Getting epoxy in a hairline crack
#1
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Getting epoxy in a hairline crack
As the title states. Does anyone have a good way to get epoxy into a hairline crack? I have a vertical stab that I need to do. My first thought is to heat it so it's very thin, but was wondering if anyone had a better way, or a sure way to make sure it's deep enough for good coverage.
Thanks for any help.
Thanks for any help.
#3
Ca would be better for a hair line crack I would think, but using something like a game card or thin credit card and go back and forth over the crack would force the glue in. Then clean the area of excess being careful to not get anything in the crack.
#5
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I would heat the epoxy slightly and work it in back forth with a squeege as suggested. Use at least 30 minute epoxy to give you enough working time...
Bob
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Thanks for the suggestions. I should have mentioned it has a foam core, so CA isn't really an option. I can flex it enough to open it about 1/16" at its widest and it tapers down to little or no opening on each end. Looks like there may be several ways to do it, just need to work it in.
Thanks again for all your help!
Thanks again for all your help!
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I actually thought about that, but how difficult is it to get it in the syringe, and what kind of syringe would you recommend? Just wondering if I can draw epoxy into the syringe.
Last edited by Eaglepilot2; 06-25-2017 at 05:17 PM.
#11
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If you thin 5 minute epoxy like that, you will find that it does not cure hard because the solvent doesn't get out before it cures. The same thing happens with a longer curing epoxy if thinned in an application where it is not well exposed to the air for the solvent to evaporate.
Also, I'm not sure that finishing resin is the best adhesive for a structural repair... YMMV
Bob
Last edited by rhklenke; 06-25-2017 at 07:09 PM.
#12
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To get the epoxy in the syringe, just leave the needle off and pull it into the syringe then put the needle on it an push the air out. Try and get syringes that do not have the hub lock, they come both ways.
#17
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What is the structural component of this vertical fin?
If the structure is the foam then you can just get some epoxy in there and it will be strong as new. If it is foam with a fiberglass covering then just butt gluing it back together is not going to be strong enough.
You can heat most epoxies to make then thinner, heat will also dramatically reduce pot life so be ready, your 30 minute epoxy once warmed up may only give you 5 minutes.
If the structure is the foam then you can just get some epoxy in there and it will be strong as new. If it is foam with a fiberglass covering then just butt gluing it back together is not going to be strong enough.
You can heat most epoxies to make then thinner, heat will also dramatically reduce pot life so be ready, your 30 minute epoxy once warmed up may only give you 5 minutes.
#19
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If you are conna reinforce it with cloth and repaint why are you worried about the CA getting everywhere? just CA it, reglass it and be done with it. Could be lettin' the paint dry by now......
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I suppose you're right, but I guess I'd feel better knowing the foam was bonded also. I suppose I'm more paranoid than most people.
#21
I would use Hysol.. mix it with 20 percent more hardner.. then dilute with dn alcohol.. use a rubber glove so you won't get skin oil on it and work it in.. then wipe clean with alcohol
place a fan on it, no heat.. come back tomorrow.. it will be hard and solid.. BTDT
place a fan on it, no heat.. come back tomorrow.. it will be hard and solid.. BTDT
#24
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You can also mix your epoxy,then add acetone to desired texture,(almost water thin) then apply with a fine haired brush. Then wipe of with lightly with a soft cloth.