CARF Mephisto Build thread
10-23-2018, 09:26 PM
#276
Thread Starter
Gains depend on servo type, but the Mercury should be set using the test flight assistant then you will get the optimum %
Do you have a GPS II fitted?
Vector gain can ( and should) be run 100% no problem at all, even flying around fast. In normal flying mode (1) gyros off. FM2 vector off and gains as Assistant, but I would guess 35-40% on aileron and 25-30% on elevator ( elevator is the dominant control so it’s going to be less ) rudder does not need to be high as the rudder is super powerful. FM3 same flight control gain with 100% on vector. Heading hold only on ailerons if you want to run some, soon as you move the stick it comes off anyway.
iIf you want to hover and have tailerons a separate iGyro 3e on. Vector set x4 will give you hands off hovering. Birdy has a Mercury in his, he will probably chip in with his figures based on JR servos
Do you have a GPS II fitted?
Vector gain can ( and should) be run 100% no problem at all, even flying around fast. In normal flying mode (1) gyros off. FM2 vector off and gains as Assistant, but I would guess 35-40% on aileron and 25-30% on elevator ( elevator is the dominant control so it’s going to be less ) rudder does not need to be high as the rudder is super powerful. FM3 same flight control gain with 100% on vector. Heading hold only on ailerons if you want to run some, soon as you move the stick it comes off anyway.
iIf you want to hover and have tailerons a separate iGyro 3e on. Vector set x4 will give you hands off hovering. Birdy has a Mercury in his, he will probably chip in with his figures based on JR servos
11-13-2018, 03:36 PM
#279
Join Date: May 2018
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Hi Guys, Here are some picture of the Mephisto I got - Cayman Scheme Neon Green.
It's unbelievable how beautiful and HUGE this thing is... Simply amazing. I saw it in Best in The West, but it looked much smaller from far away
I tried to upload some photos, but I still don't have 10 posts on rcu.. so here it is in a google album: photos.app.goo.gl/PJo9VWsZJTNS4skW8
It's unbelievable how beautiful and HUGE this thing is... Simply amazing. I saw it in Best in The West, but it looked much smaller from far away
I tried to upload some photos, but I still don't have 10 posts on rcu.. so here it is in a google album: photos.app.goo.gl/PJo9VWsZJTNS4skW8
11-27-2018, 08:21 PM
#280
Guys, quick question about the tank fittings:
I got 3 brass pipes for each tank and in the robber there are 3 holes (other than the one in the center), one of the three is blocked at the exist.
- I assume that I'm going to use only two and just ignore the 3rd one. Right? (Vent bented upwards and one for clunk all the way back)
- also, anyone filled that enterence of the 3rd hole all the way through, or is the existing blockage at the exist of the hole enough?
I got 3 brass pipes for each tank and in the robber there are 3 holes (other than the one in the center), one of the three is blocked at the exist.
- I assume that I'm going to use only two and just ignore the 3rd one. Right? (Vent bented upwards and one for clunk all the way back)
- also, anyone filled that enterence of the 3rd hole all the way through, or is the existing blockage at the exist of the hole enough?
11-27-2018, 10:01 PM
#281
Thread Starter
The third pipe is for the clunk line to bridge the baffle, the fibre glass baffle plate would cut through the Tygon quickly.
The dubro bung blank hole is enough, there should be no pressure in the tank and even when people fill the tanks with a stopper left in, the tank fails way before that tiny blank hole would.
So straight pipe for the clunk line and curved pipe with a Tygon extension to the top of the tank for the vent.
The dubro bung blank hole is enough, there should be no pressure in the tank and even when people fill the tanks with a stopper left in, the tank fails way before that tiny blank hole would.
So straight pipe for the clunk line and curved pipe with a Tygon extension to the top of the tank for the vent.
11-28-2018, 10:14 PM
#283
Thread Starter
Yes, kinda! I shorten the pipes down where I can. What turbine size? You have large bore Tygon and the std 5/32 brass tube. I would use 5/32 bore Tygon with those tubes, that looks like 3/16? The open ends of the pipe asks for a leak, I’d lock wire near the end of the tube too. Also the way you have bent the vent, how are you going to get it through the small tank fitting?
11-28-2018, 10:25 PM
#284
Join Date: May 2018
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Yes, kinda! I shorten the pipes down where I can. What turbine size? You have large bore Tygon and the std 5/32 brass tube. I would use 5/32 bore Tygon with those tubes, that looks like 3/16? The open ends of the pipe asks for a leak, I’d lock wire near the end of the tube too. Also the way you have bent the vent, how are you going to get it through the small tank fitting?
Getting the bended vent into the small fitting wasn't such a problem. I pulled the straight brass pipe towards the outside, twisted the vent towards it and the tygon bends at the same rate. when it's in, I just push the main line back and twist the vent back to its position.
11-28-2018, 11:18 PM
#285
Thread Starter
Ok, will you use a twin feed bubble trap? ( each tank feed has its own fitting on the bubble trap )
Assembly, that is fine, it’s important to make sure the pipes are smooth and ‘nick’ free, when you slide it
back and forth through the bung you can shave rubber off and you will get a leak around the tank tube. If you
pressure check the finished tank you will know where you are on that, I flex the pipes a little while doing the test
to ensure the seal is perfect- the mass of the pipes in flight will flex the tank pipes a little.
Dave
Assembly, that is fine, it’s important to make sure the pipes are smooth and ‘nick’ free, when you slide it
back and forth through the bung you can shave rubber off and you will get a leak around the tank tube. If you
pressure check the finished tank you will know where you are on that, I flex the pipes a little while doing the test
to ensure the seal is perfect- the mass of the pipes in flight will flex the tank pipes a little.
Dave
11-28-2018, 11:44 PM
#286
Yes. I have the FCT UAT 350ml dual inlets:
i've pressurised the system a bit to make sure there are no leaks and before I placed the brass tubes I oiled the bore a bit and double checked that there are no sharp edges.
edges.
Did you use different fittings or the same ones from the kit?
i've pressurised the system a bit to make sure there are no leaks and before I placed the brass tubes I oiled the bore a bit and double checked that there are no sharp edges.
edges.
Did you use different fittings or the same ones from the kit?
11-29-2018, 01:00 AM
#287
Thread Starter
On my JetCat P-220 Rxi is used the stock fittings, I only changed to one of our high flow felt clunks.
Some of the guys we have done JetCat P-300 Pro installs for we increase the brass tube size (drill out the caps) I have used KS 4.5mm and 5mm tube.
The differences we see in the pump voltage are tiny, the fuel line runs on the Mephisto are all short, so the gain is not as much as we have seen on some
airframes I have done this on. I don't think you will see any problems with the pump voltages with your set up (5/32 Tygon and 6mm clear outside tank)
Dave
Some of the guys we have done JetCat P-300 Pro installs for we increase the brass tube size (drill out the caps) I have used KS 4.5mm and 5mm tube.
The differences we see in the pump voltage are tiny, the fuel line runs on the Mephisto are all short, so the gain is not as much as we have seen on some
airframes I have done this on. I don't think you will see any problems with the pump voltages with your set up (5/32 Tygon and 6mm clear outside tank)
Dave
11-29-2018, 12:45 PM
#288
Get rid of that filter at the clunk, they are too restrictive for the fuel flow, spectially if you are running a large 320, i removed mine and my 260 has been running better since then much more fuel flow and the 260 and larger engines apreciate that.
just run the clunk.
just run the clunk.
11-29-2018, 12:57 PM
#289
You might consider replacing that brass tube in the clunk pick-up line where it passes through the baffle with a stainless steel tube.
I had the exact same set-up as you in my Ultra Flash and after a while I started to get air build-up in the air trap. Took a long time to troubleshoot, but I noticed that it would only start to collect air once that final tank started to run down. It turned out that the brass tube had developed a number of hair-line cracks running lengthwise, which would draw in air once the brass tube became uncovered as the tank ran down.
Paul
I had the exact same set-up as you in my Ultra Flash and after a while I started to get air build-up in the air trap. Took a long time to troubleshoot, but I noticed that it would only start to collect air once that final tank started to run down. It turned out that the brass tube had developed a number of hair-line cracks running lengthwise, which would draw in air once the brass tube became uncovered as the tank ran down.
Paul
11-29-2018, 06:25 PM
#290
To felt, or not to felt? That is the question
@skymaster68, Just to double check: you had both your tanks connected to the UAT in parallel and still the felt was restricting the flow? Then, you took it out and the flow was much better?
I'm asking just cause the manual says:
11-29-2018, 10:29 PM
#291
Thread Starter
We use felt on everything up to 300N turbines, it’s never been a problem-but fuel choice does seem to make a difference, obviously they can get clogged by fine dirt or over a time with algae. We land with almost no air in the bubble trap, the long tanks and a normal weighted clunk tend to show more air, these big engines by nature of the high fuel flow can have an equally high air passage if the clunk is out of the fuel.
11-30-2018, 03:03 AM
#292
Yes, I removed both felts last weekend, I found out that they were restricting the fuel flow way too much and Yes I have the tanks in parallel to the High Flow Intairco UAT, a much happy engine now.
11-30-2018, 03:41 AM
#293
What was the major difference you saw in your engine's performance?
11-30-2018, 04:00 AM
#295
11-30-2018, 04:09 AM
#296
I too have the felts and use the high flow inteirco UAT for my K260. The K260 feels sluggish but I have been told that the K260 is sluggish compared to the K210 or the other newer Kingtech's. The newer turbines spool up a lot faster as such it would make since to have as much flow as possible.
What was the major difference you saw in your engine's performance?
What was the major difference you saw in your engine's performance?
Well it felt better.. give it a try
11-30-2018, 08:37 AM
#297
I used high flow felt clunks on my 300 and all seems fine - pump voltages are good so far. When I used the CARF supplied ones in the past I drilled them out to get a higher flow rate.
12-01-2018, 02:25 AM
#298
12-01-2018, 11:51 PM
#299
Hi friends, you can find another option for the tanks here:
https://cmjets.com/c-arf/174-mephisto.html
Full personalize tanks, hight Flow fittings and felt filter for main and metal clunk for smoke.
Best regards from Spain.
Carlos
CMJETS.com
https://cmjets.com/c-arf/174-mephisto.html
Full personalize tanks, hight Flow fittings and felt filter for main and metal clunk for smoke.
Best regards from Spain.
Carlos
CMJETS.com
12-02-2018, 07:19 AM
#300
I have a set on order!! Can’t wait to have them here soon!!
Hi friends, you can find another option for the tanks here:
https://cmjets.com/c-arf/174-mephisto.html
Full personalize tanks, hight Flow fittings and felt filter for main and metal clunk for smoke.
Best regards from Spain.
Carlos
CMJETS.com
https://cmjets.com/c-arf/174-mephisto.html
Full personalize tanks, hight Flow fittings and felt filter for main and metal clunk for smoke.
Best regards from Spain.
Carlos
CMJETS.com