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1/6 F-105 Build Thread

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Old 09-22-2019, 06:25 AM
  #476  
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HInge install


After playing around with the hinges I did not trust the set screw to hold the hinge pins in so I drilled them out for a 2-56 screw


Other half drilled


2-56 screws in hinges


Hinges tacked in with Digipoxy MMA and held in place by hand for the 3 min set time, then tape in for 10 min cure


I use medium CA to reinforce the MMA. I will cover all glue joints with hysol after everything is working


Material removed to give hinge bolt head clearance


2-56 screws were cut to proper length


Door location dry fit


Door hinge relief cuts marked


Door hinge cut out done
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Old 09-22-2019, 10:27 AM
  #477  
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Mounting door to hinges


Door taped in place for dry fit


Door in open position contacts wing skin and binds when swinging open if clamped to hinges. Couldn't figure out how to make it work right.


I marked hinge positions on back side of door with a short pencil


Door hinge position marked


Material removed down to outer skin to allow the door to sit flush with wing skin


Dry fit in closed position


Dry fit in open position had to have a gap to clear the curve. Here I spent about 4 hours trying to figure out how to make it work without a gap


I finally figured because of the curve of the wing surface I would have to trim the edge off the door and fill in the wing side to make it work. I couldn't just move the door away from he wing because then it would not fit the outer door on the strut.


So...I marked and cut off the edge of the door


Now the hinges were happy and worked but I have fill the gap. Another one I did not see coming.
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Old 09-22-2019, 10:49 AM
  #478  
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Doors attached to hinges and door horns



RIght side open after tack gluing to hinges with medium CA


RIght side closed, flush with wing skin, and aligned with the lines for the main strut door


Same for the left side


Ditto on left side...


Both doors posing for photos. Getting the first one on the right took about 5 hours and 45 min on the left side, but it's done.


I found some old phenolic horns in the parts box left over from a Kangaroo kit I built about 20 years ago. I cut them off and they worked perfect for the gear door horns


Center lines marked


Slots cut


Horns glued in with medium CA. Holes are about 25mm from hinge line approximately equal to holes in servo arms

Last edited by Viper1GJ; 09-22-2019 at 10:52 AM.
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Old 09-22-2019, 11:35 AM
  #479  
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Installing inner gear door servos and linkage



I needed about 12mm clearance from the servo arm to plywood wing spar for the 4-40 ball link. This translated to about 60 mm from the spar at the bottom of the servo.


Servo mount dry fit. The servo needed to be as low as possible to clear the wheel. I decided to make a clamp style mount so I could access all screws from the wheel well. 3/8 x 3/8" poplar was used for the servo mounts.


Clearance check with wheel in retracted positon


Clear of wheel


Wood mounts clamped to servo and servo in position on line


Mounts tack glued in with thin CA.


Servo removed for saturation gluing with thin CA


Tops of wood mounts saturated with thin CA to harden the wood for the servo screw threads. I go around all the joints with hysol after everything is installed and working.


Plywood clamp screwed into positon. Now servo is easily removed through the wheel well opening


4-40 ball links and threaded rods attached and adjusted for proper movement.


I was able to use the two 50mm 4-40 threaded rods I had cut for the nose gear doors but could not use. Rather be lucky than good any day!

Last edited by Viper1GJ; 09-22-2019 at 11:38 AM.
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Old 09-23-2019, 05:00 PM
  #480  
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This thread is so awesome!

Were did you get that digipoxy again? From Sandor? Air panda?

How does it compare to Hysol in your opinion?
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Old 09-23-2019, 05:29 PM
  #481  
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Originally Posted by ravill View Post
This thread is so awesome!

Were did you get that digipoxy again? From Sandor? Air panda?

How does it compare to Hysol in your opinion?

Rav, I got it from Danny at Aeropanda.com.

Digipoxy 5Min MMA is very different than Hysol. It mixes very easy and is very sticky almost stringing when you pull the mixing stick away. So it sticks to the surface you apply it to very well and easy to spread. But is harder to get a smooth surface. It does not self level like Hysol. I guess because it sets up in about 3-4 min. It is firm in about 10 min and cured in 30 min. It has a smell also. So you have to have the parts ready since there is very little working time. I like to use it for things that can be done fast and easy or to tack parts on that may not have a good mating surface and glue later with CA or Hysol. It worked great on the hinges since they were off a little in contacting the gluing surface and there was a gap to fill. The MMA filled the small gaps and cured with the hinges in the correct spot.

Hysol has a much longer working time and it is easier to get a smooth surface on the glue since it somewhat self levels. Also it is much easier to get Hysol off areas that you don't want it on. I use lots of Qtips to clean up the hysol joints if necessary. That is really not possible with the MMA

Anybody else have experience with it feel free to chime in. I don't know much about the tech specs but it sure is handy.

Gary

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Old 09-23-2019, 06:02 PM
  #482  
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Main landing gear middle and outer doors


The gear doors before cutting middle door from outside door


Doors cut apart on scroll saw. Used a couple of blades cutting through the glass and carbon fiber layers


Right side done


Left side done


Looking and pondering how to do the doors. Looks like they may actually fit flush with some of the foam backing removed in the right places


If material removed on back of door it should fit flush here also


Ditto


Trying to figure a way to attach door so it is removeable and not drilling into the strut. Thinking about making two sheet metal brackets that would clamp the door to the strut with bolts and nuts. The brackets have to leave room for the chute RPM sensor and magnets also.


The door has to rotate with the lower strut when it is retracted and extended. It also has to be mounted on the strut so it is flush with the surface when retracted. So I will have to figure out hot to set the proper gap which is not the same on either edge or end. Not sure how now, but thinking waxing the strut and then making a bed of epoxy putty and pressing the door on to the strut till it is flush and let it cure. Then remove the door from the strut and clean up the squeeze out to make a custom door mount for each side. Any ideas or suggestions appreciated.


What is clear is that each door will have to be custom fit. No fast way to do it.

This will wrap up work this week. Spent most of the day packing the camper to go to Super Jets South in Georgia. Leaving tomorrow and back next week hopefully.
Gary
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Old 09-23-2019, 06:18 PM
  #483  
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On those brackets that you will be making, you could make/add an attachment that would hold the air and electric wires going down to the wheel.
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Old 09-23-2019, 07:17 PM
  #484  
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Gary,

Why not get some gear door mounts 3D printed so that they clamp around the gear and hold it correctly?


Paul
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Old 09-25-2019, 06:04 PM
  #485  
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Hi Paul,
I spoke to Dave to day at SJS in Georgia about just that. I think I will make a wood mock up and some measurements and send it to him and he will be able to make some 3D printed brackets.

Love your thread and progress in the Bucc.

Thanks,
Gary
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Old 09-26-2019, 05:51 PM
  #486  
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Congratulations to Bob Rullie for a successful flight on his F-105!

Shortly after I arrived at SJS 2019 in Georgia I got an email from Bob Rullie who I mentioned in post #1 and #2. Bob took 4 years to build his plane and flew a successful flight on his F-105 in 2017 but it was quite tail heavy. After a two year delay and some turbine issues he got in a good flight last week in NY. I corresponded with him by email and he said it flew well and he was planning on flying again but he found a small crack in fuse where the air intake connects to the fuse and wanted to investigate before flying again.

Here is a video link of his flight:


Congrats Bob!
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Old 09-30-2019, 05:57 PM
  #487  
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I want to test the main landing gear retract power on air to see if the two cylinders on each gear can lift the long struts and big wheels.

Can you guys advise me on the best high flow retract valves to use so I don't get stuck with not enough air to move the struts up. Electric or mechanical?

Should I plan one valve for each gear?

I have not ever tried to move gear this big and heavy gear on air before so I'm looking for advice before I buy a bunch of useless hardware. I am also thinking about hydraulics if air will not hack it.

Thanks,
Gary

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Old 09-30-2019, 08:00 PM
  #488  
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Gary, I have had great success using this one from Jet Model Product on jets with large, heavy gear. Each gear has its own dedicated set of up/down nipples direct from valve, so no T’s are used. JS

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