New Y/A F/A-18 Hornet Build
#53
Thread Starter
Hello,
What (if any) reinforcements did you guys make to the plane? Over the years, I've seen several but most of them were unnecessary or of no benefit for the added weight. I'm curious about landing gear reinforcements you guys might have done.
What (if any) reinforcements did you guys make to the plane? Over the years, I've seen several but most of them were unnecessary or of no benefit for the added weight. I'm curious about landing gear reinforcements you guys might have done.
#54
Thread Starter
Sean,
GREAT video! I tried that 'Icing' stuff before, but I found it gummy. I think I see why.... compared to you, I used WAY too much catalyst. With the proper amount of catalyst, how do you find it sands?
If you're using a bar sander, how do you keep the end of it from digging into your wing skin? Are you doing all of this post-glassing? Thanks for doing the video, and thanks in advance for your answers.
GREAT video! I tried that 'Icing' stuff before, but I found it gummy. I think I see why.... compared to you, I used WAY too much catalyst. With the proper amount of catalyst, how do you find it sands?
If you're using a bar sander, how do you keep the end of it from digging into your wing skin? Are you doing all of this post-glassing? Thanks for doing the video, and thanks in advance for your answers.
#55
My Feedback: (1)
Great video, I have also had great success using aero poxy on hatch joints, fuse joints where there is not much room for filler. The epoxy is much less likely to chip out on parts that are removed often. Use the same release system as the other filler. Yes it's harder to sand but you have lots of time to clean up the joint before it hardens.
#56
My Feedback: (67)
Great video, I have also had great success using aero poxy on hatch joints, fuse joints where there is not much room for filler. The epoxy is much less likely to chip out on parts that are removed often. Use the same release system as the other filler. Yes it's harder to sand but you have lots of time to clean up the joint before it hardens.
#57
My Feedback: (67)
Sean,
GREAT video! I tried that 'Icing' stuff before, but I found it gummy. I think I see why.... compared to you, I used WAY too much catalyst. With the proper amount of catalyst, how do you find it sands?
If you're using a bar sander, how do you keep the end of it from digging into your wing skin? Are you doing all of this post-glassing? Thanks for doing the video, and thanks in advance for your answers.
GREAT video! I tried that 'Icing' stuff before, but I found it gummy. I think I see why.... compared to you, I used WAY too much catalyst. With the proper amount of catalyst, how do you find it sands?
If you're using a bar sander, how do you keep the end of it from digging into your wing skin? Are you doing all of this post-glassing? Thanks for doing the video, and thanks in advance for your answers.
#58
My Feedback: (67)
My hornet is still under construction and I had to put it aside last year while we moved, but am starting to get back to it now so your thread is well timed.
A few of the changes I've made to mine so far (haven't started on the wings yet other than to install the spars) are:
- carbon fiber on main formers and main gear plates
- G-10 reinforcing plates around the spar pockets in the fuse
- flipped the elevator horns so access holes to remove stabs are on the bottom of the fuse
- relocated elevator servos to the rear of the fuse near the stabs
- made a removable nose cone
- nose steering is now direct pull-pull, no cables
- opened the area between the fuse and inlets like the full size
- all hatch latches are hidden
- moved fuel cells to reduce CG shift as fuel is consumed
- made fins removable, rudders stay with fins and are driven by hidden torque linkage at base of rudder
- constructed scale boarding ladder
- adding all my 'strictlyscale' integrated and external scale details
- added functional canopy and speed brake, still need to detail these.
I think that's most of the changes so far, have lots of other details in mind and most have already been created like scale sidewinders, AIS pods, scale landing gear details, lights, etc etc. is there any end to this madness!? haha.
A few of the changes I've made to mine so far (haven't started on the wings yet other than to install the spars) are:
- carbon fiber on main formers and main gear plates
- G-10 reinforcing plates around the spar pockets in the fuse
- flipped the elevator horns so access holes to remove stabs are on the bottom of the fuse
- relocated elevator servos to the rear of the fuse near the stabs
- made a removable nose cone
- nose steering is now direct pull-pull, no cables
- opened the area between the fuse and inlets like the full size
- all hatch latches are hidden
- moved fuel cells to reduce CG shift as fuel is consumed
- made fins removable, rudders stay with fins and are driven by hidden torque linkage at base of rudder
- constructed scale boarding ladder
- adding all my 'strictlyscale' integrated and external scale details
- added functional canopy and speed brake, still need to detail these.
I think that's most of the changes so far, have lots of other details in mind and most have already been created like scale sidewinders, AIS pods, scale landing gear details, lights, etc etc. is there any end to this madness!? haha.
#59
Thread Starter
Sean
Thanks. The bottom access on the stabs is something I wish I'd done. I also reinforced the spar receivers (captured them) though I once witnessed a crash of one these that left little doubt that the spar system is a highly unlikely failure point, even with twin P-120s on board. As for your other changes, were they for safety/functionality concerns? Particularly moving the servos?
Are you planning to use the scale bottom hinging on the wings? If so, how much concern do you have about either the resulting shortness of the aileron horn or compromised trailing edge cap (if the horn is of decent length)?
Thanks. The bottom access on the stabs is something I wish I'd done. I also reinforced the spar receivers (captured them) though I once witnessed a crash of one these that left little doubt that the spar system is a highly unlikely failure point, even with twin P-120s on board. As for your other changes, were they for safety/functionality concerns? Particularly moving the servos?
Are you planning to use the scale bottom hinging on the wings? If so, how much concern do you have about either the resulting shortness of the aileron horn or compromised trailing edge cap (if the horn is of decent length)?
#60
Thread Starter
Sean,
In the above post, what I mean by the compromised TE cap is what's in this pic of the ARF wing. I flew that bird on twin P-80SEs, so it held together ok, but I'm curious if you guys agree the overall wing structure (including the carbon underneath the balsa) is strong enough that the cutout in the TE is inconsequential.
If you look near the hinge and horn, you can see the groove I'm talking about that penetrates the TE pretty significantly.
In the above post, what I mean by the compromised TE cap is what's in this pic of the ARF wing. I flew that bird on twin P-80SEs, so it held together ok, but I'm curious if you guys agree the overall wing structure (including the carbon underneath the balsa) is strong enough that the cutout in the TE is inconsequential.
If you look near the hinge and horn, you can see the groove I'm talking about that penetrates the TE pretty significantly.
Last edited by Shaun Evans; 02-02-2017 at 09:49 AM.
#61
My Feedback: (21)
My hornet is still under construction and I had to put it aside last year while we moved, but am starting to get back to it now so your thread is well timed.
A few of the changes I've made to mine so far (haven't started on the wings yet other than to install the spars) are:
- carbon fiber on main formers and main gear plates
- G-10 reinforcing plates around the spar pockets in the fuse
- flipped the elevator horns so access holes to remove stabs are on the bottom of the fuse
- relocated elevator servos to the rear of the fuse near the stabs
- made a removable nose cone
- nose steering is now direct pull-pull, no cables
- opened the area between the fuse and inlets like the full size
- all hatch latches are hidden
- moved fuel cells to reduce CG shift as fuel is consumed
- made fins removable, rudders stay with fins and are driven by hidden torque linkage at base of rudder
- constructed scale boarding ladder
- adding all my 'strictlyscale' integrated and external scale details
- added functional canopy and speed brake, still need to detail these.
I think that's most of the changes so far, have lots of other details in mind and most have already been created like scale sidewinders, AIS pods, scale landing gear details, lights, etc etc. is there any end to this madness!? haha.
A few of the changes I've made to mine so far (haven't started on the wings yet other than to install the spars) are:
- carbon fiber on main formers and main gear plates
- G-10 reinforcing plates around the spar pockets in the fuse
- flipped the elevator horns so access holes to remove stabs are on the bottom of the fuse
- relocated elevator servos to the rear of the fuse near the stabs
- made a removable nose cone
- nose steering is now direct pull-pull, no cables
- opened the area between the fuse and inlets like the full size
- all hatch latches are hidden
- moved fuel cells to reduce CG shift as fuel is consumed
- made fins removable, rudders stay with fins and are driven by hidden torque linkage at base of rudder
- constructed scale boarding ladder
- adding all my 'strictlyscale' integrated and external scale details
- added functional canopy and speed brake, still need to detail these.
I think that's most of the changes so far, have lots of other details in mind and most have already been created like scale sidewinders, AIS pods, scale landing gear details, lights, etc etc. is there any end to this madness!? haha.
Thanks
#62
Thread Starter
Buck,
You took the words right outta my mouth. I've seen the pics on the other site, and it's pretty cool. Sean, if you had time to give a parts list, I'd sure like to do it how you did
#63
My Feedback: (24)
I did direct push-push with no cables, video is using an almost dead 4.8 nicad, so it's slower than normal.
Mine twin bug's about as old school as it gets, one of Jack Tse's first planes. Roughly 30 year old plane, most of them sitting on a shelf, in Yellow's warehouse. Currently getting a full rebuild/update with a hopeful return to the skys this summer
I too am interested in a direct pull pull with no cables. I did a single link setup on a Y/A P-38 by putting a slight bend in one arm, and locating servo close to, and lower than steering arm. Lots of flights, steering is super tight, and never any issues
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_khIISQMmO0
Mine twin bug's about as old school as it gets, one of Jack Tse's first planes. Roughly 30 year old plane, most of them sitting on a shelf, in Yellow's warehouse. Currently getting a full rebuild/update with a hopeful return to the skys this summer
I too am interested in a direct pull pull with no cables. I did a single link setup on a Y/A P-38 by putting a slight bend in one arm, and locating servo close to, and lower than steering arm. Lots of flights, steering is super tight, and never any issues
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_khIISQMmO0
Last edited by 70 ragtop; 02-02-2017 at 03:43 PM.
#64
Thread Starter
I did direct push-push with no cables, video is using an almost dead 4.8 nicad, so it's slower than normal.
Mine twin bug's about as old school as it gets, one of Jack Tse's first planes. Roughly 30 year old plane, most of them sitting on a shelf, in Yellow's warehouse. Currently getting a full rebuild/update with a hopeful return to the skys this summer
I too am interested in a direct pull pull with no cables. I did a single link setup on a Y/A P-38 by putting a slight bend in one arm, and locating servo close to, and lower than steering arm. Lots of flights, steering is super tight, and never any issues
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_khIISQMmO0
Mine twin bug's about as old school as it gets, one of Jack Tse's first planes. Roughly 30 year old plane, most of them sitting on a shelf, in Yellow's warehouse. Currently getting a full rebuild/update with a hopeful return to the skys this summer
I too am interested in a direct pull pull with no cables. I did a single link setup on a Y/A P-38 by putting a slight bend in one arm, and locating servo close to, and lower than steering arm. Lots of flights, steering is super tight, and never any issues
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_khIISQMmO0
Nice!
What's the hardware?
#65
My Feedback: (24)
Hi Shaun
Not my idea, I saw it in someone's video, and thought it was pretty slick. I used Dupro threaded couplers that I had, and some 4-40 rods. The 4-40 rod just bottoms out in the coupler, essentially making it a "push" rod. It floats during retract/extension cycle.
Can do the same thing by cutting any size control rod, slipping a piece of tubing over one half and soldering (or gluing). The other half is free to slide in and out of the tube. I am going to replace these couplers as I would like the female side to be deeper. It is possible that the floating rod can come out if you apply rudder during the extension cycle. I set my plane up so steering is neutral/inactive with gear up, which happens as soon as you hit the switch.
On the extend cycle, if you had heavy rudder (for whatever reason) and select the gear down, steering servo will drive, and one of the floating rods could come out of the coupler as the gear swings. Unlikely in flight, but it did happen on the bench, and that's enough for me.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD924&P=7
Not my idea, I saw it in someone's video, and thought it was pretty slick. I used Dupro threaded couplers that I had, and some 4-40 rods. The 4-40 rod just bottoms out in the coupler, essentially making it a "push" rod. It floats during retract/extension cycle.
Can do the same thing by cutting any size control rod, slipping a piece of tubing over one half and soldering (or gluing). The other half is free to slide in and out of the tube. I am going to replace these couplers as I would like the female side to be deeper. It is possible that the floating rod can come out if you apply rudder during the extension cycle. I set my plane up so steering is neutral/inactive with gear up, which happens as soon as you hit the switch.
On the extend cycle, if you had heavy rudder (for whatever reason) and select the gear down, steering servo will drive, and one of the floating rods could come out of the coupler as the gear swings. Unlikely in flight, but it did happen on the bench, and that's enough for me.
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXD924&P=7
#66
Thread Starter
Howdy.
From the department of Lessons Learned: You know how sometimes when you eyeball something and you're SURE it's correct, but then you put an instrument to it and you don't know who to believe? Just as I'm about to tack glue the gear support formers in place, my 11-year-old says, "That looks crooked." I put a square in there and sure enough, I was about to glue something in that wasn't anywhere near straight. Once the square went in, suddenly my eyes agreed. Anyway, now they're good-to-go.
From the department of Lessons Learned: You know how sometimes when you eyeball something and you're SURE it's correct, but then you put an instrument to it and you don't know who to believe? Just as I'm about to tack glue the gear support formers in place, my 11-year-old says, "That looks crooked." I put a square in there and sure enough, I was about to glue something in that wasn't anywhere near straight. Once the square went in, suddenly my eyes agreed. Anyway, now they're good-to-go.
#67
Thread Starter
Hello,
All the landing gear mounts are now hysoled in and solid. There's a little bit of camber trim on the starboard strut I'll need to shim, but otherwise good. The first time these birds are standing on their legs is one of those milestones in a build, right?
All the landing gear mounts are now hysoled in and solid. There's a little bit of camber trim on the starboard strut I'll need to shim, but otherwise good. The first time these birds are standing on their legs is one of those milestones in a build, right?
#69
Thread Starter
#71
not just fej, I spent a good hour getting rid of gobs of epoxy in my SM F-14, to think about it the only jet I havent done that(so far) was my Rebel Pro. Not sure they understand just because you add more glue it doesnt make it stronger Clean glue lines can save you a bit of weight end the end, plus HP-20 hysol isnt cheap! LOL
#75
Thread Starter
Hello,
So I'm paying for a minor/major screw-up. The last batch of these kits came without the wheel wells cut out. When I dremel-cut them out, I went way too close to the edge and consequently, there's not enough lip to keep the doors from falling through. Duh. It's kinda like gluing something in upside-down where you know better, but somehow watch yourself stand and do it wrong anyway.....
I scuffed up some BVM poly-ply with 80 grit and glued it in strategic places to create a new lip. I've never had very good luck with that stuff sticking to anything long-term, but I scuffed up both sides pretty well and acetoned it. We'll see...
I also got the vertical nose-gear former in and hysoled on both sides. It's curing with some plastic to keep the removable part from sticking. I'll start on the removable nose cone later today.
So I'm paying for a minor/major screw-up. The last batch of these kits came without the wheel wells cut out. When I dremel-cut them out, I went way too close to the edge and consequently, there's not enough lip to keep the doors from falling through. Duh. It's kinda like gluing something in upside-down where you know better, but somehow watch yourself stand and do it wrong anyway.....
I scuffed up some BVM poly-ply with 80 grit and glued it in strategic places to create a new lip. I've never had very good luck with that stuff sticking to anything long-term, but I scuffed up both sides pretty well and acetoned it. We'll see...
I also got the vertical nose-gear former in and hysoled on both sides. It's curing with some plastic to keep the removable part from sticking. I'll start on the removable nose cone later today.