DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

I have an SLA and filament 3D printer, have a good command of a CAD program, been designing lots of things, but want to be able cut ply, G10 and carbon. Like to keep it under $2500. 2' square table would be about right. Anyone have one they like?

Propworn

My Feedback: (3)

Under $2500 you might have to build a kit to get the repeatability and accuracy your looking for. Best to check on some of the cnc forums.

Dennis

ChuckC

My Feedback: (24)

What's your familiarity with these animals?

If you are inclined you certainly can save some money and build it yourself and get a lot bigger X-Y table. There are varying levels of complexity, ranging from "kits" to buying all the pieces separately. However if you're not inclined to to the hobby-building thing, you can still get some off-the-shelf ones for less than $2500 (CNC-Shark, etc.).

I renovated an old Isel; 2.5D, meaning it's a 2D router with some Z movement. I am using a Hobby CNC board (they're still around, BTW), but given the funds would certainly have gone with Gecko controllers and when I burn the controller out, I'll just switch. But, that's the only regret I have in my build so far.

When shopping, the biggest deal is checking out the software chain it uses and is compatible with. Mine goes: AutoDesk Inventor; AutoDesk CAM; Mach 3. I'm a neophyte with Inventor, however. Mach 3 seems to be pretty dang easy for everything it does and the price. A lot of the of-the-shelf, complete CNC routers use proprietary software. Using Mach 3 to control it (or similar general-controller software), opens up the types of files and custom drawings you can do. Some of the custom controller software might import vector files. This is what I'd look for.

A good place to start on kits is:

https://www.buildyourcnc.com/

TONS of very good tutorials.

Forum: www.CNCZone.com

What drawing software are you using?

SECRET AGENT

My Feedback: (18)

I remember way way way back in the day, Sean Reitmeier made a DIY router. He was making retracts or retract plates I believe. I think he even did a thead about it, but then again I'm getting old and forgetful.

ChuckC

My Feedback: (24)

Yeah - thanks for that "...I remember way, way, waaaayyy back in the good old days..." - sigh. Just reminds me of what I HAVEN'T done in the hobby since. And how old I am! :-) Oh well -

You see, I picked up a used set of those retracts (actually well made, BTW) and remember that thread.

CNC has changed a LOT since then. Lot of Chinese manufacturers now; almost all the stepper motors, etc. are Chinese. Not too bad (affordable), just have to be careful what you buy, especially the electronics.

SECRET AGENT

My Feedback: (18)

We're not old Chuck, we are well seasoned. That's why we smell funny, HA!

mr_matt

My Feedback: (10)

Shapeoko. Carvey (instructables). These are kits.

Also, unless there is a reason to only use 2, you will probably end up with a 3 axis.

Also, take time to select the actual spindle. you need a quality spindle motor that can take continuous duty

ChuckC

My Feedback: (24)

What Matt said- I'm using an air cooled spindle, which is pretty much the equivalent of a trim router. It's ok, but a triple bearing water cooled spindle is the standard...

good of luck. It's another hobby of its own.

Chris Nicastro

My Feedback: (3)

Hey Mike I know a local guy that makes CNC routers here in Coeur d'Alene. His name is Joe and I can put you in touch with him if your interested. At least support would be close and in English! His is pretty nice because you can use any tool on the head that you want from a laser to a router to a 3D printer nozzle. I've seen one in person and it's pretty straight forward and easy to use.
Let me know and I'll get his info for you.

olnico

2 axis = laser head. Avoid cutting composite plates with these unless you don't mind the burning smell and burned cutting lines ( as well as small risk of fire, but that can be managed ).

If you want a milling head, you need a 3 axis router.

Openbuilds have all kinds of kits available on their forum...

josex

Checkout stepcraft.

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

Thanks guys, I do not want to mill metal. Just cut plates. It has to work with fusion 360. I'm not opposed to building a kit. Im I going to end up with a PC attached to it? Both of my 3D printers will take the download and I can pull the computer. Just trying to keep the footprint smaller.

Chris, I would be interested in talking to your friend.

LN-JET

We bought a Stepcraft 840 at work. Not a good experience so far. We have not been able to adjust the long axis, so that it doesn't bind at some point. Tiny Nema 17 motors, driving via thin belts, make it clear that it comes from a "maker" and 3d-printer environment. For the price, the could also have put ball screws on it.

Lars

ChuckC

My Feedback: (24)

If you do a kit, you'll definitely have a PC attached to it, be running Mach 3 (or similar) and need some type of CAM software to compliment Fusion 360 - I think, unless Fusion builds CAM in like Inventor does. Off the shelf there are some routers also provided and supported by Rockler and Woodcraft but are pretty pricey for what you get. The upside is that they are fully supported and fairly guaranteed to work for you.

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

Fusion does have the CAM stuff... have not played with it though. Nice thing about 3D printing, no tool path or moving work piece around, just figure out where supports are least annoying and press play. :-) But ABS is about the strongest thing I can use, there is carbon infused ABS, but haven't seen the numbers on how much stronger it is.

ianober

My Feedback: (12)

For 2 axis you are looking at laser's. 3-axis would be minimum for CNC. I built mine from Joes plans and kit. Very happy with it. I am actually in the middle of gathering parts to upgrade it to the EVO series which is all aluminum.

This is my machine as it stands:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lkQiNvztxZo

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

Naive question. Everyone is saying three-axis, why the Y-axis if I'm only cutting all the way through the material? Seems like the y-axis would be fixed? A kit might be fun, but I would like to stay away from wood or plastic.

wojtek

My Feedback: (73)

google up cnc6040 .. i have used mine with great results and it is cheap ( Chines of course ... ) ... if i was to do it over again however for a 3D set up , i would go with a kit from https://www.cncrouterparts.com .


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tYSU-OupHuA

there are things you can do with a laser (2 1/2 D ) however that you cant with a router ..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i-YFPVEg8nQ

mr_matt

My Feedback: (10)

I would say stepcraft if you want plug and play. You have the 3rd axis to lift and lower the bit. Is everything you cut one long continuous cut? No holes?

LN-JET

The vertical axis is usually the Z-axis.
You want it to at least lift when it moves from part to part, or have multiple cut levels.
That type of work is often referred to as 2.5D

Lars

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

This looks good. And they advertise fusion 360 CAM with it.... I have that program, just haven't used it. Very comfortable with designing 3D with Fusion 360.

http://www.cncrouterparts.com/bencht...kit-p-369.html

Duh on the y-axis for cutting holes... LOL

thanks guys, great info....

ianober

My Feedback: (12)

Fusion 360 is free and works on just about every machine out there. CNCRouterParts makes good stuff for the hobbyist and pro. I have many parts on my machine from them.

Chris Nicastro

My Feedback: (3)

Here you go guys...
Joe Heath is his name
www.shopmastercnc.com
He makes the kits to suit your needs right here in Post Falls, ID.

DrScoles

My Feedback: (18)

I really like the 18x24 he has Chris, sent him an email. Like the idea of supporting a small biz as well. So many of these things out there!

Chris Nicastro

My Feedback: (3)

Cool!
Buy local! Buy Made in the USA!
I emailed him as well to let him know you would be contacting him. I'll see him next week actually. Let me know if you need anything.