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Fly Eagle Jets Hawk 2.66m Build

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Fly Eagle Jets Hawk 2.66m Build

Old 04-08-2017, 02:33 PM
  #51  
JoeJr1485
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Here is some pictures of the airline and servo wires run to the rear section. The white sleeve is fire/heat proof that is used on cars. its good stuff. It also keeps everything organized and nice.

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Old 04-08-2017, 02:39 PM
  #52  
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Here are the pieces that FEJ is sending me. Its the rear bulkhead and front nose former.

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Old 04-08-2017, 03:25 PM
  #53  
TimD.
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Originally Posted by JoeJr1485
The white sleeve is fire/heat proof that is used on cars. its good stuff. It also keeps everything organized and nice.


Where are you getting that sleeve from ? I like that concept.
Old 04-08-2017, 06:29 PM
  #54  
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Originally Posted by TimD.
Where are you getting that sleeve from ? I like that concept.
Here you go TimD this is the website that I got it from. https://www.wirecare.com/category/br...me-temperature
Old 04-09-2017, 05:18 AM
  #55  
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Great link, lots of good stuff in there, thanks.
Old 04-09-2017, 12:11 PM
  #56  
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Hello,

May I ask what the delivered cost of the ARF was?

Good luck with your project.
Old 04-09-2017, 12:46 PM
  #57  
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Originally Posted by Shaun Evans
Hello,

May I ask what the delivered cost of the ARF was?

Good luck with your project.
Hey Shaun, delivered cost was only a few hundred. I'm not sure why skymaster rased their shipping cost. Even FB jets is around 500 for shipping on there big f15.
Old 04-09-2017, 12:50 PM
  #58  
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Keith FEJ got back me on the rear bulkhead. They made the holes a little smaller as you were talking about. Here is a picture of it that is being sent. What it's worth it seems they are listening James at FEJ is been a big help and has addressed everything that we have talked about.
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Old 04-09-2017, 01:30 PM
  #59  
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Originally Posted by JoeJr1485
Hey Shaun, delivered cost was only a few hundred. I'm not sure why skymaster rased their shipping cost. Even FB jets is around 500 for shipping on there big f15.
Hi,

No, I meant the total cost with delivery. Sorry I wasn't clear.

Thanks
Old 04-09-2017, 01:51 PM
  #60  
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Originally Posted by JoeJr1485
Keith FEJ got back me on the rear bulkhead. They made the holes a little smaller as you were talking about. Here is a picture of it that is being sent. What it's worth it seems they are listening James at FEJ is been a big help and has addressed everything that we have talked about.
I'm glad it's working out for you, I know James well and he was never the problem until he stopped talking to folks, he's just a salesman and tech support the factory is/was the problem. Good luck with the build, I personally want do business with them because no matter what changes the fact remains they never apologize for the past doings and as far as I can tell there is no proof of actual testing of their models. Too many unknowns, I picked them in the beginning because it's what I could afford at the time. The picture shows the correct stuff but it should be aircraft ply since it's a major bulkhead, I would use it as a template and cut one out of nice hobby ply.
Old 04-09-2017, 01:51 PM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by Shaun Evans
Hi,

No, I meant the total cost with delivery. Sorry I wasn't clear.

Thanks

Lol sorry around 3k
Old 04-09-2017, 01:53 PM
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Originally Posted by FenderBean
I'm glad it's working out for you, I know James well and he was never the problem until he stopped talking to folks, he's just a salesman and tech support the factory is/was the problem. Good luck with the build, I personally want do business with them because no matter what changes the fact remains they never apologize for the past doings and as far as I can tell there is no proof of actual testing of their models. Too many unknowns, I picked them in the beginning because it's what I could afford at the time. The picture shows the correct stuff but it should be aircraft ply since it's a major bulkhead, I would use it as a template and cut one out of nice hobby ply.
Understand. Thank you Keith
Old 04-09-2017, 10:16 PM
  #63  
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Well I got just a little more work done today. It wasn't much but I have the front halve of the servo connection done. With me moving every few years I wanted to make sure that it was easy to brake the fuse down to box it up. I used a 24 pin connection that is used on power supplies in computers. It's simple. Once I get the lines labeled, cut to the correct length, the wire will be placed in wire loom.

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Old 04-10-2017, 05:59 AM
  #64  
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Joe, are the retracts in? Would love to see a side picture where the guide pin slides. Previously they were using soft aluminum on the retract mount body, and the steel pin would be such a lose fit it would end up biting on the inboard side of the guiding rail and losing positive lock capability. See attached.

David

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Old 04-10-2017, 06:03 AM
  #65  
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Originally Posted by JoeJr1485
Keith FEJ got back me on the rear bulkhead. They made the holes a little smaller as you were talking about. Here is a picture of it that is being sent. What it's worth it seems they are listening James at FEJ is been a big help and has addressed everything that we have talked about.
They need to get rid of all those lightening holes. They do more harm than good. This is a load bearing former. David
Old 04-10-2017, 08:57 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by FalconWings
Joe, are the retracts in? Would love to see a side picture where the guide pin slides. Previously they were using soft aluminum on the retract mount body, and the steel pin would be such a lose fit it would end up biting on the inboard side of the guiding rail and losing positive lock capability. See attached.

David


Hey FalconWings, Great information. Lets take a look at that. I will take pictures and video of it and post soon.
Old 04-10-2017, 09:00 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by FalconWings
They need to get rid of all those lightening holes. They do more harm than good. This is a load bearing former. David
FalconWings, your saying that it should be a solid piece with just the thrust tube hole correct?

Thanks

Joe
Old 04-10-2017, 10:33 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by JoeJr1485
FalconWings, your saying that it should be a solid piece with just the thrust tube hole correct?

Thanks

Joe
Exactly. I would never weaken primary structure like that just to save 1oz worth of wood that is already soft to begin with. The red circle in the pic above show minimum material left after the lightening groove was cut. I can show you a way of reinforcing using linkages and ball-rod clevises.

David
Old 04-10-2017, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by FalconWings
Exactly. I would never weaken primary structure like that just to save 1oz worth of wood that is already soft to begin with. The red circle in the pic above show minimum material left after the lightening groove was cut. I can show you a way of reinforcing using linkages and ball-rod clevises.

David

Okay cool. I would like to see what you are talking about. Thanks for the information.
Old 04-10-2017, 07:18 PM
  #70  
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David, here is the pictures of one of the mains. Since this is my first FEJ does the picture show what you are looking for? When I move the strut it's operation is pretty smooth and tight.

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Old 04-10-2017, 08:44 PM
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So just a little more work not much haha. I got the servo cable connection done for the front side of the fuse. The length of the black loom is long enough to reach the front tray we're my cb400 is going to be. Then I have enough wire let to get the correct length needed to keep it nice looking.

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Old 04-11-2017, 03:21 AM
  #72  
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Originally Posted by JoeJr1485
David, here is the pictures of one of the mains. Since this is my first FEJ does the picture show what you are looking for? When I move the strut it's operation is pretty smooth and tight.

Oh yeah, looks a lot better now. Sliding pin extends throughout the "slide" completely. You should be fine. Thanks for sharing!

David
Old 04-11-2017, 03:27 AM
  #73  
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that surface finish though......are they casting everything? or sand blasting?
Old 04-11-2017, 06:31 AM
  #74  
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On the retracts I would shave the up lock notch some with a dremel so you wont have to worry about it sticking up. Every time I get a plane with retracts that have that sharp edge for up locks I shave the corner off to make the gear come down better.

Reading this thread I was hoping they had their act together to put pressure on other manufactures to bring the price down. Looks like its the same old stuff. Problem is that's just what we can see. What is hiding inside the wings and tail on the spars and anti rotation pins?
Old 04-11-2017, 07:49 AM
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Originally Posted by gunradd
On the retracts I would shave the up lock notch some with a dremel so you wont have to worry about it sticking up. Every time I get a plane with retracts that have that sharp edge for up locks I shave the corner off to make the gear come down better.

Reading this thread I was hoping they had their act together to put pressure on other manufactures to bring the price down. Looks like its the same old stuff. Problem is that's just what we can see. What is hiding inside the wings and tail on the spars and anti rotation pins?
I would do it only on the "up" corner, so the come down easily. The fit of the pin on the guide is so loose already, that if you trim the "down" corner it may not lock at all, which is what mine does. On any other brand it should not be a problem.

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