. It's going to be a long winter and the UF builds fast!
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Old 10-29-2016, 01:27 PM
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Dom,
Your build threads are always a great contribution to this forum. Usually more thorough than most assembly manuals.
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Old 10-29-2016, 02:32 PM
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Thanks for the kind words Marty!
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Old 10-29-2016, 02:52 PM
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Answer your phone woodster !!
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Old 10-30-2016, 05:44 PM
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Never to many build threads I say the more the better. It's always nice to see how everyone is doing there build. One can get many ideas from build threads and balance what they want to do based on that. Like me Dominic is super crazy in a good way about his builds. EVERYTHING must be perfect or as close to that as we can get. Taking your time insures a better chance of success on a test flight and I know Dominic's will be built great. We look forward to seeing it in the spring fly for sure. Keep posting all your pictures we all like seeing them.




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